[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So, what is the preferred safe container?? Is the semi hard plastic
utility box ok? I don't have any metal containers which are
suitable..
For ICs and transistors, I prefer to use the black antistatic foam that
Elecraft ships them in. there's usually a bit more space
Greetings all,
We had an interesting time a few years ago in the UK when PLT (power
line telecomms) was a new threat. We built a mains supply to spec
complete with street lighting standards and then tested various power
line transmission proposals for radiation. Needless to say it
radiated,
One item for sorting parts I haven't seen mentioned is glazed earthenware
...the XYL here has some very nice shallow dishes with sloping sides
that go missing when I have a kit on the bench! They are quite solid and
not so easily flipped over if something is leaned on them during use( I
hi all,
For most uses
the RF noise is unimportant and it's one of the most difficult things for
many who use these supplies to assess without actually trying the unit in
the shack.
I agree, but I found out that a coarse measure for the quality of the supply is
just its weight. Plastic
Has anyone had any experience using ridge vents as antenna
(or part of an antenna)? Effect of rain wetting the roof
shingles? Comments??
73
Ray K2HYD
Ray,
Another possibility for overcoming your limitation is to use weather
balloons to loft your antenna:
I had a blast working the Foxes last nite on 40/80 with K1 and KX1
with 100MW to full throttle 5w depending on cndx. It's like
fly-fishing with with the lightest weight gear you can find and if you
land one you'd better be careful to give him all the line he needs but
not to much or he'll snag ya
Steve,
You can download free acoustic spectrogram software that will run on a PC;
at least it is free for ten-day use. I run the KX1 audio out into my PC
microphone input. There is a link to the spectrogram software on the
Elecraft website. It is commonly used to peak a K2. It works great to peak
Another possibility for overcoming your limitation is to use weather
balloons to loft your antenna: http://www.allsopp.co.uk/
They have many different sizes of balloons to choose from. You could
easily use a vertical antenna, and raise it several hundred feet without
a problem. Just make sure
I have an Analog Devices 9850 DDS clock drive chip that I requested from the
manufacturer about a year ago, intending to build one of the DDS VFO boards
available from AMQRP. Well, I never did, and now that board is no longer
available, the new one uses an updated 9851 chip.
I hate to discard
All,
Looks like I really set off a minor comment explosion when I posted my
questions on using ridge-vents as antennas! It's amazing how we Elecrafters
jump in to offer comments and help.
I appreciate all your helpful comments, info and suggestions, and look forward
to doing more
I use the Brass Pro Shops, storage box, for sorting caps and other non
electrostatic sensitive components. The box I like is the model 370, as it
has adjustable dividers and the price is right. I would never use them for
electrostatic components. Keep your electrostatic components in
Russ Tobolic wrote:
Rick;
I recently completed K1 2136 and went with the 120pF VFO capacitor. This
gave me a tuning range of approx 178KHz and 15KHz/rev which is just a
little touchy but not difficult. It depends on how stable your
fingers are when tuning. I may try 100pF to make it just a
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Sam Morgan
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 9:26 AM
To: elecraft - qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range
I recently purchased the above keyer; I send with my left hand copy with
my right hand. I want
Thanks all, chip is spoken for.
73,
Mike
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Friday, March 24, 2006 9:38 am
Subject: [Elecraft] AD9850 chip available for the asking
I have an Analog Devices 9850 DDS clock drive chip that I requested
from the manufacturer about a year
Wow, What a support Group Thanks to all the oldsters out there who
responded to my cataract problem (surgery went well yesterday by the way).
Now my next question is what kind of antennas to use (mostly for 20 meters)
when out camping. Here in Northeastern Illinois, most campsites
The only ground antenna I worked with was a 270 ft. horizontal loop
made from #28 enemeled wire. It was in a pentagon shape and laying
right on the ground.
It loaded well with my antenna coupler thru a 1:1 homemade balun
wound on a big 4 ferrite toroid form with about 12 turns trifilar
wound
I use one of these 8 foot long two-piece magmount verticals for 20 metres. I
just put it on top of the car - or a sheet of metal if I don't have the car -
and it works a treat. Doesn't even need an ATU.
I've managed the States and Japan miles from here with 4 watts RTTY no problem.
73
Bob
Dick
Don't let just a single tree in a campsite hold you back.
Use it and have fun. Drooping dipoles work just fine.
