Bob/AB5N wrote of an antenna for the KX1:
I believe the criteria for an excellent antenna will be as follows:
1. Will match up well using the internal tuner on all four bands.
2. Has enough metal in the air to provide adequate microvolts to
the RX - to make it function well without being
David wrote:
My K1 has a KBT1 an Internal battery Adapter and I have 4
rechargeable batteries at my own. What could be better, buy more
rechargeable batteries or a small battery, however bigger than AA
batteries, to operate with ?
I have a ten-year-old K1. I used the KBT1 for about 18
Ron wrote:
...ships use SSB on the HF bands for long distance communications
- both voice and data - on frequencies right in between the bands
were us Hams play on HF.
The Safety of Life at Sea protocols never depend solely on satellite
communications.
Many hams, even the the days of
Chip wrote:
While a ship's master may choose to prohibit your use of a QRP rig
on board,
He *definitely* has that authority. In fact, what is very questionable
is his authority to *allow* ham operation. It doesn't matter that QRP
is to be used.
the likelihood of it actually interfering
Doug wrote:
I'm trying to select 10.1 as B2. But this band isn't an option;
just 10.0.
Doug,
When you see that 10.0 in the LCD, PRESS AND HOLD DISPLAY (BAND) key.
You'll see the LCD change to 10.1. Release key. You've just set
10.1 for b2.
If you PRESS AND HOLD it again and the display
Doug wrote:
One other thing: I really wish Wayne and Eric would peal off one of
their talented junior engineers and design a K0. (K zero). A single
band superhet with 2-3 watts out and super compact.
So...maybe a K0-15 for 15 meters. I like that concept.
Before the K1 became available in
Guy quoted an excerpt from Doug:
One other thing: I really wish Wayne and Eric would peal off one of
their talented junior engineers and design a K0. (K zero). A single
band superhet with 2-3 watts out and super compact.
What is there not super compact about a KX1?
You have asked me about
I just wrote:
I could be very content with a KX0-15, in my pipe dream!
One thing I should emphasize is that any viable design that would
interest me *must* utilize PIC/DDS technology, just like the KX1
and the SWL DSW. I'm not interested in going back to *any* of
the old crystal and L-C
Great to see K1s are still popular. I'm looking to get a K1 or a Kx1.
I was not sure how well the K1s were selling. Can you tell me why
you selected the K1 rather than the Kx1?
I ordered my K1 after seeing the prototype at Dayton 2000. It was delivered
(S/N 175) in late November, 2000. In
Enough with the Maxwell Equations What in the world does this
represent to the average K3 user? .
Perhaps the discussion means more to K1, K2, or KX1 users. :-)
But...point taken: This is the Ninty-Five-Percent K3 List.
Mike / KK5F
So my question should have been how to expand the transmit range to
5260-5410 kHz (the TF allocation)
I was sent privately a link to a file which helped me unlock my K3.
Which, I'm guessing, is considered too dangerous to be made generally
available.
Mike / KK5F
Ron wrote:
There are other differences that are not apparent on the front panel.
No CW keying waveform shaping, for one.
The absolute worst feature of the R4020: Ten-Tec confirmed to me that
the iambic keyer supports mode B only. I will never buy a rig with
iambic keyer that functions in mode
I wrote:
...notice that QST Product Reviews (like the one for the R4020) will
spend a lot of text telling the reader how to do some odd-ball thing
on the rig being reviewed, but will NEVER address iambic keyer mode.
Lew wrote:
So why not write a letter to the editor of QST making this
The meter (Watt's Up) is in the 13.8v line in series with the K3.
This must be a joke, right? April 1 isn't for another ten weeks! :-)
Mike / KK5F
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It was asked if there's a Reason to NOT buy a K3?
Yes, there is. The list that is dedicated ONLY to the K3
(elecraft@mailman.qth.net),
has for several years sometimes (almost one every several hundred K3 postings),
been
disrupted by a posting about non-K3 topics.
How rude! :-)
Mike / KK5F
Who is this K3ESD guy? He's not in the call database!
Mike / KK5F
:-)
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This
Ron wrote:
For emergency use, the famous Gibson Girl hand-cranked lifeboat
transmitter only put out about 5 watts amplitude-modulated CW (MCW) on 500
kHz and had, under the most ideal conditions, an end fed wire 100 or 200
feet long (attached to a box kite or balloon). Frequently it was much,
Why not just use an outboard amp. when you feel you need more power?
