As Wayne N6KR mentioned yesterday,
"I’ll be speaking at Pacificon's antenna symposium tomorrow (Friday, Oct.
20th). My presentation, from 3:30 to 4:30 PM, is on antennas for
ultra-portable HF operation. This talk was a late addition, a previous
speaker having dropped out.
If you’re interested in
WHAT IS THE AX1 THAT I HAVE READ COMMENTS ABOUT. ARE THERE FURTHER
DESCRIPTIONS OR PHOTO'S RE THIS ANTENNA?GERRY MILLER, aa...@juno.com
1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines In Seconds
Fit Mom Daily
t;; elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Antenna Question
Hi David.
Thanks for the information. I ordered some compression PL259s and SO239s
yesterday direct from Barenco, and they arrived this morning, at a fraction of
the cost I last paid from a retail Ham supplier. They
from a cheap manufacturer.
I can at last get rid of the SO239 barrels that have given me intermittent
problems on my long co-ax cables.
Regards,
Danny, G3XVR
From: CUTTER DAVID
Sent: 12 October 2016 09:17
To: Dave G3WGN M6O; elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question
I bought a batch
(I am trying to get caught up on my email. Forgive me if this has been closed.)
This caught my eye, and I agree. I have found when buying PL-259's that are
made in a 'metric' country, there can be slight problems converting to the
dimensions used in North America.
I have chased SWR troubles
I bought a batch of Barenco 259s amongst others and I am mightily impressed,
very chunky, very smooth and not expensive.
David, G3UNA
>
> On 11 October 2016 at 22:50 Dave G3WGN M6O wrote:
>
>
> Not oddball in EU, nor expensive. Good quality ones are available from
Not oddball in EU, nor expensive. Good quality ones are available from
Kabel-Kusch in Germany and Barenco in UK:
http://www.barenco.co.uk/uhf-line-socket-so239-jacks-rg213-clamp-top-hat-compression-body-solder-pin-165425.
China RF do some good ones via Fleabay too.
We use these extensively in
Here's what I use for the run up the mast to my HexBeam. The center
conductor is stranded copper, and the jacket is thermoplastic elastomer.
MUCH more flexible than standard LMR-400...thus, the name LMR-400 UltraFlex:
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/tmv-lmr-400ultra
I have a run going up the
Cable mount female UHF is an oddball and expensive. To avoid barrels, I
use type N female cable mount which are common.
73,
Josh W6XU
On 10/11/2016 3:52 AM, Nr4c wrote:
Why use barrels? Doesn't Amphenol or Pastornack make a female UHF connector to
put on cable end. For this specific use, a
On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much more loss than a
"good" connector?
Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of
dimensions -- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a
a much better good connector that prople think
Bob K3DJC
On Tue, 11 Oct 2016 09:29:19 -0400 "Charlie T, K3ICH"
writes:
> I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so
> much more
> loss than a "good" connector?
>
I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much more
loss than a "good" connector?
They're probably both (nickel, silver ???) plated brass with a dielectric
insulator usually Teflon, phenolic or ??
Is it the plating, the insulator, the fit of the threads, the
SOME 'junk' PL259s are fine. If there are problems with the threads you
will know right away. I have had some that are plated with something
that won't take solder, or which have plastic insulation that melts when
you solder the center pin. But again, you will know this right away.
SO239s and
Why use barrels? Doesn't Amphenol or Pastornack make a female UHF connector to
put on cable end. For this specific use, a custom built cable seems
appropriate.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Oct 11, 2016, at 4:38 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>
>> On
On Mon,10/10/2016 4:49 PM, Josh Fiden wrote:
If you're concerned about the additional loss of a barrel connector at
50MHz, you should be using feedline with lower loss than LMR400 up the
tower.
The loss in GOOD quality UHF connectors and barrels at 50 MHz is
negligible. There are urban
One way to do it with a single piece of stiff coax is to place a standoff about
a foot long above and below the rotor. Then form the coax into a spiral of
several turns between the standoffs. Rotation will just tighten or loosen the
spiral and not stress the coax at all. The standoffs also take
I do the same as Josh:
http://www.kl7uw.com/6m_Dec-2013_1.jpg
Multiple turns of LMR-400. That connects to 7/8-Heliax coming up the
tower leg.
73, Ed - KL7UW
From: Josh Fiden <j...@voodoolab.com>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question
Message-ID: <b9aa
: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 1:38 AM
To: hsherr...@reagan.com; Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question
There is a stranded center conductor version of the LM400, do not remember
what the designation is. I plan to use some for the same reason,
On 10/10/2016 8:37 PM, Josh Fiden wrote:
> On 10/10/2016 5:39 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> All things being equal... IF you are using LMR-400 as the main feedline,
>> there is NO REASON to use a different diameter at the rotator...
