Neil, KN3ILZ
Thank you for the fix for my K2S software, the Run Compatibility
Troubleshooter fix did not work, however selecting the compatibility
manually solved the problem. I restarted the computer after setting the
compatibility to Windows 7 for this program and the KE6D, K2S software
I have been using Dan's excellent K2S software for my K2 with Windows 7 for
a number of years. I recently upgraded my computer to Windows 10. Now
when I load K2S I get the following error message. "Unable to read software
logging model". The program comes up, but does not respond to any
While I have not had any problems with the USB to Serial Adapter with my K2,
I did have problems with the USB ports on another computer, not my ham
station computer. I had a printer, mouse, scanner and keyboard on USB from
the computer, this computer did not have a USB to Serial Adapter.
I have been using Dan's KE6D K2 program for years. It is easy to use, and
works great.
The link for Dan's page is http://www.qsl.net/ke6d/
73,
Steve K4JPN
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While not exactly what you are looking for in monitoring your output signal,
this is the way I set up my audio on my K2. This was published back in May
2009 in QST Hints and Kinks.
Many of the new rigs have the capability for one to listen to transmitted
audio, for setting up levels,
I want to thank AB3AP for the K2 parameter program; it is nice to be able to
record all the settings on my K2. I found one thing that maybe of interest
I found when I ran it if the real time clock is on it takes about 3 minutes
to run vs. the real time clock off it takes about 2 minutes 15
Rather then plug and unplug headphones, I simply wired up a box to take the
output from the K2 speaker jack, and feed it into a switch that in one
position drives the headphones and the other drives an external speaker.
This eliminates wear and tear on both the headphone cord and the headphone
I used computer jumpers for the configuration header mic connector and they
work great. I also took a computer jumper, and used a Demel tool to cut a
computer jumper in two, then soldered a surface mounted 10 K resistor across
the terminals. The surface mounted resistor came from an old
Checked my notebook, thought I had used a 1K SMD, but I had used a 5K SMD.
The current draw with a short would only be 1mA and the power dissipated
across the 5K SMD would be 5mW.
Earlier I had said.
The jumper blocks reminded me of what I did to get the bias voltage out for
the mic. I
The jumper blocks reminded me of what I did to get the bias voltage out for
the mic. I took a jumper block carefully cut with my Demel Tool through the
short at the top and sweated soldered a SMD 1K resistor across the
terminals. It prevents an accident short of the 5V from the mic and if it
is
I got tired of reaching behind to hook up a cable to the aux receiver
antenna input, so made up a cable with a couple of 1N4002 diodes across the
cable from center conductor to ground (cathode end of one diode to center
conductor and anode to the shield and the other diode anode end to center
I had a similar problem just running a couple of devices off the USB ports
of my small Dell Desktop. The output voltage gets loaded down with a few
devices on the USB port. The solution was to purchase a USB expander with
its own wall wart power supply.
73,
Steve K4JPN
K2 mic configuration. I use computer jumpers for the mic headers (get them
at Radio Shack), you don't need the resistor in the 5V on the mic header
unless you are using a electrodynamic mic, like a computer mic. I normally
leave the 5V line unjumpered. I have some old computer boards, so I
The problem with the headphone jack on the K2 is not a new problem; you
cannot expect it to last forever. My solution was to take the audio out of
the speaker jack in the back and feed it to a small box. The box has a
switch to go between a standard headphone jack and a output to a external
I have to agree the Heathkit HS1661 is a great external speaker for the K2.
I have used it for over 8 years and been very pleased with the audio output
and quality of sound. I liked the HS-1661 speaker so much I removed it
from its Heathkit case and built a separate enclosure for it to match the
Being lazy and hating to plug and unplug headphones, I simply made an audio
box that I feed the audio from the speaker output of the K2 to a switch that
switches between my head phones and my external speaker. I use an old
Heathkit Speaker HS-1661 rather then the built in Elecraft speaker. The
I have run into the first problem with my K2 S/N 1422, which has the latest
firmware and mods. I built it back in 2000 and not had any problems with
it till a few weeks ago. It now has an intermittent problem of receiving
and transmitting a very raspy audio. It is not caused by AC magnetic
Try a Bass Outlet Store in their fishing department and get a Plano storage
box. They have dividers that you can adjust, and a lid that is easily
completely removed when building and then can be put back on.
