You can slip the black coax inside a white tube such as white plastic
tubing at Home Depot for water lines. Or use white RG6. It is low loss and
even though 75 ohm it will work quite well. I use it for 80 and 160M with
1500W. I don't think it will last as long outside as coax made to be UV
Top banders use RG6 all the time and run full bore (and then some)
through it. At 1 Mhz, it is rated at 4kw.
If you're only interested in 100 watts output (you didn't say what
frequency you operate), you're good to go with RG6 up to 1GHz.
The white stuff is so cheap, you can replace it every 5
Werner,
If you connect only the KPA100, the stock inductor is usually fine. If
you have aspirations to add the KAT100, or the Elecraft transverters,
then you should replace the stock inductor. About 12 turns of wire on a
small ferrite toroid core should work nicely.
73,
Don W3FPR
Dr.
The Mayo Radio Experimenters network is having it's annual Radio rally
on the 18ht of November in the Belmont Hotel in Knock Co Mayo. Doors
open at 11 Am (to the public..)
I have volunteered to put on an Elecraft stand. I would very much like
some help from other EI / GI Elecraft owners on the
RG6 is 75 ohm cable. Why would you buy a great radio and worry about
performance,then go use the wrong cable. You start out at a 1.5:1 swr.
Idon't get it.
kf4yox
- Original Message -
From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday,
You use it because of 2 characteristics. 1) It has lower loss than an
equal physical size 50 ohm cable - and that is true even considering the
added loss due to mismatch. 2) It is conviently available and inexpensive.
Considering the added loss due to a 1.5 SWR, look at the charts. If the
-Original Message-
From: Samuel Strongin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RG6 is 75 ohm cable. Why would you buy a great radio and worry about
performance,then go use the wrong cable. You start out at a 1.5:1 swr.
Because RG-6 may not be the wrong cable, and the SWR may not be 1.5
to 1.
IMHO, the
I have a great idea don't use the proper cable at all just use the cheapest
piece of junk and try to justify it. The fact of the matter 1.5 does
matter.For example Icom radios fold back when seeing a swr of 1.5 to one.
CHEAP is not a reason to use something yes it will work so what. Is it the
Sorry for bandwidth, test via different Server.
73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
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Don and All,
I agree that many of the RG-59 and RG-6 coax available will work just
fine. In two cases I found RG-59 CATV-type coax purchased at a big box
store that showed real signs of heat-stress after a few months of
operation at 100+ watts.
My observation is that quality and
Samuel,
Because a radio is poorly made and starts shutting back at an swr of 1.5:1
does not mean that the coax cable is not efficiently transferring the power
to the antenna.
Many superstations use 75 ohm hardline obtained from cable companies and
those stations get out just fine, ok they get
A couple of points:
1 -- While the feedline might have a 1.5:1 swr, a tuner at the rig can
allow the rig to see it as 1.0:1.
2 -- If the feedpoint of the antenna has an impedance close to 75
ohms, RG-6 would be the _correct_ feedline to use. (Correct meaning
best match to the antenna and lowest
KR2Q penned: Top banders use RG6 all the time and run full bore (and then some)
through it. At 1 Mhz, it is rated at 4kw.
Doug, where did you find that spec?
From what I know, most flavors of RG6 lack the voltage rating to
instill confidence in putting a lot of power down the line. Yes,
Hi,
I miss the sound of my K2 built in keyer now after setting up winkeyer (as part
of microKeyer II). I am sure others have played with the settings and come up
with some adjustments to make it sound more original again. Anyone would like
to share them?
Thanks and 73,
Andy, KU7T
If you haveever tried to remove housepaint from a coax, black or whatever,
you'll know that best way to match the coax to the house is to paint it with
your color of choice. I have a 45 year old Moseley vertical ant that I paint
with latex exterior paint and it lasts until you take it off.
At 10:16 AM 11/13/2007, Samuel Strongin wrote...
just use the cheapest piece of junk and try to justify it. The fact of
the matter 1.5 does matter.For example Icom radios fold back when
seeing a swr of 1.5 to one.
Remind me to never buy an Icom. Who would want a radio which can't be
used
Actually, I've found Icoms to be much more tolerant of SWR issues then
Yaesu. When you consider that most (90% or more?) recent rigs have
built in antenna tuners that can match up to 150 ohms minimum, the idea
of 72 VS: 52 seems trivially unimportant.
Mike S wrote:
At 10:16 AM 11/13/2007,
Great new review on eHam, please Rob - what is your
serial number? ;-)
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Dear patient Elecrafters
I received the pre-shipment e-mail from Lisa this morning (order placed
30th April). I originally indicated the lower cost option of shipping
via the US Postal Service Express Mail which is quoted at $103.00
(K3/100 modular kit, ATU, TCXO and one extra filter). Lisa
FWIW the K3 is packed very well, but given the difference I would suggest
UPS. I actually used the US/ Swiss Post and it took seven days. I'll
probably have my second K3 sent UPS as I'll probably be buying transverters
as well.
