80. KAT3 will match it on 160, haven't tried to make any Q's there yet. Works
great everywhere else considering it's strung on the 6' fence.
Fred K6DGWTDY in Socal (softball)
Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
Original message
From: Jim Brown
Hi Jeff! Nice to see you on the Elecraft board. I have one question about the
Turnigy Accucel 6 Balance Charger. I note that it can charge LiPos. Does it
have the standard modular connector for LiPo batteries? This is usually located
on the side of most LiPo chargers that I'm aware of. I
I'm looking at the K2 schematic at the components on the Control Board that set
the AGC time constant, and I can't understand how the fast setting gets its
time constant... the parts involved, C4 and R2, appear to have a very long
time, much longer than necessary for the FST settting.
If you
But Morgan, how many KX2s will fit inside your
roller inductor? Seems a bit of an overkill for
QRP ops :-)
73, Phil W7OX
On 7/14/16 8:34 PM, Morgan Bailey wrote:
A few years ago I built a parallel LC network from a roller inductor and a
variable cap rated for approximately 2.5kv and have
On Thu,7/14/2016 2:54 PM, Fred C. Jensen wrote:
I use an EFHW on 80-10, no dedicated counterpoise, no coax length rqmts.
On what frequency is it a halfwave? :)
73, Jim
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A few years ago I built a parallel LC network from a roller inductor and a
variable cap rated for approximately 2.5kv and have used it to match 20 meter
EFHW many times. I run 500 watts into it from the kpa500 through a choke balun
in the shack. I use (5) 8 foot radials for a counterpoise and I
Keep in mind that the original End Fed Half Wave antenna was the
original Zepp antenna.
A halfwave radiator that was fed from one side of a quarter wave
transmission line.
That antenna was trailed from a Zeppelin airship. The 1/4 wave
transmission line reduced the high impedance of the
Dave,
Most of the commercial end fed halfwave antennas are designed for low
power (100 watts and under). So the use of the coax shield as the
counterpoise element is not a big problem in most cases.
Add to that, the EFHW is an easy solution for portable operation - an
easy up effective
I totally agree. End-fed half waves are tweaky. One terminal is the antenna
wire and the other terminal must be something. The RF will find something to
drive as the other “pole” of the antenna. There are no monopole antennas.
It could be the outside of the coax, it could be a “counterpoise”
Yup ... that all makes sense. The counterpoise as described by that
link is at the antenna where it should be, and it compensates for the
fact that the network can't produce an infinitely high impedance feed.
I stand corrected.
Using the coax for a "counterpoise" is a really bad idea,
OK, I can buy that ... except that the term "ground reference" as used
by you and Don doesn't really apply. The counterpoise is simply
providing some minimal balance to the high impedance at the end of the
EFHW, and it doesn't need to have anything to do with "ground".
If the counterpoise
Dave,
All that is theoretical does not translate directly to the physical world.
Take a look at http://www.aa5tb.com/efha.html for more information.
The counterpoise does not need to be very long, but it does need to be
present.
If the coupling between the high impedance side of the matching
Brian,
I just added the KIO3B, KXV3B, and KBPF3A mods. As per W3FPR, Don's advise,
I did the KXV3B first, then the KIO3B, then the KBPF3A. I don't have the
KAT3A, but I do have a K3/100, with ATU, internal 2 mtr xvtr, and the 2nd
receiver.
Had to take off top cover, remove 2 mtr xvtr, 2nd rcvr,
Brian,
Those are in physically different areas of the K3, so I don't think the
order is significant.
If you have the KRX3 installed, I would suggest adding the KBPF3A first
(don't forget the added capacitor to the regulator output), and then
leave the KRX3 assembly out until you have
The transmitter needs to drive into two terminals. That is how electricity
works. If you do not provide a ground or a capacitive RF ground (counterpoise),
the ground is the chassis of the transmitter. In a big grounded shack, that
might be a stable reference. Otherwise, you need to provide a
My KX2 arrived today. :-) I quickly put my Gemsproducts side plates on so
that the knobs and shiny new bezel would stay retain that new-radio-luster.
