Hello All,
Just signed in to say a big thank you to Don Wilhelm
for all his help over the last few weeks. I have
completed K2 No 5914 and could not have done so
without Don's great patience and skill. Also a thank
you to all at Elecraft, I have never come across such
excellent service before, it
Hello,
Radio Shack has, or had a couple of very nice little part 15 FM
xmtr's. One had a choice of three preset frequencies, and the more
expensive one could be set for any freq in the FM BC band..
Vy 73/72
de
Wayne K9D
k9di (at) k9di (dot) org
You are quite welcome Trev. Enjoy the K2.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
Hello All,
Just signed in to say a big thank you to Don Wilhelm
for all his help over the last few weeks. I have
completed K2 No 5914 and could not have done so
without Don's great patience and skill. Also
Hi All,
I’ve just picked up 5 x 12v new sealed lead acid batteries (7Ah) at the
local Hamfest with a view to using them as a portable supply for my K2 (in
the upcoming John Moyle Field Day ).
I’ve wired these in parallel, but was just curious whether anyone has any
recommendations
David,
The old timers used to use feedthru insulators to make a balanced line
antenna connection thru walls - I don't know where to obtain those old large
ceramic feedthrus anymore, but you can substitute with some other type of
insulator - space your improvised feedthrus 3 to 4 inches apart, use
Why not put up a Windom, which is an off-center fed dipole? It does require
a 4:1 balun, but it is coax fed and works very well on both odd and even
harmonics. I use two 40 meter Windoms, crossed for complementary coverage
and fed separately. They work well on all bands (even 80 in a pinch)
Thanks for the nice words. Rereading the page this morning, I found a
couple small errors that are now fixed, and I added an image of the
Steward ferrite bead response curve from the data sheet.
The page is http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/bypassing.htm
Jack K8ZOA
So, is there a way of getting a balanced feedline from my antenna
to my balanced antenna tuner through steel?
I'm about to try something I've heard about, but never done myself: use
parallel lengths of coax with the shields connected but not grounded.
This is supposed to provide 'safe
Hi Ken,
I'm an avid contester with my K2s (as are several
others) and I use them with N1MM.
RIT - In my entire 33-year ham career I have never
felt the need for RIT (and XIT even less). Not
exactly a complaint (it's probably just me) but to me
the RIT control takes up a lot of real estate on a
I see the Elecraft QSO Party is coming up... Where are
the rules?
Cheers,
Julius
n2wn
My earlier post on power reduction... I am using a
KAT100 or KAT2 with my K2s. So my observations were
based on that, and not valid for (OK, downright wrong)
for a bare bones rig ;o)
My soldering station which is an off-brand has bitten the dust so I'm
looking for a new, name-brand, IC-safe, temp controlled tip station. Any
recommendations for model...Hakko or Weller? I'm hoping to keep my
expenditure to $125 or less.
Need to get the solder heated up back on the DSP
On the 160M module, toroid L1 .I managed to burn off
just a little too much enamel insulator from 26ga.
wire.Bare copper into the 1st 1/2 turn on the
toroid. Am I o.k.? Or should I rewind?
Hi Larry,
If you're in a bind with the wire (not enough to
finish the job), you can use some
I finished the K2 the days before ARRL contest, time to build a 10m
higt antena, no traps and no coil in the base, all the job for the ATU
inside K2. The keyer was the built in in the K2, no CT, i want to check
all the K2, not only the radio part, so Fast play ant all the other
features was
I've been very pleased with Hakko 936, to the point where I bought two
stations so I didn't have to keep switching between the macro and micro
irons.
Jack K8ZOA
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My soldering station which is an off-brand has bitten the dust so I'm
looking for a new, name-brand,
My soldering station which is an off-brand has bitten the dust so I'm
looking for a new, name-brand, IC-safe, temp controlled tip station. Any
recommendations for model...Hakko or Weller? I'm hoping to keep my
expenditure to $125 or less.
I have a pair of Hakko 936 and use them for
I'll add my endorsement of the Hakko 936. I like being able to change tip
temperatures in a couple of seconds with the twist of a knob.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 8:22 AM
To:
I used a Weller WES51, and was pleased with it. Variable temperature,
ESD-safe and mine was $99 I think. Lots of tips available most
anywhere...
-Jeff
On 2/20/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My soldering station which is an off-brand has bitten the dust so I'm
looking for a new,
I'm getting a lot of endorsements for the Hakko soldering station. If I
buy one of these, I'm thinking I'll get a couple of additional tips. It
comes with the 900M-T-1.6D tip. Your recommendations for additional
tips???
73 de K5AVJ, Lynn
___
While I like my Edsyn 951SX bought on special sale, now a bit pricey,
I think most Weller or Hakko are excellent.
Eg., Hakko model 936-11 is $89.98 at Tequipment
de Joe, aa4nn
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Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a
David
You didn't mention what kind of openings, if any, already exist in
the shed walls.
Two things you can do.
1. Put a gradual twist in the feedline, say one revolution every
six feet or so. This evens out the unbalancing due to the nearness
of the metal shed.
