Re: [Elecraft] OT: very lightweight telescoping
I can recommend the pole in www.spiderbeam.co. I have had some of this kind, even so-called strong. Normally they are limited to 10m(33ft). In practise you have to take out 1 or 2 topmost parts. So you end somewhere to 8m (27ft). But now: this pole is solid enough for wires up to 12m (40ft). Here we have a field-day winner. Metal mast is a must if a beam is in question. But gain is rapidly decreasing when going down from 12m (40ft). You loose the power gain but of course beam has directivity, if that is important. So my rule is: lightweight horizontal over 10 meters for 14 MHz. To-day my favorite is inverted L (10.5 + 10.5m), voltage feed down next to XCVR. No heavy feedlines. Makes quite a weapon for 7 and 14 MHz. One end tied to this pole, the other to second pole or tree. 73, have fun Benny, OH9NB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 S/n 01432...The Saga Continues...
Guy's... Here we are again...hours after my last post to the group...! Well.. would just like to say a BIG Thankyou to all of you who replied to my previous e-mail...regarding the screws n things, that seemed to be fitted in the wrong orientation,.. on my Baby K2 here... I took the advice on-board ...changed the screws around (..think it would be 180 degrees..!) and things in that department turned out fine...I managed to mate ALL 3 boards together, to continue with the alignment process from Page 57 onwards in the manual... Here's the story so far...! Have done all of the above...and was just about to go ahead and try the rest of the alignment, when I thought..wait a minute...the rig should turn on now..as before ..and if I don't hear anything... well...it SHOULD turn on though.. ..RIGHT..?? Well...unfortunatley for me... I can't seem to get her to turn on (...he says...smilin to himself...with a cough..!)...I've put all the relevant side panels, front panel etc onto the rig,..plugged the rig into my 30 AMP shack PSU as before... Pressed the ON Switch...waited for the EEPROM to do it's thing... NOTHIN..!!! No Display... No Rig Noise... No Frequency Display ... I CAN hear the relays click as I press the ON switchthere does'nt seem to be any burning smell or smoke emmitting from the rig at this time tried this several times ..with the same results... NOTHING..! On power up ...I've noticed heat emmitting from the rig...as if shes tryin'...and Q22 on the RF Board DOES..heat up..dunno if this is meant to happen...but could feel the heat coming off it from inside the rig... Any ideas anyone... Andy [EMAIL PROTECTED] ...I Just See It.!.. John A. Ross (RSD Communications circa 2004) A.R.S. GM0NWI QRP ..It is vain to do with more A Dis-Orientated Kiwi... K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Airwhat can be done with less.. In The Northern Hemisphere... GQRP No.9576 QRP-L No.2165 ARCI No.10561 Central Florida DX Association (CFDXA) Alaska QRP Club No.190 Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061 ICQ No.31899603 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 insertion loss
The T1 specification sheet makes no mention of insertion loss, so I thought I would try to measure it. I used the FT-817 as an exciter, and measured the output power using the Elecraft DL1 dummy load and my DMM. The FT-817 produced a consistent power output to within 0.01W each time it was keyed, and there were no anomalous results to suggest some other factor contributing to measurement error. There was only 0.2% loss when the T1 was IN, compared to OUT, and this was pretty consistent across all bands. (With such a low level of loss it is almost within the limits of experimental error.) There was a more significant loss introduced by the T1 itself, determined by comparing the measured power with it in circuit, and the power with the DL1 connected directly to the cable from the radio. This loss was 4% at 3.5MHz, 7% at 28MHz and 8% at 50MHz. Do these figures seem reasonable? I would have expected a bigger loss with the matching networks switched in, but a smaller one caused by the T1 simply being in circuit. 73, -- Julian, G4ILO G4ILO's Shack: http://www.tech-pro.net/g4ilo ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] construction
I noticed the ham who took pictures for the site build his add-ons first. Should I be doing that? Or is it OK to build the kit and then the Antenna tuner? -- Cheers, Alan From the Mandrake Linux ver 9.2 system of Alan, VY2WU A Windoze free zone. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] construction
Alan, The normal way is to build the K2 first and then do the options. There is no way to properly test the options until after the K2 is up and running. You MAY do it the other way 'round, but you have been informed of the consequences. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I noticed the ham who took pictures for the site build his add-ons first. Should I be doing that? Or is it OK to build the kit and then the Antenna tuner? -- Cheers, Alan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Non-resonant loop
What a *great* group of suggestions! Thanks much for the ideas. Thanks to you all, I'm armed and dangerous as I go explore the RF capabilities of the new QTH. My K1-4 will be happy as a clam ... and the 706MkIIG won't mind either. They were sad to leave the 180' long wire. I was sad to leave all the copper counterpoise in the yard ... Now, if I can fix it so the RF doesn't freeze in the winter ... 73! gene KC0RXY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft KAT100-2 external 100W antenna tuner SOLD
Thanks to all who responded. The tuner has been sold. 72, Dick, W0NTA Greeley, CO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 S/n 01432...The Saga Continues...
