Hi Gents,
First of all I believe it's wrong to talk about EU
customs: Italy makes the difference! Look here:
1) Back in oct 2004 my K2 kit plus options came from
Elecraft under codes 8525-2099-00 and 8529-9040-00.
Total amount US$ 1.719,03 (shipping and hand. $105
included). Italy customs changed
Wow !
I shall now stop complaining about the UK customs.
Maybe Elecraft should set up in the EU...
73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Thu, 15 Jun 2006 10:36:05 +0200 (CEST), Peppino Berria wrote:
Hi Gents,
First of all I believe it's wrong to talk about EU
customs: Italy makes the difference! Look here:
~~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
June 16 - July 17, 2006
~~
Summer FOX Hunt - QRP 20M CW
UTC: Every Fri, June 16 thru August 18, 0100z to 0229z
EDT: Every
Snip
Wow !
I shall now stop complaining about the UK customs.
Maybe Elecraft should set up in the EU...
73
Stewart G3RXQ
err Hate to tell you this Stewart!
http://www.qrpproject.de/UK/indexuk.html
regards John M0CDL..
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I just installed the 100 watt option in my basic K2(# 4472) and have no
use for the top copy with the KAT2 20w tuner and KIO2 rs-232 interface,
fully wired with speaker, etc. Price 190 plus shipping.
Jerry, N2UZ
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Post to:
When I got my first K2, I had to pay 10% of valve (~$75AUS) at the post
office before I could collect it. I was told this was applicable for all
imported items above $500AUS. When I got my second K2 earlier this year I
also expected to have to pay the same amount, but was informed by the local
On 15/06/06, Stewart Baker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Wow !
I shall now stop complaining about the UK customs.
Maybe Elecraft should set up in the EU...
You can buy Elecraft stuff in Germany: http://www.qrpproject.de/
It is a little more expensive than ordering from USA+shipping, but you
can at
Hi John,
The SteppIr housings are fiberglass and can be
purchased seperately. (I picked someones spare up to
play with at some point). They had a nice booth at
Dayton where you could see the internal parts in
action. It's a great idea for someone who wants an
all in one neat package. I bought one
Ireland would be a good bet from a tax standpoint I think ;-)
Larry N8LP
John wrote:
Snip
Wow !
I shall now stop complaining about the UK customs.
Maybe Elecraft should set up in the EU...
73
Stewart G3RXQ
err Hate to tell you this Stewart!
http://www.qrpproject.de/UK/indexuk.html
Ron AC7AC wrote:
There are two issues with ground-mounted verticals - either one that is
actually 1/4 wave long or one that uses traps to 'disconnect' the unneeded
length on the higher bands.
1) On the higher bands, the active portion of the antenna is that part
closest to the ground. So, on
Chris,
The K1 4 band board shares the low pass filter with 2 bands, so 80 and 40
meters as the lower band pair will not work because the 2nd harmonic energy
from 80 would not be attenuated by a LPF that will also pass 40 meter
signals. 40 and 30 meters work with the same LPF and 20 and 17 (or
I built, tested and installed KNB2 Noise Blanker,
in my K2 # 5422 - on 6 May 2006.
Still in the SWL mode, awaiting a stealth antenna, and
having gotten my K2 # 5422 aligned and KSB2 installed
- I've only practiced with using this
KNB2 Noise Blanker on noisy band (CW and SSB)
conditions.
The
I have built about 10 KX1's and the retaining screw for the paddle DOES
protrude through the anchor nut and in some cases strikes the circuit board,
preventing the paddle from being pulled up tight...Not everyone who buys a KX1
also buys the paddle, so it might not be encountered a lot, but I
I just ordered a K2/100 for use when I travel to Europe. I debated between a
K2 and the IC-7000. After having to repair my 756PROII and a $800 repair bill,
sort of soured me on non customer repairable rigs. I have a dozen boat
anchors of various manufacturers that are easlily (or sort of)
The way the K1 RF boards are designed, the 4 band one won't work on 80/40/30/20!
I have my 4 band board on 40/30/20/15 and an additional 2 band board for 160/80.
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message -
From: Krister Eriksson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday,
Geoff,
A half square antenna is also a phased pair of 'upside-down' verticals -
easy to get up if you have 2 supports just a bit more than 1/4 wave high and
a bit more than a half wavlength apart. Feed at the upper corner directly
with coax or with a parallel resonant tank at the lower end of
Because of the way the K1 4-band board is designed (2 bands share a set of
bandpass and lowpass filters (40/30 and 20/17) as opposed to the 2-band board
which can accept any two bands, since each has it's own set of filters) you can
not do as you describe. You can't get much more out of it than
Hi Paul,
I don't want to sound like a K2 bigot, but you could not be happier nor more
pleased with the external KAT-100 tuner. Aside from its physical size which
allows the K2 to sit on top of it using indented rubber feet for stability,
this tuner has the ability to tune quite a wide range
I have a SteppIR vertical, the one they call the BiggIR which tunes 40m
thru 6m. They work great in that they are always the correct length and
with options can track the radio dial, automatically adjusting the
physical length in small increments every 50 KHz. Unless you do
something really
During the last four years I have had four large orders from Elecraft
and do not recall paying any Duty. I have paid VAT on all orders 17.5%
and noticed that if I pay by PayPal the exchange rate USD/GBP is the
best in the money market - recently as high as 1.84USD to 1.0GBP. To
purchase in
I am hoping I can induce some nice person to spend some time explaining the K2
AGC circuit to me. I've been trying to tweak the AGC threshold potentiometer,
and in the process trying to learn about this circuit.
