It's either a miss-post or Larry's email has been hijacked!
However, I wish I had taxes that low - all mine do it go up :-(
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
--
When I am working on a problem I never think about beauty.
I only think about how to solve the problem.
But when I have finished, if the
Indeed, if my taxes were that low I would rejoice!
On Fri, 01 Apr 2011 23:50:22 -0700, David Ferrington, M0XDF
m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote:
It's either a miss-post or Larry's email has been hijacked!
However, I wish I had taxes that low - all mine do it go up :-(
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174,
I would guess the figures mentioned refer to the check she has to write,
not her total tax burden. In other news, it appears nobody wants to know
her call sign?
73 de na6m
On 4/2/2011 1:55 AM, Kevin Rock wrote:
Indeed, if my taxes were that low I would rejoice!
On Fri, 01 Apr 2011
*Chuckle..hey guy's your all overpaid...:-))*
*
*
*I'm poor on account of Elecraft keep snaffling my savings...:-))*
*
*
*73's*
*Gary - retired - emphasis on the 'tired'
*
On 2 April 2011 16:55, Kevin Rock kev...@coho.net wrote:
Indeed, if my taxes were that low I would rejoice!
On Fri, 01
At 10:15 PM 4/1/2011, John Stevens wrote:
I think you had an addressing oops! :-) This went to the Elecraft List!
Ah crap!! One entry in the address book off! :-[ But you don't know
who's taxes! :-)
__
On the web at
I'm a new K3 owner, and I chose the K3 in part because of its small
size, because I intend to install it in my boat, which is already
cramped for space.
I am re-wiring the boat to comply with ABYC (American Boat Yacht
Council) standard E-11, /AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats/. I have
The US Governments, by the sound of it !
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
--
I need someone to protect me from all the measures they take in order to
protect me. -Banksy, street artist (b. 1974)
On 2 Apr 2011, at 08:33, Larry East wrote:
At 10:15 PM 4/1/2011, John Stevens wrote:
I think you had
With car electrics (and a boat may be similar), the reason is that if
the engine grounding strap fails (or is removed and not replaced), the
starter motor can draw current via the radio negative lead which leads
to damage and possibly fire.
73 Dave, G4AON
-
I wonder why the
Well for myself anyway, I wouldn't say that the price of the thing
wouldn't matter. It seems to me anyway that $2K seems a bit high. I'm
imaging that most of the discussion on price so far has been
speculation.
I'm in the process of getting my feet wet with Elecraft. I'm hoping to
have a K3 with
Hi,
On 9/12/10, Stan wrote:
I noticed the LCD backlight assembly is labeled (top down) A and K
on one side and K and A on the other side. The corresponding board
positions for D2 and D3 have + signs.
The manual doesn't say anything about polarity or even if there is a
top and bottom to the
It's indeed Anode and Kathode (in German). I checked data sheets for
similar parts on Mouser and LED backlight panels that have A and K on
them have these leads attached to combined anodes and cathodes of the LED
group. See
On 2011-04-02 01:03 AM, Dave, G4AON wrote:
With car electrics (and a boat may be similar), the reason is that if
the engine grounding strap fails (or is removed and not replaced), the
starter motor can draw current via the radio negative lead which leads
to damage and possibly fire.
73 Dave,
Thanks Alexey. Now it seems obvious, once you pointed it out that is.
Aloha,
Wes...KH6HRY
On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 12:38 AM, Alexey Kats alexeyk...@gmail.com wrote:
It's indeed Anode and Kathode (in German). I checked data sheets for
similar parts on Mouser and LED backlight panels that have
*Geoff,*
*
*
***When you look at the THP products you will see quality inside. The
KPA-500 is an extremely good design with excellent specs and if you use an
amplifier you want it to be clean, robust and simple to use...the KPA-500
meets all the above.*
*
*
*Now if you look at the Ameritron
Jim,
You said:
Likewise, AC branch circuits are on the other side of a main circuit
breaker which cuts both the hot conductor (ungrounded, black in US,
brown in EU) and the neutral conductor (grounded, white in US, light
blue in EU).
The safety ground (green with yellow stripe) is never
Wesley,
The board layout along with the orientation of the LEDs assures you that
it cannot be mounted backwards, no matter how it is oriented. Just
follow the manual instructions and all will be OK.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/2/2011 5:54 AM, Wesley Inouye wrote:
Hi,
On 9/12/10, Stan wrote:
I
LinkedIn
Bob Dobson requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn:
--
Robert,
I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.
- Bob
Accept invitation from Bob Dobson
There is a very serious problem with the local noise source from low
voltage lighting systems. These are sold as pendants, single lights, or
multiple lights on a support, such as a bar. The retailer supplies them
with a choice of two types of transformers, either a regular magnetic
type (non
I'm not positive (forgive the pun), but I think ideas have changed on that in
the UK and you again don't fuse the -ve lead, but I'll need to check.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
--
In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't
have any Common Sense - get some
Where will the current will flow if there is a fault? That is the
question.
