On the topic of comparing radios...
I've found that one must be careful on how the comparison is done.
You'll get a far better reading if you can hold everything constant
except for the rig under test.
I'll feed a single antenna to both rigs through an antenna switch
(maybe) and then send the
And I might add Perception is 98% of reality G And that is true no
matter what the meters or instruments say.
73,
Don W3FPR
Darwin, Keith wrote:
On the topic of comparing radios...
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You
I worked 4X4BL on 40M last night before midnight EDT here in OH
using the DSP on receive. It was indispensable. QRM was high and
the 4X4 was unreadable without it.
I've read before that DSP was not useful on SSB...worked for me.
John
AB8O
___
One thing I do miss is the beat cancel on my Kenwood. Does the DSP
offer this sort of capability?
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
John Wiener wrote:
I worked 4X4BL on 40M last night before midnight EDT here in OH using
the DSP on receive. It was indispensable. QRM was high
Brett,
Yes, the Kenwood TS-820 was a single conversion transceiver that
implemented IF shift.
To have IF shift in a single conversion receiver it is necessary to
change both the VFO and BFO together in synch (and in the proper
direction). I believe it could have been done in the K2
In a message dated 10/04/2007 09:08:37 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
bob [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi would you please forward this to the guy who has the k2 for sale and
forward him my e mail address please..Regards Dave.
___
Yes.
Bob, N7XY
K2 #3273
On Apr 10, 2007, at 5:33 AM, David Wilburn wrote:
One thing I do miss is the beat cancel on my Kenwood. Does the
DSP offer this sort of capability?
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
John Wiener wrote:
I worked 4X4BL on 40M last night before midnight
Great, thanks. I almost ordered that yesterday. It is next on the list
though.
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
Bob Nielsen wrote:
Yes.
Bob, N7XY
K2 #3273
On Apr 10, 2007, at 5:33 AM, David Wilburn wrote:
One thing I do miss is the beat cancel on my Kenwood. Does the DSP
During the initial tests (from the right side of page 21 in the KPA100
manual) on U1 pin 3 - ground, I measured just under 4k as opposed to
the 10k.
I pulled out the schematic and checked pins 3 and 4 of the R-pack, and
they measured correctly. When I checked Q11, I read a bit over 100 ohms
Dave,
Yes, that is not good - you need a new 2N7000. Those FETs are quite
sensitive to static and likely became zapped at some point.
Send a note to Elecraft ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) and request a new one.
73,
Don W3FPR
David Wilburn wrote:
During the initial tests (from the right side of page
I'm trying to set up a remote radio location with solar power.
Does anyone have current info on the best solar panels and charger?
Frank W7is
** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
___
Elecraft mailing
Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through the
manuals on the Elecraft site. I've been thinking about building either a K2
or K1. I've read some of the magazine articles that state that the K2 is not
a beginners kit and I have read other sources that state
Hi Gary,
As you have had some kit building experience in the past I don't think you
should have any problems with the K2. The instrucion manual is a very complete
and understandable Heathkit style manual. Just take your time and follow the
instructions and you'll have a very rewarding
I run my Elecraft K1 at home off of four Siemens 55 watt panels. I use
a 30 amp charge controller which feed six golf cart batteries that are 6
volts each at 200 amp-hr. I have them wired in three pairs go give 12
vdc at 600 amp-hr. The panels and the batteries are now 12 years old
and
I think you may have answered your own question. The K1 isn't a prerequisite
to the K2, though I believe some of the skills I learned building my K1 paid
off while building my K2. There's no reason a person couldn't learn those
skills building a K2, though. If you don't want a K1 AND a K2, then
Gary, I can't claim to be a beginner but I know a lot of beginners have
done it.
It's really quite simple if you follow the manual and take the build one
part at a time. I don't know what you built in the 80's but I've found that
good kits, like the Elecraft rigs, have become easier to build
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:
Thanks everyone for all of the positive responses. I think I'm going to order
a K2 and give it a go!
Gary, N7HTS
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr.
Depends on what you want it for.
If you bare thinking about a new all-mode, all-band rig, I'd certainly
choose the K2, 160 meter and SSB add-ons. Maybe even the 100 watt model.
If you are interested in QRP, a pack rig, CW only, and you can cope with
just having 40-15 (4 band) or changing
Page 21 of the KPA100 document (version D). In the initial tests, right
column, second row from the bottom of the table;
AF pad (measure from bottom), ground10k
What is the AF pad? I assume I am supposed to measure it from the
bottom of the board, to ground, and it is to be greater than
K1 or K2 or Elecraft?
I built the K2 #54xx last spring. Went very well,
soldering skills came back quickly - from my
previous ham Heathkit days ..
One thing I would strongly recommend, although not
necessary - is to buy the PRE-BUILT TOROIDS, from the
Toroid Man Mike. He's listed on
On Apr 10, 2007, at 4:48 , David Wilburn wrote:
Page 21 of the KPA100 document (version D). In the initial tests,
right column, second row from the bottom of the table;
AF pad (measure from bottom), ground10k
What is the AF pad? I assume I am supposed to measure it from
the bottom
Thanks much.
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
Lamb, Dick Judy wrote:
On Apr 10, 2007, at 4:48 , David Wilburn wrote:
Page 21 of the KPA100 document (version D). In the initial tests,
right column, second row from the bottom of the table;
AF pad (measure from bottom),
N8S is on 21.295, listening 5 up. Begging for contacts. I made it with 5W SSB.
John
k7up
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
I have an Elecraft MD2 mic w/PTT footswitch for sale.
Price is $75 plus shipping. This mic is no longer
sold by Elecraft and is in excellent condition with
original box. Pic on request. Email off Reflector.
Mark - W5EZY
Grenada, MS
FB Leigh. They were bored on 15SSB so they went to 14.190 and I
worked them there, also with 5W. They got bored on 20M and went back
to 15M, and I can still here them well in southern NM.
73, john
At 04:03 PM 10/04/07, you wrote:
John,
Thanks...I set up the rig as a result of your message.
and I can still here them well in southern NM.
and I can hear them well too.
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
One thing I would strongly recommend, although not
necessary - is to buy the PRE-BUILT TOROIDS
I second this motion. Well at least the part that says it's not necessary.
:-)
I agree that if you're advanced in years and have trouble manipulating small
objects you might find winding torroids to
I agree, if we're talking about toroids and not those dreaded overheated
torroids G.
I wind my own but, as Craig says, some builders get frustrated doing the
turns count, stripping the enamel off properly, etc. For them Michael's
service is invaluable. For anyone who wants to shave an hour or so
Hello,
I finally found my RIGblaster plus unit but I can't find my book.
Just playing around with the RIGblaster I can receive via the sound card
with out any problems. I placed the K2 into VOX and I go to transmit and all
seems fine but it does not send anything. Then I tell the unit to
30 matches
Mail list logo
