It is not any special light bulb. There should be numbers and letters on the
bulb to confirm this. I wouldn't use a compact fluorscent unless you are in a
pretty moderate climate. Bulbs rated for rough service, as in trouble lights
or traffic signals last longer if the door is used a lot
You have gotten some good answers to your questions. Let me clear up a couple
of points. You have apparently bought a three way switch. Is one of those
screws on a tab off the side of the mounting strap? If not, then good. If
yes you may have a single pole switch with a ground.First
Well folks the trim work was going well until the old DeWalt miter saw
somehow got something inside it. Only opening was on the bottom of the saw
motor. Well still haven't gotten the gear pulled off to get inside the saw
motor. So went to Home Depot and purchased a sliding compound miter
I haven't read any other replys yet. So this is my opinion. The daylight
that is being seen may be from a vent, but water coming in through or around a
vent is not normal. The only reason for a pan inthe attic is to catch water
from a leak that needs to be fixed. Letting a roof leak go
I would guess that date is date of manufacture. Never heard of changing
ceiling tile unless there was a good reason. Many buildings at the university
I worked at had the same tile as when it was built 30 years plus ago. Ask him
for a photo copy of the code showing chapter and verse and if
Well folks the final inspection by the city was done today. Inside floor
covering and trim work. Outside gutters remain to be done. Need to level
the back steps and arrange the paving stones to suit the misses and we can
move in. Actually the outside stuff will not hinder moving in. Been a
As Dale said, removing the back is a waste of time. I would start with the
top. It should snap free from the front and hinge towards the back. Hopefully
you can rotate the drum by hand untill you can reach the pin. If you are
unable to do this then removing the front and pulling the drum
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem
Now just how does the top unsnap in the front.
Thanks Bob
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem
As Dale said
Well Monday I finished up the large pieces of vinyl siding on the room. I
finally figured it worked best to measure with a tape lay it on the siding
and plunge my pocketknife through the siding to make a mark and a stop
against which I could slide the ninety degree cutting jig against. Yes
The screws I bought to build my steps with out of treated lumber had a star or
Torex bit in the box.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Lee A. Stone
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 11:29 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] the name of the screws with the tool in the box
Yes. Luckly they use the same socket.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net
To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 2:10 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] convert fluorescent t12 to t8 bulbs
One of my fluorescent lights in
Well this week has been a heavy one. I finished the miter corners of the
soffet. Then Monday, Tuesday, Thursday evenings and Friday afternoon my son
in law helped hang sheetrock. We used up the entire stack of 32 sheets.
Trouble is I am short. Looks like I estimated for the addition but not
Well folks the insulation got installed last week. Hard to believe I could
hire someone for about $20 more than it would cost me, but I guess that
shows us the mark up in the box stores. Still have the mitred corners on
the soffett to finish. I put up a couple of ceiling light fixture boxes
I am guessing these burners are the easy to unplug and remove for cleaning.
Great idea for cleaning , electrically it sucks. I spent 27 years actively in
the electrical maintance field and electric stoves were a real pain. The hard
wired burners are the best and the ones called monotube that
OK I'm biting . White is bakeed lumber?
Ron
- Original Message -
From: chiliblindman
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
You might consider the newer baked lumber. It will take
] Putting in a basement floor
I think it used to be called KD for kilm dried.
On Tue, 25 May 2010, Ron Yearns wrote:
OK I'm biting . White is bakeed lumber?
Ron
- Original Message -
From: chiliblindman
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010
woods, please visit this website.
Home
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns ryea...@sbcglobal.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
OK I'm biting . White is bakeed lumber?
Ron
Seems like this was a slow week. I roughed in the telephone and cable TV
wiring. Put in an additional four way switch in the dining room. Those top
plates were accessible from the new room. Reinstalled the post light we had
removed from the back yard. I put it down the hill close to the
I wouldn't be worrying about codes qat this point If there ain't one there now
it is a grandfather thing. I don't think we caught how much headroom we are
working with. Go for what suits you.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Tom Vos
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
Does this dirt floor stay dry? Is it possible to get twelve foot two bys into
this space down the steps? If it is dry and you can get the lumber down there
without cutting it nto four foot pieces wood could be a viable choice. Two
things I would lay dowm plastic on the dirt to trap moisture
Morning all,
Well the electrical rough in inspection just went well. Now more work. The
arc fault circuit breakers he didn't even look at. Could have saved $150.
