Just finishing up a KPA 100 kit for my k2 and am running into a problem
I'm up to the SWR Bridge Null Adjustment on page 44. I set up the power to 5
watts (connected to a dummy load), and I get a Hi Current message followed by
a reduced output reading. I checked the dummy load on an antenna
NEVER MIND. I had the antenna connector plug P6 backwards. Oooppps. Took
about 10 minutes after I posted the first message to find the problem. hi hi
Onward!
Thanks anyways, and beware. I'm building again. OH N! Not him again.
I'm back. Antenna tuner is next in my sites.
73's Roland
AHA!!Now I understand. I installed the backlight at the same time that
I built my K1 so I never came across the instructions to use it as a
spacer...although it sure seems thicker than the gap between the display and
the backlight but I'm going just from memory.
So for those of you who
*For Sale: Elecraft K2*
*Well built, perfectly functioning SN 3654 CW only K2 with following
options:*
*Noise Blanker (KNB2), Internal DSP (KDSP2), Antenna tuner (KAT2),
Serial I/O (KIO2). (Note,this unit does not do SSB or cover 160
meters.). Latest firmware 2.04P and 1.09. Not counting
Wayne,
Are you aware of any software packages (ie N1MM,
GenLog) that support the EQP format?
I could look into posting an announcement on 3830, if
you'd like...
Look forward to working as many of you as possible.
73,
Julius
K2/100 #3311
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Sorry Wayne, I see the information was there... Trying
to do too many things at once again.
Cheers,
Julius
n2wn
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Elecrafters:
Is the Powerwerx ATC 20- amp fuse and holder suitable for fusing the
power supply lead to the K2/100?
73,
Steve
AA4AK
K2 # 5383 (almost in hand)
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Hi Steve:
Though I'm not using that specific holder, I AM using a blade-type
fuse holder, model 115LF ($2.95) , (purchased from www.wb0w.com (no,
actually purchased from www.gcplus.com, the
connectors/terminals/fuses side of his company, run by his XYL,
Jean). This fuse holder uses #8 wire
Hi Steve:
I previously wrote
To join the two wires, I use a home=made butt-joint connector
fashioned from a 3/4 length of brass (hobby) tubing purchased
at my nearby hardware store. I Stripped the ends of the two
wires to 3/8 each, bought a length of hobby brass tubing which
would
SALE PENDING on my K2 ... Tnx for looking.
*For Sale: Elecraft K2*
*Well built, perfectly functioning SN 3654 CW only K2 with following
options:*
*Noise Blanker (KNB2), Internal DSP (KDSP2), Antenna tuner (KAT2),
Serial I/O (KIO2). (Note,this unit does not do SSB or cover 160
meters.).
Let me throw in an experience here that may save someone else a little
confusion. When I built my KPA100 the kit was complete EXCEPT for one half
of the fuse holder. I was building it over a Thanksgiving weekend so I
didn't even consider calling Aptos for the part. I just hopped down to the
local
Hi Dave,
Sorry I missed you the first time. I would think that your problem is not
that the PLL reference oscillator and BFO ranges aren't being displayed; I
think your problem is that the ranges are incorrect.
I had the same problem with the BFO range when I was building my K2. I
local osc not working , voltages okay, all parts in right place,
solder joints ok. what do i look at next.
ron , kc0tdj
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Ron,
I have got to admit it, but the last time I had such a problem, I hunted for
a while and then discovered that the oscillator transistor was mounted
backwards (I never do something like that G) - changed it and the problem
was gone.
What I am saying is that you should check and re-check
Greetings from Argentina.
I am building K2 # 5310
I have purchased all Rework Eliminators (they were a breeze to install, by
the way and are very neat indeed!) and I have all K2 options except 60
meters, i.e. 160mtrs - DSP - NB - K2/100 - SSB.
I have completed part II of the RF board and the
Manuel,
If you can receive a signal with an antenna connected to C225, but not C226,
or 227, your most likely problem is improperly tinned toroid leads on L25 -
but check L26 while you are working in that area.
A quick check is to make a continuity check from the top end of C225 to the
top end
Anyone know how safe these automatic Windoze updates my computer wants
to do are? This would be a GREAT one to respond to directly and not on
the reflector!
Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
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Don:
By the way: when I get to C225 the signal disappears. I have signal through
the junction of D3 D4. Therefore no signal on C225, C226 and C227.
I checked the toroids and they are ok. I forgot to mention I purchased the
full set of toroids from the Toroid Guy and they look impeccable. I
Hello,
Over the winter time I have been struggling with going out and setting up
my WA3WSJ's VBWFPA antenna, www.wa3wsj.com. The present mounting system is
PVC tubing that you need to drive into the ground. Needless to say when the
ground is frozen or there are a lot of rock in the soil the
Manuel,
Sorry, I had understood (incorrectly) that you had a signal at C225, but if
not, there is something between your good D3, D4 junction and C225 that is
bad.
Check C114, Jumper W1 (or your unmodule at the 160 meter position and the
header), and relay K12. There are no other components in
On Friday 24 February 2006 22:33, Fred Jensen wrote:
Anyone know how safe these automatic Windoze updates my computer wants
to do are? This would be a GREAT one to respond to directly and not on
the reflector!
Fred,
What a tease .. Windoze .. gnu/linux .. uggh ..
I'm posting from my
Hi Manuel
Look and re-look for an
incorrectly placed component (or a component with improper orientation) this
is the most common problem
Now in Portuguese...
Ve os componentes pois o mais frequente é teres trocado a posição
(transistors o contrário ou os diodos).
Good luck Manel I'm very
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