With the plates on, I was pleased to see that it easily fit into a molle
water bottle pouch with enough additional room for the mike and coiled
I use an EFHW on 80-10, no dedicated counterpoise, no coax length rqmts.
However, NEC2 doesn't like a source at the open end of a wire so to model it, I
have to put some counterpoise on the wire. Length not critical, 5-10 ft is fine.
73,
Fred K6DGW
David Gilbert
Hi Dave,
There’s really no advantage unless you’re looking to have more control
over battery maintenance. My personal preference is to have a maximum
amount of control over the maintenance of my batteries. This means
charge monitoring *with digital readout from the charger) that’s
I'm confused why an EFHW should need a counterpoise. If it needs a
counterpoise it isn't actually acting like an EFHW. If it needs a
counterpoise that means there isn't enough choking impedance at the
feedpoint, and it means that the feedline is radiating with the
counterpoise acting as
Hi Tom
Looking forward to hearing about your results!
Tom Azlin W7SUA wrote
> Good question. I ordered one and will find out when I try to put it in.
> I could find no instructions but have not written back to see if they
> have any.
>
> 73, tom w7sua
73
-
Sverre, LA3ZA
K2 #2198, K3
If anyone is interested in buying my PigKnob - contact me off list.
Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Post:
I am unable to recall any of the saved message memories .
F key and Alt Fkey do nothing
CTLFkey and ShiftFkey send me to boot screen.
Reloaded last version and working as before.
--
View this message in context:
They're kind of spread out so I don't thinking makes much difference.
Download the various assembly manuals and see if there are two or more that
need common panels/parts unassembled and do those at the same time.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Jul 14, 2016, at 4:10 PM, Brian F
When the K3S first came out, I ordered the new synthesizer boards for my K3,
and they installed easily and worked great.
I also ordered the KXV3B, KAT3A and the KBPF3A. I am just now getting ready
to install these. Does anybody have advice on the best order to install them?
Or any
Andy,
What happens if you connect to a dummy load? Does the KX2 tune it
properly?
If so, then you know the KX2 is operating into a 50 ohm load OK.
Do you have an antenna analyzer? If so, then connect it to the antenna
feedline and look at the impedance - both real and reactive - as well as
W4TV and W3FPR got me down the right path.
I forgot that it is a pulse on RS232 pin1. Got the scope out and it is fine.
Thanks Don. Got to get me one of those small, lightweight scopes.
I had both transistors in the RS232 shell (FSK keying and PTT) and when I
opened the shell it looked like I
Do you have a “counterpoise” wire? An EFHW can be very sensitive to nearby
objects without that.
Another approach is to use an end-fed non-resonant wire. Just yesterday with my
KX3, I was using a 26 foot wire thrown in a tree and a 16 foot wire laid on the
ground. An end-fed half wave has a
Andy,
Is your KX2 receiving or is the problem just with TX?
It sounds like you replaced the end panels with
the 3rd party option. Did you try the KX2 before
doing that?
73, Phil W7OX
On 7/14/16 11:40 AM, Andy Clift wrote:
Just received my KX2, but unable to get it to tune an EFHW wire.
Just received my KX2, but unable to get it to tune an EFHW wire. I’ve tried a
home made one and then tried a SOTABEAMS MultiBander that I’ve used
successfully with an FT-857. I’ve checked the continuity in the wire and also
the continuity in the KX2 between the BNC connector and where the wire
> There is a known bug with the macro import feature. As a work around,
> after the macros
> have been exported to a file, you will need to rename the file
> "px3macro.txt" to "macros.txt" .
This is what's referred to as an "undocumented feature". This feature
allows the user to save /
There is a known bug with the macro import feature. As a work around, after
the macros have been exported to a file, you will need to rename the file
"px3macro.txt" to "macros.txt" .
