Ron Kenwood wrote:
I have a continuous S7 to S8 noise level at normal SSB bandwidths. If
I had to describe the noise, I would say it sounds like amplified
background band noise. The source is outside my house. Removing the
If the noise is close to gaussian, there is nothing any receiver noise
This morning's test transmission on 17.2kHz from SAQ was received at RST
599 at 08.00 and 08.30 UTC using a Datong VLF converter and my K3 turned
to 28017.2 kHz. The K3's NB and NR were very useful in cutting out the
background noise.
VVV VVV VVV DE SAQ SAQ SAQ
CQ CQ CQ DE SAQ SAQ SAQ = THIS
On my K3 there is still quite a loud speaker 'pop' with Power On
and Off after loading firmware revision 2.76.
Looking at the NS data sheet for the audio amplifier IC shows that
it has click suppression built in. The length of the suppression
period is determined by the value of the capacitor on
I have a good 6m set-up with a 7 element long yagi and low loss feeder
(~ 0.5dB). I am in a quiet (in most directions..) rural area.
Without the PR6 the K3 does not hear quite as well as my Icom 7800 used
to. The stock K3 is still good enough to decode some EME QSO's
Swapping between the
Jeff Maass wrote:
I have three Heil headsets, each with the HC4 element. These are *not* the Icom
iC
versions.
Which is the correct Heil adapter for the front panel connector? Kenwood?
I've been sorting through the archives, and have not found a clear answer.
73, Jeff K8ND
Jeff,
Use the Kenwood adapter - or plug the headset directly into the rear
panel jacks.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jeff Maass wrote:
I have three Heil headsets, each with the HC4 element. These are *not* the Icom
iC
versions.
Which is the correct Heil adapter for the front panel connector? Kenwood?
Having RQ EQ by mode would make very welcome. It is near the top of my
requests.
Ignacy
Dick Dievendorff wrote:
There's a nice little EQ-manager utility from N2CB. There's a link to it
on
http://www.elecraft.com/k2_remote.htm
This may not be what you're asking for, but it's a
I just upgraded from 2.67 to 2.78. The pop from 150 to 100Hz is now very
clear.
Ignacy
W8ZN wrote:
Hi all,
On K3's #94 and #965, on cw when you narrow the DSP down past 150 to 100,
there is a noticable pop in the speaker and the audio becomes quite muted.
The S meter still shows the
Hello all,
I am confused about the output level of the K3. What is the output power
level of the 10 Watt version of the K3?. Is it the same on all bands? Do I
have to reduce the output below 10 watts to avoid poor transmit intermod on
SSB? I am asking this because I use my present K2 QRP radio
Not sure who takes requests. Here are mine.
Simple
1. RX EQ separate by mode
2. Dual PB is very useful but in many situations the BW of the peak: 200 Hz
is too wide. Make this configurable. Less important: make ratio of peak to
average configurable as well.
Ignacy, NO9E
--
View this
I find the K3 to be just fine on 6 meters. For extremely weak signal work, an
external preamp may be needed. Time will tell. I've used the Flex 5000A, Pro
III and the K3 on 6 meters. As far as signal reception goes, I could not notice
any difference between the 3 rigs. I could A/B/C them. The
I did this a few years ago. After mounting the parts for the regulator on
the outside of the walwart, I covered it with a large legos block from my
kids toy box. The kids never missed it.
Steve, W2MY
-Original Message-
On Behalf Of Jim W7RY
Terry has the right idea! A 3 terminal
The owner's manual spec page says that the output power of the 10-watt
version of the K3 is anywhere from 0.1 to 12 Watts.
The power output of the K3 can be remembered per band if you choose the
PER-BAND value of the K3 config menu PWR SET setting. In NOR the
power level on each band follows
Best wishes for a joyous holiday season to all!
73,
Joe - W1AIU
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
Hi,
I've just installed my KRX3. All went okay. Although I do have a KAT3
installed, I chose the subreceiver's alternative antenna to be the BNC one.
If I've understood correctly, pressing BSET followed by ANT allowes
me to switch the subreceiver's input between the main receiver's
antenna
MERRY CHRISTMAS and Happy New Year to all Elecrafters.