Of course if I hadn't he would have looked for them. I have 90 percent of
the f channel trim up to put the soffet material in.
Some larger area stones are in order. pavers, concrete cap blocks or something
of that nature should do. You might try compacting the soil some what before
you lay the new stones also. A small piece of two by four hit with a hammer
will compact it some.
Ron
- Original Message -
Interesting question. As someone else said what are we protecting them from?
I use the flimsy latex when staining, furniture stripping and installing
fiberglass insulation. Sometimes if digging a hole or similar repetitive
operations I may put on a pair of leather gloves. Lined if it is
Hopefully the accessible terminals are the low voltage side. They will be the
smaller wires. The 110 side should be inside a junction box. You will need to
touch two screws at a time on the transformer. There is no ground in this low
voltage circuit. It will likely be eight, ten or
Well folks am I getting old or just worn out? The contractor is all
finished except for putting in the correct door and some paperwork. We are
both ready for the rough in inspection. Today I assembled the wooden stairs
to the outside. Ran out of screws so the stair boards are only screwed
Hello all,
Well the roof is on, the walls sheathed , the window in. Only lacking a
door and lawn grading and dirt removal and trash removal. The door from the
garage of the walkout basement was cut and installed Friday. Things are
looking up. May set some electrical boxes later today or
Well it doesn't matter what you drill the hole with. The Tapcon is usually put
in by hand with a nut driver or screwdriver. They used to sell masonary bits
to use in a regular drill and hammer drill bits for the hammer drill. I don't
know it that is still true. Regardless a regular drill
These are not a tapcon screw but some type of expansion anchor. Tehy do work
well.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: john schwery
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 5:57 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws
Lenny, also, you can
Well folks things are actually progressing. The floor trusses are laid,
decking on , stud walls up and most of the trusses on the roof. No
sheathing on walls or roof, but the contractor assures me the carpenter will
finish tomorrow and the roofer will work Saturday to make it water tight.
Reciprocating saws can use a wood cutting blade of about seven inches. If you
have one of them it would work.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Scott Berry
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 12:05 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Hello
If it was mine I would put it in a vise and try to streighten it my self. Put
the entire key in not just the bent end.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Brice Mijares
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 4:23 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition
Well after a frustrating trip to Home Depot I acquired enough parts to
water jet a pipe under our sidewalk steps. We have a outdoor post light
fixture close to our front door and had one in the back yard. Due to the
room addition I removed the one in the back yard. They use two 12 volt
Well folks,
When the contractor works he gets things done. It isn't just the weather
slowing this project. Anyway the wooden foundation is in the ground drain
tile and gravel over. This is piped to a sump if a pump becomes needed.
Some backfilling has been done, Still needs to remove a
They are the sheet metal fittings, adapters that transition the 5 inch round
duct into a 4 by 10 opening that the floor register fits into. This ducting is
for the heating and cooling air flow.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
To:
Could be the last pin is stuck. Lube the key up and insert it into the lock a
few times. Graphite is the preferred lube but a pentrating oil might be good
if a pin is stuck. Repeat as many as six times before giveing up. Even then
go back after a hour and try it. If you have a can with one
Most likely you have a chunk of dish cloth or sponge lodged in the cutters. It
could be stuck bearings, but doubtful. Feel down inside the disposal around
the edge and see, no pun intended, if you can find something of the cloth or
may be some plastic like off of some packaging . Feel real
Well the turning it backwards might work. Otherwise a socket with a long
extension to remove the nut on the cutters and someone to hold the hex wrench
in the bottom should allow the cutters to come up. You may not be able to
remove them as a lot of disposals taper in and the upper housing
Yes it takes a allen wrench. Try rocking it back and forth. If it turns
freely, then it is likely the starting switch or capacitor. Both are internal
to the motor. No telling what a motor repair shop would charge to repair, but
it is possible.
Ron
- Original Message -
From:
Just make sure it is turned off.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
Do I need to unplug the unit before trying to turn it?
