Are the SS screws still balck and if so and not painted, what is the finish
please?
73 de M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108, KX3 #???)
--
Dear God, Did you mean for the giraffe to look like that or was it an
accident? -Norma [Children's Letters to God, 1991]
On 8 Dec 2011, at 07:37, Gary VK4FD wrote:
Hello Gentleman,
I put this up in the past. All screws in K3, P3 and KPA500 show signs of
rusting after a few months usage in VR2. I also requested that for this elite
class radio equipment, ss screws should be just a standard provision. In other
words, I would not expect rusting screws in
Excellent, Wayne. You are really listening to the customers - 3 x SO239
sockets.
TNX 73,
Johnny VR2XMC
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
Just finished watching the video on the kx3 and was wondering if the KX3 will
decode cw, psk, and rtty like the K3 does?
Thanks
Gerald - KC6CNN
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Will-KX3-have-decode-for-cw-psk-rtty-tp7073809p7073809.html
Sent from the
Does anyone know just where the KPA500 will soft fault for PWR IN and PWR OUT?
It doesn't seem to be in the manual.
Thanks and 74,
Eric WD6DBM
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:
Tried to send you a email but it says domain is not correct.
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-100-For-Sale-tp6985707p7073835.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
I use my K3 with a KPA500, which means I have PER BAND power settings. Since I
operate mostly CW, to set my station to operate WSPR with automatic band
hopping, I have to go through all six bands and change the MODE and change the
PWR on each band (or change it from PER BAND and then fault the
Back in 2006 a few folks mentioned building KFL1-2 boards for 12 10M. In
a response, N6KR mentioned Given your success on these bands, there's the
possibility of a future KFL1-4H option (H for high bands): a version of
the 4-band K1 module that covers some combination of 10, 12, 15, 17, and
It *WAS* funny! Alas, funny often gets you in trouble in
this neighborhood.
Listen: We're all hams. Thats funny enough in its own
right, just ask my wife!
-lu-w4lt-
===
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2011 15:36:02 -0600
From: n...@n5ge.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft]
Have you tought about the possibility to combine two of the SO-239 connectors
to form a balanced input.
With some relays it is possible to change the configuration in such a way that
say selecting Antenna 1 is SO-239 connector 1, selecting Antenna 2 is SO-239
connector 2, selecting Antenna 3 is
I have a 20 year old RS75M and no problem with the meters. have you tried
tapping them while drawing some current?
Barry W2UP
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/OT-Astron-Power-Supply-Current-Meter-tp7063356p7074264.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list
The SS Screws are painted black. The nuts and lock washers are normal
Stainless color.
Tim Herrick, KQ8M
North Coast Contesters
k...@kq8m.com
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Ferrington,
M0XDF
Sent:
Martin,
Actually, for my part the 3 SO-239 connectors offer the greatest
flexibility. If a user uses open wire feeders, he likely already has a
balun connected to those feeders. To move that balun inside the tuner
makes no sense to me. In fact, I have an MFJ 962D tuner that I removed
the
I believe the K3 SS screw kit has enough stainless screws that it could
be used on the KPA500 and the P3 as well. Most of the external screws
are the same size. I will admit that some of the screws on the bottom
of the KPA500 are longer, but you might be able to replace many of the
screws on
You think the screws on the K3 get rusted, you ought to see the screws
on the MFJ antenna analyzer after a week on C6.
Fred KE7X
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W0MU Mike
Fatchett
Sent: Wednesday, December
If anyone has an extra four band module I'd be interested in purchasing it
from you.
Please reply off line. 72, Jim Rodenkirch, K9JWV
rodenkirch_...@msn.com
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/WTB-K1-Four-Band-module-tp7074361p7074361.html
Sent from the
Hello Gentleman,
All the screws in K3, P3 and KPA500 show signs of rusting after two months in
VR2. I trust the provision of SS screws as a kind of standard provision (not
optional) should have minimal effects on the costings.
The picture of my shack shown in www.qrz.com shows the
I was just gifted with an old Velleman PCS64i that interfaces to a computer
through the parallel port. I have been able to obtain the instruction manual
from Velleman's website, but the software is no longer available.