Also, the PX3 does not support flash drives that have been formatted using
NTFS, you must use FAT or FAT32.
I have a 10M vertical made of 1/2" copper water pipe with a
ground plane of aluminum window screen. It works reasonably
well. One piece of advice is to sweat or otherwise ensure good
contact in all joints that should be connected in the antenna.
Ask me how I know. :-)
73 Bill AE6JV
On
All along I have been using COM 1 on my PC for FSK keying. I have
been using pin 3 to Pin 1 on the Acc K3 socket. I have not used Pin
7 (PTT) to Pin 4 on the K3.
I trust you have been using an NPN transistor between the RS-232 output
(+/- 9V) of the serial port and the TTL input (0 to +5V) of
Tony,
If the com port pin stays at -9volts, then the COM port is not "doing
its thing".
I trust you used a 'scope to look measure it. A DMM will not likely
respond quickly enough to see the positive going pulses.
Try another COM port.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/14/2016 10:45 AM, N2TK, Tony wrote:
I am having brain freeze. I must have changed something but not sure what.
Both K3's had been working fine on FSK using MMTTY for years. I can still
receive fine, but I can't transmit on either.
I am using LP Bridge which is talking fine to either K3.
When I hit Xmit in MMTTY the program shows
Ah. I suppose Elecraft might cover issues beyond a year for original owners,
for for a used unit, you pay the rate/parts. What was your experience, if you
don't mind me asking. Best regards, Bret aka Charles Jessee KC1CJN --
Original Message -- From: Elecraft mailing list [via Elecraft]
I've been monitoring this list for similar threads now for a bit now as my
situation is close to Maverick's. I love my K2, but after having played
with some online sets via WebSDR.org and learning some basics on using a
panadapter has only piqued my interest to getting a newer set. Data modes
> On Jul 14, 2016, at 7:17 AM, MaverickNH wrote:
>
> The used K3/P3 option is attractive, but I miss out on the "Next Generation"
> hardware and add some risk for used equipment. Past the 1 year warranty, I'm
> only trusting the owner that "as is" is fully functional.
>
Hi Joel,
For pain point #1: I set up two macros accessible via the same PF key on
the KX3. The last couple of macro commands setup a toggle on each macro
line. Makes switching between SSB and Digital very easy/fast with the
press of one button. I offer the two macros for your consideration.
Let me add a little to the fray then.
Up to recently, I had both the K3/P3 combo *and* a KX3. I sold the K3/P3 and
added a PX3 to the KX3. I am looking to add the KXPA100 sooner or later.
My K3 had a lot of options:
100 W amp
2nd receiver
BPF on the 1st receiver
500 Hz CW filters in both
Summarizing some great offline feedback I'm getting, I can see a few options
emerging:
1. Get a loaded K3S/P3
2. Get a loaded KX3/PX3/KXPA100 system
3. Get a loaded/used K3/P3, which "beats" a KX3 system used for a base, at
about the cost of a KX3 system
4. Get a "limited" K3S/P3 system, which is
Hi,
today I got my K-Pod and I was only able to test it with the K3/0-Mini right
now. But I get a few issues:
* Tuning with the K-Pod very slowly works fine. Tuning at normal
rate, I guess I can go for about five ticks and then it stucks. Normal Knob
on the K3/0-Mini continues
Great job, Paul. I tested all of the new features this evening (and early
morning) and have sent you detailed test results.
I would like to highlight one feature in particular. The new PX3 #MAA and
#MBA commands control the PX3 markers. These commands can be assigned to a
remote knob such as
I built one using 1/2-inch electrical conduit (steel) and clamped
each half to a 1-inch thick board with conduit clamps ran coax to the
dipole an trimmed length to get good SWR. I assume you know how to
calculate a half wavelength (cut the tubing about 2-inches long so
you have some material
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