73, Bob VE3XM
K2/100 S/N 04031
K3/100 S/N 00409___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub
Rich,
The K3 output power is equal to or greater than the K2, so you should
not have a problem. In addition, the K3 offers the ability to remember
a power setting for each band, and that would likely be helpful when
driving your amplifier.
73,
Don W3FPR
Richard Haendel wrote:
Hello all,
I want to thank everyone for their advice and comments regarding 6 meters.
After the holidays, I will examine everything from the K3 to the C3i antenna
and take Wayne's advice on the preamp.
I have a SSB Electronics SP-6 GaAs-Fet preamplifier that I will try first
and then look at the Elecraft
In chronological sequence:
HanukkahMonday December 22, 2008 for 7 days, ongoing now
Christmas Thursday December 25, 2008
Kwanzaa Friday December 26, 2008
Shakyamuni Buddha Day Saturday December 27, 2008
Muharram/Al-Hijira
Frank R. Oppedijk wrote:
Hi,
I've just installed my KRX3. I chose the subreceiver's alternative antenna
to be the BNC one.
If I've understood correctly, pressing BSET followed by ANT allowes
me to switch the subreceiver's input between the main receiver's
antenna and the BNC
I beg to differ. Christmas eve is Dec 24
/ SM2EKM
---
DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
In chronological sequence:
HanukkahMonday December 22, 2008 for 7 days, ongoing now
Christmas Thursday December 25, 2008
Kwanzaa Friday December
Burke
I often use a walwart when traveling with my KX-1. It has never harmed the
KX-1, caused a black hole to open or caused other grave consequences such as
bad tone reports. I generally use a 1 amp wart. The 6 watts you get from a
1/2 amp wart might be a bit skimpy on transmit.
Bob
And there are some out there, such as various followers of the eastern
orthodox faith, who follow the old calendar, which means Christmas isn't
until January 6th.
A similar, but moving, difference occurs at Easter as well. That's because
their observance of Easter is , if I understand it
I believe I was caught with this situation myself. After you have turned on
the Subreceiver I believe you press BSET followed by the ANT switch until it
shows ANT 1 which, I assume, is your main antenna. I believe I also set the
configuration menu KRX3 to ANT = BNC followed by a power off and on
In addition to using BSET, did you also check the configuration menu entry
for KRX3 to be sure it is set to ANT=BNC? That, along with using BSET and
then the ANT switch to be sure it is using antenna number one, which I
assume is what you are using for your main transmit receive antenna, should
This will probably go over like a lead balloon, but I have a suggestion for
something new/different for New Years Eve. As most of you know, there is a
long tradition of dragging out the hand keys and doing Straight Key Night
(SKN) on New Years Eve. I frequently drag my hand key out too, and
In a recent message, Dave Yarnes w7...@cox.net wrote ...
This will probably go over like a lead balloon, but I have a suggestion
for something new/different for New Years Eve. As most of you know,
there is a long tradition of dragging out the hand keys and doing
Straight Key Night (SKN) on
Our radio Club, Mid-MO ARC (Jefferson City MO), is inviting ALL locals
(and spouses) who are either CW ops or who are currently taking one of
our two CW classes to come over to the home QTH of one of our members to
help us celebrate SKN.
We'll have numerous old/new straight keys on display, a
Dave Yarnes wrote:
And there are some out there, such as various followers of the eastern
orthodox faith, who follow the old calendar, which means Christmas
isn't until January 6th.
A similar, but moving, difference occurs at Easter as well. That's
because their observance of Easter is , if
Barry,
Thanks for your suggestions. Indeed, when I toggle BSET ANT I see
MAIN and AUX alternately. You mention a possible faulty relay.
Should there be an audible relay click when toggling BSET ANT I
between MAIN and AUX? When I do that, there is no relay click whatsoever...
73,
Frank PA4N
Thanks to all who replied!
Happy Holidays and 73,
Jeff K8ND
-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:40 AM
To: jma...@k8nd.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proper Heil Microphone Adapter?
