The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 626 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Fw: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Re: Fw: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Re: Fw: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Have you been to the track this season?
Re: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
E-46 rear spring pads part numbers
Re: E-46 rear spring pads part numbers
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 17:34:19 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Fw: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Leave the car assembled, heat the springs, when it sags to the ride height
you want, throw a bucket of cold water on the springs.
Gary Derian
>> Rather than cut, its better to torch and compress.
>> Torch the top coil or two red hot with propane, or better, MAPP gas.
>> Wearing heavy leather work gloves, for a front, press the spring cup down
>> on the top coils, for rear, hold the opposite end of the spring and press
>> against a flat concrete or metal surface, down to the desired degree of
>> compression.
>> This method maintains the concentric seating of the spring in its
>> perch that cutting takes away. To restore a professional appearance, or
>> wish to pass tech for a class that requires stock springs if you're so
>> inclined, clean and spray the coils which were torched with several
>> lights coats of glossy black spray paint.
>> Barry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 14:58:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: Fw: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I heard it's better to spray them with liquid nitrogen at
that point.
-tammer
--- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Leave the car assembled, heat the springs, when it sags
> to the ride height
> you want, throw a bucket of cold water on the springs.
> Gary Derian
>
> >> Rather than cut, its better to torch and compress.
> >> Torch the top coil or two red hot with propane, or
> better, MAPP gas.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 15:11:04 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: Fw: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Aw shucks, if that's how you feel about my suggestion, then just use pee
on the spring coil, the uric acid will temper the metal surface better
anyway. ;-)
Tammer Farid wrote:
>I heard it's better to spray them with liquid nitrogen at
>that point.
>-tammer
>--- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>>Leave the car assembled, heat the springs, when it sags
>>to the ride height
>>you want, throw a bucket of cold water on the springs.
>> Gary Derian
>>
>>
>>
>>>>Rather than cut, its better to torch and compress.
>>>> Torch the top coil or two red hot with propane, or better, MAPP gas.
>>>>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 15:04:44 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I dunk the spring in icey water after pressing down the coils. A
pile of snow, if available, cools the metal quickly too. I leave alone
the middle coils which bear most of the load.
On the E36 front, for example, heat the top coil and a half, and
compress the top coil so it rests on the second coil. So essentially
the top coil is now a spacer for the second coil to rest on rather than
springing any of the cars weight. The effective springing begins on the
spring cup past where the notch for the end of first coil is. On the
barrel wrap rears, heating and pressing the small thin wire top and
bottom coils while leaving the main load bearing large diameter thick
wire section alone has the same effect.
Best thing to do if skeptical is practice first with a pair of junk
springs that don't matter if you mess them up, so you can see how the
compressed springs seat themselves.
Even when cutting a spring, it is still recommended to torch half a
coil from the cut end and press the coil flat so it seats in the perch.
Barry
Richard Dorffer wrote:
>--- JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>>Rather than cut, its better to torch and compress.
>> Torch the top coil or two red hot with propane, or better, MAPP
>>gas. Wearing heavy leather work gloves, for a front, press the spring
>>cup down on the top coils, for rear, hold the opposite end of the spring
>>and press against a flat concrete or metal surface, down to the desired
>>degree of compression.
>>
>>
>
>Don't you think you compromise the integrity of the spring? Wouldn't you want
>to peen the surface
>of the spring at a minimum to restore some of the original strength? (Note, I
>personally wouldn't
>attempt to heat up a spring to reduce its free length regardless of any
>measures to try to restore
>the spring's original characteristics).
>
>
>
>> This method maintains the concentric seating of the spring in its
>>perch that cutting takes away. To restore a professional appearance,
>>or wish to pass tech for a class that requires stock springs if you're
>>so inclined, clean and spray the coils which were torched with several
>>lights coats of glossy black spray paint.
>>
>>
>
>This appears to be an endorsement for cheating in a stock class???
>
>:-/
>
>Later,
>
>Rich
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
>
>
--
The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh.
I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off and
use a Mac. " Author Unknown
Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product.
-- Ferenc Mantfeld
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 19:18:57 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
New physics, the middle coils bear most of the load while the ends don't??
Making the springs coil bind in excess of what they already are seems like a
bad idea as well.
You really didn't address either of my comments.
