Hi All,
Looking for KAF2 and KSB2 (if you also have KNB2 please let me know).
Maybe someone has recently ungraded to KDSP2 and doesn't need KAF2 anymore ?
Thanks,
Tomasz
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My K2 suddenly quit supplying a sidetone. Changing sidetone level and
frequency do nothing.
Per the troubleshooting guide, I've found that the drain of Q5 has no AC
voltage when key down, while pin one of U10 (IIRC) is supplying 5 volts (and
pin 25 of the IC in the previous step had expected 2.5v
Chip,
I suspect that you accidentally toggled the sidetone source in the menu.
If your K2 SN is 3000 or greater, or you have an earlier K2 with the
KPA100 or KIO2 added, you need to select U8-4 for the sidetone source.
If none of those conditions match, the sidetone source is U6-25.
If you
Kristinn,
You may have trouble with the MC-80 microphone because it is an
amplified microphone which expects +8 volts on pin 5 of the mic jack -
Elecraft has +8 volts on pin 6. Note that the K2 microphone jack can be
wired to accommodate a wide variety of microphone pinouts, so the fact
that
Nuts. Ill bet i inadvertantly changed the sidetone source, because i had
been viewing the secondary menus just before. Overlooked sidetone source.
Should have posted before pulling. I got this K2 second hand and have
been trying to learn the ins and outs - there is a lot there.
Thanks for
Hi All,
I consider myself to be a pretty experienced kit builder. Normally I follow the
instructions step-by-step, but sometimes I deviate if it will make things go
smoother for me.
I am working on the KAT2 right now. I am starting the L-C board. The manual
says to install all the relays
David,
Just follow the instructions in order and all will be well. You must
flush cut the relay leads after soldering, and that will not be easy if
you mount the capacitors first.
When it comes to the capacitors that fit above the relays, yes, you will
trim the leads before soldering as
Chip,
If you want to do a good job of learning the K2, go through the manual -
you can skip the assembly parts because it is already assembled, but
walk through the alignment and test parts. There is a lot of learning
that a builder obtains in those sections that is not repeated anywhere
Good Morning,
Just finish my K2 serial 7179 a week ago, I run thru the menus and I was
learnig how to use it in the best way, and now I do not undurstand the Keying
Weight (DOT) menu. Shouldn't it be in a 1:1 default setting? I am used to a 1:1
ratio, for that the menu is 1.00 setting?
Many of the K2 settings are somewhat relative, depending ultimately on
your actual component values, which are not exact, but within a
manufacturing tolerance. Listen to your transmitted dots on a
separate RX and see if they SOUND equal. Adjust the number if you
think dots are too long or too
Thank you for your rapid reply. I am not very good at morse code, just learn
it. The audio morse tone locks good as the morse does. I will try to see it im
my osciloscope, dot one square, dash three squares... at least this way I am
able to see exactly what the menu is changing, afther all I
Trust your ears. If it sounds good, it is good. Other people are
copying with their ears too. They are not using an oscilloscope to
copy.
73 GL,
Guy
On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 11:51 AM, Pedro Correia
pedrocorreia1...@hotmail.com wrote:
Thank you for your rapid reply. I am not very good at
The little manuals by Nifty are excellent. I have used both the K2 and
K3 versions. These are about as comprehensive as necessary, as well as
durable and handy.
http://www.niftyaccessories.com/Elecraft_RefGuide.htm
John Ragle -- W1ZI
=
On 7/28/2011 10:32 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
It would
I'm interested in purchasing an Elecraft PR6 6 Meter Pre amp for around
$75 if someone has one for sale. Please contact me off the reflector.
Thank you,
Michael
N6MQL
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To the writers who were discussing operational guides for the K2, W3FPR has
a nice one-page PDF on the K2.
http://www.w3fpr.com/
He attributes the guide to someone else, but I did not readily spot the
author's name.
72.
Jim Stephens, NX8Z, +
Hurricane, West Virginia, USA
E-mail
Ordered 15 May, left Watsonville last Wednesday July 20th via USPS and I picked
it up yesterday (27 July) from Parcelforce Worldwide, Leeds. For once
Parcelforce have been quick.
No missing parts. Assembly under way.
73 to all,
Geoff
G3UCK
Recent messages here and on amsat-bb remind me to ask:
Has full-duplex with converters been evaluated on the K3 (and failed to
be possible, for whatever reason?), or has that as a feature been pushed
down (so far it may never surface)?