Wondering if anyone out there happens to have it and would be willing to
I agree with most of the others, SS need to be the standard. These
rigs are expensive. Top of the line rigs and amps should not be rusting
away after a week.
Mike W0MU
W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
On 12/8/2011 6:56 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
I believe the K3 SS screw kit has enough stainless
Not sure if this is what your looking for -
http://linux.softpedia.com/downloadTag/Velleman+PCS64i
I just googled it
73 de M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108, KX3 #???)
On 8 Dec 2011, at 15:25, Jim Sheldon wrote:
Velleman PCS64i
__
Elecraft
Yes.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
KC6CNN wrote:
...wondering if the KX3 will decode cw, psk, and rtty like the K3
does?
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Or how about polished brass? I dunno which would cost less.
73, Mike NF4L
On 12/8/2011 10:26 AM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
I agree with most of the others, SS need to be the standard. These
rigs are expensive. Top of the line rigs and amps should not be rusting
away after a week.
Mike
I wonder which sdr software, if any, might work and give control with the new
kx3?
Reggie k6xr
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 6694 (20111208) __
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
http://www.eset.com
__ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 6694 (20111208) __
The message
We will also be putting up a K3 Remote page on the Elecraft page shortly
with app notes, FAQ etc.
Elecraft will also be offering the Remoterig boxes and matching K3
cables for sale on our web page shortly, along with a K3/0 control rig
(no RF inside). Stay tuned!
73, Eric
www.elecraft.com
I do not believe that the SS kit was available when I first ordered
however I could be mistaken. If a company is building a reputation of
top quality products why would they want to skimp on screws that rust
after a few days in a high humidity/salt air environment. If I had any
inclination
Wayne,
When I talked to you briefly at the 2010 Pacificon, you seemed to say that the
KAT500 would be a floating-L design. That is, it would contain an unbalanced
L network, but that network and its circuit board would be floating and not
connected to the metal enclosure. You said a balun
The balun needed on the output of an unbalanced tuner to accommodate an
balanced feedline is no more than an appropriately designed common mode
choke.
http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf excellent practical
descriptions, tests of real implementations and cookbook recommendations.
It is a common misconception that a 4:1 balun is the best choice to feed a
tuned balanced
line. The assumption is often made that this is appropriate because the
characteristic
impedance of ladder line or open-wire line is higher than the 50-ohm coax
that's connected
to the balun's input.
I t's been shown conclusively that an unbalanced 'floating' tuner with a balun
on the
input does not provide better balance than one with the balun on the output.
Yes, I know
that there is such a tuner in the ARRL handbook and Alpha is manufacturing one.
But the
math doesn't lie. So unless
You're right, Vic. We'll be posting in greater detail on this topic
shortly.
Wayne
N6KR
On Dec 8, 2011, at 9:22 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
I t's been shown conclusively that an unbalanced 'floating' tuner
with a balun on the
input does not provide better balance than one with the balun on the
G'day,
Anyone using an USBRS232 interface between the PC an P3/K3 combo. I'm
particularly thinking something like the microHAM Digi Keyer.
I assume the P3 doesn't need any of the RS232 signals other than TX and
RX and can therefore accept the RS232 out of the Digi Keyer which would
Check the archives but I believe this is something you do not want to do.
Mike W0MU
W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
On 12/8/2011 10:27 AM, Mike Harris wrote:
G'day,
Anyone using an USBRS232 interface between the PC an P3/K3 combo. I'm
particularly thinking something like the microHAM Digi
Hi Oliver,
Sorry to disappoint you. Here's what happened:
We originally planned a floating L-network with an input balun, and
that's how we wired the prototypes. But recently we studied this
configuration in depth, doing both a theoretical analysis and lab
measurements. We confirmed the
My KPA500 has developed a heat expansion pop. When it heats up and
then cools down I get a pop from inside the amp. It does this now
every time I make a SSB transmission.
Anyone else experience this? If so, any resolution?