Later,
Rich
> From: JKerouac [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> I dunk the spring in icey water after pressing down the coils. A
> pile of snow, if available, cools the metal quickly too. I leave alone
> the middle coils which bear most of the load.
(rest snipped)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 22:18:34 -0400
From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Have you been to the track this season?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Howdy all. Just wanted to drop a note, after a beautiful, sunny day at
NHIS, at a great event put on by the BMW CCA, White Mountain Chapter. Track
season is finally here! Have you made your plans yet? Lots of stuff coming
up, so check the calendar!
In April and May: the Boston Chapter of the BMW CCA is back at NHIS on
April 28, Northeast Region of PCA is at NHIS on 5/3-4, and the North Country
Region of the PCA is at NHIS for their great, traditional Memorial Day fest
at NHIS. FCA has a lot of track time available at WGI on May 4-5, and
Pocono on 5-29-31.
In addition, if you're still looking for other options in the Northeast, or
don't belong to these clubs, consider also a couple of independent
organizations. Ian Prout still has room at NHIS on 4/27 and Watkins Glen on
5/2 and 5/3, with plenty of room. Great atmosphere (can't beat the Prouts'
friendliness!), lots of time, and interesting vehicles. Information is
available on www.scda1.com.
Also, Todd Serota is continuing his TracQuest WGI tradition on May 16-17 -
first class, no-BS track driving, with adult passing rules, deluxe
hospitality, and guaranteed more track time per day than anything short of
renting out the track yourself! www.tracquest.com
There are, of course, even more events coming up over the summer, but don't
dilly dally! We're burning daylight!
BTW, I had a *great* time at NHIS yesterday for the SCCA regional race,
hanging out with Andy and Laurie Sanborn, Bruce Ledoux, Neal Heffron, the
Maynards (of 3D Autoworks), Peter Faill, Damon, Stephanie, and lots and lots
of other cool folks. Bruce Ledoux came in second in his Spec Miata, Andy
Sanborn came in second his brutal 911 race car, and the fetching Laurie
*won* her class in *her* 911 race car. I "helped" by spotting for Andy,
listening to the officials on the scanner and radioing "advice". Not quite
as fun as racing myself, but I did get pretty caught up when Andy had a shot
at catching Woody Harrington, after a yellow flag session. Next time, Andy!
Dave Maynard, child prodigy, managed a 3rd despite lots of mandatory ballast
and a beaut of a spin, and Mr. Faill was so dominating, he won his class
without any challengers. The Sanborn's toterhome, or Race Central, is the
coolest place to hang out at the track that I've ever been allowed in.
During the lunch break, we were huddled around the TV, watching the ALMS
race at Road Atlanta via satellite. Who doesn't want to be Andy? Pics are
here:
http://www.photoworks.com/share/shareLanding.jsp?shareCode=A4E5963BB9F&cb=PW
And, yes, I *really* *really* *really* want to go racing. More news to come
later in the year? Fingers crossed! Meanwhile, a few of us are putting a
plan together to go to the Targa Newfoundland (www.targanewfoundland.com).
Anyone else in? :-)
Vty,
--Dennis
.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 20:30:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
KC:
Jack and I cut those springs. We used a cut-off
wheel. I do recall that there was a 0.5 count so the
springs didn't seat well in their perches and there
was noise. The reason for the cutting was that
aftermarket springs were unavailable for the iX.
More recently, I've cut 3 sets of iC springs down one
coil. I measured the space between the free end and
the adjacent coil and reduced the cut end to the same
spacing by vising it and heating it a bit to bend the
free end in. The spring sat noiselessly in the perch.
In the case of the iC, I find this and Bilstein
dampers to be the best street suspension for the
front. The rears do not need work.
As someone else pointed out, I did paint the springs
in each case.
Neil Deshpande
92 M5
87 944
ex-86 325 eta
ex-88 iS E30 M3 springs/Bilstein Sport dampers
ex-89 iC cut front springs, stock rear spring/Bilstein
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 12:04:04 -0400
From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Err...yeah... I suppose if you really wanted to have
"fun" you could
cut
the rears. I can't say I endorse it, though! (Damn,
am I going to
need a
good lawyer now?)
IIRC, we cut half a coil from Jack Money's iX front
springs. It
definitely
lowered the car and made the ride somewhat stiffer.
Neil or Jack, feel
free
to correct me if I'm wrong!
