Hello,
Has anyone been able to control an Icom PW-1 amplifier from the K2 using the
KRC2 band decoder? THe KRC2 worked beautifully with my old Hercules II but
lacks a conversion to the Icom band specific information that the PW-1 needs. I
know the Microham Decoder will do it but at $330 there
Looking for a late serial number (5000+ if possible but will consider
others) K2/100 (or possibly just a K2). Would like most options with it. If
you have something like this for sale please email with all details, (serial
number/mods/options included/condition/etc.) and best price shipped
I have had good experiences peaking my KX1 using an AC voltmeter on the
audio out. Tune to a place with no signal or use an RF noise generator. Also
check the sensitivity of your headphones; you should have something north of
100 dB per mV.
Mike Scott
AE6WA
Tarzana, CA
DM04
I'm building K2 # 5422 - and just finished the Control
Board, and the Front Panel board. Assembling the FP
board to the front panel and encoder, etc.
K2 Manual calls out cut 4 hookup wires, 1-1/2 long,
remove insulation .
Are they talkiing remove insulation from each end of
each wire, or
I recently completed my K2. I assume that it has the very latest firmware.
Although it works fine with k2Remote, it doesn't work reliably with any
third-party software that I've tried. I've tried the latest version of dxLab
commander, HamRadioDelux, and even purchased HamStationExtreme.
Fred,
Yes, bare wire is what is called for - I usually just use some of the longer
component leads, but the supplied wire works fine, just remove the
insulation from a length of the wire and cut the bare wire to length.
After the encoder is soldered in, the leads are sufficiently short that
Fred,
I read it as bare wires and installed accordingly.
73
Bob
2M0KDZ
#5339
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Rich,
I am running my K2 with the latest firmware and Ham Radio Deluxe works fine
here. If the K2 operates properly with any program (check with a simplistic
one, like HyperTerm), then the K2 is responding properly and you can look for
the solution in your computer - the answer will be found
Yep, bare wires. It took me by surprise as well (yesterday) but I just
followed the directions exactly and all was fine.
Also, there is a thermistor board that you'll have to build and install,
again using 8 bare wires. That operation was a bit of a pain since the
board is so small and I have
Rich,
My K2 works without problem with MixW 2.16. MixW even controls the PTT through
the TxD line rather than RTS.
I don't even have the loopback RTS/CTS installed.
73
Bob
2M0KDZ
#5339
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Hi
Here is a little trick I use when building the thermistor board. After
installing all of the components place the board flat on top of 2
thicknesses of the black anti-static foam. Stick the bare wires (I use
resistor leads) into the holes on the board and down through the foam to the
Elecrafters others:
I am trying to rescue an old KDK-2015R 2 meter FM tranceiver. The crystal
for simplex transmit has failed. KDK doesn't support this relic any longer,
but I suspect I can order a new one from Int'l Crystal.
The XTAL is a 16.9 MHz (fundamental) crystal and measures close to a
Rich,
I have my K2 (sn 4950) working just fine with DX Lab - commander, and
with HRD; no stalls; I had to adjust the frequency of interrogation to
get it reliable, but it seems to be quite happy in doing it. I also
remember something about setting the com port in the com tab, and the
radios
My KDSP2 seems to operate normally except for two problems.
1/ LOW PASS
CW (widest bandwidth, 800Hz)
No problems when increasing the center frequency up to 1.1 kHz -
Spectogram confirms the filter setting.
However, setting the center frequency to 1.2 kHz seems to actually lower
the center
test
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Help:
Rich
I suppose it depends on what you are trying to do.
Here I use TR LOG with my K2, and will shortly (as soon as I
get a new(er) desktop computer) be going to SO2R with two
K2s. TR will handle them just fine.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude
-Original
2/ BYPASS MODE
The bypass mode can be set to DSP BYP using the menu.
However, this does not actually bypass the KDSP2.