Andy I know it is working now but might be worth mentioning what the problem was as its an easy one to do ;-) I will pop in later with a counter to get you started on Part II John -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Andy GM0NWI Sent: 12 April 2005 07:58 To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 S/n 01432...The Saga Continues... I took the advice on-board ...changed the screws around (..think it would be 180 degrees..!) and things in that department turned out fine...I managed to mate ALL 3 boards together, to continue with the alignment process from Page 57 onwards in the manual... Here's the story so far...! Have done all of the above...and was just about to go ahead and try the rest of the alignment, when I thought..wait a minute...the rig should turn on now..as before ..and if I don't hear anything... well...it SHOULD turn on though.. ..RIGHT..?? Well...unfortunatley for me... I can't seem to get her to turn on (...he says...smilin to himself...with a cough..!)...I've put all the relevant side panels, front panel etc onto the rig,..plugged the rig into my 30 AMP shack PSU as before... Pressed the ON Switch...waited for the EEPROM to do it's thing... NOTHIN..!!! No Display... No Rig Noise... No Frequency Display ... I CAN hear the relays click as I press the ON switchthere does'nt seem to be any burning smell or smoke emmitting from the rig at this time tried this several times ..with the same results... NOTHING..! On power up ...I've noticed heat emmitting from the rig...as if shes tryin'...and Q22 on the RF Board DOES..heat up..dunno if this is meant to happen...but could feel the heat coming off it from inside the rig... Any ideas anyone... Andy [EMAIL PROTECTED] ...I Just See It.!.. John A. Ross (RSD Communications circa 2004) A.R.S. GM0NWI QRP ..It is vain to do with more A Dis-Orientated Kiwi... K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Airwhat can be done with less.. In The Northern Hemisphere... GQRP No.9576 QRP-L No.2165 ARCI No.10561 Central Florida DX Association (CFDXA) Alaska QRP Club No.190 Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061 ICQ No.31899603 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 S/n 01432 Construction Update..
Guy's.. Just to let everyone who WILL see my e-mail on the reflector soon from this morning... To IGNORE...the plea for help...! Time has passed today, since posting that e-mail to the reflector... the day is nearing closure... ONCE AGAIN..! My well respected .Elecraft K2 Elmer ...John Ross GM1BSG.. saved the day...! On inspection of the rig (...a little closer than I had actually done while constructing her early this morning...) it was noticed, ...found... corrected... that I had INDEED...not mated the connector pins from one of the boards to the connector on the RF Board quite correctly...!! sigh..! blinks in disbelief..! Yes..! indeed...the whole episode of panic..was for no reason whatsoever... and this was the reason as to my baby not turning on and lighting up this morning..!! I can now say WITH convictions...! that I feel rather stupid...and small for overseasing this foresight..! With a fresh pair of eyes and a much better logical mind... John...actually noticed that this was indeed the problem... Without ALL 3 boards,...being mated together properly of course things will NOT function as they should..!! Here is one happy Elecrafter for sure... All that remains now is to go ahead and fine tune the section for letting her sing on 40m...! Thanks to everyone who has and who probably will still...see the earlier e-mail to the reflector... your comments are still welcome as they may help others...but I for one are well on the road to the final success and so far, barring this oversight on my partALL stages have went very smoothly and much better than first anticipated... Thanks for the help guysand the bandwidth... Watch this Space...! Andy [EMAIL PROTECTED] ...I Just See It.!.. John A. Ross (RSD Communications circa 2004) A.R.S. GM0NWI QRP ..It is vain to do with more A Dis-Orientated Kiwi... K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Airwhat can be done with less.. In The Northern Hemisphere... GQRP No.9576 QRP-L No.2165 ARCI No.10561 Central Florida DX Association (CFDXA) Alaska QRP Club No.190 Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061 ICQ No.31899603 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 S/n 01432 Construction Update..
