John Reilly wrote:
When I select Nabble from the Elecraft Reflector webpage, I no longer
get a list of messages. What changed, or better yet, what am I doing
wrong?
- John
Nabble is now on new servers with an updated forum software:
http://n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-f365791.html
I
g3ymc wrote:
I suspect the link on the Elecraft site has not been updated.
(ps. posting this via Nabble myself, it works fine but sometimes doesn't
thread posts properly).
Better still, Nabble could be embedded in the Elecraft site so it appears to
be part of it. This page
Hi,
according to preview discussion on noise blanker of K3 I decided to
write few words also as I have lot of experiences with that I guess...
My antennas are really close to electric fence (just few metres)
so the pulses on all bands with K3 are over S9+20dB !
A few points as the results of
Hi,
according to preview discussion on noise blanker of K3 I decided to
write few words also as I have lot of experiences with that I guess...
My antennas are really close to electric fence (just few metres)
so the pulses on all bands with K3 are over S9+20dB !
A few points as the results of
I may have posted this in the past, but it's fitting for the
recent discussion about feeders
I made two 1/4 brass rods to bring my feeders through the
wall of the shack with 2 (hollow) porcelain cones on both
sides of the wall. The wall is of the usual construction with
2x4 studs and
Mike Miller-14 wrote:
I am confused about what the setting should be in Config Menu for the
Subreceiver (KRX3) if you want the subreceiver to listen to the same
antenna as the main receiver.
Use CONFIG:KRX3 ANT=BNC
73,
Barry N1EU
--
View this message in context:
My approach to wire antennas has been pragmatic since, as a 13-year-old novice,
I tried to load up an 80 meter dipole fed with TV twin lead connected to an
unbalanced tank circuit.
I now have an 80-meter doublet fed with open wire line. A 4:1 balun sits
outside the shack wall - I had it
Remember (or understand if you did not before) that elevated radials
should be tuned (pruned for length) just like a part of the antenna
(they *are* part of the antenna).
So get out your antenna analyzer and cut one radial a bit on the long
side - attach only that one radial to the vertical
I tried to do the same thing with the K2. I wired up a parallel
junction box and plugged my paddles, straight key and bug into the box
with one line going to the rig. I used diodes in the box as recommended
to allow the manual keys to work with the K2's keyer. It worked but
wasn't reliable as
Vic,
It seems the .001 uf capacitors have gotten fatter over the years and
now they will not fit between the header and the offending socket.
Replace C45 and C60 with disc capacitors if you have them or use most
any smaller bodied .001 uf capacitors at those locations.
For the lockwashers -
Ben,
A question about keying a K1 *is* directly related to this reflector.
The K1 is an Elecraft product.
There is a 'diode solution' that may work for you (see the K2 manual),
but something more reliable is a small external keyer. I like the K1EL
keyers because they provide Ultimatic
Pretty subjective, ea? Yes, the K3 is the best performer, but I wonder
if it is really the most bang for the buck. Is it the best deal? Does
it deliver the most fun per dollar?
I'm actually thinking the award goes to the K2/10. You get to build it
(really build it) and it's performance is
The need to manually press the power button to turn on the radio is a
problem in remote-controlled stations. If power fails, one must visit
the site to power up the radios.
That said, there are often many transients when power is first restored.
An ideal solution would have these
Hello all,
The GIC-2009 has three mushers that have registered for the challenge.
On the starting line and waiting for the start gun are:
Musher #1: WA3WSJ
Musher #2: M5PLY
Musher #3: NT3O
All have sent in their applications and are ready to race their sleds
and dogs around the globe! Please
G'day,
My handbook (p18) gives details on how to turn the K3 on and off by remote
control.
Regards,
Mike VP8NO
- Original Message -
From: Eric Scace K3NA [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: WILLIS COOKE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 20,
I'm using a h/b 1930's link (balanced) tuner. It's as efficient as I can
get, and open wire feeders closely balanced. What I'd really like is the
same automated, either using motorised variable caps or switched
caps/inductance. Has anyone any links or have they managed it themselves?