Please note the current the K2 is drawing (use the DISP button) when in
operating mode and in bypass mode. If the current drain is reduced, the
KDSP2 is bypassed and the
Warning - if you use an external USB = serial adapter then get a good one,
they are not all alike. Some can't handle the strain of repeated
communications, especially with Windows 98. Some have poor driver software
which gets in a muddle.
I have come across the stalling problem a lot but not
A serious suggestion for Elecraft - sell or recommend a good USB = serial
converter to avoid the misery caused by the lesser options out there.
Simon Brown
---
http://blog.hb9drv.ch/
- Original Message -
From: Simon Brown (HB9DRV) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Warning - if you use an external
Not to endorse radio shack but, I have had very good luck with their
USB-Serial adapter.
We went through this a few years ago, but it sure would be nice for Elecraft
to make a USB interface and scrap the serial adapter altogether. I think now
is the time as the last two computers I bought have
Got a microHAM USB-II and it works GREAT!
Rich,
KE0X
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You can always add serial ports. best thing Elecraft could do is increate
the speed of the I/O card to 57,600.
FWIW I have two ports on a PCI card and 4 via a USB = serial port
expander. All work flawlessly.
Simon Brown
---
http://blog.hb9drv.ch/
- Original Message -
From: Rich
On Thursday 30 March 2006 13:22, Rich Lentz wrote:
We went through this a few years ago, but it sure would be nice for Elecraft
to make a USB interface and scrap the serial adapter altogether. I think now
is the time as the last two computers I bought have NO SERIAL PORT and no
way of adding
H i;
Maybe some one can help. I am building K-2 # 5423 with the rework
eliminators.
I got the unmdules and missing parts but the instructions were not good for
installing missing parts. I figured it all out except the 60 meter module.
I installed D-19 and 20 before testing and alignment part
I had the same issue with HRD and it was the USB serial adapter. The one I
was using had a transfer speed of 115 mbps which apparently wasn't
sufficient. Bought a Keyspan adapter with a transfer rate of 220 mbps and
all works well. I did have to go into the device manager and make a few
changes to
Fred,
Be light and quick when soldering the bare wires to the encoder. Too
much rework or too much soldering can melt the plastic and internals on
the encoder, making for an expensive replacement (not that I, uh, have
any, uh, experience in this are, of course).
Leigh/WA5ZNU
On Thu, 30 Mar
Thanks,
I had a few responses about USB/Serial adapters. Since I've had poor luck with
almost every control software program I've tried, I was suspecting the serial
adapter or the K2. As you are probably aware, most notebooks no longer come
with I/O ports. I've added 8 prolific USB/Serial
Oh, in re-reading your message, it looks like the transfer rate is an issue.
I've got my USB/Serial adapters out on USB hubs, so they don't get full
bandwidth. Maybe that's the issue. Odd that a 4800 baud device needs 200+mb
connection to work...
Thanks again
Rich - KE1EV
[EMAIL
Not sure of the others on this list but EVERYTIME I have ever used a
USB/Serial adapter on a USB hub I have had problems. Often it was not
recognized upon startup of the PC - it was only recognized when unplugged
and then plugged in with the PC On. I had to place the adapter in every USB
socket
Phil,
Check the companion guide on their web site. A menu setting also needs to
be changed. (extended vfo)
Bill K3UJ
Maybe some one can help. I am building K-2 # 5423 with the rework
eliminators.
I got the unmdules and missing parts but the instructions were not good for
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Oh, in re-reading your message, it looks like the transfer rate is an issue.
I've got my USB/Serial adapters out on USB hubs, so they don't get full
bandwidth. Maybe that's the issue. Odd that a 4800 baud device needs 200+mb
connection to work...
Thanks again
Rich
Phil,
This is one aspect that I would like to see the rework eliminator guys
reconsider, but since you have now added D19 and D20 and have changed C71 to
120 pF, do the next step and enter the K2 menu and set D19 to ON - then you
should be able to get all bands within range. By the way, the
Better yet, take the next step and provide a module
for direct USB communication with a computer.