Well some things are happening. The contractor had jack hammered etc. the
patio and back steps and removed the debris last week. Friday they came and
using a track digger dug the trench. In the rain no less. Waiting for the
ground to dry enough the bobcat can go up and down the small hill
One thing most dealers will provide if asked is a car fax or car facts. Don't
know which way it is spelled. Basically it lists the mileage and number of
times the car has changed hands, been titled. If a major wreck or flooding
then it should show as a salvage title somewhere. Also shows
Well on a Maytag I had there was a catch for the latch at the top of the door
opening. It had two screws that you would loosen and then the latch was
slotted for adjustment.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Lee A. Stone
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 8:14 AM
of money on the price of
the wire. If you haven't used any of the wire on that big 250 foot roll,
you could return it and buy the cheaper 14 gauge and possibly a much shorter
role.
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ron Yearns
Sent
9:32 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] room addition
Just curious, what are you using the 12 - 3 with ground for?
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ron Yearns
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:00 PM
To: blindhandyman
Hello folks. It appears the weather may let us get started on our room
addition. I called dig rite Friday so the locates on the utilities should
be done by Wednesday am. The contractor is planning to come Tuesday or
Wednesday to start sawing the pation up to remove and then the set of cement
As to an answer of why, I don't have a answer. If the breaker feeding the
baths is GFI also I would probably remove the GFI outlets and just depend on
the circuit breaker one. Over the years I have changed the outlet types ones a
few times. Just don't seem to have the quality in them.. If
: [BlindHandyMan] GFI's
It's tripping in the master bath only under a load from a blow dryer, and
it's reset within the bathroom it self.
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns ryea...@sbcglobal.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 6:56 AM
Subject
.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: RJ
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] GFI's
I would change it to a 20 amp
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent
-0600, Ron
Yearns wrote:
Looks like the outlet GFI that is tripping is defective. Since the GFI
circuit breaker protects it I would use a regular outlet.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Brice Mijares
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 9
You didn't mention if it is looser at the top connection or the bottom front.
Regardless it will likely require removing some of the leather. Not total just
one or two edges and folding back.Some arms are held on with a carriage
bolt with the nut on the inside of the chair. Some are
Yes you would be daisy chaining from fixture to fixture.. The large blue wire
nuts can if needed cover six or seven number 12 wires together, but you have to
strip them a bit longer than normal twist them together then if needed trim
with cutters then install the wire at more as a cover and
One of the main advantages of having unswitched power in the ceiling light
junction is that it makes it easy to add a ceiling fan and turn it on and off
with the pull switch independent of the light. Not a good idea to hang them on
the plastic or fibreglass boxes. Threads can pull out. Yes I
Message -
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How many connections are feasible.
Yes you would be daisy chaining from fixture to fixture.. The large blue wire
nuts can if needed cover six or seven
Number one unplug the charger. Take it outside and rinse it well with the
garden hose. Set it up and let it dry and drain for a good week. Then try it
on some other batteries. Two. Plug something else into the outlet. I doubt
very much it caused any problems with the outlet. Slight
Choice 1 and 2 are both ok. Mostly choice. Many electricians like to run the
power in the ceiling and drop off for the switch. Others prefer to run power
horizontally through the studs catching outlets and switches, then running a
line up to the light. Yes the white wire in number one is
The additional jacks. In our case they were short cords with a phone plug on
one end and the other has one or two femal jacks. One is marked telephone the
other computer. Or if only one it is for a phone. Anyway make sure the phone
is in the right jack. As someone elese mentioned they are
Yes the phones should now work. As for the wireless set up. Likely you will
need sighted help here. One thing I know is that you will need the number off
the wireless router/moden and then I think everthing else is done from your
computer through the ATt wevb site. But I didn't do mine.
Are you talking what we call thumb drives or zip drives? Is this all
compatable?
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Tom Hodges
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 5:23 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] FYI - Source for NLS cartridge cable
They make metalkick plates that you can buy and put down at the bottom. Just
buy the right size for the width of your door. I've seen them in polished
brass and stainless steel.
They just attach with screws to the door.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney
To:
Two thoughts. One a heater burns more hours than a oven or cook top. Two.
Most heaters have a higher B T U rating, therefore likely have larger burners,
consuming more gas, therefore more exhaust gas for lack of a better term.