There are two things involved here - wiring the radio negative directly
to the battery or wiring it to the vehicle chassis. It does make a
difference because of the way most vehicle batteries are tied on the
Wasn't it Dayton?
bill, W7KXB/7
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 22:02:12 -0700
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
From: ve...@dccnet.com
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: KPA500..Now?
Okay it is now April. Is the announcement for the KPA500 anywhere in sight?
Well, let's see now
Didn't they start
Who's on first Sam kf4yox
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 2, 2011, at 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Where will the current will flow if there is a fault? That is the
question.
There are two things involved here - wiring the radio negative directly
to the battery or
Perhaps these images from the Elecraft web site will provide inspiration:
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/NewPics2/wj4p_rugged_fr.jpg
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/NewPics2/wj4p_rugged_caps.jpg
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/old_pics3.htm
On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 10:22 PM,
I left out this nifty looking ruggedized K2 from G3LUB:
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/g3lub_rugged_k2.jpg
On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 9:01 AM, Byron Servies by...@n6nul.org wrote:
Perhaps these images from the Elecraft web site will provide inspiration:
The weekly SSB net will be held tomorrow (4/3/11) at 1800z on 14.316
MHz. This is tail ending with the Icom net that will be ending at
that time on that frequency. Ken, KO5Y, will again be the net
control station from NM. Thanks to Ken for the great job in my
absence. Have a good net.
Hi Gary,
On 2 April 2011 12:47, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:
*Geoff,*
*
*
***When you look at the THP products you will see quality inside. The
KPA-500 is an extremely good design with excellent specs and if you use an
amplifier you want it to be clean, robust and simple to
On 4/2/2011 3:40 AM, James Maynard wrote:
In fact, boats are quite different from cars. In cars, it is common to
use the chassis as a common ground return. In boats, this is forbidden.
While the chassis serves as an acceptable return for DC current, using
it in this manner is a recipe for AC
On 4/2/2011 6:21 AM, Jim McCook wrote:
There is a very serious problem with the local noise source from low
voltage lighting systems. These are sold as pendants, single lights, or
multiple lights on a support, such as a bar. The retailer supplies them
with a choice of two types of
On 4/2/2011 10:45 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
While the chassis serves as an acceptable return for DC current, using
it in this manner is a recipe for AC problems, like alternator while and
RFI. Ham gear should ALWAYS be powered by paired conductors running
directly from the power source,
I would be interested in a set of these elongated end panels too.
Unfortunately it seems the person who used to make them, Randy K3QO (ex
WJ4P) was killed in a plain accident a while back.
John
K2QY
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Home:
Anyone with a good woodworking or metalworking shop should be able to
build a set of suitable extensions for the K2 side panels.
If built out of wood, I would likely use 1/2 inch Baltic Birch plywood
(it is 9 ply and has no voids) for its strength in all directions, but a
1/2 inch thick piece
I have absolutely no complaint with my P3! I do have a request regarding
the color of the cursor. Currently is is the same color as the peak level
which in many instances overwhelms the cursor.
It would be very useful of, in a future version of the soft ware affiliated
with the P3, a choice
Jim,
Thanks for those suggestions! It never occurred to me to decouple the
transformers from the AC line. In other words, disconnect the antenna
from the monster. I'm told that many of these little switchers have
toroids or little transformers in them that are pretty effective with
noise
While the chassis serves as an acceptable return for DC current, using
it in this manner is a recipe for AC problems, like alternator whine
and RFI.
In addition, it's a recipe for ignition noise and corona noises since
using the chassis of the vehicle as a DC return makes every noise
Hi all,
I will be running the UK net tomorrow morning from 09:00BST on 3658 +/- QRM. I
hope to see you there.
Regards
Ian
--
Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC HB9DRV-9 DX Clusters
Member RSGB, GQRP 9838, FISTS 14077 | K3 #455
http://www.m0scg.org.uk
Joe and all,
Tom Rauch W8JI (whom I believe is well versed in the installation of
radios in vehicles) has disagreed with that about a year ago on this
reflector. Those interested in his statements may want to search the
archives.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/2/2011 4:09 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
Hi,
I seemed to have lost my CW sidetone (and the spot function as well)
on my K2 - s/n 1103. I'm getting audio from the receiver out of the
speakers and the transmitter seems to be transmitting.
Any ideas? is there a menu setting I may have accidentally turned off?
Tnx
tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103
How do I go about getting my K3 to transmit on MARS frequencies? I seem
to recall there was some software to turn that on.
Thanks and 73 de Dave, W5SV / NNN0SLA
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Elecraft mailing list
Home:
Dave,
Send an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com. You may have to supply
authentication that you are a MARS member (I don't know for sure), and
you should receive the package to open up the bands.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/2/2011 5:17 PM, David F. Reed wrote:
How do I go about getting my K3 to
Tom,
Yes, there is a menu item - it is the sidetone source.
Enter the menu for STL, then set the parameter for something loud enough
for you to hear - use 25 if you have no other idea. Then while still in
the menu edit, tap the DISPLAY button to toggle between the 2 sidetone
sources (it
Don---
Your are amazing! How do you know all of this stuff?
Once again thanks. I was getting no output from the U6-25 source and
when I changed the menu to U8-4 there is was load and clear!
