The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 878 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Replacing E36 ignition cylinder Re: Replacing E36 ignition cylinder Re: differential drone Re: differential drone e30 front seat - seat belt receivers - Need 2. Re: <E53> M54 block coolant drain
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2005 17:45:51 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: uuc Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: Replacing E36 ignition cylinder Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Mon, 2005-11-21 at 18:34 -0500, KMS- Brett Anderson wrote: > Yes, although it also has a handle so you can rotate it once inserted. > > Practice on your new one before trying to remove the old one. This is > on of those jobs that can be 30 seconds or 45 agonizing minutes. > > If your current cylinder is permanently freewheeling, you can't get it > out with the tool, you'll need to buy the steering lock assembly and > replace both. I replaced the cylinder on our '95 M3 today and now see why these things fail. There is a small (real small) tab on the outside of the hull that mates to the steering wheel lock assembly. If you try and force the key this tab will break and the hull of the cylinder will want to spin with the cylinder. Those of you who are experiencing the 'spin' are living on borrowed time and really need to just replace your cylinder. They are only about $65 from the dealer (with CCA discount) and are pretty easy to change. FWIW one of my hobbies is lock picking, so I had some tools to make removing the cylinder easy (with minor mods), and I have the 'feel' for these things. If you have never played with locks you might want to spend the $25 and get the tool to remove the cylinder when you do the job. Might spare you an hour and a bunch of cursing. I was able to use a paper clip, but its kind of a finesse job, you cant force it...just need to go on feel. Oh..one more thing..when you replace your lock assembly be sure to remove the broken tab from the steering wheel lock housing or else you wont be able to install the new one. Its very small and hard to see but its down around 4-5 o-clock. Just slide it out with a needle or something and the new cylinder will go right in. Dave T. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2005 21:34:08 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: Replacing E36 ignition cylinder Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dave Thomas wrote: > I replaced the cylinder on our '95 M3 today and now see why these things > fail. There is a small (real small) tab on the outside of the hull that > mates to the steering wheel lock assembly. If you try and force the key > this tab will break and the hull of the cylinder will want to spin with > the cylinder. That's the exact idea. Beyond EWS protection, you still need to unlock the steering column to start the car. The easy way should be to stick a big screw driver into the ignition cylinder and twist. The result, in a BMW, will be to break off this little tab and freewheel the cylinder. Unfortunately, it also happens to break off during normal abuse. Heavy key chains, lots of lateral stress on the lock cylinder as you are turning it is one cause, another is the standard "begin to turn the key before it's all the way into the hole" syndrome that we're all guilty of. When the cylinder is freewheeling intermittently, it's because the broken tab is providing enough friction to hold the cylinder in place much of the time. If you ignore this, you will end up grinding down the tab until you have a permanent freewheel situations. Once this occurs, it's impossible to remove the lock cylinder using the standard method. You have two other choices. 1. Drill it out, but good luck because no drill bit I have is hard/sharp enough to even scratch the cylinder, and 2. Replace the lock cylinder and steering lock assembly as a unit. More $$ that way. List price on the cylinder is $71.50 I think. It has to be special ordered to your VIN (from Jan 95 production) and you will need to supply your shop with a copy of your registration and driver's license (matching names) in order to place the order. Brett Anderson KMS-Koala Motorsport www.bmwdiffs.com 9988 Kinsman Rd Novelty, OH 44072 (Near Cleveland) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2005 20:56:46 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: differential drone Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John Bolhuis wrote: > On Wed, Nov 23, 2005 at 10:31:04PM -0500, KMS- Brett Anderson wrote: >>Bearing issues at your mileage are rare. You shouldn't see issues >>until well beyond 200K, unless the car has been towed at any speed, >>rear wheels down, on a wheel lift truck for anything more than 20 >>miles or so. > > > I don't understand the difference to the diff between coasting downhill > and getting towed. I always thought that you didn't flat tow because of > transmission lube issues, not because of the diff. How about coasting uphill, at speed, for mile after mile after mile? That's the equivelent of the car being on a wheel lift truck. The front of the car is high, the rear is low, the pinion bearings are higher than normal while on flat roads, way higher than normal on uphill, and normal on downhill.... The pinion bearings starve for oil, especially if the oil is low anyway, but even if it's not, these diffs carry a very small amount of oil, compared to their available volume, so nose high, the oil is going to have trouble getting to the front pinion bearing. Brett Anderson KMS-Koala Motorsport www.bmwdiffs.com 9988 Kinsman Rd Novelty, OH 44072 (Near Cleveland) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2005 06:11:36 -0800 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: differential drone Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Fri, Nov 25, 2005 at 08:56:46PM -0500, KMS- Brett Anderson wrote: > > I don't understand the difference to the diff between coasting downhill > >and getting towed. I always thought that you didn't flat tow because of > >transmission lube issues, not because of the diff. > > How about coasting uphill, at speed, for mile after mile after mile? > > That's the equivelent of the car being on a wheel lift truck. The > front of the car is high, the rear is low, the pinion bearings are > higher than normal while on flat roads, way higher than normal on > uphill, and normal on downhill.... The pinion bearings starve for > oil, especially if the oil is low anyway, but even if it's not, these > diffs carry a very small amount of oil, compared to their available > volume, so nose high, the oil is going to have trouble getting to the > front pinion bearing. Ok, that makes sense now. I was starting to worry if driving thru mountainous regions of California and Oregon was shortening the diff bearing life. (and I guess it might if you parked overnight nose-up at the base of the biggest hill and drove straight up for miles first thing in the morning) However, it would have to be a pretty steep hill, yes? I recall from looking into my e30 diff that the ring gear would sling oil into a passage cast into the top of the housing that ran down towards the front and dropped oil into the pinion bearing area. (at least that's what I think I saw) So hopefully on all but the steepest inclines (or towing positions), some oil would still run toward the pinion bearing. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2005 23:39:47 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: e30 front seat - seat belt receivers - Need 2. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dear All, Hello.. I am looking for 2 front seat seat belt receivers.. Does anyone have a set that they can sell me? Please contact me directly - [EMAIL PROTECTED] thanks Mo ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2005 09:45:32 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: <E53> M54 block coolant drain Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> so I just leave it then? drain the radiator and call it good enough? - k --- original message --- From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E53> M54 block coolant drain The coolant drain in the block is essentially for you to drain the block after removing the engine. It's been many years since BMW made it an accessible service item. And if you think BMW is bad about that, try Chevy. Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote: > ...so the next question would be... how the heck do I reach this in an > X5? Seems about impossible (no way to see it or get to it that I can find). ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(6 messages) **********