I've got to say, a K3 + KX3 for that application seems a
test
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As in title.
Sorry but I have to check as I can't post anything.
Tomasz
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This
I ordered mine last Wed, and it arrived on Monday of this week, 5 days.
Mike
W0IH
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One of the things that I'd like to see on a rig is a bluetooth headset
connection for the mobile setup. I've tried a Jabra transmitter (from a
phone) and a BlueParrot headset, but had too many problems with the Jabra
transmitter not connecting. The headset has noise canceling and worked
GREAT
Anybody using 240 VAC in the US? So it uses the same connector on the amp,
but you have to fit a different plug to mate with your 240VAC/20A wall
socket? Looks like this -! ...only without the dot.
Or better still, any droop using the 120VAC option? About 10 amps I guess.
Chuck, KE9UW
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I am using a separate 220v cable with a 15 amp plug. This cable can be
purchased from Datacomm Cables, Inc. It is NEMA 6-15P to IEC320 C13 -
5A - 6 Feet. This is a 14 gauge 3 wire SJT jacket black cable. Cost is
$18.25 shipped. This is a molded cable on both ends and works well with my
Chuck,
The do-it-yourself solution is to purchase a plug that matches your
socket, cut off the 115 volt plug and install the 230 volt plug. Those
plugs are available at DIY and hardware stores as well as at electrical
supply centers.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/28/2011 5:39 PM, ke9uw wrote:
Anybody
Oh, yes, several of the field testers ran it on 240VAC and, of course, many
European customers are running with 240VAC.
There are at least two different connectors used for 240VAC mains in the
USA, depending upon the current the outlet is rated for.
From my experience, I definitely would not
On 7/28/2011 2:39 PM, ke9uw wrote:
Anybody using 240 VAC in the US? So it uses the same connector on the amp,
but you have to fit a different plug to mate with your 240VAC/20A wall
socket? Looks like this -! ...only without the dot.
Or better still, any droop using the 120VAC option?
I have
H Gang:
I have a very strange request for info. I inherited a Mosley TH-3jr tri-bander
from Russ, AE4NY. The driven element has two (2) 7ft 3 inch pieces of
multi-strand wire (NOT coax) in a very heavy insulation running from the SO=239
down each side of the driven element. I have never seen
part of the beta match perhaps?
http://www.hy-gain.com/pdffiles/TH-3JRS.pdf
GB 73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan
On 7/28/2011 7:03 PM, Rich Arland wrote:
H Gang:
I have a very strange request for info. I inherited a Mosley TH-3jr
tri-bander from Russ, AE4NY. The driven element has two (2) 7ft 3 inch
OK, Gang!!!
I stand corrected...this is a Classic 33!!! And several of you have told me
that this is a capacitive feed system that works very well. I will yield to the
expertise to the group. Don't know why I decided that it was a
TH-3jrsynapse lapse
OK, we are on the right track
If anyone has a surplus K160RX module for the K2 that you're willing to sell,
please contact me privately at K8CN (at) arrl (dot) net. Thanks!
Mike, K8CN
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My TH-3jr does NOT have that wire and it does not appear in the assembly
instructions.
Doug -- K0DXV
On 7/28/11 6:03 PM, Rich Arland wrote:
H Gang:
I have a very strange request for info. I inherited a Mosley TH-3jr
tri-bander from Russ, AE4NY. The driven element has two (2) 7ft 3 inch
Rich,
Wrap the ends of the wire (Actually Coax Center Conductor) with Electrical
tape. As antenna hangs in the heat and cold and does the antenna thing, the
insulation will migrate, leaving a small stub of copper conductor sticking out.
And it is possible to get arcs off of it if you don't
I set out to make four macros so that I could select either of two mics
(CM500 HC4) in either of two modes (contest/DX net/ragchew). This
involves setting mic HI/LO and bias ON/OFF that toggle by a keypress, so you
can't be sure whether you need to do a keypress unless you know the initial
Hi Carl,
I like your idea of a reset-to-known-state command usable with macros.
I'll add this to my list.
tnx
Wayne
N6KR
On Jul 28, 2011, at 10:19 PM, Carl Clawson wrote:
I set out to make four macros so that I could select either of two
mics
(CM500 HC4) in either of two modes
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