I'm confused. I've assumed that the K3 sub-receiver must be connected to
a second antenna - a luxury many don't have. However, as I read more I'm
starting to wonder if the sub-receiver can be used for dual receive even
though you are using one antenna? Is that the case or have I just
exposed
I've been off the reflector for months, and off the air for months, and
about to get back on. Now am seeing the K3 seeming to take the world by
a storm. In a nutshell, other than perhaps a second receiver - what
benefits does the K3 really have over a K2 - (in layman's non-engineer
language
I have been away from K2's for perhaps a year and am considering
building again. The only (and I mean only) frustration I've ever had
with K2's is the lackluster audio (a subjective observation) which has
been a subject on this reflector. My way around it in the past, to a
point, was judicious
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Help:
Hi folks -
I would like to know what experiences anyone has had using switching
power supplies within close proximity of a K2 or K2-100. I'm
considering building a fifth K2 (keep selling the dang things to people
that don't build) and am toying with the idea of making up a portable
module
/hamps/3747.html
Good luck,
Frank - W6NEK
- Original Message - From: Tim Logan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 1:14 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2's and switching power supplies
Hi folks -
I would like to know what experiences anyone has had
Hi all -
I have a K2 connected to a separate KPA/100 - KAT/100 box. Any frequency
on my rig will tune with an SWR of 1.5 or less EXCEPT in the 7.200 MHz
area where it only hits about 3.7 - 1.0. It seems odd to me that only
such an isolated freq range would do thisso it makes me wonder if
Yep that appears to have done it - thanks Dan - and thanks Don!
73/Tim
Dan Barker wrote:
Change the length of the feedline by a few feet. See if the problem can be
encouraged to move outside the ham bands.
Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
snip
is something within the rig I need to check.vrs blaming
EXcellent thought!
Steven Pituch wrote:
Hi all,
I was looking at my KPA100 while waiting for some parts and am
wondering. Since the KPA100 is in the EC2 case, I'm guessing there
is no reason to put the speaker in the EC2 by screwing it to the
heatsink of the KPA100.
What if I found a
Hi folks -
I wonder if somebody can confirm part of the instructions on page 47 of
the KPA100 manual. I have the KPA100 connected to my K2. The KPA100 is
lying with the heat sink down and the fan to the rear next to my K2. In
this position all component labels are upside down.
The errata
Hello fellow Elecraft addicts -
I've been using my Icom 706 a lot lately while I build the amp for my
K2. As an 18- 20wpm cw novice I seem to have FAR more difficulty
SENDING cw on the 706 then I do on the K2. I could swear it's not my
imagination. After 30min on the 706 - a switch over to
Hi folks -
I am at page 21 of the KPA100 manual. I will be placing the am in my EC2
with the KAT100. My K2 is number 4667. On page 21 it begins to discuss
the internal ribbon cable connections.
My question is this. If I follow the KAP100 manual will I have to
reverse any of the steps from
Hi folks -
I am in the process of building a remote KPA100/KAT100 in an EC2
enclosure. The KAt100 is done and I am starting the amp.
I have read Lyle and Bob's excellent descriptions of the connections
between the K2 and the remote unit but in either case I believe (maybe I
missed it) the
Hi folks -
I have all options installed in K2 and all are working extremely well. I
am just finishing up with the K60XV. In doing the alignment I get a
slightly low voltage reading on 5300kHZ of .79 (where the manual says it
should no be less than 1.0 on page 11). All other voltages are within
Hello all -
My basic K2 #4667 was operating on cw EXTREMELY well (audio outstanding
by the way compared to two prior K2's).
However, today I finished and installed the SSB board. W2-W3and C167
were removed from the RF board per instructions. According to the menu
the SSB board is
Don Lerche was right and I thank him so much! Although I could not SEE
the short I disconnected the T4 windings one by one until the Q7 base
resistance shot up to 2.6k. Then I resoldered one by one - measuring Q7
after each new solder joint. Finally I redid all of the page 71
measurements and
Hofolks -
:-) Number #4667 (sans SSB and any other modules yet) is on the air and
appears to operate fb. Still blows me away to hear that first signal
pulled out the air into this little box of parts I just glued together!
I love it!
As usual Gary Surrency was a model of patience. I was
I'm having trouble locating this part. Manual says it should be labeled
271. I have a small blue cap that is labeled 2.7C. Could this be C72?
Thanks for any help.
73/Tim NZ7C
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You must be a
- The RATE switch does not change rates. I checked the secondary menu
and the basic 3 rate default is set. Can you suggest where I start to
solve this issue?
Thanks in advance for any help.
73/ Tim Logan NZ7C
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excludes U2 and the serial path to the MCU.
Jim, W4ATK
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tim Logan
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 7:21 PM
To: Elec-Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 problem at page 43 of Rev. F manual - need some
help
Hi folks -
I
you. It would probably be best to reply on the
reflector so others can hear about your efforts. Thanks in advance.
73/Tim Logan NZ7C
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Hi folks -
My K2 inventory lists Control Board component U1 as SA602AN. The actual
part supplied is SA612AN. I assume this is a correct part but would like
to verify before soldering to the board. I'd check with Elecraft
support but it's the weekend - anybody know by chance? Thank you in
Thank you Lyle!
73/Tim
Lyle Johnson wrote:
Hello Tim!
SA602 and SA612 are interchangeable in the K2.
73,
Lyle KK7P
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As I once again delve into building a K2 knowing little if anything
about how they work I am again reminded of one of the truly amazing
features of the K2 - the manaul(s) and building procedures. It takes a
very together mind to create an assembly process that literally anyone
can follow and
Hi folks -
Could some one bring up to date on what to expect for drift if I build a
new K2/100 vs a K2 with the 100w amp separated? My understanding is that
initially it was a better idea to keep the amp separate - that
combining it in the box with the K2 increased drift - a bit frustrating
Ron -
Thank you - that brings me right up to date and good news as well!
73/Tim NZ7C
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Tim, NZ7C asked:
Could some one bring up to date on what to expect for drift if I build a
new K2/100 vs a K2 with the 100w amp separated? My understanding is that
initially it was a
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