Hi John --
Here are some resources you might find helpful if you haven't run across
them already.
Top-level link:
http://www.handiham.org/
Tactile CW transducer with schematic.
http://www.handiham.org/pdf/tactile.pdf
The resources page says that the CW transducer, among other
For sale: Kent-Two straight key / paddle combo. 1 Day old, minimal
use. $131 new cost, sell for $108 delivered con-us. E-mail directly
to: kd1e (at) adelphia (dot) net
It arrived, I tried it, still prefer my old stuff.
.
My Kent-Two arrived yesterday. It is a nice unit. A bit bigger
Hi guys,
Been a while since I last kept up with the list. You were a great source of
help back when I built K2 #1133. Now I have #5226 and have completed the
second section of construction. The receiver works, I can hear stations on 40.
Yesterday I listed to Mid-Cars, Southcars, and
It is difficult to suggest just where the problem may be. It could simply
be a matter of filter alignment, or it could be something not right in the
receiver path.
Since the receive path is now complete (although the front end is now built
only for 40 meters). so you can either debug it now or
Joe:
I suggest that you check the installation of C6 the 4.7 pf disc located on
the very back of the board between L1 and L2. This capacitor shouold be
installed so that there is an empty hole between the two leads. You
actually install it in a spot for a jack that is installed if you
Hi
Double check T7. Make sure the green winding is in 1 and 2 and the red
winding is in 3 and 4 closest to the IC U12. If it is backwards the
sensitivity will be low, the audio will be low and the AGC will not work
properly although everything else will appear OK.
Don Brown
KD5NDB
-
In a message dated 12/24/05 1:14:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Well, there you are! Restorable ARC-5s are expensive but junkers aren't.
Most have been ham-hacked into oblivion. Today, it would be a shame to
deface or modify in *any* way WWII-era military radios
I was shopping Mouser for components for a project. I noticed the SMD devices
I need are Lead Free. Will I have any trouble soldering these components
with Tin/Lead solder?
Mark Saunders, KJ7BS
Glendale, AZ
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Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1 internal battery
installed with the K1's cover in place?
I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like to access the battery
compartment.
Thanks!
Tom K2TA
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Mark Saunders, KJ7BS wrote:
I was shopping Mouser for components for a project. I noticed the SMD
devices I need are Lead Free. Will I have any trouble soldering
these components with Tin/Lead solder?
No.
If you're used to SMDs with lead plating, though, you'll notice that it
takes a
Tom asked:
Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1
internal battery installed with the K1's cover in place?
I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like
to access the battery compartment.
The knobs you speak of are just replacements for the two small screws
Thanks Mike and Paul!
I was looking at the photo on the Elecraft website and saw there where still
provision for four 3D screws to hold the cover on and imagined a smaller
cover directly over the batteries that had two knurled screws holding it in
place.
The verbal description of the two knobs
Hi Don,
You nailed it I put T-7 in backwards. Duh!. As soon as I put it in
correctly, well it sounds like a K-2 ought to.
The K-2 was a Christmas gift from my XYL and I am enjoying the build. With
this problem solved Phase II of construction is complete. I must call the
House of
I need to replace U6 in my KPA-100 and have a TL05 from Radio Shack. It's a
dual op-amp with the same pinouts as the LM385 but not sure if they are
interchangable.
Any thoughts?
Tom K2TA
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The KBT1 should have been made easily removable so that the
compromises associated with having it installed need only be
suffered when absolutely needed. The KBT1 *should* attach via a
cable with a polarized two-pin female connector to a male connector
*anchored* on the RF board. This
Does anyone on the list have some professional background using
fuzzy systems theory for time series estimation?
Thanks,
Steve Kercel
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WOW! Great job Steph!
I happen to have a 3-pin socket handy here. I think add the diode to the
RF board and follow your example on the stock K2 cover too.
Plus the 9-volt snap connector is fast. Also allows 1 or 2 quick contacts
with a 9 volt transistor radio battery in a real emergency.
- Original Message -
From: Robin Kiszka-Kanowitz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 26, 2005 7:58 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] QSO with other K2s
Hi,
Now I have had my K2 for some 2 years I have still not had a single QSO with
another K2 ... anyone
I originally ordered my K1 with the internal battery accessory. Didn't like
the little speaker at
all compared to the larger one. Also the cells were a pain in the butt
to install and remove for charging.
I never thought about leakage, but that makes a lot of sense!
I use a 10 cell holder with
I have recently finished the KIO2 accessory for my K2. Everything appears to
checkout as it should but I have a strange behavior using the KIO2 and Ham
Radio Deluxe. My control board is Rev. B and as I understand from the manual
there should be no modifications required of the board itself?
Ed,
While I may be wrong, I would think there is no problem with either the KIO2
or the K2. If you look at the KIO2 Programmers Reference, you will find
that the K2/KIO2 report (or get) the frequency in 11 digits - the high order
and the low order digits are ignored when sending a frequency to
Hi guys. Well, I am almost completely cleaned out except for dust.
three items to go at half list plus postage. Higher bids accepted!
IMD meter by KK7UQ. Nifty and it works. Join the clean signal club Really
squeeze the stations in the PSK bands.
MFJ 259B meeer in good shape.
Vibroplex twin
I am interested in the imd meter and the mfj analyzer. Can't find your
price list?
73
Bill
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