Hi All,
My K2 will be in the post soon. Meanwhile I have been avidly reading
in readiness for the build. One mention of this mod refers to C72,
many others like Stan Jim refer to C71. Checking the schematic for
the KPA100, C71 is listed as 0.0018uf decoupling RFC3 to ground and
C72
Hi to all the list
I am happy to let you know that K2 #3279 is up and running. Some of you
may think what is absolutely true. I had the kit on my bench for quite a
while with no time to build, but finally I found a gap during last
Christmas holidays. I was delighted with this building experience
Welcome Ted,
Sorry, biut I cannot help on this one as I have yet to find out what it is
all about. The old problem, time !!
Have fun building and then using your KPA/100, I'm sure you will. Mine went
together like a piece of cake thanks to the great job done at Elecraft. And
the folk on the
Morning/ evening everyone.
Could somebody please tell me if it is safe to operate the K2's Control
Board (for the board and bits) on its own outside the K2 from a regulated
12V supply fed to P3 contacts 1and 2 and ground pin 7 etc? I would put a
load on the LM380 AF amp to keep it happy.
73,
Regarding the RFI problem when running 100W.
I also had a bad RFI problem when running 100W. It would get into
the computer, TV and all the audio equipment in the house.
What I finally did to cure the problem was I ran 3/4 inch flexible
copper water pipe from the shack out 20 ft to the
Ted and all,
It is C72 - originally a 0.01uF located at the gate of Q6. Should you doubt
it, I can supply the confirming e-mail 'from the horse's mouth' when I first
asked that same question.
I do not yet know if this is a recommended change or if it is only to be
applied when the 'click
Gerhard,
Do NOT scrape the tinned pads. Your problem is due to insufficient heat.
I hope you are using an adjustable soldering station.
Increase the heat to 400 degrees C.
Good luck!
73, Bob VE3XM
K2 S/N 02676
K2/100 S/N 04031
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From the rules for this weekend's contest
(http://cq-amateur-radio.com/160%20Contest%20Rules%20200510272004.pdf) I
read Please observe the DX window from 1830 to 1835 kHz during the hours of
darkness. The DX window is for intercontinental contacts.
Does this mean Please avoid 1830-1835 because
Dan
Your second alternative is the right one
Please use 1830-1835 to make CQ WW 160 CW contacts
with another continent?
Now I just need to hear another continent to work them :-)
73, Bob N6WG
-- Original message --
From the rules for this weekend's contest
Hi,
Something else you may wish to consider is your house
wiring. Older and some newer homes are not wired to
code. If you can borrow one (assuming you don't want
to run to Home Depot and buy one) get a outlet
checker. This little device will tell you if your
outlets are wired correctly and
Well, actually what it means is, Please use this 5 KHz DX Window ONLY
to make intercontinental contacts. You can make intercontinental
contacts anywhere on the band, and there were quite a few JA's around
1820 this AM. Just don't work locals in it.
73,
Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
A good way to
Ted Turk wrote:
My K2 will be in the post soon. Meanwhile I have been avidly reading in
readiness for the build. One mention of this mod refers to C72, many
others like Stan Jim refer to C71. Checking the schematic for the
KPA100, C71 is listed as 0.0018uf decoupling RFC3 to ground and
The KPA100 manual states that a low wattage 800 degree F. soldering
iron is
required.
No - it says that a temperature-controlled iron at 700 to 800 degree tip
is required.
It also states that a larger iron or soldering gun is required for the
power transistors, output transformer and DC
Gary:
What is the new Erratta (K2/100 Errata C-3) about and should I add it to
my K2/100 sn 4493 (I think its 4493 any way).
Dose this have any baring on the C71 C72 discussion on the reflector.
Fred
KG6JL
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Post to:
i was just out doing an FYBO (Freeze Your Boots Off) shake down run in the
snow.
i put my KX1 in an 8 x 7 thin plastic bag.
i cut a hole in the side for the paddle.
It works well, it is a little hard to tune the big frequency knob but
it kept it very dry.
Just worked w5kdj, ak5x, kd7bvn
i was walking in the snow not sitting...
My feet got cold...
Pedestrian Mobiles don't sit, they walk...
Paul w0rw
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Subscriber Info (Addr. Change,
FTBO does not necessary mean sitting. :)
Ron wb1hga
i was walking in the snow not sitting...
My feet got cold...
