Just for the records: The PIC-Chip was defective and is changed now,
thanks to the super fast help of elecraft support Gary and Vic!
73, Gernot DF5RF
Am 08.10.2017 um 01:13 schrieb g...@gmx.net:
Don,
ok will do that. Thanks for help!
73 Gernot DF5RF
Am 07.10.2017 um 02:16 schrieb Don
Don,
ok will do that. Thanks for help!
73 Gernot DF5RF
Am 07.10.2017 um 02:16 schrieb Don Wilhelm:
Gernot,
You either have a malfunctioning U1 or you have a bad relay at K1.
Since you were able to get K1 to operate and select 60 meters, I
suspect U1 is the problem. Request a replacement
Gernot,
You either have a malfunctioning U1 or you have a bad relay at K1.
Since you were able to get K1 to operate and select 60 meters, I suspect
U1 is the problem. Request a replacement from Elecraft support.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/6/2017 7:41 PM, g...@gmx.net wrote:
Hello,
I recently
Hello,
I recently decided to upgrade my K2 to 60m and ordered the K60XV.
After building and installing the module and all the mods, I could hear
signals on 60m, but very very weak. Using the XG3 showed a difference of
8 S-points compared to all other bands. I tried to isolate the problem.
I
Selling QRP K2 serial #1982
Includes: KAF2, KIO2, K160RX, KNB2, KAT2. KSB2, K60XV, KBT2, FDIMP
K2 Keying mod
K2 Rev 2 Firmware upgrade
K2 Revision B upgrade
$900 plus shipping
K1-2 Serial 0652
20/40 meter bands
$200 plus shipping
Dave N1IX
Happy New Year 2009 everyone!
Thanks for your answers so far. Yes, I was aware that Wayne N6KR
designed both the 40A and K2. I was simply amazed to receive an offline
email from him, given the demands on his time! I asked Wayne if I could
share the following:
Wayne wrote that he
I can only compare the K1 and the K2. They are both great kits, but
after that they don't really compare. The K2 is a full-featured rig,
and the K1 is a special-purpose, trail-friendly CW rig. The K1sounds
great, and has filters, and what it does, it does very well. I don't
notice any
Thanks Peter,
I used Lab Receiver Test Data Comparisons (ARRL QST Review Data, plus
some data from Sherwood Engineering).
Using preamp on and 20 kHz spacing (as 20kHz only available for 703 ip3)
MDS – IMD dynamic range = IMD level [ -141 - 91 = -50 dBm]
MDS – BDR = blocking level [-141 –
It's true that linearity and low noise are often sacrificed for larger
dynamic range. How much we sacrifice for the performance we need is a
tradeoff that is has been with us for a very long time: ever since passive
detectors like crystals and electrolytic detectors were replaced by the
Audion and
more often, Hi!
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: Andreas Junge [mailto:andr...@n6nu.org]
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 8:07 AM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] [ K2 KX1 K1 ] Advice sought on Elecraft radios
Ron,
are you sure about this?
IIRC, the Norcal 40A does
I was wondering if I might get some insight, perspective and counsel on
Elecraft CW QRP DX radios from the group.
About six years ago, I lived across the street from MIT Lincoln
Laboratory and Hanscom AFB. Space was limited so I built a NorCal 40A a
purchased a Hi-Q-Antennas 380 Tune A
] On Behalf Of Daniel Paul Perez
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 9:32 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [ K2 KX1 K1 ] Advice sought on Elecraft radios
I was wondering if I might get some insight, perspective and counsel on
Elecraft CW QRP DX radios from the group.
About six years
Toroids - to wind or buy.
Either approach is absolute fine. They are apparently very windable by
the average bear. In my case, I tried to wind one. It was very ugly
and no fun.
Mychael's work is very nice. The toroids look good, evenly spaced and
nicely stripped and tinned. For me there is
Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through the
manuals on the Elecraft site. I've been thinking about building either a K2
or K1. I've read some of the magazine articles that state that the K2 is not
a beginners kit and I have read other sources that state
Hi Gary,
As you have had some kit building experience in the past I don't think you
should have any problems with the K2. The instrucion manual is a very complete
and understandable Heathkit style manual. Just take your time and follow the
instructions and you'll have a very rewarding
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary D Krause
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through the
manuals on the Elecraft site
Gary, I can't claim to be a beginner but I know a lot of beginners have
done it.