Joe N9VX
__
Well, I must admit I'm a little bit disappointed... It was said some time in
August, the KAT500 would have a built-in balun on the *input* side. And one
of two outputs switchable between balanced and unbalanced. Now we'll had to
add a balun at the output, which arguably is suboptimal.
On the other
All stations must be contacted from the same DXCC entity.
So, does this really mean that a DX contact I make from anywhere in
the lower 48 will count towards the same DXCC award?
The wording is pretty obvious, but I guess I always assumed it was
otherwise. Now that I'm close to applying for
Yes that is what it means.
On 12/8/11 10:42 AM, K1FFX wrote:
All stations must be contacted from the same DXCC entity.
So, does this really mean that a DX contact I make from anywhere in
the lower 48 will count towards the same DXCC award?
The wording is pretty obvious, but I guess I always
* On 2011 08 Dec 11:31 -0600, Mike Harris wrote:
G'day,
Anyone using an USBRS232 interface between the PC an P3/K3 combo. I'm
particularly thinking something like the microHAM Digi Keyer.
I don't know about the MicroHam, but a standard adapter should work
fine. Some are more RF quiet than
I run a microHam DigiKeyer II with a P3/K3 combo with no problems at all.
-
73, Stan - KR7C
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-K3-tp7075106p7075271.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
I've not heard it.
What gets warm during a transmission is, of course, the RF module heat sink.
The RF module is supported by screws into the heat sink on both sides - one
side going into an aluminum Z bracket that runs down the center of the
KPA500 and the other side is secured to the right
I received the kit for K3 #5642 last July. I'm rather slow, but
careful, and I did not work my first QSO until a few days ago (Dec. 5).
The radio is only built to the 10w stage. I still need to install the
100w amp, subreceiver, and 2m transverter. I'm impressed with the
quality of the kit
On Thu, 2011-12-08 at 14:27 -0300, Mike Harris wrote:
G'day,
Anyone using an USBRS232 interface between the PC an P3/K3 combo. I'm
particularly thinking something like the microHAM Digi Keyer.
I assume the P3 doesn't need any of the RS232 signals other than TX and
RX and can therefore
I can attest to what Vic says. I have an 88-foot long doublet, hung about 45
feet up, fed with 85 feet of 600-ohm ladder line. At the shack end I have a 1:1
balun, and then about six feet of RG/8X running to the K3. The K3's tuner likes
the combination. I tried replacing the 1:1 balun with a
While you're inside the amp, make sure that the transformer is secure and
snug (tighten the bolts if needed, reset the washer and retighten). The
pitch of the pop may be a clue as to what is happening (big thump/tiny pop;
deep/high pitched etc.).
The transformer and amp module are the only two
Many thanks to all who replied. It is as I suspected but without a P3
schematic I thought it wise to ask.
The point about not trying to update P3/K3 firmware through a microHAM
interface is understood.
Regards,
Mike VP8NO
__
Vic,
Deja vu -- Seems like we had just discussed this on the AMPS list! In this
case, I'm with you on keeping the balun external to the tuner. That gives
the user an option of installing the balun of their choice immediately after
the tuner, or remotely through a short section of
Mine pops or clicks too.
In my case, it sounds like a relay switching. I thought at first it was
something sensing the temperature and changing the fan speed, but the pop
doesn't (often) coincide with a change in fan speed, so I think that's a red
herring.
Another ZL told me his KPA does the
Hi Don.
I think you misunderstood me, because with my suggestion you will have 3 SO-239
conectors, but you have the choise to use two of them for a ballanced feeder.
That should give anybody a good flexibility.
Martin Storli
LA8OKA
Oslo, Norway
ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages!
Gary,
That sounds like what I am hearing, thought it was a relay controlling
the fan, but as you said, it did not pop when the fan came on/off.
Joe N9VX
-
Mine pops or clicks too.
In my
Thanks,
This is exactly what I need! There is only unbalanced coax in my shack.
73
Arie PA3A
Op 8-12-2011 2:22, Wayne Burdick :
We originally had two antenna jacks on the KAT500, with one of them
switchable between balanced and unbalanced.