When the xyl and I were camping in Oregon, there were only some
rose bushes by our campsite and no trees. So I laid out my
40m dipole over the bushes, about 4 ft above ground,
Bill Striegel wrote:
I recently purchased the above keyer; I send with my left hand copy with
my right hand. I want the dits on the right paddle(thumb) the dahs on the
left paddle(index finger). Ground in the middle. No wire came with it. What
kind of wire do I need what wire goes to what to
Many EQP submissions have come in. Thanks!
We're hoping to have all EQP scores in by April 12th, but in honor of
income-tax time in the U.S., we'll extend it to the 17th :)
73,
Wayne
N6KR
---
http://www.elecraft.com
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For 20 meters my favorite is a ground plane. Use a 20 foot Black Widow
telescoping fishing pole for a support. Clip one end of a 16.5 foot AWG 26
wire to the loop at the tip with a fishing swivel. Support the pole with a
single peg driven into the ground (slip the pole over the peg). Twist the
I have a portable dipole that I use for camping. I bought it off ebay.
The doublets each roll up in a plastic wind-up contraption. It's kind
of like a yo yo tenna deluxe (not made by the same company). The center
insulator has two screw terminals that I connect my 300 ohm ladder line
to.
If you sent an email between March 15th and 1:00Pm (noon) Tuesday, March
21st to either [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] your email may
have been lost in an email crash on my computer. If you have not
received a reply to an email sent during that time please resend your email.
Due to
Along those same lines - back about 10 years ago while trying to participate in
field day with a group of local hams at a cabin in the U.P. of Michigan, I
ended up stringing an 80m dipole up about 6-10 feet off the ground, and made
dozens of contacts within 500 miles (MI, WI, MN, IA, IL, IN). I
Anybody have any idea how an 80m loop would work at 3m height?
We just moved into a new place with NO ANTENNA RESTRICTIONS, but I fell down
hard last summer (3 weeks unconscious in ICU) and am not tempted to get very
high again.
All this talk about on-ground and under-ground antennas made me
Dan, WG4S asked:
Anybody have any idea how an 80m loop would work at 3m height?
We just moved into a new place with NO ANTENNA RESTRICTIONS, but I fell down
hard last summer (3 weeks unconscious in ICU) and am not tempted to get very
high again.
All this talk about on-ground and under-ground
Dan Barker wrote:
Anybody have any idea how an 80m loop would work at 3m height?
It would probably work adequately as an NVIS (near vertical incidence
something-or-other) antenna. In other words, you would have *very*
strong signals out to a couple of hundred miles on 40 meters, a little
Ron, thanks for the thoughtful reply. I bet that describing the bowl in
NECeese will be harder than talking someone up two trees 50' or so. I'd love
a Loop Skywire again, but it might be harder to talk Carl up FOUR trees.
If the models don't make bowl specification easy, or even possible, then a
Rick:
I have K1 #1423 which I build 3 years ago. I first
went with the 150 KHz tuning, it was way to touchy and
I changed it to 80 KHz.
Lately I have wanted to work just above 7.1 MHz and I
opened up the K1 and put a silver mica 22 pfd in
parallel with C2. I put it on top of the board.
I now get
I use a method similar to my home installation of a 100 foot spool of
#16 insulated primary wire hanging from a limb high up in a big fir
tree. At home it drops from a 70 foot branch at a 45° angle. The
copper plumbing system in the crawl space is the ground half of the
system.
When camping I use
Before I go and order the wrong thing, can someone tell me a Mouser or Dig-Key
(or other) reference number for heat strippable enamel covered wire similar to
that which is provided with the Elecraft kits.
Thanks,
Tom, WB2QDG
K2 1103
___
Elecraft
In my experience, it's ALL heat strippable! Your mileage and smells may
vary!
73 de Alex NS6Y
On Mar 24, 2006, at 12:17 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Before I go and order the wrong thing, can someone tell me a Mouser or
Dig-Key (or other) reference number for heat strippable enamel covered
--- Dan Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
not tempted to get very high again.
There's a dope smokin' joke in there just screamin' to
get out!
Sorry to hear about your fall...sounds like it was a
nasty one. If it had to happen, I hope it was at
least in pursuit of a better antenna system!
73,
The local oscillator on the XV222 will not generate a sufficient
signal level. The voltage measured at TP1 is 0.45VDC.