David
I think I agree with the K2/10 being the best QRP rig ever made. And, as you
said, it is good enough to be the main rig. When the bands are open, the 10
to 15 watts seems to be enough for plenty of QSOs and some DX. It has a
built-in tuner, battery, keyer, etc., and can run in the battery-saver
Dear All,
just got my confirmation of imminent delivery of KRX3. Order on 1st
July 2007 with 50% pre-payment
on K3 which turned out to be ser. 499
Andrew Forrest
M1KAZ (K2 #3679,K3 #0499)
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For those tracking:
Ordered KRX3 with K3/100: 6/22/07
Confirmation of KRX3 order email from Katie: 8/18/08
Shipping confirmation received: 8/19/08
Scheduled delivery: 8/25/08
DVR Still backordered.
73,
Terry, W0FM
K3/100 #474
Hi Ross,
Looks like you have to switch OFF the bias. Use Main Menu item MIC SEL to
do that
If the MH2 works OK that means Bias is ON now. For the Heil ProSet (with #4
or #5 dyn. element) you might need the HI range mic gain (you can set that
in the same menu). See p.51 of the Owner's Manual
Eric,
The situation should not be a problem for remote stations that are
controlled by a computer or some other type of semi-intelligent device.
The K3 has a built-in Remote Power ON. After restoration of power, ACC
pin 8 can be pulled to ground to activate the Remote Power ON. See page
18
Ross,
If the bias turns out to be your problem, know that you can run the Heil
Proset from the rear panel jacks and the MH2 from the Front Panel mic
jack. The bias settings for the two mic inputs can be different. Just
decide which mic you want to use and select that one in the menu - it is
I have upgraded to every firmware beta and never had a problem.
David Wilburn
K4DGW
BOB PHILBROOK wrote:
After reading countless reflector comments about firmware upgrades and releases, it appears to me that in many instances such so called upgrades are two steps forward and one in reverse.
2. Buy a K3 (which has separate inputs for each).
I have a set of paddles and a straight key both plugged into the K3
all the time.
Both work fine.
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Until a few days ago, I have only used fully released software. However,
because I now have the KRX3 installed, I needed to update my K3 with Beta
software. No big deal! The instructions for doing this are very clear.
And other than the extra (and very minimal) time it takes to download and
This is something that I have been thinking about recently. I have the K2/10
and I don't consider it to be a QRP rig. If it were to put out five watts or
less then I would call it a QRP rig. For me, it works great and 10 to 15
watts is all I need, even with the current band conditions. It
If this was a Burdick designed truck, this is how it
would be. ??? ;-)
http://tinyurl.com/6qz7n6
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Hi Don (and all who have offered advice help)
Thanks to all for the input that has been offered. Based on some of the
comments, I thought I might share the 'rest of the story', both to seek
additional input, and to show the technical trade off's associated with
a compromise antenna environment.
Ross:
I am having the same results with a Warren Gregoire TR200 head set with boom
mic. (electret element)
The MH2 works just fine.
I am feeding an end fed wire directley from the K3. I guessed that RF feedback
was the problem. I plan to have a balanced antenna fed with ladder line up
David Andrews wrote:
I'm using a h/b 1930's link (balanced) tuner. It's as efficient as I can
get, and open wire feeders closely balanced. What I'd really like is the
same automated, either using motorised variable caps or switched
caps/inductance. Has anyone any links or have they managed it
I have done it using motorized matched roller inductors and capacitor
controlled by a PIC. It is built into an old Tempo-1 cabinet and works
great at over 500 watts (limited by my little amp). It is in constant
communication with my K3 and auto-tunes from memory as bands or frequency is
~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
August 23 - Sept 24, 2008
~
Hawaii QSO Party (CW/SSB/Digital) ... QRP Category
Aug 23, 0700z to Aug 24, 2200z
Rules:
I made a carbon copy of this ATU. It works pretty well, however at
impedance extremes it was a bit lossy.