Best of all they are quite reasonably priced, about $3.00 to $6.00. Usual
disclaimers,
It is hard to believe, but 7 years ago today, I finished my K2 S/N 1422 and
had the first QSO on it. The rig has worked great since it was completed
and over the years I have incorporated the various mods (new crystals,
latest firmware etc)and accessories KSB2, KAT2, KIO2, KNB2, KAF2, K160RX.
Had a strange problem with my K2 S/N 1422, built back in 2000 it appeared
the preamp had gotten blown, in a recent thunderstorm, even though the
antennas were all grounded through the antenna switch and the rig was off.
Anyway I was able to get on the air with the preamp off, but with preamp on
I am considering doing the B/W mod for the KSB2 on my K2 S/N1422, and wonder
how others have liked it using a Heil Mic element (my HC-5 is in a old
Kenwood MC50). At present I get good audio reports, but wonder if widening
the B/W to 2.2 or 2.5 KHz is the way to go. I have already changed out the
With the discussion occurring occasionally about the headphone jack failing
on the K2, thought I would pass along my thoughts. I have always had an
aversion, (lazy) about plugging and unplugging headphones, from the front of
a receiver/transceiver, so over the years I have simply used the speaker
I have had my K2 since 2000 and really enjoyed it, when I first built the
KSB2 I was using a Kenwood MC50 mic. When I built the KSB2 it had the
original crystals supplied, back in 2000, I have since changed out crystals
to the matched set. The audio drive with the MC50 mic was insufficient, to
I use the Brass Pro Shops, storage box, for sorting caps and other non
electrostatic sensitive components. The box I like is the model 370, as it
has adjustable dividers and the price is right. I would never use them for
electrostatic components. Keep your electrostatic components in
I finally got around to replacing the IF crystals in my K2 S/N 1422 with
the new ones. Thought I might pass along the process I used to accomplish
the mod.
1. I have a simple hb crystal checker that I can feed into my counter, each
crystal was checked to make sure it was working.
2. I took
Just some comments on power supplies for the K2 and KPA100, I have my K2 in
its own case with the KPA100, and KAT100 in a separate EC2 case. I run the
K2 and KAT100 off a Tripp Lite PR10 (7.5A continuous 10A ICS)power supply
and the KPA100 off a Astron 20A (16A continuous 20A ICS) power supply.
I wanted to try out a Electret Mic (old computer mic) with my K2, so came up
with the following to provide the bias voltage. I took a computer jumper
short and carefully with my Demel tool cut the short (at the top of the
jumper), then probed around a old junked computer board till I found a
Just finished building my Rework Eliminators for my K2, they work fine.
Since I have most of the K2 modules, I needed a safe place to store the
Rework Eliminators, my concern was protection of the plug pins. I found
that a couple of 35 mm film canisters work fine to hold them.
The usual
Sounds like the problem I had with my K2 on 80 meters, I tracked it down to
rf getting into my Astron 12A power supply. It only did it on 80 and 160
and running the K2 into a dummy load did not correct the problem. The
problem would show up with the K2 running as low as 4 Watts. The power
I just got home from the Stone Mountain Hamfest, outside Atlanta Georgia and
want to report Elecraft had an excellent display setup by Don, N4HH. When
Don saw my Elecraft shirt he told me I was entitled to a great Southern
delicacy, a Moon Pie and a bottle water, (well he got half right, any
Just a thought on dummy loads, a number of years ago I noticed my Heath
Cantenna was giving me a slightly higher SWR reading instead of 1 to 1.
When I measured it with a VTVM I found it was 40 ohms, not the original 50
ohms when I built it 25 or so years ago. I posted this on the Heath users
Tom Skinner wrote:
I've been kinda lurking for a while and haven't seen much about power
supplies.
Is there a 'supply of choice' for the K2? It's needs are modest, and
present no difficulty, but for the 100 watt overshoes - well, that might be
a different story.
The following is my
I thought I might pass this along to fellow K2 owners, that I have used an
old Heath Kit HS-1661 speaker with my K2 for 4 years now. I have tried a GE
Mobile speaker and several other speakers found at hamfests and a couple of
TV speakers and still like the HS-1661 the best. The HS-1661 has
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