Hi Joel,
You might try the
The Missouri SLOW-speed CW training FUN weekly net.
http://www.w0aki.com/education.html
73,
Charlie, N0TT
It's been around 15 years since I worked any CW and then it was only to
pass the General exam. I am very interested in working some sloow
speed CW. I can
Hi Gents,
I have a question for those of you that have truly quiet
(can hear a pin drop!) locations AND have the the K3+P3
combo AND have 160m receiving antennas:
When tuned to say, 1830kHz, and the span is set for
say, +-30 khz, what averaged noise level do you
see on your P3 screen?
The
I've also experienced the noisy fans. The original fans
were replaced by Elecraft, twice, but they were all the same Utec brand
and still have the same whiney, rough bearing type of noise.
(Yes, they were all installed properly.)
I also have fan noise from an amplifier I occasionally use. So,
Another one that may have always been there and I never noticed ,
when engaging the NB control the signals drop noticably, my settings
are T1-4 and IF Narrow -4 when I press NB to remove power line
noise the signal also drops in strength, as I say that may be normal
and I have not noticed it
I did call QRL? a few times before starting my run.
He obviously felt I was a bit close to his run frequency so He spotted
me with a comment.
(other other similar posts)
It's good that you called QRL?and that
may be cool to slip in close to somebody's run freq,
but the problem is that
There is another group of people who appreciate a peaking function
for
CW. That group is those of use who remember using a Q-multiplier.
YES! I still have my old QF-1 in the store roomsure do miss the
peak function for weak signal CW.
In my view, it would be a definite plus to have a
Hi Gents,
K3 sudden loss of RF power output:
I was operating the FD event over the weekend...had a nice
pileup going...I heard a pop in the headphones and discovered
that there was ZERO RF power output when there should have been
100 Watts. Receiver was OK and the radio was otherwise acting
Hi Gents,
I know this has been discussed quite some time
ago and the issue may not have been fully resolved
since thenbut let me ask, can I do a firmware upgrade (or BETA)
using the K3 Firmware Updates and K3 Download/Config Utility
saved on a CD? The computer *may* have Windows XP
or
Hi Gents,
No question here, but I did want to post this in case
someone else wants to operate his XG2 on 160m
instead of 80m
I ordered a crystal from Mouser, part number
520-HCA184-13X for 1843 khz. The XG2 wouldn't
oscillate with the new crystal. Bob, N6CM, designed
the device, so I asked
I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have accidentally
zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the output resistors
R6-8 were fried. I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4 and the
transistor. The slide switch in the output tests ok.
When I turn the XG-1 on, I
Well, I'll jump in here. I had the same problem a few months ago when I
assembled S/N 1889. The VFO A knob was way too loose no matter what I
did. I
had followed the instructions and installed one (1) felt washer under
both
the VFO A and B knobs. The B knob was fine. The A knob couldn't be
A ESD bag and a mat are 2 different animals.
Right on that.
I haven't done this, but here's some info:
I *think* there was a Hints and Kinks article in QST
quite awhile ago where a guy made a mat using
some Masonite (tempered hardboard, etc) and a
quantity of India Ink. He said (as I
Thanks Tom (and several others too!), I'll contact Elecraft.
Screws tight, but not over-tightened. Finger
guards centered. Fans move air in the right
direction. Also, nothing touching the blades.
I did notice that the instructions said to install some bushings at the
corners of the fans.
I was trying to ferret out some weak signals on 160m when
the cooling fans switched on, making it very hard
to hear over the whine of the fans (or fan) even through
the padding on my headphones.
Has anyone tried to quiet them down with vibration
isolators, etc?
Charlie, N0TT
Gents,
The fans in my new K3 blow warm/hot air out the back
instead of through the slots on top of the cabinet.
That doesn't seem logical.
I verified the postion of the red and black leads
and they are plugged in as directed, with the
RED leads being on the LEFT as viewed from
the BACK of the
is supposed to flow out the back.
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ
--- On Wed, 10/15/08, Missouri Guy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Missouri Guy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2008, 4:40 PM
Gents
I've visited the Jackite site. They are offering their 32' poles
(black or orange) for $54.
I thought someone had found similar poles for a bit less than the
Jackite price, however I may be in error here.
I have a few 31-foot orange Jackite poles for sale. Brand new.
The price is $54 each
I don't know if the pins are the same type I have used
and removed, but I used a piece of thin-walled brass
tubing just small enough to clear the plastic connector.
I just push the tubing in over the pins and the tangs
on the connector are released.
73,
Charlie, N0TT
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