Am I missing something here? Seems to me that the rational thing to do
is turn on the power supply and let it stabilize (should only take a
second or two), then turn on the K2/K3? Turning a K2 or K3 on and off
using the power supply switch never gives the firmware/software a chance
to
The K2 has a real on/off switch. So always using that to turn it on and
off is certainly a good idea.
I am certainly puzzled at these claims of pa blowups. My original pair
of transistors is going fine after 9 years and some 30k QSOs. I have
removed the heatsink several times while fitting
Yes you are missing something.
The power supply was first switch on, then the K2.
At switch on the capacitors into the K2 charges themself, and the power supply
answered to this by emiting spikes.
I never write that all power supply have the same behavior, but for mine, it
explained the K2 PA
You can't turn the K3 fully on with the PSU power switch otherwise
nearly everyone would be doing it all the time.
Regards,
Mike VP8NO
- Original Message -
From: John Ragle tpcj1...@crocker.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 5:14 AM
Subject: Re:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 13:34:53 -0600
Don Cunningham d...@martineer.net wrote:
I guess I'm getting old. Sorry about the blank message!! Don, I
found something interesting in doing some remodeling and replacing
receptacles. The old ones were ivory, and with the new white trim, I
had to please
I am under the impression that the TX DLY setting of 8 msecs does not
actually produce an 8 msec delay between KEY OUT going low and start of RF.
In non-QRQ mode I think it is on the order of 15 to 17 msecs. The delay
does increase approximately 1 msec for each unit increase in TX DLY.
In QRQ
I discovered some of the same issues in my 1972 house, plus most of the wiring
was copper-clad aluminum which has a nasty tendency to break when replacing a
receptacle.
Bob N7XY
On Feb 17, 2011, at 5:31 AM, R. Kevin Stover wrote:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 13:34:53 -0600
Don Cunningham
I am under the impression that the TX DLY setting of 8 msecs does not
actually produce an 8 msec delay between KEY OUT going low and start of
RF.
At the default 8 ms setting of TX DLY, I measure ~ 9 ms of delay in QRQ mode
between the K3's key *input* line and RF. So, I agree that the 8ms
I've also advocated to Elecraft in the past to make available RF delay
settings below 8 ms for those of us who have fast QSK amplifier switching
using vacuum relays or switching diodes. (My homebrew 6m amplifier T-R
speed is well under 4 ms, for example. The new Elecraft amp, I assume,
will
According to the manual TX DLY description:
...sets the time from KEY OUT jack .. to first RF in 1-ms steps
I agree with your measurement of 9 msecs from KEY IN to RF. Approximately 5
msecs is lost in the K3 between KEY IN going low and KEY OUT going low. At
least in QRQ mode. I have not
Oops. I attributed my relay qsk boxes to AD5X but forgot to attribute some
of the diode ones to K7FJ!
Chuck, W5UXH
W5UXH wrote:
This is needed with my miniature relay qsk boxes (a la AD5X) since the
~4 msecs setup time is too close for comfort to the relay switching times.
It does
Hello,
I noticed that I have 6 SWR bars that is over 2:1
I did TUNE and I read 1.6
In my Powermaster SWR I read 1.23
Why the difference, at least between the 1.6 I read in my K3 display and the
bars in the meter of the K3 that show +2 of SWR?
Thanks
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W
K3 #4077
I respectively submit that the K3 does NOT have a QSK problem.
It sounds more like a discussion on how-many-angels-on-the-head-of-a-pin
with the QSK switch time substituted for angels. It did have limitations
for very QRQ, but there is an option for that now. I like the hearing with
the QRQ mode
And at least one of us has thanked Wayne for this. I don't run over 65 wpm,
but the keying and qsk performance is excellent in QRQ mode at this speed!
One does not need RIT, SPLIT etc. for a good QRQ ragchew, so I am very happy
with the K3.
Chuck, W5UXH
Guy, K2AV wrote:
In this mode all
So I'm drooling over the pictures and my wife says, Looks like you have to
decide what you are going to sell.