Recently we decided that a third antenna jack
Hear's a link to Roy Lewallen's paper on the ineffective input balun. He
mentions Tom Rausch, W8JI who got to this conclusion first.
http://www.eznec.com/misc/ibalbrf.txt
Chuck, KE9UW
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
From: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com
Actually, it seems to me that an antenna tuner is needed because SWR
is high, and if SWR is high, there are extra losses in the
feedline. The lowest cost low loss feeder is open line, and a
balanced input to the tuner would be useful.
Dick, WO1I
At 10:48 PM 12/8/2011, Arie Kleingeld PA3A
I finished building a K3 for the radio club at work and I thought I'd take
the bull by the horns and attempt to improve the factory setting for the 5w
calibration on the 100w Bird watt meter I had. I couldn't get it to go up
the the point that looked like 5w on the meter regardless of how much I
Wayne,
Not to distract you from your work (which we want to you to finish), but can
you discuss the plans for interfacing the KAT500 into the K line?
Will it share a currently used serial chain or ACC port?
Will it be controllable via the K3 panel? Including all antenna switching?
Will the
Hello all,
The internal tuner on my K3 works great. It's much better than I expected.
However I've noticed something unexpected, so I'll ask the list(s).
I've cleared the tuner memories (K3_EZ) and have gone to often used
frequencies (local 75 meter nets for example) activated the tuner,
From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a 100W element leads to
very inaccurate readings. The Bird is most accurate when the reading is
as near to full scale as possible. That means a 5W HF element (is that
even available?) would be ideal provided no more than 5W is put through
the meter.
My K2 has become my primary field radio for activations in Summits On
The Air and I really have no need for the KPA 100 100W amp and KAT100
100W autotuner anymore. I thought I'd offer them here first.
The KPA100 is the K2-installed version replacing the standard K2 top.
Takes about 3 mins, at
A 100 MHz oscilloscope is an accurate way to measure RF power on the HF
bands. Just connect it in parallel with the dummy load and use W3FPR's
formula:
P = E^2 / 400
Where P is the power in watts and E is the peak-to-peak voltage read on
the oscilloscope.
Alan N1AL
On Thu, 2011-12-08 at
Tom,
OK, it seems now is a good time for me to insert my periodic wattmeter
accuracy rant! Sub-titled -- Technician, know your tools but know
even better their limitations OR - No instrument can be relied on
until it has proven it is capable of telling the truth under the
conditions of use.
It seems to me that the story is more complex than it sounds.
The input balun always works at low SWR and at 50 Ohm. It is very easy to
have such balun. A small balun would easily handle a KW without heating.
The output balun can work at high complex impedances. Ferrite baluns are
known to
Natale
Try
BW0040;SWT48;SWT13;SWT13;UPB4;SWH11;BW$0280;SWT11;
I don't have a subreceiver, so I can't test it fully. I think it was the BSET
that
was confounding you. (SWH11 SWT11)
73, Mike NF4L
On 12/7/2011 12:32 PM, Natale Borghetti wrote:
It is several days.probably I am to
Hi Ignacy,
This is a common misconception. (One which I held until recently. :-) It
turns out there is no advantage to placing the balun at the input of the
L-Network tuner. Since one end of the balun is grounded by the input to
the tuner, it is still presented with the same stresses under
Reggie,
A good question. SDR programs need a driver for interfacing SDR
hardware so it will depend on development support for drivers. But
there are an increasing number of SDR programs to chose
from. Sometimes drivers created for other SDR can be used if they
share the same hardware chip
RR
The amp was totally silent for the first few weeks of its life. The clicks
only started happening after a mains brown-out here (the mains went down and
back up several times in rapid succession as they tried to clear a fault in
the local grid, I guess). I wondered if that event might have
Don:
I would add a small caution. The maximum safe voltage rating of a 10x
probe is a function of frequency.
For example, Tektronix's model P6106A, a 250 MHz 10x probe, is rated at
450V below 1 MHz, but only 60V at 10 MHz and perhaps 50V at 30 MHz (hard
to read the graph accurately). All are
On 12/8/2011 1:54 PM, Dick Lindzen wrote:
Actually, it seems to me that an antenna tuner is needed because SWR
is high, and if SWR is high, there are extra losses in the
feedline.
