Hi Don,
Problem solved! Before opening the rig, I inspected the Power Pole
connections and found that one of the negative pole connectors was loose
internally and not making contact. I replaced it with a new connector and
all is fine.
Thanks for the insight.
72/73
John
WI2C
-Original
Larry,
The null will be sharp, so try to find it again tuning very slowly.
I suspect your real problem is either with the winding and stripping of T1.
Check that carefully even if it means removing it to check the lead
stripping. Be certain the wire colors are correct - leads 2 and 4 should be
Scott,
First - There is no association of the voltmeter probe and the frequency
counter - they use different headers and different circuits.
Now for your voltmeter problem - do you have the jumper on the 3 pin header
at the top of the Control Board? In one position, it will display the
internal
John,
Glad to hear it was that easy. Unfortunately, we very often overlook that
sort of thing and do not suspect the inteconnection cables and their
associated connectors. It is good to verify power cables and those short
coax cables on a routine basis. They often cause 'strange happenings'.
That was my first thought as well. Maybe the ground side of the
power jack has some how broken loose in side the rig. If it won't power up
with a good power supply and the cable is ok, then I would look inside the
rig.
Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
-Original
Well, this is a testament to not working while your tired. I have leads
1 and 2 swapped on T1.
This is why I like this forum so much. You made me go back and check
something I had already checked three times. Now I get to remove and
re-do T1!
Thanks Don,
73
Larry
kb5dxy
Be certain the
I have a K1-4 and love it.
I decided I wanted 80 meters and now I can not decide between
a K1-2 or a KX1 80/30? Abouit the same price.
I won't go backpacking but I like the idea of 2 different radios.
Also I likw the idea of 2 same radios for maintenance???
Help
Ron
Is the connector on the K-2 end of your power cable an original Elecraft
connector?...If it is an after market replacement, the outer sleeve, which is
power supply ground, might not be the right diameter and is not making contact
with the wiper type ground contact inside J-3, the 12 volt input
I might be reading something into this issue that is not there...I get the
impression that there are some folks who believe that once the soldering iron
is hot and you clean and tin the tip, that is the only time it needs to be
done, and if you need to clean and tin it more than once, something
Ron,
I have both the K1-2 and the KX1. The KX1 is working
great with the autotuner and the plug in paddle. Have
the 80/30 kit to build but it may have to wait awhile.
My comment is that I will keep both for now but really
like the KX1 better because of it's great receiver
that has the RF Gain
Darn it, now I wanna build a KX-1.
I've been thinking about it on and off for a few months but haven't
been able to really decide for sure...
My comment is that I will keep both for now but really
like the KX1 better because of it's great receiver
that has the RF Gain Control, the
K1-4, KAT1 serial 2269 is now complete and calibrated.
This would have been a lot more difficult without the great people on
this forum and great support from Gary at Elecraft.
I hooked up a 100' wire stretched across a couple of low trees to see
how the KAT1 tunes up.
3.6 to 1 on 40m
2.6
I just recently purchased, and am trying to use the Heil K2 Pro
Headset with my K2. I am getting reports of fuzzy audio when running at 100w
(KPA-100) or with the amplifier (600w).
I get good reports when I use the Heil MD2 desk mic. The problem
appears only when using the Heil
Hello all,
Well I'm almost finished pimping-out my KX1. I have to finish the
12v-1.5ah internal battery modification, but that's about it. I plan to
add a very nice Li-Po 3-cell protection module PCB and a battery gas
gauge PCB in my KX1. Then I'm out of room in the KX1!
I am in the process of putting together the Elecraft KX1. I have done a few
kits before (SWL rigs etc.)but would not be considered a great builder. I have
been working on the kit as time permits for the past weekand I have to say
that so far it is going great. The Elecraft directions are
One thing that I'm finding a problem is I'm running through all the
voltage checks in the receiver. They're all really low. But other than
the one reference to the BFO possibly being set incorrectly, (its not)
there is not one hint anywhere as to what the cause might be. So, I
have an
Sort of a abstract question from a newbi..has any one gone through the K1 or
KX1 compomet by componet and asked if this is the best
capacitor/coil/resistor/crystal/transistor (with in the same price range) to
optimize the transceivers ?? I mean run the numbers and such ??
Bob
My other hobby is R/C planes and I've been monitoring the hourly sales
for r/c products. Currently, between 4:00pm and 5:00pm cst there is a
20amp power supply for $47.
I don't know a thing about the supply and I have no affiliation with
Hobby Lobby but thought I would pass it on.
Bob,
Considerations like those that you ask about are indeed done - but they are
done at design time, not after the fact. Every designer/engineer is
responsible for evaluating the price to performance ratio for everything in
his design, and is also responsible for making the design perform
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
In the meantime, let me say that smoke can make things easier.
My Elmer Art, W6RMK, told a 13 yr-old new novice that A small fire in
one corner of the chassis almost always makes finding the problem
easier. Especially if only one component actually caught fire.
Fred
Hey
Can anyone tell me if a Turner 350 hand mic will work with a K2,
before I got to the trouble of wiring it.
Thanks
Scott N5SM
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