The need more power approach to portable QRP operation is nonsense.
What is needed for QRP operation is a DECENT antenna. Not an expensive
antenna, just a decent antenna. Something like a resonant dipole that can
be built for
Guido wrote:
...it turned out that wrong toroid was supplied for T4 with the kit.
...At Elecraft they are aware of this.
One would have thought that Elecraft should have issued a notice about
a problem such as this which can cause real damage and waste great effort
for troubleshooting if 80m
I finally got a chance to search for the list posting by Eric that
stated Elecraft's warranty repair policy if IC sockets are added by
a customer. It was posted more than seven years ago.
Below Eric's concise posting is my longer-winded comment made at that
time.
- Original Message -
Eric wrote of adding IC sockets on his K1:
Is it OK to install the IC sockets...
No. It is *never* permissible to install IC sockets in an Elecraft rig
where the designers and the manual did not specify a socket. Elecraft
has stated that warranty repair of problems caused by that will not
be
Alexey wrote of IC socket use where Elecraft did not specify it:
I don't think there will be any problem...
That statement is definitely NOT correct. IC socket use where not
absolutely required is very bad, amateur, sophmoric engineering.
Do so and Elecraft will not repair the problems that
Gary wrote:
I have a K1 with atu and stand, but not the right antenna. Anyone have
experience with the buddistick? I only use 20 and 40 meters.
I've been experimenting with portable antennas for backpack operations
on camping trips for more than 30 years. I compare the various types
side by
Someone wrote:
Try 30 meters in the evening times..snip..Sure would like to work you some
time.
No doubt a name and a call sign would be useful for an on-the-air
QSO, even if that courtesy isn't extended on a ham mailing list.
Mike / KK5F
Gary Hvizdak wrote:
You can read the full text of Alan's post in the Reflector archives at
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2008-February/083794.html
Fred wrote:
Ingenious test set up Alan used to measure 1.0E10 ohms.
I must be missing something in the test description. Wouldn't
John/VK7JB wrote:
About the ACG response time mod : changing C31 to a lower value cap (from
2.2uF to 1uF or lower) is mentioned most often...
I've used my K1 (SN 175) for going on ten years, starting with the stock
C31 value of 2.2 uF. Later, I changed to 1 uF. That caused a tremendous
LS wrote:
I decided to go with the K1 ...
Regardless of if you later decide to build a K2, I think you'll like
the K1 enough to keep it too. It's a very nice, very capable, great
performing compact radio. It looks good too.
...with 2 band module...
Now there's where I think you're making a
Byron wrote:
I had removed the KAT1 and moved the RF-DET jumper to K1, but
I had not replaced the J2 jumper between pins 2 and 10!
Well, I'm glad it has worked out OK for you. That's the trouble
with remote troubleshooting...others can't see what alterations
have been made that have nothing to
Byron wrote:
My K1, #2799, build was going along swimmingly until I built
and installed the KNB1 module...now my poor K1 is deaf
Hi Byron,
First, it would likely be best to mark a posting such as yours
with an OT for being clearly off-topic on this All K3, Only K3,
All The Time list! :-)
Byron wrote:
My intention today was to re-calibrate the KFL1-4, so I removed the
KAT1 and moved the RF DET jumper to the K1 side.
Here's just a little bit more information relating to that.
The first sign of the need for re-alignment of a K1 filter board
is a drop in transmitter output power.
What's the bandwidth of that 50 mHz circuit?
It can't be very wide, if the carrier is truely on 50 mHz.
That's 50 milliHertz (0.05 Hertz)!
Mike / KK5F
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Paul wrote:
A mod here ... is fitting a simple internal charger circuit so the batt
pack can be left in situ.
The original cover is also used, with the smaller speaker. Fit is what
could be politely called snug
By original cover I suppose that you actually are refering to the replacement
Steve wrote:
My version of this 'classic' rig is 4-band (40, 30, 30 and 15m)...
A magic combination on 30m, my favourite band.
30m must really *really* be your favo[u]rite, if you have devoted two
of the four bands on the filter board to it!!!:-)
Mike / KK5F
K1 S/N 175
I remember somewhere on the net reading about some mods to make the
K1-NB a little bit more aggressive.