The mismatch that affects feedline loss is the match between the antenna
and the feedline. Thus, an antenna tuner
I found time to run a few 2 tone IMD tests with my K3 and KPA500
combination today, these were on 80m using a 50 Ohm Cantenna load with the
spectrum measurements taken with a Microtelecom Perseus SDR. The SDR
receiver was coupled via a loop of wire around the coax to the Cantenna.
The two tones
This is of interest to me, because in my first experiences with antenna
forums (or was it newsgroups at the time), I recall a lot of exchanges
with Tom W8JI on exactly the balun at the tuner input and isolated
unbalanced tuner. I concur with Tom - it does not work -- both from a
theoretical
Yes, my KPA500 has been doing the same. Whenever I mention it here on the
reflector, I get zero response. I cannot tell whether this is a problem or
something that is normal. The pops are very frequent regardless of mode.
Otherwise, the amp appears to function normally.
Dave, N4QS
-
Thanks Jack for that additional information and caution.
I believe that is an accuracy limitation for the probe specs, and not a
probe damage rating.
I routinely leave my 'scope probe connected to the dummy load at the
workbench and it is subjected routinely to powers up to 180 watts.
I use
Is it true that the efficiency of a balun is not affected by the impedance
of the line in which it is used?
The justification I had seen for putting the balun at the tuner input where
it will see a load very close to 50 ohms resistive (when the tuner is
adjusted for a match) while at the output
I have never heard a pop in mine nor in N1NK's in J6.
Mike W0MU
W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
On 12/8/2011 5:21 PM, Dave Perry wrote:
Yes, my KPA500 has been doing the same. Whenever I mention it here on the
reflector, I get zero response. I cannot tell whether this is a problem or
Imagine choke constructed with RG174 looped through a toroid 10 times. Also
imagine output resitstance 2500 Ohms and 100W power.
On input, RG174 has a peak voltage of 100V. No problem.
On output, RG174 has a peak voltage of 1000V. It would melt in seconds.
What is wrong here? Assumptions?
On Thu, Dec 8, 2011 at 5:31 PM, Edward R. Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:
...SDR programs need a driver for interfacing...
==
If I understand it correctly, the KX3 puts out I-Q audio that can go
directly into a sound card, and has an RS232 port that can go directly to a
CAT connection
On a previous post I included three links which if read would lead you to
the conclusion that a common choke on the output of the unbalanced tuner
of sufficient impedence would ensure that all of the current on the
interior of the shield of the coax and on the center conductor would be
present on
Ron,
Yes, that is valid justification for putting the balun at the tuner
input, BUT it ignores the physics of the tuner itself. If the tuner is
actually a balanced design, I have no problem, but many try to force fit
an unbalanced tuner design after the balun. That latter part is the
part
On Dec 8, 2011, at 6:47 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
Virtually all the loss in transmission lines at HF (and even VHF) is due
to copper (that is, I squared R). Open wire line (and window line) has
much lower loss than coax because it has much higher impedance, so the
current for the same transmit
I ordered a K2 today. Can someone tell me a specific vendor and solder that
would be good to use. I was also wondering if anyone has a good idea for a
cheap magnifying lamp. I have the static mat and strap from my K1 build.
Anything else I might need?
73
Don
K4YND
--
View this message in
W8JI and other sites assume that the balun is lossless except for common
mode. Also that voltage breakage is unimportant. Both are good
approximations when the balun is large and wound by thick wire or with
teflon cable.
Assume we use RG174 for windings. We have SWR 1:1 on input and 25:1 with
I learned the hard way that power handling capability of scope probes is
frequency-dependent. I blew TWO of mine trying to measure 100w on 28 mHz. (no,
one lesson
is not enough for me). So check the ratings of your probes before you try this
with more
than QRP power!
On 12/8/2011 3:09 PM,
Ken,
Actually, the feedpoint impedance for a half wave center fed dipole is
70 ohms if it is in the clear. The proximity to earth and other
physical objects will lower that impedance. For antennas typically used
at HF, yes, the feedpoint impedance will be closer to 50 ohms than the
ideal of
Don,
Yes, I know, that's why I said at the proper height.