> The point was using a lower loss cable for the long run up the
OOPS... Original left here in HTML not plain text. Don't know why. Elecraft
in address book is listed as plain text only
Sorry,
Bob
K2TK
Forwarded Message
Subject:Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 21:21:14 -0400
From: Bob <k...@ptd.
Completely agree. If access isn't a problem and the additional loss of
more flexible cable is tolerable, that's a great solution. I haven't
used Davis Bury-FLEX but heard very positive reports about it.
73,
Josh W6XU
On 10/10/2016 6:21 PM, Bob wrote:
For sure a consideration.There never
On 10/10/2016 5:39 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
All things being equal... IF you are using LMR-400 as the main feedline,
there is NO REASON to use a different diameter at the rotator...
The point was using a lower loss cable for the long run up the tower,
such as hardline, then flexible cable for the
There is a stranded center conductor version of the LM400, do not remember what
the designation is. I plan to use some for the same reason, going around a
rotor to a HexBeam.
73, John WB4UHCK3 #2165
On Monday, October 10, 2016 6:16 PM, "hsherr...@reagan.com"
wrote:
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list:
All things being equal... IF you are using LMR-400 as the main feedline,
there is NO REASON to use a different diameter at the rotator...
I was simply responding to what the OP said were the conditions... NOT
the "ideal"...
Bottom line... IF you engineer and install things properly, the fewer
As is military practice as well. If you really want to get picky, the
400 should come up to the connector [sealed of course] and supported on
the tower, and then the jumper forms the drip loop to prevent water
running down the coax from running over ... and eventually into ... the
connector.
With an unbroken feedline, a failure or antenna swap can require
soldering connectors up the tower. Not fun. If you're concerned about
the additional loss of a barrel connector at 50MHz, you should be using
feedline with lower loss than LMR400 up the tower. Wrap the barrel
connection with good
On 10/10/2016 3:14 PM, hsherr...@reagan.com wrote:
> Would you connect the LMR to the antenna and allow it to move with the
> rotation, or run a short length of something much more flexible between the
> antenna and LMR?
Commercial practice is to use a flexible jumper and "drip loop" between
You'll get lots of suggestions, but I believe the use of a single
unbroken feedline from the antenna to the shack (when possible) trumps
the inconvenience of properly engineering an install that does NOT put
unnecessary repetitive bending moments on the line.
Do the research There's all
LMR400 is really stiff. When I used it as a rotor loop, I made a couple
of hoops around rather than directly flexing the cable around the tower.
Not sure if that makes sense. In any case, doing it again I would
definitely use a more flexible jumper for the rotor loop running to the
antenna. In
an.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 3:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question
I run LMR400 to my 6 & 2 meter antennas with no problems. Just leave enough
slack around the rotor and you’ll be fine.
John
WA1EAZ
> On Oct 1
I run LMR400 to my 6 & 2 meter antennas with no problems. Just leave enough
slack around the rotor and you’ll be fine.
John
WA1EAZ
> On Oct 10, 2016, at 6:14 PM, hsherr...@reagan.com wrote:
>
> OK all. I'm installing a 6m rotating beam and feeding it with LMR400. Would
> you connect the LMR
OK all. I'm installing a 6m rotating beam and feeding it with LMR400. Would you
connect the LMR to the antenna and allow it to move with the rotation, or run a
short length of something much more flexible between the antenna and LMR? I
have my concerns that the solid heavy inner conductor of
Just moved and my K3 needs a new antenna. My only option is to run a wire
antenna over my roof--I have about 110-120 feet to play with and I can get one
end up off the ground 25 feet and the center and other end about 35 feet. Any
ideas? Or references to an antenna group that can help? Thanks
A doublet. Center fed with either 600 ohm or 450 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 balun
close to your shack and as short a length of coax from the balun to your K3 as
possible. Using a tuner (either the K3 internal or an external), you will be
able to work 80 through 10 meters, and possibly six meters.
Alpha Delta LB-PLUS. they are tough and work great
George, W6GF
On Friday, October 17, 2014 1:45 PM, david beckwith david.beckw...@att.net
wrote:
Just moved and my K3 needs a new antenna. My only option is to run a wire
antenna over my roof--I have about 110-120 feet to play with and
Dave,
I have a K3 (#7360) with ATU and 347 ft. long wire 30 ft height. It
tunes up ok but performance is questionable. This same antenna performs
better with my external MFJ tuner.