73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Wed, 20 Aug 2008 09:12:01 -0700, Vic K2VCO wrote:
David Andrews wrote:
I'm using a h/b 1930's link (balanced) tuner. It's as efficient
as I can
get, and open wire
The answer to my problem is to leave the POWER button like it is. I like the
way it works. I am not worried about the transient, I like that if the rig is
battery powered and the battery goes low the rig turns off and stays off until
you turn it back on. I also like the feature that if a
At 11:59 AM 8/20/2008, Niel Skousen wrote:
...
I have a 24' tree, with some 3-4' bushes at the base, in a desert/rock
landscaped front yard. The back has no 'cover' yet, and antenna's are
more visible in spite of a fence. The plan is to install the antenna
obscured by the tree, in the front
For the trackers:
I've got the Katiegram for the KRX3
Delivery :1 - 2 weeks
Order date:07-18-2007
73 de Hans, DF5SR
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I was curious just what a CPK was, so I Googled it. I found this URL that
would be a good read before you commit to the idea.
http://www.eham.net/forums/Elmers/10424
I had a Butternut HF5V about 18 years ago that was mounted with the base in a
tripod on top of a beach house at about 28 feet.
I too have upgraded my K3 # 604 to every new beta Firmware version as soon
as it is posted.
I have had no problems. Elecraft is doing an excellent job with the
Firmware.
Ron Durie
WB4OOA
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K3 v2.23 Wattmeter adjustment doesn't follow the manual. I'm
wondering if I missed something and maybe someone can help me out with
this one.I tried to re-check the wattmeter calibration that I
skipped over during the build #703 and I'm set up on page 47 of the new
manual Rev D1
Niel,
Fine on your constraints.
Remember that a vertical with raised radials is just a dipole 'on its
side' with one leg (a single radial) bent at 90 degrees to the radiating
element.
So how does only the vertical part radiate you may ask. That happens
because you add another radial
Thanks for the comments, regarding my problem with the Heil proset.
I have tried running the K3 into a dummy load (plugged directly into Ant 1)
with only 1 watt output,
bias on, front panel high. At least I can hear my speech, BUT the audio moise
is very loud.
Bias off, no speech, so it needs
Hello Niel
I'd like to talgate Don's comments with a small one of my own.
If you should use just a single radial, you may or not be able to
see the little bit of directivity the antenna will develope in the
direction of the single radial away from the vertical.
I did a quick check with EZNEC on a
Many thanks to Don Nesbitt for the answer. Yes I had reset the
TUNE parameter to 10.0 watts.
So, the note on page 47 should read, VERIFY THAT CONFIG: TUN
PWR is NOR.
Tnx, 73's Tony K2ZLS
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K8RDD wrote:
Does anyone know if it is possible to change the usb/lsb bfo offset? I
See the filter offset thread.
understand that all is done in firmware so there is no product detector, but
I have noticed a difference between usb/lsb phone modes.
The USB and LSB passbands produced by the
Tony,
Do you have TUN PWR set for 10W instead of NOR? If so, no matter what you set
PWR
at, TUN will process at 10W (or whatever you have TUN PWR set to).
-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065
On Wed Aug 20 14:00 , K2ZLS sent:
K3 v2.23 Wattmeter
If anyone is interested purchaseing this rig, contact me directly. I believe
that I can assign it to who ever wants to purchase it.
It is a KIT that is a K3-100, ATU, 250 400 Hz filters, KXV3, USB, Heil
Headset, with theKDVR3 backordered and KRX3 backordered.
Craig K6ML
719-661-5695
--
View
I am working on rotating the property for directional control(!!)
Monty,
Your property is rotating; is us the rest of us blokes who won't sit still
while you are getting around to us.
Mike Scott
AE6WA Tarzana, CA
K3/100 SN508
___
Help! I was recalibrating my K3 today and was doing the synthesizer
routine (CONFIG: VCO MD), set it on CAL and exited the menu. As a
result, I received an error message -- E 00039 ERR VC4 -- and in
consulting the revised manual (version D1) found only references to
having the second
Back when the K3 was first announced, someone suggested a T-shirt that said
My K2 is lonely.