I already owned an ARR GaSFET and patched it in at the RX OUT/IN
loop. It works very well. My guess is that you'll be quite happy
with the one you own. Save your money and buy Billie Holiday
records. :)
73,
Jim K9YC
--Original Message Text---
From: Phil LaMarche
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008
While we are asking I would love to have seperate TX EQ for front and rear
inputs. I like to run a headset on the rear and the MH2 on the front but
they each have different EQ settings.
Bill NZ0T
Ignacy wrote:
Having RQ EQ by mode would make very welcome. It is near the top of my
requests.
Here is some info on a New Years Day RTTY activity.
Come one, come all to:
RTTY WELCOME DAY
01 JANUARY 2009
ALL DAY LONG
Now is your chance to meet and greet other RTTY operators from all over
the
world.
No hours, No rules, No score, No pressure, No quota, No log needed.
Any
Dear guys, and all the cast of supporting actors,
Happy Holidays to all of you! May you get 20 or 30 minutes of well-
deserved rest! Hi, hi.
Just finished assembling K3 #1741. What a great kit! The fit and
finish are extraordinary. Tolerances are close, but it is a great
pleasure to
I note a jack on the bottom of my K3 (between the VFO B and the
clarifier tuning knobs) that looks like an Ethernet or wide phone jack
to my fuzzy vision...
And, I seem unable to find reference to in in my manual.
Any ideas what it is out there?
thanks and 73 de Dave, W5SV
It's used at the factory for programming.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David F. Reed
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 11:04 AM
To: 'Elecraft (Elecraft)'
Subject: [Elecraft] Jack on bottom of
The 5,000 key strong Straight Key Century Club is out to make this the best
Straight Key Night ever. We will be on the air with our regular calls and our
third year anniversary special event call K3Y/x. We support the ARRL SKN but
our straight keys and bugs are busy every day and we have a
Tony,
I have not had time to give it a good test. The noise
reduction of the narrower bandwidth is not significant but
annoyance of the band noise in the gap is eliminated. It is
debatable whether the built in NR is better.
I think filter settings need to be set up with
Just wondering if anyone has an elecraft BL2 balun they are not using
and would like to sell before I order one.
Thanks and Merry Christmas
Tim
Nz8J
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.0/1863 - Release Date:
I just downloaded the N2CB utility and it works great! Not quite like being
able to have the capability built into the K3 but very easy to use.
NZ0T wrote:
While we are asking I would love to have seperate TX EQ for front and rear
inputs. I like to run a headset on the rear and the MH2 on
The antenna switch is in the KAT3. If you connect the BNC rather than the coax
to the tuner the switching function is not in the circuit. The switching as it
is designed appears to me to be only for the two SO239 connectors. I installed
my BNC connector, but connected the coax that goes to
New versions of the Elecraft K3 Utility for Windows, Mac OS/X and Linux are
available on the Elecraft K3 software web page:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_software.htm
The primary new capability is a Transmitter Gain Calibration wizard,
accessible from the Configuration tab, that automates the
Ken and I send our holiday greetings and best wishes to
each of you and yours for the best of this holiday season.
Rose and Ken - N7HKW and K0PP
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a
I just did it with no issues.
73,
Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Joyce
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 4:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3
The new auto-calibration routines are very cool! Thanks for adding this to
the config utility! I'm looking forward to any other calibrations/etc. you
decide to add to this very useful program.
73,
Bruce N1RX K3 #559
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to:
If you're moving up in version numbers, for example as you're doing today,
then uninstall is not required before install. Just close the K3 Utility
before trying to replace it.
If for some reason you ever want to install an older version, or reinstall
the same version, then you should
I'm getting an error message and the calibration fails. I am communicating
fine with the K3. The message is Unexpected response d...@nqr@008AE to
DS State 41. The AE are different characters than I can type here but
the closest I can come to them. Any ideas?
And Merry Christmas!!
Bill NZ0T
Barry,
Thanks for your information.
Is the mechanical click when switching between MAIN and AUX also if
you have the CONFIG KRX3 set to ANT=BNC, or only when using ANT=ATU ?
According to Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, K5EWJ, the switching is in the
KAT3 only, and the KAT3 is of course out of the
I too still suffer from the notorious pop when powering on. I would
be interested if this change may help.
73, es happy holidays
Chris
Stewart Baker wrote:
On my K3 there is still quite a loud speaker 'pop' with Power On
and Off after loading firmware revision 2.76.