Larry W7IN
On 10/17/2014 20:45, david beckwith wrote:
Just moved and my K3 needs a new antenna. My only option
Dave,
Make it a balanced dipole antenna (equal lengths on either side of the
feedpoint) for best efforts in keeping RF off the feedline. The actual
length does not matter a lot, but it should be greater than 80% of the
half wavelength for the lowest band of interest.
Use open wire line or
Don pretty much described my low band antenna. Full Disclosure: I live
on 5 acres and have a 70' tower. That said, it is a Sloping V [I'd call
it an inverted V except is isn't resonant on any band], about 210' on a
side from the top of the tower. 450 ohm window line to the bottom of
the
Fred is right about the 450-ohm stuff getting funky in wet weather. Cause my
tuners to do the clicky-click dance whenever it rains here, although we've been
pretty dry the past few years. Because of this, I plan on replacing my 450-ohm
line with 600-ohm ladder line in a couple weeks. I had the
In a dry climate, ladder line is fine, but good coax has low losses, too, and
is less fussy about being run next to the gutters.
It is rare for a dipole to be perfectly balanced (thanks to near field objects
like houses), so a high-quality current balun at the antenna can really help
reject
Quoting myself:
Besides, I think that low angle is often overrated.
Here's some supporting evidence: (for ARRL members)
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/arrl/qst_201203/index.php#/42
Wes N7WS
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
part of ham radio.
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
From: Rich reh...@ix.netcom.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
Does
Rodenkirch K9JWV
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 23:09:23 -0800
From: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:
I have a small lot. I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits
signal
arrival angles start changing dramatically and rapidly. (smiley face annotation re-inserted)
72/u3, Jim Rodenkirch K9JWV
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 23:09:23 -0800
From: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George
Well, I was speaking of my situation.
I'm in the Sonoran Desert of southern AZ with ground that varies from granite to
sand to caliche within a few feet distance.
Although many (most?) hams consider vertical antennas to be low-angle
radiators, they often fail to consider the efficiency of
On 2/13/2014 1:04 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Well, I was speaking of my situation.
I'm in the Sonoran Desert of southern AZ with ground that varies from
granite to sand to caliche within a few feet distance.
My modeling studies, as well as my results with soil that's nearly as
bad, are in
Wes and all,
From my practical experience, your modeling analysis is correct.
I have a vertical for 80 and 40 with elevated radials (full size except
for the loading of the 40 meter trap) - in A/B tests compared with my 80
and 40 meter dipoles with the center at 45 feet and ends at 20 feet or
My modeling experience pretty much says the same... for higher angle
arrivals... the dipoles under 1/2 or more, will be better... especially when
placed within one hop of the ocean. (East or West.).. HOWEVER... taking
one hop off... (that's the same almost) as gaining 2 - 3 S unites... is
I'm not by any means an antenna expert. All I can say is with ft5zm, they
were much stronger on the vertical than my dipole on 20 meters. Some how
some way, I was able to work them on 40 cw with the hustler vertical.
The conclusion I've come to is there's times where my dipole works better
for DX
@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
Message-ID:
040f2ec01a53458babf11914164d5...@server.thorntonmostullaw.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
This might be a stupid question, but here goes.
I have a small lot. I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that
barely
: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com
To: 'elecraft @ mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
Message-ID:
040f2ec01a53458babf11914164d5...@server.thorntonmostullaw.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
This might
...@yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:21 PM
To: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com; 'elecraft @
mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
Since the K3 will do the QRP thing down to 100 mw, think about installing
the vertical
...@yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:21 PM
To: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com; 'elecraft @
mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
Since the K3 will do the QRP thing down to 100 mw, think about installing
the vertical
Also known as, The worst horizontal antenna is better than the best vertical
antenna theory. It's always worked out for me. Now if I lived on the beach.
Wes N7WS
On 2/12/2014 12:09 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
[snip]
I'm still working on the comparison of verticals to horizontal antennas --
Hi Ed,
Actually, my S9+67 dB for 0dBm turned out to be wrong - I lost one 6 dB in my
book keeping, so 0dBm is S9+73 dB - or S9 equals -73 dBm (which is the number I
had in mind).
No doubt about the space loss formula and the far field - free space loss is
no dissipative loss like for example
I see a number of people are trying to calculate whether any damage
would be done by the situation originally posted.
Frankly, I think this is a dangerous approach. There are too many
variables in a particular situation to risk depending on calculations
when expensive equipment is
: [Elecraft] Antenna question
I see a number of people are trying to calculate whether any damage would
be done by the situation originally posted.