I had just taken out my KI02 before this problem arose so I suspect that
was the reason the
Hi Gang,
Setting my XV222 and XV432 up to run with my K2/10 with I/O has been an
issue and I just found out why. With the K2 set for LP, split path, the
power out at the phono plug is not 1.0 mW as setup in the menu, but 0.2 mW.
The transverters work FB when set to single cable and HP, say 5W
Not so much amazing - when you run across this problem many times,
it becomes embedded in the brain.
This has been a perpetual K2 support problem, and the selection was left
in the firmware to support old K2s without the updated wiring for the
KIO2 or KPA100 on the control board.
Fortunately
Mark,
Do you have the KAT2 installed in that K2? And if so, did you change
the KAT2 R6 to 470 ohms as mentioned in the manual - the K60XV kit
includes the 470 ohm resistor.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/2/2011 5:46 PM, Mark Adams wrote:
Hi Gang,
Setting my XV222 and XV432 up to run with my K2/10
Hadn't paid much attention to the really little things in the display, but a
while ago while operating CW that there was a + sign under and a little to the
right of the B vfo indicator. Wondering what this was, I started digging in
the book and didn't find anything except that it would
QRG mode. May not be in the manual or manual errata yet, but it is in the
release notes, though I don't recall which release.
Ed - W0YK
Jim, W0EB, asked:
Hadn't paid much attention to the really little things in the
display, but a while ago while operating CW that there was a
+ sign under
Saylors Machine Design Works also made some nice thick aluminum side panels
for the K2 with rack-type handles at the front and rear. I got a set for my
K2, and also had them do a matching pair for my K3. Not sure if they still do
them. A Google search for the above name brings up the web
Ed Muns wrote:
QRG mode.
QRQ.
May not be in the manual or manual errata yet...
It has been in the manual for quite awhile, actually. Or see firmware
release notes for revision 4.03.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
but it is in the
release notes, though I don't recall which release.
Ed - W0YK
Jim,
Right, Bob.
What you say is true of AC residential wiring.
Boats are different. The so-called main AC breaker on a correctly
wired boat breaks both the hot wire(s) -- black or in 120/240 VAC
single phase, black and red) and the neutral (white) wire -- coming
from the boat's shore power
Hi all,
The UK Code of Practice for vehicle installations is FCS 1362
http://www.fcs.org.uk/my%20files/fcs_pdfs/codesofpractice/fcs1362_2010.pdf
It is a change, in December 2010, from MPT 1362.
The old MPT version said both leads to battery, both fused.
The negative lead did provide an
Perhaps the top and bottom could be extended too, at least in front,
creating a box around the controls for protection.
The K2's are available for: $45
The K3's are available for: $50
(plus shipping)
See photo about 3/4 down this page:
http://saylorsmachine.com/ShopPhotos.html
73, Bill
Thanks Don,
not a problem.
--Dave, W5SV / NNN0SLA
On 4/2/11 4:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Dave,
Send an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com. You may have to supply
authentication that you are a MARS member (I don't know for sure), and
you should receive the package to open up the bands.
I wasn't kidding. (Some may have mistakenly thought I was partaking in April
fools..)
73,
Eric
www.elecraft.com
_..._
On Apr 1, 2011, at 6:29 PM, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft e...@elecraft.com
wrote:
Next week. :-)
73,
Eric
_..._
Mike AI6II ai...@att.net wrote:
Okay it is now
Only ham callsign and K3 s/n are required.
73,
Eric
www.elecraft.com
_..._
On Apr 2, 2011, at 2:32 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Dave,
Send an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com. You may have to supply
authentication that you are a MARS member (I don't know for sure), and
you
I have a K-3, S/N 1997 that I am very happy with.
So here's my questions:
I read that the K-3 can be run as a remote station. Is anyone doing this?
Does anyone have any comments on how this works compared to the Kenwood TS
2000, which a friend of mine let's me use remotely, using W4MQ's
On 4/2/2011 1:07 PM, Jim McCook wrote:
You may have the answer to the problem!
Your electricians should be happy with one of the small 1A line filters,
Corcom, Delta, or equiv.
73, Jim K9YC
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Elecraft mailing list
Home:
On 4/2/2011 1:09 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
a substantial common mode choke in the antenna feedline at the
feedpoint of the antenna.
Yes.
73, Jim K9YC
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On 4/2/2011 2:06 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Tom Rauch W8JI (whom I believe is well versed in the installation of
radios in vehicles) has disagreed with that about a year ago on this
reflector.
I don't often disagree with Tom, but sometimes I think he's mistaken.
One place we differ is that he
Actually, I was hoping that something like that would be
the next Elecraft product. Maybe a K2-field, or a K2-A;
a ruggedized, updated, version with lessons learned from
the K3. Perhaps in a SG-2020 like package, with 20W and a
antenna tuner mounted on the top with both a front and rear
RF
Good Evening,
Propagation was decent this week. The weather was not. It has been
snowing on and off all day. I get enough sun between storms that it all
melts but still this is getting old. I would like spring to really show
up and stay for a while.
I had very high winds a few
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