73, Ken WA8JXM
On Dec 8, 2011, at 8:49 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Ken,
Actually, the feedpoint impedance for a half wave center fed dipole is 70
ohms if it is in the clear. The proximity to earth and other physical
objects will
Happens here a lot . Amp doesn't have to warm up much. This symptom also
didn't exist when the amp was new but started during long use in contest
weekend
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Heat-Expansion-Pop-tp7075132p7076683.html
Sent from the Elecraft
All,
I don't have the noise you describe, but it's logical to me that if the bolt
that goes through the center of the transformer has any slack in it, it might
cause a click or thump when cooling or heating. That may be why Elecraft used
the bell washer under the bolt head to allow expansion
Actually a dipole free space impedance is 73 ohms. Free space impedance is
377.008 ohms. Yes surroundings lower dipole impedance, but also temperature and
humidity has an affect on impedance
George, W3GF
Love my two K3s
__
Elecraft
I have two mobile setups with IC-7000 radios. One has the GAP and the
other the West Mountain. These speakers DSP is primarily in the audio
range and helps with hiss and allows less radio DSP to be used.
In a mobile environment where you need an amplified speaker these are
both good
I read the W8JI comments presented in that link on the Elecraft website.
I was familiar with Tom's work and comments from emailing with him on
this particular subject many years ago.
The one thing that struck me in W8JI's paper is at the end and embodied
in Tom's comment that --
The irony
Same symptoms here ... what sounds like a relay click when warm, but
doesn't appear to correspond to fan speed change, although it often
seemed like there was one click a few seconds after starting to TX
(RTTY), and another click a few seconds after returning to RX.
The firmware is linked at:
Trivia related to this thread ... The lowest power HF element
available from Bird is 50W FS.
Don's precautions are spot-on.
73! Ken - K0PP
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:
That's the point, as Don pointed out: sufficient impedance. A normal rule
of thumb is to have choking impedance 10X the line impedance. That's easy if
you have a 50 Ohm line, such as the input to the tuner. It's quite a
different story if the line impedance is 1000 or 2000 ohms, such as can
happen
The links I provided show how to do just that including test data to back
it up. Google k9yc, w9cf
jim ab3cv
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
There's a simple way to look at this that requires no high-level math or
complicated analysis.
__
I1 -- | | | | I3 --
| |--| |---
Transmitter | BALUN | | TUNER |Antenna
|
Solder: any electronic solder (rosin core) is good. Kester is considered one
of the top o' the line. Another I have is Tech Spray. I'd avoid
lead-free solder - it requires more heat to make a good joint. I still use
good old 60/40. Probably a bigger issue is to avoid really large diameter
solder
Hi all,
Also getting the pop here.. I thought it may be a thermal cut-out rather than a
relay...
fortunately, it doesn't affect how the KPA500 performs!
Cheers,
Paul
On 9/12/2011 12:21 a.m., Dave Perry wrote:
Yes, my KPA500 has been doing the same. Whenever I mention it here on the
I have the Elecraft TWIN setup working with the Microbit control and
remote boxes. The instructions in the Micorbit RRC-1258 MII manual are
pretty good. The URL is www.remoterig.com. The one thing that is not
clear IMHO is the last line of the setup for the K3 TWIN:
COM2 Mode listed as Logical
Nothing heard here at all.
No hum, no buzz, no pops, just good clean rf power.
73 de
Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
East Innisfail
QLD, Australia
K3 #4257, P3#1629, KPA-500 #161
- Original Message -
From: Joe Word joe.n...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2011
Those having problems with KPA 500 popping have you tried setting the fan to
speed 3 on the amp? This speed is not very noisy at all and may prevent the
popping.
Toby W4CAK
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
OK.Try setting the fan speed to a setting of 1 or perhaps 2. Three may be
a bit noisy for some.
Toby W4CAK
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Nothing heard here...quiet operation, all bandsHm
Ah, now back to the Cricket...:-)
Gary
VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!
- Original Message -
From: Toby Pennington
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday,
1 - 100 of 107 matches
Mail list logo
