G'day,
At the salt mine so not near #1400 at present.
How exactly do you determine that transmission has stopped? Does the
receive unmute?
On #1400 when I cross the QRP/QRO boundary level, in either direction,
there isn't any unmuting and just for interest I set up as split and
the TX
On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 09:23:49 -0300, Michael Harris wrote:
G'day,
At the salt mine so not near #1400 at present.
How exactly do you determine that transmission has stopped? Does the
receive unmute?
On #1400 when I cross the QRP/QRO boundary level, in either direction,
there isn't any
Slater :
There are some commercial and shareware packages for OS X
at :
http://www.machamradio.com/HamsAndX.html#audio
I haven't used any of these personally but there seems to be
a number of options so I am sure that you can find something
that meets your needs and budget.
Cheers
Michael
Elecraft aficionados,
We moved December 10th and have a new address, phone
and email. I'm unsure if Ellen has received your
email, her email changed and was not active until
recently. Try emailing her again the details with the
new address. We are still unpacking from the move and
the part time
Michael,
I ordered a shirt from them back in October/November and it did take
a while. Their replies kept getting dumped in to my bulk folder and I was
not getting them. The lady, Ellen, finally called me on the phone. It still
took a while because she had to order a shirt in my size. They
It also could be that the parts are in another bag, or laying loose
somewhere. I had this happen. I thought I was short one capacitor. Everyone
kept telling me this was an exception. I called and Scott mailed the
component. I went ahead with assembly as this cap was later on down the
Hello all.
I'm getting ready to do alignment and test partII and noticed this on
the reflector.
1) L31 was shipped to me as a 10uH shielded Inductor, but my PLL Reference
Oscillator Range would not go higher than 9.45 kHz until Lisa (in Parts)
shipped me a 12uH replacement. The range is
I'm in a very stormy country (Northern Alps) and we have at least once per
month a thunderstorm that already cost me one pair of power Xstors (in my
TS-130 - $380!!!) so even with $5 each TO220 part, I did not want to loose
them, or at least reduce the chance to loose them.
So I instaled on
Just spent my first hour with my K1 kit. Here's what I'm missing so
far:
2 - Thermal insulator, TO220; for Q6, Q7 (RF BOARD)
1 - Acrylic display bezel; for LCD (Front Panel)
Found these in the envelope marked Serial Number Kit. That could have been
identified better. :-)
1- 2N7000
which part numbers do I need to order to have a complete k1?
k1 all band possible noise blanker battery and tunner
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Hi all,
I'm running a K2 ser. 1020 with an old ksb2 rev.2. this combination runs
very well so far.
At Christmas I got a second ksb2 from eBay, unbuild and a new rev. D. I
bought this, because I wanted to do the bandwith mods anyway. The Kit is
containing the new crystals and I got perfect 2%
Pedestrian Mobile Tip #2...
i added an additional rubber foot on my KX1 to make it easier to hold.
i hold my KX1 in my left hand around the left side of the KX1.
The display is almost covered by my hand. My left thumb is near the paddle.
This places the KXPD1 paddle right in front of me to send
Ooops. Never mind Parts, WA7BOC pointed out the error of my ways. I
found them.
See, the old wise man was right!
Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
-Original Message-
From: Roger Stein [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 11:06 AM
To: 'Stan
OK - now that I have started from 0.01 and gone UP to 100w with PTT held
closed on usb, mine does the same thing that you describe (stops xmit as
soon as the KPA100 kicks in - still in xmit mode but no power out) AND
starting from 100w and going down to 0.01 it does not do this (ie continues
to
Funny, when I inventoried mine all the parts were there and the
count was perfect the first time through, except for one cap I thought was
missing. Didn't have to do it again because when assembly was complete there
were no left over parts.
Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
On Fri, 21 Jan 2005, Larry Makoski W2LJ wrote:
When I built my K1 and again when I built my K2 there was not a single part
missing. Nada, zip, zilch, zed, zero. I had THOUGHT there were parts
missing in both kits. It turned out that I had overlooked them or found them
to be in a place
Dear Sir:
Tks to you all on the efficient manner in which you handle your
correspondence. Please go ahead and Post Me To This List. Thank You.
