I use mine with a 2 x 88ft doublet fed straight in and it works on all
bands.
David
G3UNA
- Original Message -
From: THOMAS BRERETON w2...@msn.com
To: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] The use of a doublet
I have
You can go straight to www.W2DU.com to get thePDF's.
Russ, N3CO
- Forwarded Message
From: Joe Planisky jp...@jeffnet.org
To: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 10:28:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The use of a doublet
For those who might be a
Joe,
Thank you for thst wonderful reference.
Steve, W2MY
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]on Behalf Of Joe Planisky
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 9:29 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The use of a doublet
I have read of a new audio board for the K3. Is this included in new K3s
yet?
--
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-new-audio-board-available--tp3268070p3268070.html
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LP-PAN Serial # 328 E-MU 0202 For Sale, Email Address.on QRZ Call Sign W8CDJ.
73s
Charles D Jordan
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Post:
Thank you to W8ZN, K1EP, VE3KI, and K3WC ( phone call ) for your help. My
K-3 is now set up for 20 6 just the way I wanted it to be. Fortunately
Elecraft has many great customers who unselfishly give some of their time to
help others. Everyone have a great day, and thanks again!! John ,K8DHA
I use the K3 internal tuner then to a BL2. Most bands are good with the 1:1
ratio. That little switch is handy to go to 4:1 for some bands.
I have a 85 m loop and have worked 160 to 6 meters with good results.
On 160 I do have to tie the 450 Ohm line wires together and feed it against
ground.
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For Information:
After doing all the modification for 3 older K3's SN 300, all 3 did not have
output anymore and showed a err txg.
Doing these Mods on different days in the last montht the mistake
didnt show up untill recently when the others explained they have the
same trouble as I had
Had a
Tom, W0TOM wrote:
May I make a radical suggestion? Use the internal K3
antenna tuner! Now I know that most transceivers have
internal tuners that will operate well only up to 3:1 swr.
The K3 tuner is rated much higher than that. Indeed,
I was very surprised how well it works here in my
Hi to all... The encoder on my KX1 is beginning to show some trouble.
Sometimes, if I turn it counterclockwise, the numbers are going up and down
erratically before they stabilise after stopping turning the knob. After, I can
still work with the rig . Any idea, or is it time to replace it
Pierre,
Yes, it sounds like a new encoder is in order - but first check to be
certain the firmware chip is plugged fully into its socket since that
sometimes gives similar symptoms.
If you have good de-soldering tools, replacing the encoder is no big
deal. If not, cut the pins at the top, and
Please look for AB8O / 7 as a K1 portable on the beach at Depoe Bay,
OR starting this weekend/
I'll be running on a YP-1 portable vertical (SuperAntenna) and
battery power.
Would love to work some of you.
73
John
AB8O
__
Elecraft
Hi,
I am wanting to get three extra knobs for my K1s. Not sure that is the right
description. Looking for spares for mounting the tilt stand to the K1- the
larger ones that are on the sides.
Can you tell me how much they are?
Also wondering if folks are putting the large dial knob from the
Good afternoon folks,
Although I have had my KX1 for nearly a year, I have never used it on batteries
until yesterday, Not having constructed it myself, I was unaware that there was
no disconnect that would allow for ease of battery replacement without
endangering wires from coming adrift from
Hi John,
Give us some idea where to look for you, and when if possible. 40 meters?
20 meters?
Normally I'm just down the road from Depoe Bay (in Newport) during the
summers, but can't make the trip this year. I envy you!
73,
Dave W7AQK
- Original Message -
From: John Wiener
I noticed the quote by W4RNL He is the first one to remind me of the (1/8 wL @
lowest operating Frq) rule for optimizing ladder-line length and always
wondered what to do if the distance to the shack wall is much less than that
(especially if 80m operation is desired)? Laying on the ground is
Sorry if this is a double post - I checked the archive and didn't see it
there...
Does the K3 knob work/fit on the K2? It is pretty slick looking and would
be an easier option than the Yaesu knobs I've seen people getting...
Tom W0EA
Make a frame using two 2x4's and two 1/2 wood dowels or pvc between them.
Wrap 300 ohm ladder line around the frame. Make the sides from the 2x4's and
the horizontal cross pieces from the dowels/pvc. If it's 2' per side you can
get plenty of length wrapped around it. Leave a gap between wraps
Tom, I found the K2's knob wouldn't fit the VFO B shaft as it was too small.
Thus I'd conclude that the K3's knob would be a loose fit on the K2's shaft.
You could probably shim the shaft with some thin metal - like that you'd get
from a drinks can. Unless shimmed, I would guess it might not
Yes, I'd like that too, if it's possible to implement it. Fingers crossed.
73 DaveL G3TJP
drewko wrote:
Is there any reason why SCAN could not be made to operate on the
current paramters displayed in the VFOs? A lot of times I want to scan
a range without storing it in a memory location.
Pierre wrote:
Hi to all... The encoder on my KX1 is beginning to show some trouble.
Sometimes, if I turn it counterclockwise, the numbers are going up
and down erratically before they stabilise after stopping turning the
knob. After, I can still work with the rig . Any idea, or is it time
to
Hi All,
I need some help. Today I confirmed that both the Main and Sub Receiver in
my K3 (S/N 312) have zero sensitivity. They are both dead as a door nail.
I know that the antenna is working properly because when I connect it to my
Icom 7800 I copy a LA based beacon S9+10 db with both
I need to clarify my opening statement.
The Main and Sub Receivers are both deaf on 6 meters only.
Thanks,
Frank - W6NEK
- Original Message -
From: W6NEK w6...@socal.rr.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 1:02 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 both main and sub
Hello
I have for sale the Elecraft KAT100 antenna tuner. I built it about a month ago
and it works fine.