From the datasheet of the MC1350P it looks like pin 5, the AGC control
voltage,
Peppino Berria wrote:
First of all I believe it's wrong to talk about EU
customs: Italy makes the difference!
I think I have the ultimate customs story. It happened in Israel in the
early '80's. A fellow was bringing in a tape containing software from
the IBM SHARE organization. These
Paul,
I have had both the LDG and the Elecraft ATUs. For my money I would
chose
the Elecraft KAT100. The KAT100 in the standard casing is low profile and is
a great unit. I used that setup here for quite a while and then opted to put
the KPA100 and KAT100 in an EC2 case (know in the
Hi,
i would like to place my KAT100 antenna tuner closer to my endfeeded
antenna. The distance between K2 and KAT100 would be about 10 m.
This is a critical length for the communication on AUX bus ?
73 de Joerg (DL3QQ)
___
Elecraft
Don,
You are quite right about how easy it is to put up a Half Square, and it is
quite a forgiving antenna as far as dimensions are concerned, although
symmetry seems to be important. When they were up I fed each of my 40m Half
Squares at its corner using the outside braid of the feeder as
Bruce Bowman wrote:
This antenna, and I'm confident any 1/4 wave vertical, is very
sensitive to grounding. I've had to mount mine on the roof, and the
vertical doesn't like being mounted up there (13' up in our case with
the radials are layed out on our flat roof). I was warned by Fluid
Motion
A response to my earlier post regarding the knurled screw on the KXPD1 paddle
suggests that a proper nut be threaded onto the screw before cutting it, then
back the nut off, thereby cleaning up the threads...Yes, this is a time honored
method of chasing a damaged thread, and is used on many of
Joerg,
As I recall, the maximum recommended cable distance is less than a meter.
Yes, the critical parameter is the AUXBUS signalling - excessive signalling
delays will cause problems.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2006-06/msg00464.html
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You can't get much more out of it than what is
described on the elecraft site.
Except that, rather than supporting 40/30/20m plus either 17 OR 15 meters, the
KFL1-4 filter board is actually a little more versatile. As supplied, it
supports 40/30m, plus ANY TWO of 20m, 17m, or 15m.
I don't
Thank You all OM for answering my Question..
--
Krister Eriksson
Ringduvegatan 23
724 70 Västerås
[Hamradio: SM5KRI]
[ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ]
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Am 15. Jun 2006, um 10:36:05 schrieb Peppino Berria:
Hi Gents,
First of all I believe it's wrong to talk about EU
customs: Italy makes the difference! Look here:
1) Back in oct 2004 my K2 kit plus options came from
Elecraft under codes 8525-2099-00 and 8529-9040-00.
Total amount US$ 1.719,03
I picked up a used C22 last night. Had one years ago and remember it
fondly. So, partly for old time's sake, I got another. I hooked it up
next to the K2 and began tuning around.
Wow, was 40 meters alive with signals. The lower end of the band was
packed. I narrowed the C22's audio filter
On my K2's NB (KNB2, May 2006) - It seems no matter
what type of random, or periodic band noise is present
- activating the KNB2 doesn't affect the noise
in any fashion? It doesn't get louder, or quieter,
or no noise goes away, and noise doesn't get any
better.
So I guess, besides the OK
Darrell,
If you look again at the MC1350 spec sheet you should see 2 graphs - first
is the gain reduction Vs. AGC voltage and the second is Noise Figure vs.
Gain Reduction. I would believe the results of these 2 graphs combined are
part of what you are observing. As you increase the gain, the
Darwin, Keith wrote:
QSK in the C22 is not as good as the K2. The C22 gives thumps and
pops
in the headphones and speaker during QSK. K2 is far smoother and
quieter.
I am surprised! Ten Tec is known for QSK rigs.
Perhaps some aging components are in need of service.
Certainly, it is
Minor scratches are OK. This material melts and fills the gaps between
the PA transistors and the heatsink as the devices heat up the first
couple of times. (That is one of the reasons we require tightening of
the transistor mounting screws after a initial short period of use.)
73, Eric
You need to use a tuner between your antenna and the radio to avoid the
radio cutting back power to protect itself from high SWR.
You might want to try measurements without the unknown balun. They might
be better! Don't get hung up on the need for balun without trying without
first. I did
I sure have enjoyed this thread on high end paddles. I have so far mostly used
just a straight key, but with my new K2 and it's built in keyer I would like
to give iambic operation another go.
I had a Heathkit uMatic keyer, model SA-5010, with the capacitive touch
paddles. Had lots of trouble
Darrell Bellerive wrote:
That seems to run contradictory to what I read in this thread and on eHam. So,
do those of you who have used both the BY-1 and Hex Paddle agree with
Bencher's views? Is the BY-1 really better for those using a light touch?
I tend to be a bit heavy-handed with the
Darrell Bellerive wrote:
Reading the Bencher web site it suggests that the BY-1 series is better for
those using a light touch than the Hex Paddle, which is for those more used
to a bug.
I'll put it this way: the BY-1 is *only* good if you have a light
touch! The Hex Key will work fine
I have the BY-1 the Hex Key.
I use a light touch on both.
Tried a heavy touch with the Bencher. It's hard for me to imagine
slapping it
around enough to mess things up. That's some heavy use!
Just my opinion.
73,
Tony W7GO
Vic K2VCO wrote:
Darrell Bellerive wrote:
Reading the Bencher web
I just got a elecraft hexkey and I'm trying to decide which I like better,
my profi or the hexkey.
Greg
AB7R
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Vic K2VCO
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 9:38 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] High
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