Pedestrian Mobiles don't sit, they walk...
Paul w0rw
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You must be a
Paul was a true 599 in Dallas and the KX1 sounded great...really nice CW
note and keying. This end was a K2 SN 4637 and a MINI-33 @ 35'..
Thanks for the PM contact Paul.
Bill
AK5X
Dallas
--
I have just built the KDSP2 and everything seems to work properly,
including the clock and changing the filter frfequencies.
However, the red LED remains on. I have checked U1, D3 and that the
DSPx module is properly aligned, as suggested in the troubleshooting
section, and am now a bit
In the words of the immortal Ron Ziegler*, my previous comments on this subject
are inoperative at the present time. Here is what I determined today:
Problem: some K2/100s produce a large click in the headphones or speaker on
unmute. The click requires that the power be set to at least 11
In a message dated 29/01/05 16:36:57 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
If you have a balanced antenna
system, or even an unbalanced system with RF properly choked off from the
outside of your coax, there will be no RF on the chassis that 'as to go
somewhere'.
In addition, it
Vic:
Certainly it is the case that the remedy that solves one emi problem might
make another one worse. That is what makes emi so difficult.
73,
Steve
AA4AK
Brunswick ME
At 04:33 PM 1/29/2005 -0800, you wrote:
Stephen W. Kercel wrote:
If radiation from the exterior surface of the antenna
Hi folks -
Between the torroids and the relays on the right side of the RF board are unsed
holes right at the edge of the relays - can anyone tell me what they are for?
73 Tim/NZ7C
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You must
For ferrite cores for EMI suppression see www.fair-rite.com
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
The proper term for the ferrite material in the Balun is-
Round Cable EMI Suppression Cores
One part number (in a series of many types) is Fair-Rite part nr.
264-310-2002
for HF or 14 mHz. The cores (of
In a message dated 30/01/05 01:32:53 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
All of the 75 ohm stuff that I've seen wasn't rated for high voltages
anyway, so it's likely to melt at the voltage loop when hit with high power.
AT the very least, it'll be rather lossy.
I've uploaded our new KRC2 download utility for Windows and the latest
KRC2 firmware hex files for the V1.2 KRC2 and KRC2ACC code to the
Elecraft web page.
See http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual_Download_Page.htm#krc2
73,
Eric
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As a follow up to my post on the KRC2 windows download utility and new
KRC2 f/w, now that I'm back on s/w I am also finishing up the long (and
patiently) awaited KRC2 configuration utility this week.
The download code is common between the new f/w download utility and the
upcoming KRC2
How does one download the firmware to the KRC2 if one does not use Windows as
an operating system?
On January 29, 2005 6:53 pm, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:
I've uploaded our new KRC2 download utility for Windows and the latest
KRC2 firmware hex files for the V1.2 KRC2 and KRC2ACC
As a followup to Darrell's question, the KRC2 updates have always been
downloadable using a terminal program. In fact, I do this regularly on
my Macintosh system for testing. If anyone needs the directions, we can
certainly post them.
And if you really want to dive in and write a program
Awesome! Thanks for thinking of us non-Windows users.
On January 29, 2005 7:20 pm, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:
It can also be done manually by copying the hex file to the KRC2 with an
ASCII terminal program via your system's serial port. It will require
you to set your terminal
To Elecraft owners in the Aurora/Denver area,
I have offered to set up and man an Elecraft table at the ARA Swapfest in
February. If any of you in the area are planning to attend, I could use a
little help. It would be especially helpful if you have a VHF or UHF
transverter to show off. I'm
Bob, G3VVT wrote:
Not sure that the statement that it would be rather lossy is correct as I
have been led to believe that twin feeder is less lossy than coax and
particularly the 50 ohm version. Even the 75 ohm hard-line coax as used by
cable TV companies was always better than the 50 ohm coax
Ron, Bob and all,
It is quite true that losses increase as the SWR increases - the ohmic
losses are the contributing factor with increased current, but the
dielectric losses will be important as the voltage increases - so both are a
contributing factor. How much contribution is due to the
Hi Tom,
It worked even easier than I thought. Ran Spectrogram with a frequency
marker set to my SPOT frequency (600Hz). Tuned the 4.00 MHz birdy with the
VFO until it lined up on the frequency marker. Turned on the SPOT and
confirmed that the two tones were beating. Then adjusted the CW
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