Frankly, I think this is a dangerous approach. There are too many
variables in a particular situation to risk depending on calculations
when expensive
On 2/12/2014 7:29 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Also known as, The worst horizontal antenna is better than the best
vertical antenna theory. It's always worked out for me. Now if I
lived on the beach...
Hi Wes,
Based on my model studies, I wouldn't go that far -- it depends on how
high either of
When we had our place in Silver Springs, NV, our 40-meter 4-square, with
an excellent radial system, was killer. I cannot imagine anything short
of a full-size 2, possibly 3, element yagi up at least 70 feet even
coming close. I would think it would take the 3-element yagi to even
approach the
Bill,
You don't trust the traditional Smoke Test? :-)
73, Phil w7ox
On 2/12/14, 2:45 PM, Bill Turner wrote:
I see a number of people are trying to calculate
whether any damage would be done by the
situation originally posted.
Frankly, I think this is a dangerous approach.
There are too
I love my 40 mtr 4 SQ it's in the woods of FAR NW WI. Poor soil, good ground
system (36 each vertical) and very exact construction. Antennas are surrounded
by much taller aspen. I moved from a location where I had a big 2 element at
125'. It feels very similar and at 72, I'm done climbing big
Surprised me too. It ALWAYS produces results.
Eric
KE6US
On 2/12/2014 3:46 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Bill,
You don't trust the traditional Smoke Test? :-)
73, Phil w7ox
On 2/12/14, 2:45 PM, Bill Turner wrote:
I see a number of people are trying to calculate whether any damage
would be done
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: (may be snipped)
On 2/12/2014 3:46 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Bill,
You don't trust the traditional Smoke Test? :-)
73, Phil w7ox
REPLY:
Of course I trust it. I use it whenever I need smoke. :-)
73, Bill W6WRT
This might be a stupid question, but here goes.
I have a small lot. I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits on
the property. I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF antenna.
If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.
I have a dual
George,
That is a very good question. However, it is hard to quess. But,
one thing going in your favor is that one antenna is horizontal and the
other is vertical. This will minimize the amount of coupling between the
two. If you can get some horizontal separation between the two, it just
I have a Pennant receiving antenna about 100' from my 160 Meter Antenna.
I put a scope on the Pennant coax and keyed the rig. At about 1 KW out, I
saw about 6 volts pk-pk.
I bought a Receiver protection device.
73, Dick, W1KSZ
On 2/11/2014 4:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:
This might be a
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: (may be snipped)
On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:
I have a dual receive K3. If I have both receivers going, one on each channel,
and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of overloading and
frying the other receiver?
REPLY:
The
I would do it at all! Especially at power
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:16 PM, Bill Turner dezrat1...@wildblue.net wrote:
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: (may be snipped)
On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:
I have a dual receive K3. If I have both receivers going, one on
Check out the front-end protector in the “Articles” section of my website at
www.ad5x.com.
Phil – AD5X
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:
This might be a stupid question, but here goes.
Only unasked questions are stupid.
I have a small lot. I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that
barely fits on the property. I was thinking about getting a vertical
as a second HF antenna. If I
NOT
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:20 PM, Monovasia pontia...@monovasia.com wrote:
I would do it at all! Especially at power
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:16 PM, Bill Turner dezrat1...@wildblue.net wrote:
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: (may be snipped)
On
Hi George,
I'm not 100% sure but I don't think your SUB RX has to be ON to be damaged.
I believe that just connecting an antenna to the AUX RF input will allow RF
into the SUB RX.
There is an internal protective device on the input to the SUB RX called a
carrier operated relay (COR). You can
, 2014 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
This might be a stupid question, but here goes.
I have a small lot. I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits on
the property. I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF antenna.
If I put it up it is going
On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:
I have a small lot. I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits on
the property. I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF antenna.
As it happens, over the past year or so I've been engaged in a serious
modeling study
Neil,
Were you able to see if the shortened fan dipole used by the county ERC has
the feeder connected to all three elements, as would be the case with a
typical fan dipole?