KC Boyce
'97 M3/4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 23:26:54 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Any metalurgists or materials scientists with applied experience
here to give definitive answers of the structural integrity effects?
I think my words "if you're so inclined" wrt attempting to cover up
a mod speak for themself. If you're looking for an excuse to twist
other's words, there are other BBSs glad to take your post.
Dealing with cheaters used to be fun when I autocrossed a lot.
Most gentlemanly approach was to let them know you're aware of their car
not conforming to the rules, not file a protest, then go beat them and
their illegal mods with your own legal car anyway. If they do beat you,
let them know you 'prefer not' to see the offending item on their car at
the next event. Good way to make a friend.
Others keep it quiet about an illegal car in class and save it as a
trump card for the time the cheater car does beat them.
An endorsement of cheating would say nothing about that a shortened
spring restored to a stock legal appearance can be a means of declaring
a non-stock spring to be stock, since those inclined to do so would
understand that implicitly. By stating so, it brings it into the open
as an area that can be scrutinized on a car that is suspected of being
outside of its class rules.
Anyway, if you want to go faster, the car is not the place to
start, its in improving the ability of the driver that makes the most
difference.
Barry
Richard Dorffer wrote:
>--- JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>>Rather than cut, its better to torch and compress.
>> Torch the top coil or two red hot with propane, or better, MAPP
>>gas. Wearing heavy leather work gloves, for a front, press the spring
>>cup down on the top coils, for rear, hold the opposite end of the spring
>>and press against a flat concrete or metal surface, down to the desired
>>degree of compression.
>>
>>
>Don't you think you compromise the integrity of the spring? Wouldn't you want
>to peen the surface
>of the spring at a minimum to restore some of the original strength? (Note, I
>personally wouldn't
>attempt to heat up a spring to reduce its free length regardless of any
>measures to try to restore
>the spring's original characteristics).
>
>> This method maintains the concentric seating of the spring in its
>>perch that cutting takes away. To restore a professional appearance,
>>or wish to pass tech for a class that requires stock springs if you're
>>so inclined, clean and spray the coils which were torched with several
>>lights coats of glossy black spray paint.
>>This appears to be an endorsement for cheating in a stock class???
>>:-/Later,Rich
>>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 07:08:25 -0400
From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
for those worried about the metallurgical properties.. what's the big
deal? stock oem springs often break anyways and it's not the end of the
world
around here, after the winter potholes get mostly filled, it is quite
common to find rear springs broken (e30, e36 mostly)
while it's a good excuse to 'upgrade' to aftermarket springs, quite
often it's the aftermarket ones which are even more prone to breakage..
(my local garage discourages installing aftermarket ones because he
knows he'll be replacing them after a winter)
chris pawlowicz
'89 325i
'99 z3 2.8
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 10:01:24 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "JKerouac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Car springs are wound hot, to there is no big deal in heating them again.
One wants to take care to match a pair, and the end coils need to be
slightly closed to fit properly in the spring seats. Also BMW front springs
have a specific number of coils to fit properly so one can only cut springs
in whole coil increments.
Gary Derian
> Any metalurgists or materials scientists with applied experience here
> to give definitive answers of the structural integrity effects?
> I think my words "if you're so inclined" wrt attempting to cover up a
> mod speak for themself. If you're looking for an excuse to twist other's
> words, there are other BBSs glad to take your post.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 14:57:32 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: E-46 rear spring pads part numbers
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Does anyone know if you can get different thickness rear spring pads for an
E-46? I know they are available for the E-36. If you could post the part
numbers for the different pads and their thickness I would appreciate it.
Thanks, Marc
NOTICE:
This message has been checked for all known viruses!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 12:10:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E-46 rear spring pads part numbers
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
On Tue, April 19, 2005 11:57 am, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
> Does anyone know if you can get different thickness rear spring pads for
> an
> E-46? I know they are available for the E-36. If you could post the part
> numbers for the different pads and their thickness I would appreciate it.
Well, using RealOEM.com, there aren't any additional pads listed for the E46.
However, the 5mm pad listed is the same part number as the one for the
E36. Based on that, I would guess that the 7.5mm amd 10mm E36 pads would
work on an E46.
For reference:
SPRING PAD 5MM 33531136385
SPRING PAD 7,5MM 33531136386
SPRING PAD 10MM 33531136387
Hope that helps,
Jim Bassett - is the Internet cool, or what? :-)
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(12 messages)
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