Simon Brown, HB9DRV
- Original Message -
From: Dave
On Nov 13, 2007 5:53 PM, Simon Brown (HB9DRV) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
FWIW the K3 is packed very well, but given the difference I would suggest
UPS. I actually used the US/ Swiss Post and it took seven days. I'll
probably have my second K3 sent UPS as I'll probably be buying transverters
as
Dave,
You should have suggested to Lisa that she use Global Express
Guaranteed. Assuming the $103 quote represents a 20 pound
(19 kg) package without the insurance, the same package would
have been $155 with GXG. GXG permits insurance to $2499 for a
maximum insurance fee of $18.00
When
Hello group,
I'm needing a tuner for use with my K2, and wanted to know the pros
and cons of the KAT2 vs. the T1. Is the only difference that the T1 is
stand-alone and the KAT2 is internal? Thanks in advance for your advice.
73,
Kristina KE7LUC
http://www.scientificblogging.com/news_account/stealth_antenna_made_of_gas_impervious_to_jamming
--
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982
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W6FB added:
Actually there were two separate companies created from what was
Motorola Semiconductor Group. The first was On Semiconductor, which
makes all sorts of transistors, logic and analog ICs. Th second was
Freescale, consisting mostly of the microprocessors and
microcontrollers, plus a
Kristina,
The KAT2 has a much greater tuning range, handles 2 antennas and
remembers the last tuned settings for each band on both antennas.
Communication between the K2 and KAT2 is automatic and quite painless.
Of course, if you need a remote tuner (mounted at the antenna for
example),
Hello all,
I've been hiking with Guy, N7UN, and as some of you know he's a rocket
on the trail. He usually brings along a tri-band diople to use on the
trail. His dipole is a 40m dipole and he just connects less wire for 30m
and 20m. I thought I'd build one and try it out.
I started with a 20m
Thanks for the information Dave. Any idea how much quicker UPS might be?
(Based on the latest update I am hoping for Lisa's email in 2-3 weeks time.)
73 to all
Geoff
G3UCK
- Original Message -
From: Dave G4AON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
.
UPS would appear to be the only safe option and may
As a newcomer to major Elecraft items I hope it is not presumptuous of me to
add to the wish list. My small station layout means that a remote ATU is much
more effective than an inboard one. Therefor the tuning part of the KAT3 as
an external unit (with say a 25 to 35 ft power and control
This is an easy fix. Turn off the Winkeyer sidetone and turn on the K2
sidetone. You still have to feed the Winkeyer into the K2's key jack,
and you are still using the K2's keyer, although only in handkey mode.
The K2 sidetone still works, so just use it.
On Nov 13, 2007, at 8:35 AM,
Dave and Joe,
A few months ago I purchased an item from a company in the State of
Washington which was handled by FedEx to London Heathrow. Parcel Force then
handled the package from London to here in Scotland, and I recall having to
pay Parcel Force an amount. Dave, if you would like more
Steve,
about Gamma HPS-1
What kind of experience and how long you have used it.
You told it is NOISY.
Did you ground your equipments properly?
The many evaluations of the supply seem to be
strictly positive (5/5). Of course they have bought
it and want to say they make wisew decisions.
I have not
Geoff
You asked about comparing USPS Express Mail International with UPS. My
last parcel (for a non Elecraft item back in October), sent via the USPS
was listed on the USPS web site as taking 3 - 5 days, but took 3
weeks... 2 days collection to leaving Chicago - the rest spent sitting
in UK
This whole discussion amazes me. Almost universally, there seems to be
no recognition that even though the feedline is matched at the radio,
it is indeed NOT matched beyond the tuner. The feedline can see
humongous mismatch (high SWR) and the operator doesn't know because
the tuner hides
I (and others) have been hoping for something like this since the K2 came out.
Elecraft introduced the T1, which is fine for QRP use, but sometimes you've
gotta crank the power up a bit.
If Elecraft would introduce a remote tuner based on the KAT100 or the KAT3
priced competitively, I think it
Let me clarify. The CW I am complaining is the K2 sidetone. The
Winkeyer(microKeyerII) does not have a sidetone; it is fed to the K2 key jack
and the K2 is configured to Hand. The timing is just way off. The dits are
really short, but playing with the parameters has not changed much.
Just
Have you experimented with the settings on the Winkey tab in Router?
I'll send you some screen shots of how I am set up with the MK2R+. The MKII
Winkey should be the
same, or close to it. I'll send them this evening.
-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065
K3#0009
Let me clarify. The CW I am complaining is the K2 sidetone.