The KUSB2...I can see it now, and I'll be first in
line if and when it happens!
73,
Ken Alexander
VE3HLS
--- Simon Brown (HB9DRV) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A serious suggestion for Elecraft -
Long ago I upgraded my K1 from firmware version 1.06 to 1.09. I kept the old
MCU, a PIC16C77-04/P, but I'm not sure why. If I'm not a programmer, would I
have any use for it beyond reverting to 1.06 in an emergency? What have
other K1 upgraders do with theirs?
Scott N1AIA
Hello again folks,
A week or so ago I contacted Gary about a problem with excessive current
on Q6 when I was trying to do the 40 meter transmitter cal. Turns out
that Q10 was shorted driving the base to 4 volts key down. Replaced Q10
and that problem is fixed.
Now, however, the VFO is
Actually, I'm designing one as we speak. It's a compound USB device
containing a sound card and serial port. I did a proof of concept with the
design strung out on my bench. I never used it on the air but the USB side
of things worked quite well. The signals on the waterfall looked very good.
I
I have a little used SLV 80-10 mtr portable vertical antenna made by
W6MMA.It has multiple wire elements for each band instead of 1 radiator.
I will accept a reasonable offer or trade it for an MP-1 or a Spider
mobile antenna.
Thanks, John KF7OM
I am trying to access the KIO2 port via Hyperterminal. I want to try out a
little programming experiment. What are the proper com ports settings?
73,
Bill - WA5PB
K2 #1068
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Kevin
N8IQ
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Allen
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 9:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2 settings?
I am trying to access
Ah yes the kitoon. Had heard of it but forgotten. Seared in my memory
instead was two Field Day attempts by my club at balloon antennas, both
ending in blow overs. Much overrated as an antenna support.
Most balloons of the WX type cannot lift no. 12 antenna wire of a big
antenna, or lift it
Hi -
As I just finished K2 #5422 Control Board, and Front
Panel ( got good AOK resistance checks) - I'm
wondering
as I start on RF Board - just how much REWORK is it to
add NOISE BLANKER and SSB OPTION to my K2, after the
base K2 is completed?
Is it a major take-apart operation, to add these
Fred, N3CSY asked:
I'm wondering as I start on RF Board - just how much REWORK is it to add
NOISE BLANKER and SSB OPTION to my K2, after the base K2 is completed?
Is it a major take-apart operation, to add these options after the base K2
is up and running and all buttoned up in its case, etc.?
Pat, re-check your R30 voltages. You may have something associated with T5
and the rest of the VFO that is not soldered - an unsoldered connection may
work FB one day and fail the next.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
A week or so ago I contacted Gary about a problem with excessive
Bill,
I will give you an indirect, but more complete answer to your question:
All that information and more is in the KIO2 manual. If you have mislaid
your copy, Elecraft has all the current manuals availabe for download at
their website. The KIO2 Programmer's Reference may also be helpful to
Scott,
I have suspicions that most folks who upgrade the firmware keep the old one
'just in case', but actually, should something happen, Elecraft can get a
new copy of the firmware to you in 3 days or less by Priority Mail should
that prove to be necessary, so I have come to the conclusion that
W3FPR's answer (below) to S-meter settings triggered a question: The manual
says to set the AGC to 3.80 V, which I have done, but if I wanted to set it
for optimum receiver performance, as Don suggests, which way and how far
do I go?
I usually use the XG1 and check the S-meter with the
I love it. I have quite a few PICs of various types since I do a lot
of designing with them. Yet I, too, have a small collection of the
programmed microcontrollers that were upgraded. Why? Dunno...
But, if you cut off the legs (and file the stubs down), and drill a
small hole in one corner
Scott,
As the author of the firmware, I can assure you the best use of that
old K1 code is to flatten its pins and put it in a scrapbook, or maybe
turn it into a mobile, along with other electronic thingamabobs. (Along
this same line, PCBs make nice jewelry.)
Seriously, as Don mentioned,
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