Vy 73, Bob dJ0RD/WU5T
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Help:
My k3 has worked great, however, now it will not do pactor...it is great on
rtty, cw, ssb, etcbut when I try to do pactor the rig is keyed, but no
output.
Cant figure out MENU settings.any comments.
Great Grandmaw Susan
If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where
Hello Jorge:
Assuming you have a KAT3 built in tuner in the K3, the TUNE (autotune)
attempts to set the SWR between the output filters in the K3 and the KAT3
input to 1:1 for maximum efficiency. The tuner can do nothing to change
the SWR on the transmission line leaving the tuner (or K3 if using
Pactor is AFSK, hope you are not using FSK mode.
73 and GL
Claude VE2FK
From: ussv dharma
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 12:14 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/Pactor IIe help
My k3 has worked great, however, now it will not do pactor...it is great on
rtty, cw, ssb,
Hello Ron,
thanks for your help.
I continue trying, also with the antenna directly to the K3, and I
discovered that the problem is when I have ON my ALS1300 amplifier.
If the ALS1300 is OFF or in STANDBY, the SWR in the K3 is 1.0 and I see only
1 bar in the meter.
If the ALS1300 is ON, then
If you get normal power output from the ALS1300 I would not worry about it.
The actual drive impedance of most amplifiers varies considerably with load,
frequency and power level. SWR does not tell you if power is being
transferred, just that as the power is being transferred the sink impedance
is
I have just noticed this happens in CW mode too. Go into split and
then try to change mode. The VFOB area warns that split is not
available (even though it is already operating) and mode down
increments the VFOA frequency, whilst mode up will change to LSB (I'm
on 40m) but reports
The same thing can be accomplished with any 2 x 2 or 2 x 4 audio
switcher - left/right become PTT and ALC. Radio Shack and most
consumer electronics stores have a reasonable selection of A/V
switches generally for less than the cost of a case, switch and
the connectors.
73,
... Joe, W4TV
As it is now my Micro keyer is plugged into the auxiliary
port on the K3. How will the auxiliary port be shared between the
KPA-500 and the Micro keyer, a 'Y' cable?
Yes, an 'all 15' Y-cable will do the job.
However, the microHAM interfaces only use FSK and PTT on the AUX
jack so it
Let's end the 120V vs 240V thread for now. Its getting way too long ;-)
73, Eric
Elecraft list moderator
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Post:
A story I heard which I wish I could confirm is that a number of
states outlawed 24 volt systems in autos after people bought surplus
aircraft landing lights which were super bright but also wide beam.
They blinded oncoming drivers.
David K0LUM
At 4:45 PM -0800 2/16/11, Lew Phelps K6LMP
Dear Group,
I have recently installed a brand new KDVR3 into my K3 (#4058).
The K3 is loaded with the latest firmware upgrade.MCU 04.25, FPF 01.14, DSP1
02.71, DSP2 02.71 and DVR 01.04
In trying to understand the KDVR3 operation I have loaded 4 short voice
messages and can recall them from
Is there a particular component on the RF PCB that would fail and give a
dead short from 12V to Ground?
I'm wondering what component(s) you might look at first?
I had the K2 cover off the other night.
The unit was turned off and the power supply turned off.
I attempted to solder a 2n7000
And another thanks Wayne for this... It was a quick, clever and relatively
cheap (all in software) fix and a result of the Elecrew listening to
customers -- and it's a clear example of taking a fresh look at a problem
and coming up with an innovative solution. Not only did it improve QSK but
code
Thanks Eric,
My question about 120 vs. 240 was asked and answered almost
a month ago. I was surprised to see it resurrected and the number of
replies lately to my email (about cars, houses etc.) was astounding.
Keep up the good work herding this amazing
Unbuilt or built. E-mail me off list. George/W2BPI
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For interested k2 owners, after upgrading my K2 power supply to a 12 A
Astron, I was looking for a better power lead arrangement than my homemade
one using the supplied 2.1 mm circular lead. I found a 2.1 mm to Powerpole
adaptor lead (3 ft) from powerwerx.com ($5.99) and I added a Powerpole
A week or so ago there was email that was referring to the P3 displaying
data (CW/RTTY). I did not think this feature was available.
Am I correct?
Rich
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