I have a magnifying glass and a bright light, so I should be able to see pretty
good down there. I do know the area (back of the cap near the tube) where the
problem is occurring, so that will help also.
“.and an improperly adjusted tension/spacing nut on the rear.” I saw that
nut and
I've had numerous L4/L4B amps over my 47 years as a ham and fixed about
just as many. Still have 3 of them here in different stages of projects.
One thing I have always disliked is the heat from those 50K resistors. I
can fry an egg on the top of my power supplies. That is a lot of
- Original Message -
From: Roger White rwhitete...@verizon.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2012 6:53 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] Removing the Load Variable Capacitor on
a L-7
I have had a Drake L-7 sitting on the shelf unused for a few
years now and recently
I have removed the tube nearest the back of the load cap and can get at the
bearing adjustment. The adjustment is REAL sensitive and so far I have not
been able to achieve a non shorting state, but it is better (so to speak!).
I will try the ohm meter test this afternoon and make some small
Hello Roger and group,
I had the same problem with an L-7 I bought some time ago. It came
without P/S, was cheap and had 3-500ZG with graphite anodes from RF
Parts. But I was aware of a short in the load cap because you could hear
it when turning even without RF applied. I bought the whole
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