I've never come across anything like that in the almost nine years that I've
had my K1. I've found the KNB1 to be effective on spark-type noise, but
not at all effective on local power line
Curt wrote:
Awhile ago, recall reading some chatter about Elecraft offering a filter
board kit for 20,17,1510 once the sunspots started coming back.
... has anyone successfully configured a 4-band filter for these
bands on their own?
Stephanie/VA3UXB did a lot of work on this mod for both 2-
Gary wrote:
I installed the RF board U2 backwards ... I'm trying to salvage the IC...
I'm sure you've received enough input now to know that any attempt to
salvage such is extremely ill-advised. It's possible to damage the RF board
just removing two-lead components. The same thing applies to
I would not have spent the money on my Etymotics just for listening to
CW, but since they are great for listening to music with great fidelity
while traveling on planes, which is something I do a lot of, I look at it
as a bonus that they will be nice to use in conjunction with my KX-1
once I
The filtering should be done before the audio gets to the headphones.
A low end pair of headphones only acts to cover up flaws in receiver
design.
What an imaginative and creative response! You say in effect that all
those purpose-designed limited frequency response audio devices that
Gene wrote:
Just purchased a K1 ... Full output on 40 and 20 meters. No output on 30 and
15 meters.
That's a bit odd. Normally 40/30m will have problems, or 20/15m due to
slightly different signal
paths through the filter board for those combos. With good output on 40m and
20m, that says
Doug wrote:
I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1.
As far as RF performance only goes, the K1 is, IMHO, clearly superior.
(1) The K1 uses an LC VFO that is cleaner than the direct digital synthesis
frequency generation scheme of the KX1. This reduces transmitter spurious
Sandy wrote, and the information supplied by Elecract seems to imply, that:
The 4 band board can be only used on 40/30/20 and 17 OR 15 meters.
This board is actually more flexible. It can be used on 40m, 30m, and ANY two
of the 20m, 17m, and 15m bands. The assumption that Elecraft makes
was
Phil asked:
PS - how fast was she sending the closing message?
She was sending at a very consistent rate of just over 100 characters
per minute...or a tad more than 20 wpm.
Very impressive skill with a bug!
Boy I miss the maritime Morse bands, especially that magic MF band
of 410 to 518 kcs.
Frank/KD8FIP wrote:
Seems like there are two ways to go. Buddistick vs.
PAC12or random wire with Elecraft T1.
That would be very inaccurate. HF vertical antennas for field use will almost
*never* have a proper and effective ground system. Add to that the losses
of loading
Anthony wrote:
I am building my K1, and have completed the first section of the
build, and am at the DC Voltage check stage on page 30 of the
manual...
If anyone has some ideas for me to try to track down my problem I'd
appreciate it.
AND
Rick wrote:
Interesting. I'm at the same
John wrote:
Looking for light weight and capable of 2-5 W for a few hours.
I calculate 12V 0.4A As far as amp-hours
This is very easy to satisfy. Select ten AA NiMH cells of about
2500 mA-Hr capacity and a ten-cell holder and a quick recharger
and you'll be set with a small light-weight pack
John wrote:
I'll be taking my K1 to the beach this Summer on the OR coast. I'll
be setting up a portable vertical.
Unfortunately, most beach settings quite literaly do not support use of
my favorite portable antenna for my K1...a resonant multi-band dipole.
If you ever intend to operate in
Sandy wrote:
I think the Pogo stick was the SCR-511? Anybody remember?
Yes, Sandy. The Army BC-745 pogo-stick is part of the SCR-511.
The famous Army BC-611 handy-talky you mention is part of the
SCR-536.
The Navy also had low power battery-powered portable MF/HF sets
in the form of the MAB
Don wrote:
... D10 can short if operated for a substantial period into a
high SWR (its purpose is to protect the PA transistor).
If D10 is shorted, it will produce a short on the DC input voltage.
Don,
I believe you mean D19 rather than D10.
Mike / KK5F
Dan wrote:
...hams ... helped me set up the HI-Q-Antenna 380 TAD ... and then we
tried a $5 home made 20M dipole between two trees oer a shed that was
“significantly” louder on both the K2 and Norcal. The NorCal 40A and
K2 are being switched back and forth in the same setting and
Ken wrote:
It seems ... to me anyway ... that attempting to keep MARS
frequencies secret is terribly silly!
