Hi All,
The last 10 months have flown by settling back into Australia after 4 years
in Seattle. At last I have found time to work on the KPA100 that I bought
just before I left the US. I have the following few quick
comments/questions that I'm hoping someone can confirm/answer (I have a few
Hi All,
just finished assembly of my latest K2/100 (the fourth K2 I built) and for
thefirst time I'm having trouble getting things running.
During testing I noticed a strange behaviour: Some of the option modules
are getting lost sometimes and being displayed as not inst. Tracing
things down
Sounds like the circuit is trying to pull the crystal farther than it will
oscillate properly. The crystal might be marginal, the varactor might be flaky
or there may be a wrong part in the circuit. The other possiblity is that the
waveform of the oscillator is such that the counter circuit
Suggest you look for solder bridges. The KDSP2 has several close pads that
are easy to bridge. I had some problems with the module. In my case it
seemed to work but had two solder bridges. My excuse is old eyes.
Luck
Allen
___
Elecraft mailing list
Hi, I'm proud owner of K2 SN 4426. Have built this out as a QRP rig
with KBT2, KATU, KDSP, SSB, NB. Ordering the 160 module today. I also
want to have 100W capability but don't think I want to build it in the
rig, I'd rather put it in a EC2.
The main reason I don't want to build the KPA100
Can I keep the 20W tuner
in the rig if I put in the KPA100 and just put it in CALP mode?
The 20W tuner won't fit in the K2 with the KPA100. But you can keep the
20W tuner in the K2 if the KPA100 is remoted.
All of the posts I have seen regarding remoting the KPA100 always
include the
The product to grab the surge is one part of a *system*.
What do you do with the surge after you grab it?
Read the article on grounding here for an extensive, pertinent
discussion:
http://www.swssec.com/white_paper.html
Second from the top (as of Nov 2004)
Steve WA3SWS
Excellent catch by both you and Jim, K4ZM, who replied off line. A flaky
input stage to the counter certainly would fit the symptoms.
Please, never be shy about speaking up on the reflector! That's what makes
this forum so valuable.
It's been nearly four years since I built old number 1289 and
I am looking for a built KX1 with tuner. Are there any out there looking
for a new home??
Tim VE6SH
===
This e-mail is intended only for the named recipient(s) and may contain
information that is privileged , confidential and/or exempt
Hello all,
The Amateur Radio Covered Bridge Society or ARCBS is proud to announce
its very first covered bridge Jingle Bell Romp Award.
The award will be a 8.5 x 11 certificate with a covered bridge and
Christmas theme. I think that little chubby, white-hair guy might be on
it. It will be a
Can anyone recommend a good temp controlled soldering station? Preferably
under $100 :-)
Thanks, Bob Johnson/W4MKO
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.3.0 - Release Date: 11/13/2004
I have one of the Circuit Specialists models
http://circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307
at $35 a real bargain. I've been very happy with it and am using it to
build my K2 (about half done, and I'm pleased with the soldering.
I've used the Weller WT-TCP (or something close to
Bob,
I have been quite pleased with my Solomon Soldering station - just a bit
more than half of your $100 target. It is sold by Marlin P Jones
Associates, www.mpja.com (maybe others too). I have had the one with the
LED bar display for over 4 years now and have not had any complaints.
I have a Hakko 936 that I really like. I like it better than the Wellers
because I can adjust the temperature by a simple twist of the knob. Comes up
from cold to 700F in about 20 seconds, and has plenty of heat to avoid
temperature droop when doing a lot of joints.
I bought one a couple of years
14 matches
Mail list logo