Exhaust gas also contains solid particles, not just gas.That
If there is a wall switch for this closet light it might be possible. If the
dcable comes to the switch and then to the light. There is made a swith and
outlet combination that fits a single gang box. This would solve many of the
problems discussed. Hopefully this switch is inside the
The house wiring going to the light fixture junction box is likely the same
size as the rest of the house. However the fixture wires are much smaller
usually a number 18 which is good for about 5 amps. So if you just screwed
something into the socket as the old style adapters you have a 5 amp
I am reading this that the actual exterior handle has play in it or is loose.
This would certainly cause problems in the internal linkage not being right.
Take the panel off and tighten up the nuts that hold the handle on then see
what is going on.
Ron
- Original Message -
From:
Is the outlet in the living room along this closet wall? It would be very easy
for a outlet to be added in the closet just back of the living room one.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Jennifer Jackson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 8:24 PM
I don't know how much CLR costs, but since it is a mild acid why not get some
muratic acid from Ace hardware or similar store and use it the same. Yes it
is much stronger so care is advised. I used to use it to keep the toilet clean.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Tom Hodges
What the sam hill is going on in America. I used the old chrome plated
copper and later the gray and white pvc plastic line and never had a blow
out. Some might eventually seep but never had a deluge from them. Guess
the flex ones are easier to line up, but guess I will never put another one
Works best with some eyes to see if the sensor is indeed in the flame and
should glow red or orange. If it is there are testors for checking them, but
most people just replace them. Again as with the electric furnace a schematic
would be of help to know if the sensor is just a electrical
OK at least you have a safety shut off. Which may be where the problem is. If
it is not sensing a flame it will turn the gas off.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Kevin Doucet
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 11:57 PM
Subject: Re:
The test instruments used may vary some depending on your level of vision, if
any and your experience with electrical wiring systems of a house. The
talking multimeter that is available through a couple of places in Canada is
probably the best to use. If you have a fair amount of experience
Note my ideas are from working on gas furnaces but I doubt there are many
differences. Does this thing have any pilot light or thermocouple? Many logs
are just hand light with a match but I think some of the newer are spark
ignition with a pilot. If it has such, does the burner never light,
I might suggest a small tarp just to keep the dirt, leaves and blown rain off
it. I would run it a minimum of once a month. We set the generators at the
University to run 15 minutes every week. But of course they were on a
programmed clock and were a little more critical. That generator
If this just a electric furnace then one of the many relays, sometimes called
sequencer in a electric furnace has the magnetic coil or a contact not making.
There should be some where on the inner door of the unit a schematic or wiring
diagram. There are a number of these as there a number of
I think what I am saying that it is difficult to follow wiring and such without
a diagram. If one has a volt meter he can check to see if the coil is getting
voltage, check to see if the power is feeding through the contacts of each
contactor, relay, sequencer, whichever it is called.
Rough service bulbs such as used in trouble lights you can probably find at the
box stores. A better choice would be a traffic light bulb, which you might
have to go to a electrical supply house. They come in strange wattages such as
59 or 69 watts, but they last a looonnng time.
Ron
I was kind of wondering also, but yours came through so others should.
And for the benefit of the list . My contractor has just a couple of minor
questions to answer to the city and then we will start a wood foundation room
addition. I will keep the group advised on progress as weather
Well the ribbed galvanized roofing put on barns lasts a good 50 to 60 years.
The church I used to attend had the white painted metal. It was put on in the
early 80's and still looks white, some fading but no rust. It was put on with
ring shank nails and plastic washer. Washers still seem ok
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Metal Roof
Well the ribbed galvanized roofing put on barns lasts a good 50 to 60 years.
The church I used to attend had the white painted metal. It was put
Well similiar to Erics suggestion. Start removing the molding from the end you
are wanting to cut off . Slip a block of wood under the space you create as
you are prying it up. Then you can carefully cut it with a hand saw, but the
wedge under gives you a little more to manuver the saw.
Just a comment or two. All my quick disconnect fittings came with quarter inch
pipe threads. Some places may have them in three eights, maybe just my luck.
I have been told to use only black pipe on air and gas as galvanized may have
pieces that flake off and may clog orifices. Galvanized
Schedule L copper is bully acceptable, I assure you but that isn't really my
question.
What is an M-type fitting?
Do they make a manifold which includes valves?
Thanks.
