In a message dated 18/03/05 01:27:47 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
I don't expect the K2 to have lab grade
performance, nor to outperform high price rigs. My sole reason for looking
into this (believe me I've got better things to do) is due to complaints
about my signal
Thanks for further comments. Yes the internal counter cable is removed. I
should also have made clear that my tests have been on unkeyed transmitted
carrier, and have been with both the 100W pa on and off by appropriate
setting of the power control. I have recently checked the pa bias
Look for it on the air KX1 Ser#1056 completed. Build time just under 20
hours. Beautiful rig and a fun rig. Someone with more knowledge than I
won't even have to ask questions. Pictures have been up loaded to my
web site http://www.kc5wa.us.
72/71 de rc kc5wa
I have a strange one for the group.
I use a TigerTronics SignaLink for PSK. Yesterday I
set the jumpers up to use it on the K-2. The interface
can get it's power from the mic jack. The manual
states that the unit draws 10 ma and I've used it this
way on my IC-735. When I tried power up the
Howard,
If your SignalLink interface has large capacitors on its voltage input line,
the answer is YES - it will draw significantly more than 10 ma when you turn
the switch on.
YES it is likely that the SignalLink is causing the +5 volt rail on the
front panel and Control board to drop long
Hi,
What's a good antenna for portable ops on 20 or 40 meters? I have a wire
for use with the KX1, but it requires a tree, and you don't find trees
everywhere. I was thinking about one with a base, or one that could be use
with a base. There's a lot of them out there, but I'm looking for a
All,
In my haste to try ideas for improving the K2 filter characteristics I
committed
a Cardinal Sin - I didn't take any photographs of the process.
Could I ask that anyone who is going to build the Pre-Filter, take photos
of the construction procedure (particularly where to hacksaw the PCB).
Chas,
I consider the most versatile to be a non-metallic telescoping pole to use
as a support. it can hold your wire vertically if you want, or since I
prefer balanced antennas, it can support the center of a dipole fed with
coax, or my real preference for portable work, a 44 foot wire center
Don is essentially right as to what is happening, although the MCU is
not being scrambled. The 5A line is connected directly to the
18C452's reset line (MCLR). When 5A drops below about 4.5 volts for at
least 200 microseconds, it triggers a reset for the microcontroller. It
doesn't take
Thanks for all the help on my blank display problem. I've followed everybody's
suggestions. I even resoldered every point. Checked r15r16. And other
things. But when I turn it on I still get the lighted display with no words or
anything. And I hear a click a second or two after I turn it
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 18/03/05 17:35:05 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
Thanks for all the help on my blank display problem. I've followed
everybody's suggestions. I even resoldered every point.
Roland,
Check that you have soldered pin 1 on U1,
R Kevin Stover wrote:
...If some of you will recall, I picked this up with the front board and
control board complete. I carefully (or so I thought) retraced every step
in the manual and am up to phase 1 of the testing and calibration...
-
Was the MCU (U6) installed in that
Charles,
I got a Minuteman vertical on close out at local ham store. It is still
available I think on web. (Google the name) it has pvc mast and base and is
for 20 and up. It has partly a telescoping whip top section. Worked great
last year on a QRP outing in so so propagation.
You could
Greetings Elecraft Gang,
A few weeks ago discussions were held on this reflector regarding the search
for a dust cover
for the Elecraft/Bencher Hex Paddle. Today I received a custom made dust cover
for my
paddle. I am pleased with the cover, the workmanship and the cost. I'm not
sure if I am
In a message dated 18/03/05 19:27:35 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
I should have added if it wasn't clear that you need to remove U1 before
trying the heated socket procedure.
---
Think I must have removed the chip
Thanks to everybody who kindly replied my message about my Witchcraft
K1 yesterday. The problem with no TX-output is now solved, and no, it
was not a bad solder joint causing the trouble. Instead it was resistor
R-30 (3.3 Ohm) on the RF board which caused the problem. It´s likely
that the
Tony,
If your dust cover was made by Stan, K7NUU, then the URL is:
http://www.radiocovers.com/elecraft.htm
Stan just made a cover for my Hexkey that looks great. We'll be posting
a photo of this cover on our Hexkey page, along with the link to Stan's
site, on Monday.
This is a great way
Hi all.
Q: Once parts are installed, (ICs, etc.) is it neccessary to use a wrist
strap??
Q: Is the solderless BNC (Radio Shack) ok?? There are 2 types at RS:
a screw in and a clamp type.
Building #4758 now. Man, some of the parts are incredibly tiny!! Last
kit I built was a Heathkit,
George, N4YM asked:
Q: Once parts are installed, (ICs, etc.) is it neccessary to use a wrist
strap??
Q: Is the solderless BNC (Radio Shack) ok?? There are 2 types at RS:
a screw in and a clamp type.
When you handle unplugged boards, use EDS protection. Just touching an
I replied to George directly.
I have had trouble while mobile with a Radio Shack twist on BNC loosening on
my RG 58 coax antenna lead. Amphenol is carried by Mouser with no minimum
order, and has both crimp on and solder and clamp type BNCs.
They also have a twist on Amphenol, but have not
Q: Is the solderless BNC (Radio Shack) ok?? There are 2 types at RS:
a screw in and a clamp type.
Once I needed a BNC and that was all RS had. Unfortunately I found that
they won't work with the type of RG-58 which has a stranded center
conductor, so I picked up a clamp/solder type at
Crimp tools run from about $50 for limited sets of dies at Mouser, to $200
for a do everything crimp tool from Pasternak Enterprises. I have two types
of Pasternak tools at work and although not cheap they last forever.
But check other distributors catalogs. Places like MCM might have a better
Fraser said:
I don't expect the K2 to have lab grade performance, nor to outperform high
price rigs.
Dan said:
I don't know about your expectations, but mine are quite high. I _DO_ expect
my K2 to outperform high price rigs.
Fraser said:
Hi Dan, well in many respects the K2 does outperform
Hey gang,
K2 #4834 showed up here today! Did anyone else like making words out of
7 segment calculator numbers years ago? Let's see, 4834 would be
'hEBh', which must stand for
Hey!Elecraft Boxes're Here! or is it
HaveElecraft? Builder's Heaven!or more likely it just
Pepperdine, Brien (CAB) wrote:
Using Acrobat search function on the PDF of the parts layout is in my
opinion a stroke of genius.
The time I spent looking for component placements yikes.
Everyone who can do this, should. They will be much less stressed...
One of the list residents did warn
While doing a variety of updates for ol' K2 #185, I went searching for
the highly recommended Edsyn AS196 solder sucker. By far the best deal
I could find was from EAE Sales (http://eaesales.com/items.htm) for $16.
Bruce was friendly prompt. Though he deals in a lot of surplus
equipment,
Chas,
I use two mobile ham stick antennas for my K1 - 20 and 40 meters. I've
attached a mobile truck mirror mount onto a tent stake. When I travel, the
ham sticks (broken down) are about 4 feet in length. I put my K1,
batteries, key and the mount/stake combo in a cushioned lunch bag. I also
For short runs, 2 feet, from rig to tuner or portable coax (25 feet) to
antenna I use Belden RG-174 coax. I use the solder RCA phono plugs
use a RCA phono to BNC connectors.
Small rigs tuners handle better with the smaller coax loss at HF
frequencies with short runs is not enough to make
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