73,s CUL,
Jim (N5NVP)
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 1:17 PM
Subject:
Dear Sir:
The following msg came back to me as if you did not receive it. Please
Post Me to This List-Thanks in advance.
73's CUL,
Jim (N5NVP)
- Original Message -
From: James J. Bookter, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 1:49 PM
This should work... let me know if it doesn't.
Thanks
http://home.centurytel.net/w9wis/sewdivine/Elecraft_Shirts.html
--
Michael Melland, W9WIS
Redgranite WI USA EN54lc
http://home.centurytel.net/w9wis/
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Evening Craig,
I've built the K2 with nearly all the mods for it, a K1 with a couple of the
mods for it, now doing the KX1 and DSP for the K2. I can only remember one
time that I was missing any parts..and I just happen to have those parts in
my junk box.
Not sure how many kits you have built
On Fri, Jan 21, 2005 at 01:56:59PM -0600, James J. Bookter, Jr. wrote:
Dear Sir:
The following msg came back to me as if you did not receive it. Please
Post Me to This List-Thanks in advance.
It's working--you've posted it twice. Welcome to the list.
Bob, N7XY
G'day,
snipo
If you whistle/speak into the mic you get no RF out !
snipo
OK I agree. Using PTT I can hear my carrier leak on an outboard RX.
When I reduce requested power from 100W past the 10W transition there
isn't any reduction in the signal level. Increasing the requested power
past
No Comment needed...
Glad you found your parts.
Art W6KY
Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Who is Christine and how much did she have to drink before she packed
my kit? :-)
Why would it 'never' occur to me to make a comment like this about
someone I didn't know?
Art W6KY
Maybe
Kevin,
The smaller the PLL range, the better the temperature stability. The 10uH
gives better temperature stability, so try for the 9.8 kHz minimum with 10
uH first. If you have a particularly good PLL crystal (there is some
variation in each manufactured batch) then you may need 12 uH to make it
I need some recommendations. The KDSP2 instructions state to install C5,
C8,C3, and C4 with the capacitor flush to tje PCB with the exposed leads not
more than 1/32 (1mm) above the PCB. Could someone please tell me how they
accomplished this task. The best I can mamage without cracking the
Chuck Gehring wrote:
I need some recommendations. The KDSP2 instructions state to install C5,
C8,C3, and C4 with the capacitor flush to tje PCB with the exposed leads not
more than 1/32 (1mm) above the PCB. Could someone please tell me how they
accomplished this task. The best I can mamage
Chuck:
I need some recommendations. The KDSP2 instructions state to install C5,
C8,C3, and C4 with the capacitor flush to tje PCB with the exposed leads not
more than 1/32 (1mm) above the PCB. Could someone please tell me how they
accomplished this task. The best I can mamage without
Looks like we're going to have to come up with a new award category
Yesterday, I got a letter from Arnold KØZK who holds Century Club Award
#2 and Worked All States Award #6. Arnold's been busy and at it again!
This time he has worked all 50 states; but this time, all the ops he
worked
WAERIAS, pronounced WEAR-ee-ass (Acronyms at NASA had to be
pronouncable, and generally typable with the fingers of one hand --
while the other hand held down the shift key)
Worked All Elecraft Rigs In All States.
Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
Larry Makoski W2LJ wrote:
Looks like we're going
Hello All,
I'm currently building my K2, and have come to the tilt bail installation part.
I must be missing something, because the force required to compress the tilt
bail between the two rubber feet seems very excessive. To make the bail fit
between to feet will require A LOT of force.
Is
Mike,
A goodly amount of force is normal. It is often difficult to hold the bail
and foot still and straight enough to get the proper screws into the holes.
I temporarily use the longest black screws that you have in the K2 kit (the
ones that will be used to mount the final transistors) -
FOR SALE: Elecraft K2 with KAT2 automatic antenna tuner and KSB2 ssb adapter.
Built to the highest standards by Extra Class ham and retired electronics
instructor for 38 years.This ser.no. 34XX model was built using toroids from
The Toroid Guy . It is in mint condition except for a small
Bert,
I have been pondering your reflector note -- and as far as I know, there is
nothing on the KSB2 that is band dependent, it operates at the IF frequency
only.
Are you certain your K2 gives full power output with the old KSB2 installed?
Re-check to be certain.
The only potential
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