On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 13:34:53 -0600
Don Cunningham d...@martineer.net wrote:
I guess I'm getting old. Sorry about the blank message!! Don, I
found something interesting in doing some remodeling and replacing
receptacles. The old ones were ivory, and with the new white trim, I
had to please
I discovered some of the same issues in my 1972 house, plus most of the wiring
was copper-clad aluminum which has a nasty tendency to break when replacing a
receptacle.
Bob N7XY
On Feb 17, 2011, at 5:31 AM, R. Kevin Stover wrote:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 13:34:53 -0600
Don Cunningham
Let's end the 120V vs 240V thread for now. Its getting way too long ;-)
73, Eric
Elecraft list moderator
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A story I heard which I wish I could confirm is that a number of
states outlawed 24 volt systems in autos after people bought surplus
aircraft landing lights which were super bright but also wide beam.
They blinded oncoming drivers.
David K0LUM
At 4:45 PM -0800 2/16/11, Lew Phelps K6LMP
Thanks Eric,
My question about 120 vs. 240 was asked and answered almost
a month ago. I was surprised to see it resurrected and the number of
replies lately to my email (about cars, houses etc.) was astounding.
Keep up the good work herding this amazing
, and some test equipment at the work bench,
plus bench 0-30vdc power supply.
73, Ed - KL7UW
--
Message: 44
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 17:17:42 -0800 (PST)
From: ab2tc ab...@arrl.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 120V vs 240V
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID
This lessens the electrical loading on the 120v house circuits in the
bedroom converted to shack. Those circuits power the computer stuff,
lights, antenna rotators, and some test equipment at the work bench,
plus bench 0-30vdc power supply.
Many good suggestions here. If for no other
Actually, the percentage voltage drop at 120 V is FOUR times that at 240 V.
(For the same power, wire gauge and length.) Since the KPA500, like most
tube-type amplifiers, uses an unregulated power supply, the extra drop can
significantly reduce output. For example, suppose the amplifier can
I also recommend running a dedicated 220V circuit to the shack for your amp(s)
I was plagued with the lights dimming, etc and after
having to reset circuit breakers a few times decided I had to do something !
Yes, some work involved running the romex
cable thru the attic, etc but well worth
I ran 240VAC to my shack for my ALS-600. I have the switching power supply,
and the ALS-600 draws very close to 15 amps with the switcher. As my shack is
diagonally across the house from the breaker panel, I was actually seeing 20VAC
drop in the wiring. This caused two problems: Lots of
I ran 240VAC to my shack for my ALS-600. I have the switching power
supply, and the ALS-600 draws very close to 15 amps with the switcher. As
my shack is diagonally across the house from the breaker panel, I was
actually seeing 20VAC drop in the wiring. This caused two problems: Lots
of
Sorry - Wasn't clear. The light flickering only occurred when trying to run
the ALS-600 on 120VAC. No problem on 240VAC. However, no problem at all
when running the KPA500 on 120VAC.
Phil - AD5X
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Phil, the 20 VAC drop that you describe for a 15 amp draw on a 120 VAC circuit
strongly suggests that something is wrong with the wiring.
I am assuming that with a 15 amp breaker the circuit is wired (per the National
Electrical Code requirements) with 14 gauge copper wire. A voltage drop of
Guys,
you should all emigrate to the UK!
We have 240V AC as standard ;-)
73's
Vic
G7PYR
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running significant RF power. The
KPA-500 will likely run on 120vac with no problem but better if run on 240v.
--
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 10:35:27 -0600
From: Scott Ellington sdell...@facstaff.wisc.edu
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 120V vs 240V
To: Elecraft
Yes, a 20 VAC drop is something that would cause me to look at the
wiring carefully.
If the receptacles are wired using the backstab holes rather then
having the wires secured under the screws, that is a possible cause, as
are loose screws in the receptacles.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/16/2011 1:04
That's interesting. Does the KPA500 use a choke input supply? (That would
considerably reduce the input current.)
Scott K9MA
On Feb 16, 2011, at 11:36 AM, Phil Debbie Salas wrote:
I ran 240VAC to my shack for my ALS-600. I have the switching power supply,
and the ALS-600 draws very
elsewhere).
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward R. Cole
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 10:47 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] 120V vs 240V
Important reasons for running HP
As does much of Europe (just next door to you :-)
Us OT's remember when almost all automobiles (including my British MGA) had
6-volt batteries. As more electronics were added to cars it eventually
forced a shift to 12 VDC to avoid requiring huge cables attached to gigantic
terminals to avoid
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I guess I'm getting old. Sorry about the blank message!! Don, I found
something interesting in doing some remodeling and replacing receptacles.
The old ones were ivory, and with the new white trim, I had to please the
XYL, hi. Anyway, since my wiring days in the sixties, I have avoided the
vtuff59...@aol.com wrote:
Guys,
you should all emigrate to the UK!
We have 240V AC as standard ;-)
73's
Vic
G7PYR
__
I had 220/380 volt 3 phase at my house in Germany! Unfortunately, they
were 10 Hz short.
If the receptacles are wired using the backstab holes rather then
having the wires secured under the screws, that is a possible cause...