If the feeder is connected *only* to the mid-point of the longest element,
and the two shorter elements are unbroken
Neil,
When you see an antenna element folded back on itself like that, think
linear loading (look it up in the ARRL Handbook or similar). There is
no magic, but it is one way of shortening an antenna. It is not as
efficient as a full length antenna, but is more efficient than using
loading
...@embarqmail.com
To: Niel Skousen nskou...@talisman-intl.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net; qr...@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2012 6:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question
Neil,
When you see an antenna element folded back on itself like that, think
linear loading (look
...@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, June 18, 2012 6:18 AM Subject: Re:
[Elecraft]
Antenna Question
Neil,
When you see an antenna element folded back on itself like that, think
linear loading
(look it up in the ARRL Handbook or similar). There is no magic, but it is
one way
of shortening
Subject: Re:
[Elecraft]
Antenna Question
Neil,
When you see an antenna element folded back on itself like that, think
linear loading
(look it up in the ARRL Handbook or similar). There is no magic, but it
is one way
of shortening an antenna. It is not as efficient as a full length
I'm pretty sure I've seen this antenna on the net, but don't recall the name
nor have I been able to find a link to a description / design data.
The county ERC has a 'shortened fan dipole' with three parallel elements,
spaced about 18-24 apart on each side. the longest element folds back
dozen to a couple hundred miles, maximum.
73, Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Niel Skousen
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 8:26 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector; qr...@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna
Paul
You might like to check out this antenna idea on the Adventure Radio
Society web site:
http://www.arsqrp.com/ars/pages/back_issues/2006_text/0506_text/N7XJa.html
Looks good to me, and it's been used on 40/30/20 with a KX1.
73 Dave, G4AON
___
Is the coax ok?
Add or remove length from antenna. Guessing interaction
between coax antenna. This should demonstrate that pretty
quick.
What is the impedance range of auto tuner?
Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
__
Paul,
A balun may or may not help. and in any case, a balun or
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Paul Webb
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
Hi All
I have been playing with my KX1 in the back yard the last week or so and
found that about 26ft of wire in the hot side of the bnc connector and about
the same to the cold side gets me a good match with the built in ATU on
Paul
The loss in poorly matched coax can be very high, you might consider
using a length of 300 Ohm ribbon cable instead. You will need a balun at
the KX1 end of the ribbon. With my K1 across 40/30/20/15 I find a 66
foot top (33' each side) with 32 foot of ribbon tunes with the KAT1 in
my
Paul,
A balun may or may not help. and in any case, a balun or no balun is not the
answer to your situation - the 20 ft of coax is acting like an impedance
transformer, and without a thorough analysis of your antenna and feedline
system, it is difficult to say what would help. Perhaps some
Try taking a big fat toroid from somewhere and looping your coax
through that about 15 times at the antenna end and see how that works
for you. Alternately, put a bunch of clip-on beads on the coax at the
antenna end and try that. Alternately, try lengthening the antenna on
the 'hot' side as
Hi All
I have been playing with my KX1 in the back yard the last week or so and
found that about 26ft of wire in the hot side of the bnc connector and about
the same to the cold side gets me a good match with the built in ATU on
40,30,20m
Now if I use the same wires but add 20ft of coax
Hi Paul,
Without modeling your antenna, I don't know what the feedpoint impedances
are, but it's a good thing that you can match them with the KX-1. The 20
foot length of coax is transforming the impedance to something outside the
range of your KX-1, and a balun wouldn't help unless (perhaps)
Tom,
While you can run the ladder line right to the shack and connect directly
to the K2, a balun mounted outside and a coax run to the rig works well and
you avoid having to run the ladder line inside which sometimes can be
problematic. There are several low cost 4:1 baluns on the market
Tom - You should use a 1:1 balun to feed the balanced line with the K2
tuner. You can easily make one by wrapping a dozen or so turns of RG-58
through a type 43 or 61 core FT140 or larger. Diz, at
http://partsandkits.com/index.asp
is a good source of these toroids.
Alternately, you can slip a
On 21 Aug 2005 at 8:40, Robert Tellefsen wrote:
Two things will make matching easier. Get two
baluns, 1:1 and 4:1. Put them on the two
antenna ports of the ATU
Looking at the two versions of the BL1 for 1:1 and 4:1
Can you not use a 2pco ( dpdt ) switch or relay to change between the two
and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude
-Original Message-
From: Mike W [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 4:03 PM
To: Robert Tellefsen; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Antenna question - Balun
On 21 Aug 2005 at 8:40, Robert Tellefsen wrote
Hi all,
I'm considering putting up a 40 meter dipole fed with a 450 ladder line.
I have a K2 which I run at about 5 to watts (I do not have the 100 watt
amp). The K2 also has the internal ATU.
I have always used 50 ohm coax up until now. Is there anything I should
know about using the K2
: [Elecraft] Antenna question
Hi all,
I'm considering putting up a 40 meter dipole fed with a 450 ladder line.
I have a K2 which I run at about 5 to watts (I do not have the 100 watt
amp). The K2 also has the internal ATU.
I have always used 50 ohm coax up until now. Is there anything I
96 matches
Mail list logo