The Winkeyer(microKeyerII) does not have a sidetone; it is
fed to the K2 key jack and the K2 is configured to Hand.
The timing is just way off. The dits are really short, but
playing with the parameters has not changed much.
I
My small station layout means that a remote ATU is much
more effective than an inboard one. Therefor the tuning part of the
KAT3 as an external unit (with say a 25 to 35 ft power and control
cable) AND the antenna switching functions transferred to the KANT3
in the main rig would be
Any idea how much quicker UPS might be?
My K3 should be landing in Cologne, Germany right about now - now is
20:52 UTC on Tuesday.
It left Aptos Yesterday at about 00:09 UTC (Tuesday), i.e. 16:09 PST in
Aptos (Monday).
So it got across the Atlantic fast enough - less than 24 hours. Next
Andreas,
Take a look at this WinKey document. It may help. In the meantime, experiment
in small steps with
the keying compensation and weighting. If running QSK, you can also try the
1st element extension.
If you're running a logging program like WriteLog or N1MM, they have their own
Sorry, forgot the link to the document. :)
http://k1el.tripod.com/WinkeyUSBman.pdf
-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065
K3#0009
On Tue Nov 13 15:33 , Andreas Hofmann sent:
Let me clarify. The CW I am complaining is the K2 sidetone. The
Winkeyer(microKeyerII)
Hello Kristina
The KAT2 has one big advantage over the T1.
(I have both of them).
With the T1, you are looking at just one
antenna.
With the KAT2, you have two separate ANT
ports, and can switch between them with a
button press. On a band-by-band basis, the
KAT2 remembers its setting for whatever
The ability to control an external ATU is very important for those of use
who will also be using a high power auto-tuner after an amplifier.
Eric/Wayne have said that this is on the list for a future release. What
would make sense (to me) would be:
1) External auto-tuner sends keying signal to
She's been up and running for about a day now, and I must honestly say that
for the first time in 25 years I am enjoying listening to CW, my previous CW
radio was a TR-7 with Sherwood filters. In fact it's so good I'm thinking of
another CW filter, I have the 250Hz and am tempted to get a 1kHz.
Another for sure sale here!!!
... Craig AC0DS
If Elecraft would introduce a remote tuner based on the KAT100 or the
KAT3
priced competitively, I think it would sell well.
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If all goes well there will be an Elecraft K3 on display at the Fort
Wayne, Indiana Swap. K8AJ and myself (K8TB) will be there Sat and Sun,
and Mike, N8XPQ should join us on Sunday.
Look for the Elecraft banner and someone with a big smile on his face!
73 de Tom K8TB
(p.s., the
Bueno, Tom. Hope you can do it. I'm planning to make the trip down
there from Goshen and will be looking for your banner. That'll be the
only K3 I see for a while yet since I'm in the third production run.
Dave W5DHM
On Nov 13, 2007 4:48 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If all goes well
I have been following this thread and find it very interesting, particularly
as a Mechanical Engineer I have to read it slowly but may I comment --
1, I don't know the details of Icom's protection system, but the ones I have
seen sense reflected power, well actually it will be the voltage
I'm awfully wound up and in deepest distress
When I last talked to Lisa she said in a week, perhaps less
You'll be hearing from me, you are getting so close
But two weeks have now passed with no word from Aptos.
The wait is so painful, my gut's in a knot
I so wish I could see that new rig
Yeah, Dave, you have too much time on your hands.
de Joe, aa4nn
- Original Message -
From: David Yarnes [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 5:58 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Ode To My Phantom K3
I'm awfully wound up and in deepest distress
When
At 06:06 PM 11/13/2007, Joe-aa4nn wrote:
Yeah, Dave, you have too much time on your hands.
Na...I think he's found a creative outlet for the frustration that
many people feel with the
delivery cycle and lack of information.
73,
Thom - k3hrn
___
Hi all,
I have a different scenario. I like the concept of locating the tuner
close to the antenna and controlling it remotely (the only control I
need is Tune!). So what I need at the transceiver is the ability to
start a carrier at reduced power (10W regardless of power and mode
setting)
I'm still bored!
Here's my final version!
I'm awfully wound up and in deepest distress
When I last talked to Lisa she said in a week, perhaps less
You'll be hearing from me, you are getting so close
But two weeks have now passed with no word from Aptos.
The wait is so painful, my gut's
Hello!
I've been off this list for a good long while...quick question. Any
picks for a good starting morse key? I've played around with the
paddles and maybe want to start with a straight key...
(update: back from my adventure, finished my Elecraft 'cept for DSP
and battery bits, no license yet,
Dave,
Buy a ticket to Switzerland and go play with Simon's.
John [K7SVV]
P.S. It was nice seeing you at the office last night.