Andy GM0NWI wrote: Guy's.. Just to let everyone who WILL see my e-mail on the reflector soon from this morning... To IGNORE...the plea for help...! Time has passed today, since posting that e-mail to the reflector... the day is nearing closure... ONCE AGAIN..! My well respected .Elecraft K2 Elmer ...John Ross GM1BSG.. saved the day...! On inspection of the rig (...a little closer than I had actually done while constructing her early this morning...) it was noticed, ...found... corrected... that I had INDEED...not mated the connector pins from one of the boards to the connector on the RF Board quite correctly...!! sigh..! blinks in disbelief..! Yes..! indeed...the whole episode of panic..was for no reason whatsoever... and this was the reason as to my baby not turning on and lighting up this morning..!! I can now say WITH convictions...! that I feel rather stupid...and small for overseasing this foresight..! Hey, Andy, you don't have to feel stupid nor small -- we're not electronics guys (most of us) and we all make pretty basic errors at time. In my case, the K2 was fine, just had to send it to Gary for a bit of toroid swapping -- yup, I had switched two types of cores! Congratulations of getting your K2 going -- I envy you the assembly experience. 73, Joe, W2RBA K2 #01299 K1 #01005 KX1 #0020 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] heat and wicking
Hi, I am wondering about heat, I am using the mid-range you suggest of 750F for my soldering station. It is hard to get the solder to wick straight through to the other side of the board. I know there is a connection through the hole. In your notes, I don't see any suggestions on how much to heat a component. ie: the rapidity of moving from one pin to the next of the component. When soldering, of course I understand that you heat the metal of both pieces and apply the solder to the metal being soldered. Do I have to be that anal with this kit to make sure they all wick to the other side? In my mind, I risk damaging something along the way. 73 -- Cheers, Alan From the Mandrake Linux ver 9.2 system of Alan, VY2WU A Windoze free zone. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] (no subject)
My earlier question about power output from the K2 being somewhat variable seems to have been answered. When I just the K2's keyer to send some CW during the measurements, the reading are consistent. For some reason, use of a straight key did not lead to consistent output measurement. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Could T1 tune a counterpoise ?
I have a coax-fed multiband dipole (for 40m and up) swung over a 80 ft Platanus acerifolia (what a luck !). For 80m and top band, I use a switch (found in Hints an kinks many years ago) to make it a LW. My shack is upstairs, and I don't want to use the poor AC ground for many reasons. So I need a counterpoise (maybe I'm wrong). It will be short and T shaped to minimize radiation, as shown in Moxon's book (that's my bible). In a previous location I had successfully tuned an upstairs ground lead for top band : it was very pleasant to see the antenna current increase (with a home made RF-peg) as I tuned out the gnd wire reactance. For now I have not enough spare time to DIY (although I assembled the K2, hi). Had a think about Ten-Tec artificial ground, but it's difficult to find here, and now I fully appreciate the auto gearbox of the K2. Then T1 appears : if it searchs for a current maximum, that should work, why not ? So, is it possible to use it as a counterpoise-only tuner ? (KAT2 does the rest) Regards to all es 72 de F5LCI in the french countryside, -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.6 - Release Date: 11/04/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 filter boards
I have a K1 which I purchased all built. It has the 40 and 20 mtr filter board in it. I purchased and built the ATU and noise blanker. I haven't used my other HF rigs since I started using this radio. Now I wish I had more bands to operate on with it. Does anyone have a four band filter board for 40.30,20,15 mtr that has been assembled,aligned and calibrated that is in excess to their needs and would like to sell it ? Or maybe a two band board for 30 and 15. Contact me off list. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 - remote encoder and LCD components
I have an application that involves remotely locating the K2's shaft encoder (Z1) and liquid crystal display components (the backlit LEDs D2 and D3, and the 8 digit LCD, DS1). The extension length is roughly 10 or 15 feet. Are the signals likely to degrade much? I'd plan on using shielded wires for each signal (though maybe not necessary on low frequency onces such as LED power). Coax? Shielded twisted pair? What might be best? --Andrew NV1B ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Could T1 tune a counterpoise ?