When first tested, TP1 read 0VDC. Seeing posts about a balky
oscillator being sensitive to L4A, I adjusted the slug while watching
at TP1. Sure enough, as the slug was
Bill,
Connect the paddle you want the dots on to the tip of a stereo 3.5 mm phone
jack, connect the dah paddle to the ring and connect the paddle common
(ground) to the shell - then you can run with INP PDLn, change to INP PDLr
to reverse the connection for those with 'other hand persuasion'. Of
No, I wrote correctly. 25 FARADS.
But, this is SMALL in comparison. Elna offers 600F @ 2.5V. About 5 long x
1.5 diameter!
YES, 600 Farads. I kid you not. I did a double-take on this one. Really!
See: http://www.elna.co.jp/en/ct/pdf/DPe.pdf
73,
Steve
aa8af
-Original
Matt Osborn wrote:
Do we use non-metallic because
1. metallic screwdrivers will physically damage the slug?
2. metallic screwdrivers will magnetize the slug?
3. metallic screwdrivers affect the readings while adjusting?
4. other?
Mostly 3 and 1.
--
Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209.
Matt asked:
The local oscillator on the XV222 will not generate a sufficient signal
level. The voltage measured at TP1 is 0.45VDC.
When first tested, TP1 read 0VDC. Seeing posts about a balky oscillator
being sensitive to L4A, I adjusted the slug while watching at TP1. Sure
enough, as the slug
I can report a success with my problem I reported yesterday.
I changed C8 to 10 pF and now AGC off works as expected.
Thanks to Gary, Wayne and everybody on the list for their support.
Its great how this group works together.
Wayne suggested this too:
The simplest cure for this may be a
On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 14:53:26 -0800, Ron D'Eau Claire
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Matt asked:
The local oscillator on the XV222 will not generate a sufficient signal
level. The voltage measured at TP1 is 0.45VDC.
When first tested, TP1 read 0VDC. Seeing posts about a balky oscillator
being
In one of my trade magazines I recently read of a 3000 F capacitor. Yes,
kiloFarads. Interesting things are happening in the super capacitor field.
Kevin. KD5ONS
-Original Message-
From: Steve [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mar 24, 2006 5:19 PM
To: 'Phil Kane' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc:
Steve wrote:
No, I wrote correctly. 25 FARADS.
But, this is SMALL in comparison. Elna offers 600F @ 2.5V. About 5 long x
1.5 diameter!
YES, 600 Farads. I kid you not. I did a double-take on this one. Really!
See: http://www.elna.co.jp/en/ct/pdf/DPe.pdf
Hmmm ... I wonder what the
But not as bad as this one.
That 3KF cap sounds expensive. To buy one, I'd guess you have to
charge it...
;-) :-) :-)
On Mar 24, 2006, at 3:45 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:
In one of my trade magazines I recently read of a 3000 F
capacitor. Yes, kiloFarads. Interesting things are happening in
-Forwarded Message-
From: Kevin Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mar 24, 2006 7:09 PM
To: Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)
But, much like the muzzle of a firearm, you do not want to be close when it
Yesterday I played antenna, changing the height of two antennas.
Today my 40-M Inverted V fed with 50-ohm RG8-X had high SWR; it had worked
the day before at a lower height, hm.
I built one of those 4SQRP Tenna Dippers some time ago. Sure enough the
LED didn't come close to extinguishing
Hi Ron,
Yes, Q1 is mounted 3/8 high with the teflon spacer. I was thinking that
the crystal is OK because it oscillates at the correct frequency.
How critical is the MPS 918? Could I substitute a 2N in place of Q1
just to check out the operation of Q2 (BFR96)? Is that a sensible thing
The local oscillator on the XV222 will not generate a sufficient
signal level. The voltage measured at TP1 is 0.45VDC.
When first tested, TP1 read 0VDC. Seeing posts about a balky
oscillator being sensitive to L4A, I adjusted the slug while watching
at TP1. Sure enough, as the slug was
Has anyone modified a K1 so that you can transmit/receive on 3700?
John Lally
W7JJL
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I remember in my high school physics class (1955) the instructor (ex-
W7TSZ) told us that it might be possible to build a ONE farad
capacitor, but it would be as big as the classroom. Times have
really changed!
73,
Bob, N7XY
On Mar 24, 2006, at 3:45 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:
In one of my
On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 17:58:53 -0800, Bob Nielsen wrote:
I remember in my high school physics class (1955) the instructor (ex-
W7TSZ) told us that it might be possible to build a ONE farad
capacitor, but it would be as big as the classroom. Times have
really changed!
The materials have changed
Does anyone have experience with the MFJ 297 mike and the K2?
John
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