It is in new condition.
I thought I needed it, burt have since found that all my antennas are properly
tuned and I don't need it.
All toriods in it were wound by the toroid guy.
Included
What wires are in danger, Jerry?
There is a disconnect to permit easy battery replacement, if it was built
correctly:
1) Remove the two thumb screws.
2) As you separate the bottom from the top, unplug the twisted pair power
wires going to the main board in the top half. There's a plug on the pc
Oops. Sorry but I'll be QRT for the next two weeks while visitors are here
from Europe.
I'm just down the road about 20 mi. south of Depoe Bay between Newport and
Seal Rock on the Oregon coast.
Indeed, I might even be *in* Depoe bay showing our visitors around this
weekend. If I see someone
I need som advice to get my new K3 and N1MM work properly. Only problem
left is this: *I cannot make N!MM key the K3*. My PC (XP) has serial ports
and I use one of them. Will somebody out there tell me what to do?
Rick, OZ5RM
__
Thanks for the responses. It was also suggested that I do the KSYN mod and
then the VCO CAL. I did both and still have the problem.
But this is a very localized problem and I am now able to reproduce it
whenever I like. I'm actually wondering if this is a bug... so if someone
else could please
This sentence:
When SHIFT is set to for example 0.45; the problem happens on all
frequencies from 3.577.11 - 3.577.19
Should read:
When SHIFT is set to for example 0.45; the problem happens on all
frequencies from 3.577.00 - 3.577.07
My apologies
Thanks for the responses. It was also
Richard Meilstrup wrote:
I need som advice to get my new K3 and N1MM work properly. Only problem
left is this: *I cannot make N!MM key the K3*. My PC (XP) has serial ports
and I use one of them. Will somebody out there tell me what to do?
Hi Rick,
Assuming already have the serial port for
I'm sorry to hammer the board with all these messages but I found one more
criteria for the chirp to appear:
I have all 8 pole filters: 250Hz, 400Hz, 1.8kHz, 2.8kHz an 6.0kHz installed
in the main RX. I am not able to reproduce the problem when WIDTH is set
from 400Hz or less. It's only from
John,
Look up the part number in the KTS1 manual and then contact the folks at
Elecraft sales. If you contact them by phone, you can get an almost
immediate cost, and you can order them at the same time if the price is
within your budget. Yes, prices change from time to time, so there is
no
Jerry,
The battery connections unplug from the RF Board with a keyed 2
conductor plug. It plugs in near the end of the antenna tuner (the end
near the DC coaxial power plug). Should it become unplugged while
changing batteries, just put it back in - I believe most KX1 owners
actually remove
Can anyone suggest a compact balanced line that can handle 1000 watts? I like
the size of that Radio Shack 300 ohm TV line, but 100 watts is likely the
maximum. I'd like to build a stealthy KW antenna. The 20m dipole radiating
elements are so low to the ground that 3:1 SWR is the best I can
Don Rasmussen wrote:
Can anyone suggest a compact balanced line that can handle 1000 watts? I like
the size
of that Radio Shack 300 ohm TV line, but 100 watts is likely the maximum. I'd
like to
build a stealthy KW antenna. The 20m dipole radiating elements are so low to
the ground
that
Don Rasmussen wrote:
Can anyone suggest a compact balanced line that can handle 1000 watts? I like
the size of that Radio Shack 300 ohm TV line, but 100 watts is likely the
maximum. I'd like to build a stealthy KW antenna. The 20m dipole radiating
elements are so low to the ground that 3:1
Hi Don and All,
I don't know if 300 Ohm ladder line is small enough for you, but at 20:1 SWR
100 feet of it loses about 1.1 dB total. See the chart for 450 Ohm line at
the center of this page:
http://tinyurl.com/m5rjww
The loss for 100 feet of 450 Ohm line at 20:1 SWR is about .65 dB total. I
I know it doesn't answer the question you asked, but RG-8/RG-213 has a
loss of about 0.85 dB/100 ft at 20m. Your 3:1 SWR will add a little
less than 0.4 dB additional loss for a total loss of 1.25 dB. Is the
added hassle of running balanced line worth the extra 1.1 dB? Are
there other
I've been using 300 ohm stuff from the Wireman for several years now. I
bought a 500 ft. roll of it, and have never regretted it. It has small
windows, like 450 ohm line does, so it doesn't act like a sail when it's
in the air. I believe the difference in loss is negligible compared to 450
In errata C-7 dated March 15, 2009, page 1, there are instructions to
cut two traces in the area to the right of D40 on the RF board.
The instructions indicate that these cuts should read open circuit. I
read about 14M ohms on both -- and I have cut them cleanly.
Is this right? Am I
Grant,
I think that equates to an open circuit. By the way, congrats on having a
meter that reads that high!
Dave W7AQK
- Original Message -
From: Grant Youngman n...@tx.rr.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 7:33 PM
Subject: [Elecraft]
That may be the case. But the instructions are very specific about
open circuit as if the test meter leads were not connected to
anything. Even 14 megohms doesn't meet that definition.
Thought I'd better ask.
Grant/NQ5T
On Jul 16, 2009, at 9:52 PM, David Y. wrote:
Grant,
I think that
Thanks to so many for the suggestions. I don't think I'd put up with the extra
hassle of twin lead for any less than 3db, which is about what I am seeing in
my mocked up installation. Here is a word to the wise for those doing a stealth
setup, don't worry as much about absolute height of the
Tom,
100 nF is 0.1 uF, which should be marked 104. If you used capacitors
marked 103, the value was 0.01 uF or 10 nF.
Thanks for the 'heads up'.
73,
Don W3FPR
Tom (HB9DOD) wrote:
For Information:
After doing all the modification for 3 older K3's SN 300, all 3 did not have
output anymore
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