It is Monty Python silly. MARS frequency/net information has no
security classification. The only repercussion to MARS frequency
disclosure is aggravation of some folks for whom an aura
Paul wrote:
Around 1969 or 70 I was taught in both code classes offered by a local club
and getting started kinds of books (probably ARRL publications) that QRRR
was a standard distress signal. I remember having the impression that SOS
was old fashion and that QRRR was preferred.
That's one
I wrote:
Its all gone now, except for a few who try to keep memories alive in the
only place where Morse (of some nature) is still in service (the ham bands).
Phil wrote:
Not so, Mike. There are several MF/HF Public Coast Stations still on
the air in the US, using CW and RTTY/SITOR
Dave wrote:
...the CW equivalent of PAN PAN PAN (it should be repeated three
times) is XXX XXX XXX...
Ed wrote:
Never heard of such nonsense
Even those who have decades of ham Morse experience are often
unfamiliar with basic commercial, maritime, or military Morse
usage. Sadly, it's worth
Dave wrote:
Fascinating story
I thought so too. I've been in a similar situation, but fortunately not
so remote from help.
I'd be worried about someone with that kind of injury going into shock.
It seems to me that shock is often psychologically induced. Taking
actions to deal with the
Ron wrote:
Or better pre-selection, such as a high-Q tuned antenna.
Or get something like the US Navy's R-1134/WRR-3, which was on several ships
that I served on 30 years ago. It is mechanically digital tuned, all vacuum
tube, and covers VLF to MF (14 to 600 kHz). It's a real link to maritime
Dave wrote:
I'm about to order a K1 ...
Excellent choice. I bought mine more than eight years ago shortly after
the K1 was introduced, and it remains my favorite QRP rig of all time.
I understand the tuning range can be set to either 75kHz or 150kHz.
My inclination is to go with the 75kHz
Ron wrote:
Every time I write a phrase using _its_ or _it's_ I have to
stop and think about it.
Other very common errors are:
(1) Misuse of your and you're,
(2) Misuse of their and there and they're,
(3) Misuse to and too.
We all make such errors on occasion, but when any individual
native
The K1 can remember settings for 6 bands...
It'll do even better...it stores data for nine bands. The K1 MPU
stores a display calibration adjustment for each ham band that
the K1 MPU allows to be assigned to a filter board. Although
there are only six HF bands provided by Elecraft for the K1
Don wrote:
I can guess that the 'light display/relay chatter' symptom
is a result of the resettable fuse creating an effective
power off/on cycle.
The K1 doesn't use a resettable fuse unless one has been
added unofficially in the power lead, so there's even more
mystery here.
Mike / KK5F
Don wrote:
One thing to check is the seating of the microprocessor in its socket.
... A loose connection to one of the microprocessor will create
many 'strange happenings'.
Steve's problem is a strange one. Something is reseting the MPU PIC.
I'd almost suspect a problem around the 80/30m KFL2
The convention currently in use is merely traditional and reflects
military preference for standardization (due to channelization)
promulgated in the early days of SSB.
LSB use on 40m and below is *strictly* a HAM convention. Military,
commercial marine, and civil aviation standardized on USB
I had a PRC-74 for a good while and finally sold it as there was no LSB.
You're right about it not having LSB, Sandy. I've got an AN/PRC-74B
that I've never fired up, so I had forgotten that it should not have
been on my list of LSB-capable military sets. At least the 74B covers
20 meters (it
Jeremy wrote:
I've been looking around for a few weeks now for my first HF radio
(just recently newly licensed as a General) - and am looking at either
something like a Yaesu FT-101, or a Kenwood TS-820S or an Elecraft
K1 (probably just the 2-band 20m/40m version).
1. A person with
Curt wrote:
I'm wondering if the trouble with your K1 on 20M is the 22 mHz
premixer crystal is bad.
That's exactly what I was thinking, and was wondering why in the scores
of earlier replies there had been no suggestion of this. The RF probe
won't solve this very likely cause!
Jon, see if you
Don wrote:
While the RF Probe will not solve the problem, it will detect whether
the crystal is the problem or not. At the time of the initial
suggestions, he did not have access to another receiver...
Hi Don,
The temperance and helpfulness that you and all the other list members extend
to
Tom wrote:
Since you are going to be a newly minted ham, I would not recommend
a Buddipole right now. I would take the suggestion of the others and
build a 44 or 66 foot doublet and feed it with twin lead or build a
resonant dipole. Any of these simple antennas will out perform a
Buddipole...
