Walk, KE7GWZ asked:
The ridge line (on some poles for a touch more height) is quite doable and
could easily feed into where my radio will one day be. However, I'm a little
concerned about the signal going too vertical and having a bad angle on the
horizon.
Should I be considering a vertical
Hello all!
K0JL who happens to be Polar Bear #25 is the first to enter Area-WSJ!
K0JL has entered into a new dimension and now possess the keys needed to
see into the future of backpacking radio.
The keys into the next portal are on the web pages, but one must have a
keen eye and deductive
Does anyone know a source for ordering replacement tips for a Solomon SL-10
soldering station on the east coast or mid-west? I know Circuit Specialists
has them but it takes awhile to get them from Arizona to Virginia!
I'm about to start on the KPA-100.
Thanks and 73,
Cary, K4TM
K2 #5266
Hi All,
I am considering using my T1 to tune a couple of attic antennas, a 40 mtr
dipole with drooping ends, and a horizontal loop of about 130 feet total
length, as close to the feed point of each antenna as possible to reduce losses
in the coax from shack to attic. I would plan to use a
Be certain you have correctly installed L31 and that it is the 10 uH
shielded inductor. Resistor R115 is about the same size - is there a
possibility that you exchanged these parts?
Be certain you have D16, D17 and D18 inserted the proper way around (the
Parts Placement Diagram is handy for
If the Skunk Works was Area 51, why not name the antenna Aerial 51?
just a thought (or almost one)
John AB8WH
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Being an engineer I am sure you enjoy putting these kinds of pieces
together.
OTOH, the Ameritron 4-position switch placed in your attic will switch up
to four antennas. The control voltage to activate the switch rides on the
coax.
One coax, four antennas. Quality RG213 and your db loss
In a message dated 4/7/2006 11:57:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
http://www.wa3wsj.com/SkunkWorks.html
Okay I found it. Funny thing, I didn't mind getting spammed that time.
/Bill K3UJ
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Just for interest.
On their annual 'night of nights', I've copied KPH here now on 3
consecutive years on 426kHz. Lst year it was good enough to record
send 'em a copy.
Unfortunately, my K2s dont go down that far, so had to use another rig.
But, for a guy who spent 35 yrs at sea as R/O, its
Trying to use a solder sucker on the same side of the board as the soldering
iron usually doesn't work for me either. Some builders trim a notch in the
side of their sucker nozzle to they can put the sucker over the soldering
iron tip.
I put the sucker on the opposite board from the iron and
Despite all the disparaging comments re MFJ, I've never had any problems
with the numerous items I've purchased from them.
Disclaimers ON.
Doug
W6JD
-- Original message --
From: John [EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 10:06:53 -0700 (PDT), Phil,K2ASP wrote:
Don't forget the P-38 Lightening.
Doug
W6JD
-- Original message --
From: EricJ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
And Kelly Johnson's other masterpiece, the SR-71 Blackbird.
A wire resonant vertical antenna doesn't exactly fit the image of the
cutting edge technology associated
Along with all Ron's good comments, I would like to add one more technique
for clearing solder filled holes or holes partly filled with solder - a
tapered stainless steel needle. Heat the hole and the needle and when it is
hot enough push the needle through and the solder will easily clear.
The
Keith W8GX asked:
I have never used a solder sucker before. How is one
used when a part is still on the board? And what is a good solder
sucker to buy?
I remove the part first. Parts are cheap. If in doubt, cut the leads! After
all, the PCB with the rest of the parts
Dave Sublette wrote:
I stopped by to see them at their booth at a large hamfest to discuss
a problem I was having with their 300 watt amp for two meters. In
spite of careful tweaking and adequate drive and power supply, I
could only get 240 watts output, as measured on my Bird wattmeter, I
It was a 500w slug, which leaves us with a 25 watt error, max.
Vic K2VCO wrote:
Dave Sublette wrote:
I stopped by to see them at their booth at a large hamfest to discuss
a problem I was having with their 300 watt amp for two meters. In
spite of careful tweaking and adequate drive and
It must be lost. Elecraft has the best customer service of any ham
manufacturer. They make it happen.
Phil
Philip LaMarche
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com
www.W9DVM.com
727-944-3226
800-395-7795 pin 02
FAX 727-937-8834
NASFT #30210
W9DVM
-Original
Ed,
Just call it Area 51 after the supersecret site in the NV desert
73 GL
Tom K6CT
aka CX7TT
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Amen.
Scott doesn't make mistakes. His accuracy is like Christine - spot on. And
who is Marina? She seems to be just as accurate.
Joe N9JR
Phil LaMarche [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It must be lost. Elecraft has the best customer service of any ham
manufacturer. They make it happen.
Hi all
I'm experiencing a funny problem with my K2 s/n 5361.
My KSB2 board went through intitial testing without problems, all measured
values were OK as per the manual.
My TX audio however is horrible. It sounds very choppy (one ham reported to me
it sounds 'very restrained'), it seems like
Alas, I too am waiting for some parts omitted from my KPA100 and I'm in
the same boat as Fred -- six days and nada (although they did get me a
bunch of parts ordered on Wednesday tout suite!). I think we're spoiled.
-- Joe, W2RBA
Phil LaMarche wrote:
It must be lost. Elecraft has the best
In a former job we used Bird slug/wattmeters on all of our RF generators -
500w-25KW. We had a box of over 100 new slugs that were off by 20-50%. We
never assumed because it said Bird that is was accurate. They were checked
against a calorimeter at a set frequency of 13.56MHZ at fixed power
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