2. Where you do find an
Don and all:
An assortment of ceramic feedthrus are still available at Surplus
Sales of Nebraska.
(Note: I have no financial interest in the company. I'm merely a
happy customer.)
73,
Steve Kercel
AA4AK
At 09:06 AM 2/20/2007, Don Wilhelm wrote:
David,
The old timers used to use
David
I have an upstairs shack with a balanced feeder needing to pass through
a brick wall into the shack. I have a balun mounted on the outside wall
of the shack, hole drilled in the wall to take the feeder and a metre of
feeder to the K2. I use a 4:1 voltage balun in a plastic project box,
Thanks Dave, your comment reminded me of L B Cebik's recommendation - which
is to run coax through the shack wall and place a 1:1 current balun on the
outside to feed the balanced line.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
I have an upstairs shack with a balanced feeder needing to pass
On Tuesday 20 February 2007 10:50, J F wrote:
RIT - In my entire 33-year ham career I have never
felt the need for RIT (and XIT even less).
I use it all the time - when people call me they're
nearly always off my frequency and outside the narrow
filters' passbands. Not everyone has an
RIT - In my entire 33-year ham career I have never
felt the need for RIT (and XIT even less).
I use it all the time - when people call me they're
nearly always off my frequency and outside the narrow
filters' passbands.
When I call CQ in a contest I open up the filter a bit to allow for
That's were I use SPLIT. That lets me tune the receiver using the big knob
without changing the transmit frequency. Whenever I need to move my transmit
freq, I just tune to where I want it to be and tap A=B. Then I can go on
tuning the receiver using the main tuning knob.
That's a legacy of
Even simpler is a 80m dipole fed with balanced line to a tuner for all band
use. The window line is less costly than coax. A good quality tuner is
less lossy in multiband use than coax/ tuner balun, etc.. Balanced antennas
have fewer problems than off center feeds. Balanced line to dipole does
Although none of us (AFAIK) are allowed access to the
control firmware source, its action is well specified and
effectively forms an Application Programming Interface.
It would be possible to put the K2 into a bigger box,
remove the front panel and wire up a custom microcontroller
to all the
Why reinvent the wheel. Elecraft has put the functionality into the unit by
adding the K2 command set using the RS232 port. I do all you want and more
using HRD (Ham Radio Deluxe) via a great control screen on my computer. All
I do with the K2 is dust it once a week.
Gregg, W9DHI
K2 # 3075
Obviously, tapping A=B is faster, easier and probably more accurate in the
rush of a contest situation.
Except when I forgot to tap :-)
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude
- Original Message -
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent:
I went the more economical $24.95 Circuit Specialists
Inc. route - and bought like 5 extra tips, for the K2
build. I had new tips, and a new soldering station -
and the build went very well - and I think all of my
solder joints were super (IMHO). I'm not one to
invest tons in a soldering iron -
You too?
And there's all the times in years past I forgot to turn on the TX high
voltage, throw the antenna switch...
They're never gonna design a rig so smart I can't get it wrong somehow!
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: Bob Tellefsen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday,
On Tuesday 20 February 2007 17:48, you wrote:
Why reinvent the wheel. Elecraft has put the functionality into the unit by
adding the K2 command set using the RS232 port. I do all you want and more
using HRD (Ham Radio Deluxe) via a great control screen on my computer. All
I do with the K2
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
That's were I use SPLIT. That lets me tune the receiver using the big knob
without changing the transmit frequency. Whenever I need to move my transmit
freq, I just tune to where I want it to be and tap A=B. Then I can go on
tuning the receiver using the main tuning knob.
Rig control software for people who use real computers (Fedora Core
here). http://www.hamsoftware.org/ Haven't used it, but saw your
comment and did a quick google. This is the first one I ran across, may
be others. Are you on Mac or Linux? Because there were quite a few
choices for Mac
You might want to look at an Xytronic ESD 137. It has all the bells and
whistles, quick change temp with lock, LCD readout, calibrate and a very
comfortable pencil. ESD safe also. It's definitely a professional station and
on sale for $99 at HowardElectronics.com. I have no relationship
On Tuesday 20 February 2007 18:19, you wrote:
Rig control software for people who use real computers (Fedora Core
here). http://www.hamsoftware.org/ Haven't used it, but saw your
comment and did a quick google. This is the first one I ran across, may
be others. Are you on Mac or Linux?
On February 20, 2007 02:17 pm, rohre wrote:
Even simpler is a 80m dipole fed with balanced line to a tuner for all band
use.
Perhaps simpler, but not necessarily a good solution.
The window line is less costly than coax.
Usually.
A good quality tuner is
less lossy in multiband use than
Stuart wrote:
Even simpler is a 80m dipole fed with balanced line to a tuner for all band
use. The window line is less costly than coax. A good quality tuner is
less lossy in multiband use than coax/ tuner balun, etc.. Balanced antennas
have fewer problems than off center feeds. Balanced line
On February 20, 2007 02:39 pm, Ian Stirling wrote:
Although none of us (AFAIK) are allowed access to the
control firmware source, its action is well specified and
effectively forms an Application Programming Interface.