Good point, Don. For me, it's hard to believe that using back-stab
receptacle connections is still NEC/UL compliant. At least in recent years,
use is
Paul,
Yes Don Cunningham mentioned that he bought some home receptacles with
that type clamp. I have previously only seen them in industrial
applications - they make very solid connections.
I had to grin a bit at the electrician that wired a new rental house for
us (I was not permitted to
Ditto for Australia.
Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
Innisfail, QLD, Australia
Elecraft K3# 4257 + PR6 - K144XV = multiband goodness!
- Original Message -
From: vtuff59...@aol.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 4:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 120V vs
Hi,
Agree, those backstab holes are a fire waiting to happen. As I renovated
each room in my house I always replaced each outlet and switch and wrapped
the wires around the screw. I have never used any of those the industrial
grade receptacles though.
AB2TC - Knut
P.B. Christensen wrote:
If the receptacles are wired using the backstab holes rather then having
the wires secured under the screws, that is a possible cause...
Everything in the house was originally wired using the backstab holes in
the switches and sockets. I've been gradually replacing them over the
years. My
: Thursday, February 17, 2011 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 120V vs 240V
Hi,
Agree, those backstab holes are a fire waiting to happen. As I renovated
each room in my house I always replaced each outlet and switch and wrapped
the wires around the screw. I have never used any of those
!
- Original Message -
From: vtuff59...@aol.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 4:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 120V vs 240V
Guys,
you should all emigrate to the UK!
We have 240V AC as standard ;-)
73's
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 4:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 120V vs 240V
Guys,
you should all emigrate to the UK!
We have 240V AC as standard ;-)
73's
Vic
G7PYR
Ed is giving you excellent advice. It is just about as easy to pull
a heavy feeder ta sub panel as it is to pull a couple of branch
circuits.
In my unfinished basement there were only three 15 amp 110 v
circuits. Furnace, sump pump and lights. The main entry was in the
garage. When I
Not only were they 6V, but positive ground, if I recall correctly. (My
preference was Triumphs, however, not MGs.)
73,
Dave KQ3T
On 2/16/2011 2:13 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
As does much of Europe (just next door to you :-)
Us OT's remember when almost all automobiles (including my
On 2/16/2011 2:38 PM, Dave KQ3T wrote about 6V vehicles:
Not only were they 6V, but positive ground, if I recall
correctly. (My preference was Triumphs, however, not MGs.)
IIRC all of the British 6 volters were positive ground. When
I needed an isolation block (2 big diodes on a heat
Phil,
I am stretching my memory a bit, but I think I remember my 1951 Ford
(my first car) had a 6 volt positive ground system as well - even if my
memory is fuzzy, I do know there was one domestic car manufacturer
that used a 6 volt positive ground.
My 1973 MG Midget was 12 volts negative
I own a 1929 Hudson Town Sedan. Its OEM electrical system was 6 volt positive
ground. Later Hudsons were 12 volt negative ground. From my contact with the
old car restoration community, my sense is that in the early years (up to about
1950) the industry was about evenly split between positive
On 2/17/2011 12:45 AM, Lew Phelps K6LMP wrote:
I own a 1929 Hudson Town Sedan. Its OEM electrical system was 6 volt
positive ground. Later Hudsons were 12 volt negative ground. From my contact
with the old car restoration community, my sense is that in the early years
(up to about 1950)
...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of FredJensen
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 4:57 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 120V vs 240V
On 2/17/2011 12:45 AM, Lew Phelps K6LMP wrote:
Stupid question: I was under the impression that the KPA500 was solid
If I were going to the trouble to pull the wire, I'd run 220V. You give
yourself the option of using a heavier amplifier in the future, and less
voltage drop (twice as much on 120V). You can always use the neutral and
one side for 120V now if you really are stuck on it, and use both side of
the
Hi,
Absolutely agree, if you are putting in a new circuit, make it 240V. It's
not much more trouble and gives you the choice of local 240 and 120V
outlets.
AB2TC - Knut
PS. S9DX still holding up well here and getting rave reports from points
west.
K4SC wrote:
If I were going to the
Chuck,
I would not advocate using one side of the 240 volt feed and neutral for
a 120 volt feed. If the need is to run 240 volts to the shack as well
as 120 volts, pull two lines, and put a breaker on each of them. Yes,
your solution will work with a 3 wire with ground wiring run, but if
Hi all,
I was not advocating using the safety ground of the 240V cable for a neutral
return for a 120V outlet (clearly against code). I have not done a a
combined 120/240V run myself but I thought it was possible to get a complete
red/black/white/blank cable to do this in a single run. Rummaging
And while you're at it, use the three-wires-plus-ground type Romex. You
need a separate safety ground if you want to have any 110V outlets on
the same circuit.
Al N1AL
On Tue, 2011-02-15 at 16:35 -0800, ab2tc wrote:
Hi,
Absolutely agree, if you are putting in a new circuit, make it 240V.
I will need to add a circuit for a KPA-500. It is less than 25 feet from the
panel. Other than the cost of wire for the circuit is there any
advantage/disadvantage to feeding this amp 120V or 240V? It would have it's
own circuit so the voltage droop on 120V would be minimal I guess.
73,
Joe
For a 500W amp, probably doesn't matter, however, why not plan for the
future? Some day, you may want a bigger amp that will require 240V, so put
it in now.
Barry W2UP
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