It's really quite simple if you follow the manual and take the build one
part at a time. I don't know what you built in the 80's but I've found that
good kits, like the Elecraft rigs, have become easier to build
Thanks everyone for all of the positive responses. I think I'm going to order
a K2 and give it a go!
Gary, N7HTS
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Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
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From: Gary D Krause [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:36 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through
the manuals on the Elecraft site. I've been thinking about building
either a K2
K1 or K2 or Elecraft?
I built the K2 #54xx last spring. Went very well,
soldering skills came back quickly - from my
previous ham Heathkit days ..
One thing I would strongly recommend, although not
necessary - is to buy the PRE-BUILT TOROIDS, from the
Toroid Man Mike. He's listed
One thing I would strongly recommend, although not
necessary - is to buy the PRE-BUILT TOROIDS
I second this motion. Well at least the part that says it's not necessary.
:-)
I agree that if you're advanced in years and have trouble manipulating small
objects you might find winding torroids to
I agree, if we're talking about toroids and not those dreaded overheated
torroids G.
I wind my own but, as Craig says, some builders get frustrated doing the
turns count, stripping the enamel off properly, etc. For them Michael's
service is invaluable. For anyone who wants to shave an hour or so
Yea, I know, we've discussed this before. I'm not going to ask a
general question because it is too easy to get into an apples to oranges
comparison. But I've had the K1 for a bit now and have become familiar
with it's performance and operation. Now I have a better basis for
understanding the
1. How do the IF filters in the K2 compare to the audio filters in the K1.
I can't address the K2, but the variable bandpass filtering in the K1 takes
place in the IF crystal filter network. The audio filtering is fixed.
5. Knob wobbliness. The knobs on my K1 are just a bit wobbly.
Early
Keith KD1E asked:
1. How do the IF filters in the K2 compare to the audio filters in the K1.
I assume they provide more selectivity and greater stop-band rejection. I
also assume the multiple IF stage filters in my Omni will provide even
greater selectivity.
2. How does the RX noise level
Wow guys, Thanks so much for all the info.
You've answered my Q's in style and I now have all the info I need.
K2/100 sounds like a near perfect rig for my needs, time to get one.
The Omni V.9 is going up for sale. We have a ham fest once a year and
it is this weekend. I was going as a buyer
Ron, AC7AC, said:
The K2 does this by using a
PLL that tunes in about 5 kHz steps and then varies the PLL reference
oscillator's frequency to tune smoothly in between those steps. So the
tuning has the true smooth feel and spectral purity .
I say:
When I tune my K2 past a signal, I can
I assume you are saying that you'd like to have a smoother VFO for the local
oscillator in your K1!
The K2 does NOT use a multiturn pot for the VFO. A K1 does. The K1 is a
totally different rig. The K2 uses a high-quality optical encoder for the
main tuning.
Ron AC7AC
-Original
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006, Rick Dettinger wrote:
Ron, AC7AC, said:
The K2 does this by using a
PLL that tunes in about 5 kHz steps and then varies the PLL reference
oscillator's frequency to tune smoothly in between those steps. So the
tuning has the true smooth feel and spectral purity .
I say:
When
When I have the K2 set for the 10 Hz tuning it sounds pretty smooth
to me, but if I have it set for the 50 Hz tuning (as I usually do) I
can very clearly hear the steps as I tune up or down past a CW signal.
I've also heard that on my K1; with very narrow signals and while
tuning very,
Stirling
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1
On Thursday 23 February 2006 16:24, Stephanie Maks wrote:
When I have the K2 set for the 10 Hz tuning it sounds pretty smooth
to me, but if I have it set for the 50 Hz tuning (as I usually
@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:01 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1
I assume you are saying that you'd like to have a smoother VFO for the local
oscillator in your K1!
The K2 does NOT use a multiturn pot for the VFO. A K1 does. The K1 is a
totally different rig. The K2 uses
Hi,
We've just completed extra production runs of our K1, K2, KX1 rigs and
accessories and have just about everything in stock for you last minute
holiday shoppers. Or anyone else who just -has- to order something.. :-)
If you need to receive an order before Dec. 25th, you will need to ship
Hi
I have several extra radios and accessories I need to sell
K2 S/N 3132 with following options
KPA100
KSB2 2.5KHz bandwidth
KNB2
K160RX
K60XV
KAF2
MD2 microphone
new rear panel with xverter connectors
Latest firmware and all latest mods installed, Yasau VFO knob
$1450
K1 S/N 542 with
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