It would be possible to put the K2 into a bigger box,
remove the front
I always advise using a non-resonant length for a multi-band doublet with
tuner combination. There's a magic figure: multiples of 44ft, 88ft... that
Cebik came up with which is a good compromise with impedance matching, ie
not horrendously high or low X and R. I notice no-one has mentioned
Having fun learning to operate my recently built K2 #5654. It's a great
rig!
While setting up the scan functions, I notice that the MHz decimal
point flashes when in scan mode, as was stated in some of the
literature that I read. However, in normal mode (not scanning) there is
no MHz decimal
I wonder how many of us that play the OS slander/cute names game would
participate in the CB versus Ham slander/cute names game on a list devoted to
discussions of Operating systems?
73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
QRP IRC channel, Drake
Ian Stirling wrote:
And I don't use Windoze.
I use doors. ;)
73 de Larry W2LJ
--
73 de Larry W2LJ
QRP - When you care to use the very least!
http://www.w2lj.qrpradio.com
http://w2lj.blogspot.com/
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to:
Guys - Let's not go there.
Thanks!
Eric WA6HHQ
Elecraft list moderator.
-
Thom LaCosta wrote:
I wonder how many of us that play the OS slander/cute names game would
participate in the CB versus Ham slander/cute names game on a list
devoted to
discussions of Operating systems?
I just got a Xytronic Auto-temp 136 ESD which I'm already quite fond
of. Uses same tips as Hakko, but only cost (If I recall) 70.00 from
Circuit Specialists.
No connection, just a satisfied customer.
73,
John AI4JH
Joe-baa4nn wrote:
While I like my Edsyn 951SX bought on special sale, now
Mike Morrow wrote:
What these types of
antennas show is that, no matter how bad an antenna design is, it'll
work sometimes. TANSTAAFL!
Has anyone seen the Illuminator from Tom Schiller, N6BT, of Force 12 fame?
Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7
-
Please join us for the annual Elecraft QSO party, 1500Z March 10
(Saturday) to 1500Z March 11 (Sunday). It's open to everyone -- no
Elecraft rig required. The goal of the contest is to have fun, work old
and new friends, work new S/P/C's (States/Provinces/Countries) for
awards, and optionally
All,
I'm debugging what appears to be a self-oscillation issue, i.e.,
several smoked components, in my KPA100. Doing this I've discovered
that it's a minor annoyance to solder and unsolder the speaker wire to
get unencumbered access to the board. I know I can leave it unsoldered
till I'm all
In a message dated 2/20/07 5:18:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Even simpler is a 80m dipole fed with balanced line to a tuner for all band
use. The window line is less costly than coax. A good quality tuner is
less lossy in multiband use than coax/ tuner balun,
I use a traditional wide-range balanced tuner - the same circuit Cebik shows
and that has been a Hamshack staple item among some of us since Marconi was
around. Center link, split stator variable, and feeders tapped onto the
coil.
With that tuner feedline length has never been an issue at all.
On Feb 20, 2007, at 3:32 PM, Ian Stirling wrote:
On Tuesday 20 February 2007 18:19, you wrote:
Rig control software for people who use real computers (Fedora Core
here). http://www.hamsoftware.org/ Haven't used it, but saw your
comment and did a quick google. This is the first one I ran
I am very much enjoying reading the discussions on wire antennas. I
have something I have been trying to figure out how to do for some time,
and thought this might be a good place to ask.
I have an 80m loop, up about 60 or 70 feet. Currently it is fed with
300 ohm line. All I could find at
Dave,
As far as switching your loop to a 160 top loaded vertical, yes you can do
it remotely with relays and a matching network. If your goal is efficiency
on 160 meters, the relay switching os only a small part of the equation -
you must have a good RF ground for the vertical to work against,
So tempting... I haven't fiddled with Linux in a few years and might be
able to scrounge up a PC to run it on (I think all I'm missing for a
working system amongst the parts I have is a power supply).
Bob Nielsen wrote:
On Feb 20, 2007, at 3:32 PM, Ian Stirling wrote:
On Tuesday 20 February
Have you tried using the antenna on 160 through a tuner just as it is?
Chances are you can match it even on 160M and if you do you will not have to
worry about the ground losses you would have feeding it against ground
(unless using lots of radials).
Don K7FJ
- Original Message -
Aloha to all,
I joined this list a month ago to ask a question about an xv222 that had
a bad crystal. Since then, the most fascinating threads abound here
most, stretching far from Elecraft matters. Cool!
I would like to state that I am no expert to balanced feed lines but
reading here, I must
When I built my K1 back in 2002 (serial 1154), I opted to use the
supplied 68 pF capacitor at C2. I found the drift figures worse than the
specification and changed the NP0 ceramic capacitor for a polystyrene
one. The drift was just under 200 Hz per hour, while meeting
specification (just) it
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