P.P.S. The KX1 arrived today.
- Original Message -
From: David Yarnes [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 13,
Would you mind a simple diagram so I can get a better idea as to how the
swivel/snap connectors work? I have a KX1 and 2 K-s which I would love to
experiment with.
Bill
K9YEQ
-Original Message-
Hello all,
I started with a 20m diople and tuned it. The wire is # 24 gauge
stranded
David Yarnes wrote:
I'm awfully wound up and in deepest distress
When I last talked to Lisa she said in a week, perhaps less
You'll be hearing from me, you are getting so close
But two weeks have now passed with no word from Aptos.
The wait is so painful, my gut's in a knot
I so wish I could see
why look out side
.it's a bird
it's a plane
NO it's MR. UPS.
AND HE HAS THE WHITE BOX,
the early bird GOT the BIG WHITE BOX TODAY,,
SN TO FOLLOW
bill ny9h
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I would normally reply directly, but I thought that there might be
wider interest.
Someone wanted to know how do you know that RG6 is used on top band
for TRANSMITTING.
Just go the top band reflector and do an archive search.
Here is one from one of the 'most famous' top banders around. Yes,
Peter (and interested others),
You might want to peruse the article Antennas, Transmission Lines, and
Tuners at my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com.
The article tries to flatten several myths in terms that should be
understood by most hams - no math, but I believe a good explanation of
Hi
Waiting on my K-3 and thought I'd make a cable for my XV-144 XV-432 to
connect to my K-3. The info is very sparse. Nothing in the K-3 Owners Manual
except a pin out chart and nothing in the XV manuals refering to the K-3. I
have the 15 and 9 pin plugs. Need info on wiring the 15 pin end.
Mine came today, too!
Invoice #47389, entered on 4/29 via FAX
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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OK you lucky people who now have a K3. How about making a short video
for the rest of us to see and hear your rigs?
It's very easy :O)
Robert VE3RPF
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I am trying to find a fault in my KDSP2. Do circuit diagrams of the two
boards exist with higher resolution of the logic signals? Many of the
signals in the diagrams in the manual seem to be done with a low
resolution dot matrix printer and they are awfully hard to read.
The LED lights up
There's another issue that leads to greater feed line efficiency in addition
to the points Jack made: keeping the SWR relatively low. That is, less than,
say, 15:1 or less. All feed lines become lossy at high SWRs. One reason, as
Jack mentioned, is the likelihood of dielectric breakdown. That's
I have a question about installing a KXB30 into my KX-1, but first...a little
story about how much I like this radio. Compared to most of you I am a rookie
at the building and operating in CWbut I do enjoy it. I have had the base
20/40 meter KX1 built for a while. Most of my contacts have
Was the board installed and in service, and functional, or is this DSP
newly built, and you are troubleshooting it?
-
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982
On Wed, 2007-11-14 at 13:53 +1100, KBG Luxford wrote:
I am trying to find a fault in my KDSP2. Do circuit diagrams of the
In a message dated 11/13/07 3:19:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Almost universally, there seems to be
no recognition that even though the feedline is matched at the radio,
it is indeed NOT matched beyond the tuner. The feedline can see
humongous mismatch (high
Kieth,
I use 'Goop' on those pads. The pads will stick nicely to a flat
surface, but the solder leads on the KXB30 are just not flat enough.
Super-Glue and other thin adhesives do not have the gap filling
characteristics that are needed. An alternative to Goop is something
like 'ShoeGoo'.
Keith,
While I expect it wouldn't harm anything, super glue *might* have
some effect on anything that conducts, so I'd just apply it to the big
areas where the feet rest on bare board. Also, I don't seem to remember
having any problems with them.
Hope you are able to resolve your
Hi David,
I assembled the KDSP2 recently and it worked fine. However, I assume
that solder had wicked up into the J2 contacts - it was stiff to plug in
the DSP board and then impossible to pull apart. This made it awkward
to subsequently remove the front panel. So I broke up the plastic
I finished K3#51 (as far as QRP) a couple of hours ago, and have a
filter question.
I have FL1 setup as 2.8Khz and confirmed it in FL1 BW as 2.80.
When I am in USB or LSB mode, I can adjust the width past 2.8 up to 6.0.
The bar graph display maxes out at 3.60. There does seem to be an
effect
Well written Ron!
On Tuesday 13 November 2007 19:48, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Consider a center fed wire. At the frequency where the wire is at 1/2
wavelength long the impedance at the center is usually about 50 ohms (in
free space it would be 75 ohms, but as one moves close to the earth, the
Leigh,
I have a task on the firmware list to restrict the DSP bandwidth to no
greater than that of the widest installed filter. Even though you can
widen it further, at present, it won't be very useful, and would
probably just slightly increase the noise in the AF passband.
If you notice
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