Not so in my case. Assembling and tinkering with a K3, it's my soldering
iron that gets lonely. For some of us, if we didn't melt solder we've missed
out on something important.
Is the K3 a better
I'm rather astonished they get away with such tiny relays, even if it is
never hot switched.
At high impedances there can be thousands of volts of RF in there, even at
the moderate power levels it's specified for. In my experience that sort of
voltage easily produces coronas that would put a
_*For sale: *_
Elecraft K2/100 (Serial NR: 1933) with the KSB2, KNB2 modules. Recently
re-aligned/tuned up by W3DVX (Alan Wilcox). I am the original owner and
have
all of the associated manuals. It has been in a smoke free environment since
it's been built. It also has never been mobile.
I have done it using motorized matched roller inductors and capacitor
controlled by a PIC.
I have not yet uploaded any pictures of this tuner to my web page but if
anybody is curious then I could do so.
Don,
I am interested in your implementation of an motorized balanced tuner.
Me, too!! I am currently using a G5RV with a 1:1 current balun, then a
remotely located auto tuner. Clearly this is not ideal although I have 200++
countries (170 confirmed) with 100W using it, so it can't be all bad. I am
always looking for improvements and motorized tuners intrigue me.
Knut -
John,
I, too, suffered this apparent loss of access to Nabble2 without any changes
locally. I found that I only needed to click on the Elecraft link on the
upper left corner to bring out the full forum listing.
73,
Mike, K8CN
Durham, NH
--
View this message in context:
Lets try this again with further explanation. I am retired and do not have an
endless budget to upgrade the K3. The upgrades I make will depend on their
cost – yet I want to progress toward the “ultimate” K3 and not end up with a
box of high dollar “junk.” I would like to know what I need to do
I have put in the KPA3, and have set KPA3 PA NOR.
Set WMTR HP 050
then I exit configuration.
I am connected to a Palstar KL2k wattmeter.
TUNE gives me no output. I was expecting 50 watts on my wattmeter.
Ken K5WK
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From ling-time friend N0TU in Colorado.
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--
Hi Ken,
Thought you might enjoy seeing our QRPxpedition to Uncompahgre
Peak as N0B
N0B's final video is online!
(Here's my last post for
I'm flying out tomorrow for the Boxboro, MA, Hamfest. We're manning the
Elecraft booth this weekend with K3s and our other rigs and goodies. We
are also providing a K3 for the convention demo radio station.
I'm also giving a talk on the technology behind the K3 at 11 AM on Saturday.
Please
Rich,
I suggest you consider your need for the 8 pole 2.8 filter first -
remember that it is the DSP that does the real filtering, the roofing
filter is only to keep strong offending signals out of the DSP front
end. On that basis, consider your operating desires - if you are heavy
into SSB
Interesting I'll have to see how much difference this makes by trying it
this way I've got things working pretty good by playing with my
slope and threshold settings.
I think that the thing works pretty good for me as a mostly CW op and
I've had quite a few other mostly CW ops feel the same
I got the matching handmike, and no output.
I have set mic sel FPL, and set mike gain 50. Is there something else
required?
Ken K5WK
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Ken,
Yes, you need bias set on too - when in the MIC SEL menu, tap the '2'
button to toggle the bias (the '1' button toggles between H and L - L is
usually good for the MH2).
73,
Don W3FPR
Kenneth Waites wrote:
I got the matching handmike, and no output.
I have set mic sel FPL, and set
I have been searching through Mouser and other catalogs for something I know
exists. I have seen examples in both Elecraft kits and in other kits I have
built. Now I want to find these parts for a project I am designing. I want a
set of 0.1 right angle header and sockets. I am able to find
On Molex check out the C-Grid receptacles. If you're wondering how I
got there I looked up the pinned part on mouser then typed that family
into the molex website then clicked on the catalog page then it tells
you the mates with information. You can then search for that and then
find what you
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