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November
Dale,
If you are looking for long term use I would suggest you go with the half inch
black pipe. Unless you are using three eighth hose it could becomerestrictive
for some uses. The black pipe you would easy to come by pipe fittings and just
have to reduce down to quarter inch for the quick
Well someone at our Blind amateur radio club asked about the best talking
thermostat. I saw about eight hundred plus choices on google.
What is the experiences of the group?
Ron
OK I have and uise a click rule for stuff 4 feet and under and even at that it
gets a little cumbersume to handle. If you are cutting trim to go between two
walls two strips of board that will span the distance and overlap so you can
clamp them together with a couple of c clamps works best
One thing I used a number of years ago on laying out and framing for a concrete
foundation is a water level. It consists of a length of clear vinyl tubing.
Half inch in diameter works well but not real critical, just if too small you
tend to get some capillary action. Make sure it is long
I think that would depend on the person, time of day and number of adult
beverages consumed.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Dan Rossi
To: Blind Handyman List
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 1:43 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How level is level.
OK, so now that I got my
shop.
Jennifer
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sewing machines
I guess I do a very limited work on our machines. Our commercial
Just for the discusion. What style of male plug is on the machine? The
standard Edison plug rated for 15 amps has the two prongs parallel with the
ground down below. If it has a 20 amp rated male plug one of the straight
blades will be at 90 degrees to the other. If 30 amp, still at 120 it
Well I checked in the 96 issue of the NEC and if it is actually a DC motor
which is easiest to do speed control a 2 hp motor is listed as pulling 17 amps,
a single phase 2 hp is listed at 24 amps, and a squirrel cage, wound roter,
which I doubt it is is rated at 13.8 amps. With sine wave
OK I am not an expert on this phase of things. First it isn't just a matter of
hooking a inverter from the solar panels operating at DC to the power mains.
As Tom pointed out some electronics is involved in syncronousing the phase
angle of the power to the inverters output. Now for safety of
this?
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ron Yearns
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2009 20:48
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Backfeeding question
Bill would you care to explain your
Note, I have not examined this generator and have read very few of the postings
on it. First it is rated 3000 watts. But I dont't know at what voltage. If
that is 120 we would be looking at about 25 amps continous and perhaps the 28
you mentioned. More likely the 3000 watt rating is at 240
outlets
* lightweight, compact size; EPA approved
Bill Stephan
Kansas Citty MO
Email: wstep...@everestkc.net
Phone: (816)803-2469
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns ryea...@sbcglobal.net
Date: Saturday, September 26, 2009 9:34 am
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan
Just another option would be to buy two two drawer file cabinets and a blank
slab door. Sizes do vary, but six foot eight inches will be the shortest
without sawing it up. Makes a relatavely sturdy desk. You can get solid core
doors if you want that much weight . Screws can be put through
The only requirements on junction boxes is that they be accessible and have a
removable cover. Be careful you don't add too many cable and wires so it
exceeds it capacity.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September
thought of just drilling holes kin the wood and using zip
ties to secure it. So, how thick should the wood be?
earlier, Ron Yearns, wrote:
Some of my answer would depend on the material the frame is. If wood
that you can sink screws into, or plastic or metal that screws or
bolts
Some of my answer would depend on the material the frame is. If wood that you
can sink screws into, or plastic or metal that screws or bolts can be put
through would secure the board, plywood. If you can secure the board around
the edge a thinner material can be used. Even one fourth would
Many lumber yards and some hardware stores will rekey your locks so the same
key can fit all them. Sometimes different makes will not work together, but if
you can remove all the locks, after you have found one that does rekeying, and
take them them then they can tell you what they can do.
Ron
I doubt if Home Depot or Lowes have anything that large. Plumbing supply will
sell only in 21 foot length. I would suggest a section of rigid galvanized
electric conduit that comes in ten foot sections. Costs less than plumbing
pipe. Because it is softer and made to bend, but with
some good reasons from the list not to take this approach, I'm
planning on using his idea. Thanks.
Take care,
Ed
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ron Yearns
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 11:46 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Usually the laminate is glued to the edge so it is good and flush up against
the top piece. Then when the cutting of the top is done the side bearing is
running against a smooth piece of laminate and the top is cut flush with the
side and is less apt to be snagged and torn off.
Ron
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