Hi, all concerned:
I have tinnitus and some hearing loss at age 61, and have found the
PlaneQuiet NC-5 cans helpful in the shack and in the mfg shop where I'm a
tech. They're light, and they reduce the racket from HVAC, refrigerators,
freezers, amp blowers, computer blowers, and so on.
Whats a KAP100? Sorry about the typo.
I just put up an 1/2 wave antenna for 160 meters that is 260 feet long and
center fed with 450 ladder line. When RXing on all bands and moving the PWR
contorl to 11 watts or more so the relay in the PA switches over to high, I get
erratic noise in the
The link is password protected.
Bill
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David J Windisch
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 7:34 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Noise-reducing cans
Hi, all concerned:
I have tinnitus
This is my second AF button that I must change since I built my K2 last spring.
The button began to get loose again. Sometime the audio fade out a little bit
and came out right after All the other one are OK, but it seems that the
POWER button will do the same eventually... in my case.
On page 60 of the K2 manual the PLL Reference Oscillator Range Test
asks for the Ref. High Freq. and Ref. Low Freq. measurements. I have
HI = 12099.67
LO = 12090.50
DIFF 9.17
which is less than the 9.8 to 15 kHz required by the manual.
Everything else looks good. Any ideas? Any help would be
It's not pasword protected the link had a typo, it should be a forward slash
after roadwarriorcontent
try
http://www.thetravelinsider.info/roadwarriorcontent/planequietnc6headphones.
htm
73 KI4DGH
Chuck Gehring
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf
Scott,
Just to check, can you look at what the voltage swing is at U6 pins 1, 2 and
3 when you do the Ref High Freq and Ref Low Freq measurements? Compare to
the voltage table on page 17 of Appendix E in the manual.
If the voltage swings are not correct, you have a likely problem with the
If one does not plan on anything but cw/ssb is it necessry to install
the crystal oven?
tnx
73
Bill
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At 04:24 AM 1/2/2005, Stewart Baker wrote:
On Sat, 1 Jan 2005 17:51:33 -0800, wayne burdick wrote:
And now a word from the designer ;)
--
I'm not sure when we'll be able to update the KNB2 design, but in the
meantime, I'll be happy to answer questions for anyone who wants to try
their
Is there anyone on this list who can confirm that the top cover screws of the
KAT100-1 are directly inline with the bottom cover screws of the K2?
Has anyone attempted to use 4-40 threaded rod and nuts to anchor the KAT100-1
beneath the K2? I would like to try that once I get my KAT100-1.
Basic Severe Storm Spotters Guide, Larry Ledwick, Emergency File
Publications, Copyright 1996.
Great reference for Skywarn active hams.
ARES District 10 Severe Weather Training Handbook Reference Guide
1999. Produced for D10 but may be useful to others.
I figure $2 for medial mail rate
Please ignore...there is not a 1:1 relationship between the screws on top of
the KAT100-1 and the bottom of the K2. Drilling is required.
- Original Message -
From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 3:26 PM
Subject:
Both items are spoken for.
Thanks for the response.
--
73, Rod N0RC
- Original Message -
From: Rod N0RC [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 2:49 PM
Subject: [QRP-L] free for the postage...
Basic Severe Storm Spotters
Until 1/5/05, you can get a Dell SC420, 2.5GHz Celeron, 1G Ram, 80G
Harddrive, CD-Rom for $234.
I just ordered 4!
Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
No affiliation, blah, blah, blah, I just lost 3 servers over the weekend and
I'm OUT of spares and very nervous.
It's a bear to find.
www.dell.com, click small business, Click Servers, Storage and Networking,
Scroll down a bit and click Customize it next to the $224 teaser (that's a
40G harddrive). Pay LOTS of attention. Some of the options have prices
like remove $99.
Don't know if this link will work for
It seems to me that the right way to do this is a set of side panels
for the combined set of K2 and KAT100.
Some day, maybe.
73, doug
From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 17:31:32 -0500
Please ignore...there is not a 1:1 relationship between the screws on top of
Last night I redid my C22 reference oscillator adjustment using WWV on 10mhz as
the zero beat reference. This is the third time I have adjusted C22 and each
time I am able to adjust C22 to a precise offset balancing TP1 and TP2.
However, when I put the cover back on the K2/100 I find that WWV
Did you re-run CAL PLL, ** AND ** XFIL on ** ALL ** Modes (USB, LSB, CW,
CWR, RTTY, RTTYR)
** AND ** when running CAL XFIL you MUST change the number (up or down at
least on digit and then back to the same number) so that the MCU knows that
it needs to re-store the frequency settings for the
HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr. W1WF wrote:
Last night I redid my C22 reference oscillator adjustment using WWV on 10mhz
as the zero beat reference. This is the third time I have adjusted C22 and
each time I am able to adjust C22 to a precise offset balancing TP1 and TP2.
However, when I put the cover
It would be nice if there were side panels to do that plus a modified top
cover on the KAT100-1 with recessed cups for the 4 feet of the K2 to drop
down into so that when all was said and done the radio/tuner would become
one unit, solid side panels and flush with no gap between them along the
From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 19:20:04 -0500
It would be nice if there were side panels to do that plus a modified top
cover on the KAT100-1 with recessed cups for the 4 feet of the K2 to drop
down into so that when all was said and done the radio/tuner
Steve, the Astron has the ratings to handle the K2 plus 100 watts. It also
has voltage regulator that should limit the current, so added breaker is
optional. It should be slightly larger than the current draw of the K2 plus
the amplifier, if used.