Craig wrote:
I will respectfully disagree. You have made one major assumption
that is almost never true - namely that the BuddiPole vertical is
used without an adequate ground system.
Most everyone I know (including me) who uses the BuddiPole as a
vertical uses a single quarter wave elevated
This topic will be old stuff for most K1 users, but it was
new to me. I've had a K1 with KAT1 for 7 years. After all
that time, it was only last week that I found that the firmware
controlling the KAT1 (version 1.3) is more versatile than I
realized.
The KAT1 manual describes the use of the
VK6DXR wrote:
Just a quick word to say totally disagree with KK5F's
comments about the Outbacker antennas.
Whoops! Instead of addressing any issue raised in my original post,
you have created a straw man to attack which arises not at all from
ANY aspect of my post.
I and many of my club
Ken wrote:
...I would like to construct a good portable antennae to use while camping
I have played around with multi-band HF antennas for camping and backpacking
for more than 30 years. I've tried resonant dipoles with and without traps,
untuned dipoles fed with balanced line, simple and
The two most common mistakes associated with these coils involve one too
many. Without care, one can wind up with one too many turns on the coil, and
one too many r's in toroid.
Mike / KK5F
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Brett wrote:
Is there ay reason you cant make the K1 tune higher in freq
by tuning the knob clockwise?
That's the way the K1 works, unless the leads to the VFO pot
have been mis-wired.
I think the manual said it tunes the other way...
The frequency of the VFO does tune *lower* as the VFO pot
Brett wrote:
I have a noise at my place that comes on at night and is a random
pulse type noise...
In my Kenwood TS-450S both NB1 and NB2 seem to have about the same
effect on the noise and it does a pretty good job.
But the K1 seems to be completely ineffectual on this noise. Could
it be that
... the 15M receiver has very poor reception and a very loud,
steady tone on one frequency. The tone's bandwith is very narrow...
...has anyone any idea what may be the cause of the steady tone?
...initial hunch is that it is a symptom of a short, possibly in the
crystal.
It would help if you
NN4X wrote:
Personally, I don't think so, and I'm voicing my opinion.
Now, if I was absolutely, 100% morally outraged, I'd cancel my order
Why not address the issue of just what this repetitive non-stop
nonsense is supposed to remedy? Do complaining parties believe that
Elecraft is holding
Carl,
There is no more interesting QRP band than 15m when it is open.
When 15m is not open, often 17m will not be open. IMHO, 15m is
clearly the better choice over 17m for the KFL1-4. Of course,
if you were really set on having both 17m and 15m, the KFL1-4
in reality supports 40m, 30m, and any
I found a 100K Ohm resistor that was not listed on the
inventory page - it was not taped with the others but
was just loose in the bag.
What is this one for?
It would be my guess that it is R19, associated with the front panel assembly.
R19 is a 100k-ohm resistor that was added *after*
Bernie wrote:
During the voltage checks in the first part of the RF board
assembly: the voltage on pin 5 of U3 was 3.73, slightly less
than the specified 3.8-4.2 range.
It's all OK and within expected circuit variations.
Pin 5 of U3 is the audio output signal of the AF preamplifier, and there
Chris wrote:
Am I the only person on earth who wishes that there was a
21 MHz option for the KX1? I emailed Elecraft some months
ago and was told that there are no plans to make the KX1
anything other than 20M-80M...
There are good fundamental technical reasons why the KX1 doesn't cover 17m and
Clark wrote:
... when changing between the three filters the width of the plot
varied very little. I would have expected to see a vastly different
shape between the 800 Hz filter and the 250 Hz filter.
So, do I need to take the screws out anyway?
I'm sorry, OM, but this is the K3
I guess its time for me to move on. The K3 was such a disapointing
let down that I sold my K2. I'm sorry but prebuilt modules does not a
kit make.
Fascinating logic!
Mike / KK5F
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You
Vern wrote:
After enjoying using the K1 for a few months, recently the
audio becomes distorted when strong signals or noise is present.
Have you tried listening to the audio with a headset, rather than with the
internal speaker? Whenever I've had a similar problem with my K1, the headset
I had to get a new 2nd Telegraph a few years back and the FCC
gave me 20 WPM credit -- not for having had a prior 2nd Telegraph
but for having had an Amateur Extra since before 1980-something!