Looking at the NS data
I hear a click when KRX3 in CONFIG is set to either ATU or BNC.
BTW, you do not need to use BSET and then ANT to change between Main
and AUX for the sub receiver. You can do it with a HOLD of the RX ANT
button too.
73 and Merry Christmas
Greg
AB7R
On Dec 24, 2008, at 2:53 PM, Frank R.
Christopher Kovacs wrote:
I too still suffer from the notorious pop when powering on. I would
be interested if this change may help.
The AF noise burst that is eliminated by the latest firmware was
caused by the AGC being turned off until about 2 seconds after
power-up. If you had been
It's been awhile since we've publicly thanked David Fleming, W4SMT, who
created and maintains our Mac and Linux versions of K3 Utility. In
addition to doing a great job with the actual implementation, he works
closely with Dick (K6KR) on new K3 Utility concepts and ongoing
improvements. (Their
wayne burdick wrote:
Christopher Kovacs wrote:
I too still suffer from the notorious pop when powering on. I would
be interested if this change may help.
The AF noise burst that is eliminated by the latest firmware was
caused by the AGC being turned off until about 2 seconds after
Frank R. Oppedijk wrote:
Is the mechanical click when switching between MAIN and AUX also if
you have the CONFIG KRX3 set to ANT=BNC, or only when using ANT=ATU ?
According to Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, K5EWJ, the switching is in the
KAT3 only, and the KAT3 is of course out of the circuit
Happy Christmas, all.
What better time than the final hours of Christmas Eve to apply the mod,
recently described by Wayne, that prevents damage to the audio output chip if a
mono jack is inadvertently plugged into ext. sp. instead of a stereo jack?
Before commencing, I decided to locate C2
Dear Frank:
I just finished installing my KRX3 and had exactly the same problem. I
traced it to a poor solder connection on the small PCB called the SUBIN
module.
The 3-dB Splitter transformer T1 lead number 1 was not soldered properly
to terminal 1 on the PCB. This meant that the MAIN input was
I have never experienced the audio pop. I turn the volume and power controls
all the way down before powering off the radio. I have updated with all the
upgrades as they are released.
Mike
AI4NS
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to:
Far left side of the RF board (top, not bottom). They're leaded caps
about 1/2 in diameter. Blue, as I recall :)
73,
Wayne
N6KR
David Lankshear wrote:
What better time than the final hours of Christmas Eve to apply the
mod, recently described by Wayne, that prevents damage to the audio
Assuming you're viewing the electronic version of the schematics with Adobe
Reader the Search function is most helpful. Enter C2 in the Search field and
then from the drop down box select Whole Words Only which prevents the
search stopping on C214, C259 etc. In a matter of seconds C2 was located
Thanks Wayne and Patrick. I was working with a set of printed diagrams and
Patrick, you pointed me straight at it!
I still can't believe how I could have missed the top R/H corner of RF board
diagram 1, but it will be well into Christmas day before I'll be able to sneak
away into the shack to
wayne burdick wrote:
Dick just announced his latest revision of K3 Utility (see below), which
will automatically perform all of the steps involved in K3 transmit gain
calibration. I'm posting, too, just in case his subject line didn't your
attention.
This is a real labor-saver. It can safely
Hi Wayne,
No problem, I understand now what's occurring.
Merry Xmas to all,
Chris
wayne burdick wrote:
Christopher Kovacs wrote:
I too still suffer from the notorious pop when powering on. I
would be interested if this change may help.
The AF noise burst that is eliminated by the
Hello Ron W3ZV. New owner of K3 2324 here. Noise at my QTH is local (lights,
powerlines, electrical demand) that runs S5-9+ on SSB, depending upon time
of day. It's more on AM, less on CW/Data modes. And that's on everything
from my 160-L , 80 dipoles, to 3-El Steppir beam. Depending upon band,
Just want to reiterate and emphasize what Gary says here. Noise is ADDITIVE,
and what you perceive as a universal presence of broadband noise is very
likely coming from MANY different sources -- possibly a hundred or more --
inside the shack, elsewhere inside the home, and external to the
65 matches
Mail list logo
