Joel,
You first must set the 'DISPLAY' to the S-meter mode - then:
The Lnn parameter is set for no bars with no signal (antenna
disconnected), and the Hn parameter is set to adjust the high level end.
If you have a signal generator with a 50 uV output level (like the
Elecraft XG1 or XG2), you
Toroids - to wind or buy.
Either approach is absolute fine. They are apparently very windable by
the average bear. In my case, I tried to wind one. It was very ugly
and no fun.
Mychael's work is very nice. The toroids look good, evenly spaced and
nicely stripped and tinned. For me there is
Ron Polityka wrote:
Hello,
I finally found my RIGblaster plus unit but I can't find my book.
Just playing around with the RIGblaster I can receive via the sound card
with out any problems. I placed the K2 into VOX and I go to transmit and
all
seems fine but it does not send anything. Then I
I had an R4c and T4xb? with added 160 meter crystals.
I cant say I liked it much, they had an odd tuning setup,
and I thought it was crazy to mix transistors and IC chips
in with the tube circuits they way they did,
in high voltage points and in line with the tubes.
Look at the R4C schematic and
Well here comes the probably-stupid-question-of-the-day:
After nearly 90 minutes on the NAQCC sprint last night - sending and
answering dozens of calls, some from pretty strong signals - without a
single contact, I gotta wonder if the problem is on my end.
How can I tell if my carrier is on the
Tom,
I believe you asked the right question.
Assuming that your filters are set so you do hear a signal at the
sidetone pitch on both CW and CWr, do the following - (if not, you
should do the whole filter setting task - see the 3rd paragraph below).
To see if your filters are set to the
Brett gazdzinski wrote:
I had an R4c and T4xb? with added 160 meter crystals.
I cant say I liked it much, they had an odd tuning setup,
and I thought it was crazy to mix transistors and IC chips
in with the tube circuits they way they did,
in high voltage points and in line with the tubes.
Hi Don,
Thanks for your reply.
If you have any pull with the manual writer, you might suggest they add this
procedure to it. I never would have guessed, for instance, that I must set
the L parameter first. H and L weren't mentioned in the procedure on page
65. And also, the first thing you see
On Wed, 11 Apr 2007, ron wrote:
The Drake line made very good radios in their day and they are still popular
and work well under trying conditions.
Google Drake and you will find a wealth of info, more so than any other
American made brand in their day.
www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/
and of
Joel,
Yes, it does take several trial integrations to find out what number works.
73,
Don W3FPR
Joel Weder wrote:
Hi Don,
Thanks for your reply.
If you have any pull with the manual writer, you might suggest they add this
procedure to it. I never would have guessed, for instance, that I
-
I have an Elecraft MD2 mic w/PTT footswitch for
sale.
Price is $75 plus shipping. This mic is no longer
sold by Elecraft and is in excellent condition with
original box. Pic on request. Email off Reflector.
Mark - W5EZY
Grenada, MS
Hi Joel,
I'm the guilty party. Strangely, no one has pointed out the minimal nature of
these instructions before. Good catch!
I've added this to the list of future KX1 manual improvements. Let me know if
you find anything else.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
___
Hi Don, Mike, et al.
Thanks for the advice.
Using spectrogram I checked filter alignment for all filters and then
reworked them all. Now, the DAC for each of the filters in CW is BELOW the
center frequency and the DAC for each of the filters in CWR is ABOVE the
center frequency.
However, when
As I tune up the band (to higher frequencies) on 40, the pitch of the
received signal goes up. On the 820, the pitch goes DOWN as I tune up the
band.
This info won't be of help, but for *any* sideband receiver:
If the received signal's pitch INcreases when tuning UPward, the receiver is in
Tom,
Since I don't know about the dial calibration accuracy on your TS-820S
even though it may have been factory calibrated, and I haven't
investigated the high side/low side injection scheme for its mixer and
product detector, I cannot comment on the dial reading comparison. I do
ask one
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Should your filters/BFOs need changed, I recommend you use Spectrogram
to give a visual display of your filter passbands.
FWIW: I've found that the waterfall display in MMTTY or MixW is easier
for me when doing the CAL FIL. No markers, but the display is much
crisper for
I haven't got too far in isolating it but,
I get an intermittent drop in audio...seems like a drop in
sensitivity, too. Drop outs last a few seconds and seem spaced
completely randomly.
Seems like a loss of RF to the unit.
I have two antennae (the second just installed). I may have an
One good source is http://www.sunelco.com/
They have an execellent catalog/how-to manual you can
order.
72 de N8PVZ
---bernie gaffney
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm trying to set up a remote radio location with
solar power.
Does anyone have current info on the best solar
John,
Do check the antenna - if it has an intermittent, you will hear
something like you described.
To check for an audio only problem, tune in some steady signal (make
certain there is no QSB) and watch the S-meter. If the S-meter changes
in sync with the change in audio, then the problem
I second Bernie's message ...
I have an RV outfitted with 12A of solar panels, 480 AH
of golf-cart batteries, a windmill and a 1500W inverter, all
purchased ... in person ... from Sunelco's Montana branch.
Nice helpful folks, and the catalog's great.
We live in this RV for six months each
Hi
I still have my solar controller kits for sale. There are two versions. A
low power version good up to 40 watts and a high power version for up to 200
watts. The controller kit is an analog design that does not generate any RF
noise. The kit comes with a silk screened and solder masked
Hello,
Thanks for the replies on the PSK31.
I had the RIGblaster Plus running my K2 before I moved 4 years ago. I
finally found the unit tucked away in a box that I thought had only manuals
in it.
Anyway, I got the RIGblaster Plus up and running with my K2 on PTT. I am
using the DX4WIN
Hi Roger,
Well, I work for the Wyoming DOT and I make maps for the highway
projects around the state! Hi! I'm also a professional artist in my
spare time doing mostly portraits.
Ok on all the gear. I have a Ten Tec Argonaut V, a Ten Tec Century 22
and a Kenwood TS-530SP. The reason I'm
Anyone have any idea what sort of diodes
would work best in the swr bridge of a high power
antenna tuner?
What is normally used, fast switching or what?
Thanks for any info,
Brett
N2DTS
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You
Hi Dale!
Where have you been? I assume you have a K2 or one of the other
Elecraft rigs? Yes, these are nice people here.
Gary, N7HTS in Wyoming
Dale Putnam wrote:
Hey, Gary,
Been a while, good to see you. Hope all is well,
and Welcome.. these are a great bunch of folks. Lots of help.
Brett,
Choices abound - 1N34s are common, 1N5711s work well. It mainly depends
on the directional coupler design. See chapter 27 of the ARRL Antenna
Book for additional information and projects.
73,
Don W3FPR
Brett gazdzinski wrote:
Anyone have any idea what sort of diodes
would work
Fred,
Yes, that works, and Spectrogram has a waterfall type display too. I
find that the spectral display is much easier for my eyes to discern
than the subtle shift of colors on a waterfall display - YMMV - Use
whatever works best for you.
73,
Don W3FPR
Fred Jensen wrote:
Don Wilhelm
Use a 1N5711. Breakdown voltage is 70 volts and voltage drop across the
diode is only a few tenths of a volt at low current. It makes a reasonable
detector up to 500 MHz.
-John
KI6WX
Anyone have any idea what sort of diodes
would work best in the swr bridge of a high power
antenna tuner?
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