If you do not use the breaker, be sure to fuse
Hi,
I am just at the first alignment and test stage of my K2. Everything
checked out just fine except the step where I am to adjust R1 on the
control board for 3.80 v on pin 5 of U2. The highest I can get the
voltage to go is 3.38v. Is this something to worry about? If so, any
clues?
I have an Astron 35 and the foldback circuitry is pretty nice. I had the
two power leads that go from the KPA100 to the K2 pinched between the
shield and the side of the case, making a nice dead short. My Astron
just folded back the voltage and no fuses were wasted.
I wouldn't suggest this as a
Scott;
You definitely want the PLL reference to tune at least 9.8 kHz so you don't
compromise the performance on 160 meters. If L31 is 10uH, going to 12uH
will cure the problem without causing any bad side effects. You can ask
Elecraft to send you the different value inductor.
The narrow and
Neil,
Yes you apparently have something wrong.
The voltage measurement comes from a purely resistive network fed by 8
volts, and there is not much to troubleshooting it - that is if you can
manage to probe the pins of R-Pak RP6.
With the RF gain in the full clockwise setting, you should
Just wanted to share my experience with the NB in one of my boat anchors,
the yaesu FT-401B (tube rig) from the 70's.
This NB works almost as good as the best ones I have tried, it does not
introduce any distortion in even the strongest signals and has only an
on-off switch. (no level
I remembered this thread and when I was looking at the slashdot article
on RF shielding paint the other day, remembered that I had problems with
my K2 and a flourescent Ott light, presumably from its transformer. I
ordered some Metglas tape from these folks, and tried a few layers of
it
Wow! Now, there is no excuse for not being able to do digital modes!!
Ron wb1hga
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I never operate 10M but just checked my K2 with the KPA100 and found the
same thing with a strong birdie at around 28262. The weird thing is that
when I turned off the KPA100 (reducing power below 10W) the birdie at 28262
shifted up about 1kc and the birdie at 28019 shifted down about 500c.
I've only been licensed about three years but have
been building electronic kits and related hardware
since 1954. My intent is to build a K2/100 with most
of the bells and whistles but have been unable to find
specific answers to three questions.
1. How does the K2/100 key an RF amplifier
I got a new Scanner for Christmas and no longer use the UMAX scanner. Noted
that it had a small 12VDC switching power supply. Checked out the voltage,
polarity, current rating, etc and decided it would work as a neat SMALL
portable P/S for the K1/K2 when on trips. In researching the P/S found
From: Gregg R. Lengling [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Jim Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Questions from a Possible Builder/Owner
See my answers interleaved after the questions.
Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Un-Retired
K2/100 SN 3075
I never operate 10M but just checked my K2 with the KPA100 and found the
same thing with a strong birdie at around 28262. The weird thing is that
when I turned off the KPA100 (reducing power below 10W) the birdie at 28262
shifted up about 1kc and the birdie at 28019 shifted down about 500c.
Jim Harris wrote:
1. How does the K2/100 key an RF amplifier (AL-811)?
I have a Heil footswitch with a second cable for
amplifier keying. But, would prefer to use keying
from the rig itself.
It has a built-in transistor switch that will switch +200V at 1A. It goes low
at least 15ms
Has anyone tried wireless headfones such as these with their K2?
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLGproduct%5Fid=33-1219
I am curious how they handle being around a transmitting ham radio. The idea
of being able to walk into the kitchen to refill a cup of coffee without
Hi Jim,
1. How does the K2/100 key an RF amplifier (AL-811)?
I have a Heil footswitch with a second cable for
amplifier keying. But, would prefer to use keying
from the rig itself.
The KPA100 has a built-in solid state keying circuit for positively keyed
amplifiers (like your AL-811).
Thanks! The foil is supposed to have be very good for magnetic
shielding and so I thought I would try it, as it is small and light
enough that it could be put inaide the rig if it works. I will report
when I try it on L30.
Leigh.
On Mon, 3 Jan 2005 6:53 pm, Stuart Rohre wrote:
Leigh, most of
At the top of the configuration list:
Note: For server use only; CANNOT BE USED AS A DESKTOP.
Dell does not support the use of a graphics card on the SC420.
Still, a great price. The other desktops they're selling are priced
well.
Paul NN0C
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Original Message
Subject:thanks
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 18:14:53 -0600
From: Robert Conley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
GE Mychael,
I just wanted to say thanks for the excellent job that you did on my
toroids. It probably cut my built time by at
Fred and All,
I do it all the time! I use an RCA wireless headphone system that cost
about $50 on sale. Works great. I can go through most of the house and still
hear fine. It can get spotty in places. Be careful though. Not all of these
systems work that well. Some time back I had
Leigh, most of your coupling may be magnetic, if shielding did not reduce
the RFI.
You might want to experiment with steel shim stock or even tinplate from
cans.
The easiest fix is distance: Moving the rig away from magnetic and
electric field sources of transformers as you have found.
GL,
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