But the FCC accepting a ham 20 wpm test result, even one from the 1950s, as
qualifying one for the
Bill wrote to John:
I'm not sure what you are implying. I took my tests in 1980 under a
steely-eyed FCC examiner, and they were multiple-choice back then.
The FCC ham technical exams were multiple choice when I took my first one in
1968, and they had been at least as far back as the early
Ron wrote:
Yep. It's a very recent term as Ham-speak goes, originating in QST in 1971
Heck, being 1971-era, it's surprising that guy's name wasn't Moon Unit or
Peace Head or Gossamer Lollipop or some such thing.
Mike / KK5F
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The use of the term ham is classical. Few are those who are unfamiliar with
the oft heard phrase:
I think, therefore I ham!
Mike / KK5F
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Ed wrote:
I bought six AA-size Li-ion 3.7V/750mah batteries. I installed them into
each battery holder, but wired the two battery holders in parallel
instead of in series.
Ed,
Have you had this arrangement in service long enough to determine that there
isn't any significant problem associated
Jim wrote:
...it is my understanding that arc transmitters (like
the Poulsen arc) generated continuous (undamped) waves.
Right you are. My mistake.
I don't have any transmitters of that era in my collection, though I do have
the remanants of a 100-year-old coherer receiver, and a complete
We call it CW and mean communications using the International
Morse Code when CW means continuous waves.
Communications using Morse code by keyed continuous waves in contrast to
communications using Morse code by keyed damped waves, which was the type of
signal emitted by those old spark and
Craig wrote:
...15 or 17 meters was one of the most difficult decisions I've had
to make in quite some time ;) Too bad it couldn't have been both.
It can be. All you have to do is install the 17m crystal in place of the 20m
crystal and align the 15m band first, followed by 17m. Elecraft
Jack wrote:
Wayne owes me about $2500.
Wayne is one simple-minded bombastic buffoon, in addition to his legend
misdealings with people such as cited above.
For the past couple of decades he has often appeared on late-night kooky stupid
AM radio with Art Bell, a much kindred spirit.
For one
Thom wrote:
I remember trying to find out what frequencies the various MARS programs used
in
order to determine if I could use the K2 to checkit. My emails explained why
I
was asking.
Army Mars never answered...
AirForce Mars told me they couldn't give me the frequencies
due to security.
The MARS callsigns have changed a bit over the years. At one time
they used prefixes which are now allocated to amateur radio.
All the 1x3 and 2x3 ham-call format call signs that were being used by the
military services (including but not limited to MARS calls) were abandoned in
the
Ron wrote:
FM repeaters, for example, sometimes use the beep to signal when the
repeater drops the carrier, since that happens after a delay following
the last transmission.
Most repeater systems which generate that beep do so to indicate that the
time-out timer (TOT) has just reset, well
...The table shows C17 C19 as 56, but the components I
have are labeled 560J. Do I have the right capacitors
There's a very good summary of capacitor marking conventions at:
http://xtronics.com/kits/ccode.htm
There's some interesting non-obvious conventions to this marking system. Most
know
Looking at the new K3 has me admiring the slick countersunk external
hardware. I'm wondering how hard it would be to duplicate this with
my existing K2 panels?
One has been able to admire that type of Elecraft construction since the
appearance of the K1 almost seven years ago. The K1 has
As I tune up the band (to higher frequencies) on 40, the pitch of the
received signal goes up. On the 820, the pitch goes DOWN as I tune up the
band.
This info won't be of help, but for *any* sideband receiver:
If the received signal's pitch INcreases when tuning UPward, the receiver is in
I have K1 # 1423, do not see ATTN LED blinking in a darkned room.
I guarantee that it does. But *only* while the LCD is displaying the battery
voltage.
Mike / KK5F
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Dave asked:
How easy would it be to convert the 2 band module which is on
40-20 mtrs at present to cover 80 and 17 mtrs and what exactly
would i need parts wise ...
It's a rather easy project that can be done in a couple of hours if you are
slow and take your time. I did exactly the same
James wrote:
...noticed the manual has directions for Rev C and Rev D.
...should I not have received the latest rev, which
appears to be D?
Don wrote:
The KNB1 electrical design has not changed between board revisions C and D
It's much simpler than that. There has **NEVER** been a revision D
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