I need a counterpoise (maybe I'm wrong). It will be short and T shaped to minimize radiation, as shown in Moxon's book (that's my bible). In a previous location I had successfully tuned an upstairs ground lead for top band : it was very pleasant to see the antenna current increase (with a home made RF-peg) as I tuned out the gnd wire reactance. For now I have not enough spare time to DIY (although I assembled the K2,hi). Had a think about Ten-Tec artificial ground, but it's difficult to find here, and now I fully appreciate the auto gearbox of the K2. Then T1 appears : if it searchs for a current maximum, that should work, why not ? So, is it possible to use it as a counterpoise-only tuner ? (KAT2 does the rest) Regards to all es 72 de F5LCI in the french countryside, Excellent idea, IF the T1 actually tuned for maximum current. Unfortunately, it does not. It uses a bridge circuit to provide a 50-ohm non-reactive load to the transmitter. While that might be better than a short, untuned counterpoise, it is far from ideal. What I have done in your situation is to use a simple coil. A short counterpoise will be capacitive, so what you need is an inductance to bring it to resonance. If you are using a barefoot K2, a small inductor tapped every turn should be FB. I once made one wound on a cardboard tube that once held a roll of paper towels. What Ten Tec does is add a variable cap in series with the coil to allow for small adjustments in between the taps, and to provide a way to tune out inductive reactance in a counterpoise when it is electrically longer than 1/4 wave. You need a current indicator. That's easy. A small flashlight bulb in series with the counterpoise. Short it out after finding the tap with the greatest current. Your QTH makes me hungry for some French Bread and a wedge of Brie. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] K2 - remote encoder and LCD components
twisted pair, KIO2 and a laptop. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snip I have an application that involves remotely locating the K2's shaft encoder (Z1) and liquid crystal display components (the backlit LEDs D2 and D3, and the 8 digit LCD, DS1). /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] heat and wicking
In a plated thru hole, you only have to solder one side, and the conduction is made to the trace on other, as there is already solder in the hole. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Fw: Need winding machine?
I just received the following e-mail about a toroid winding machine. Perhaps it may interest some of you Elecrafters. It was spam, so take it for what it's worth. 73, de Earl, K6SE - Forwarded message -- From: Jack Feng [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 05:16:21 +0800 Subject: Need winding machine? Dear sir, My name is Jack Feng. The oversea sales representative of Guangri winding machine department. Now I recommend the following toroidal winding machine to you. If those winding machine interest you, I will email you the catalog and website. Machine Type Slider wire size(AWG):43-21 Final OD(inches):1-10 Shuttle dia(inches):1-8 Speed(max rpm):1000 Belt head wire size(AWG):35-22 Final OD(inches):2-6 Shuttle dia(inches):1.5-2.5 Speed(max rpm):800 Gear head wire size(AWG):21-9 Final OD(inches):2.5-13.8 Shuttle dia(inches):8-16 Speed(max rpm):200 Main drive 0.5 to 2 HP AC motor Core rotation 0.25HP AC motor Master/slave, proportionally coupled AC inverters. Microprocessor controller: Infinitely programmable, LED display readout. Machine weight: 83-240kg. GuangRi is Chinese largest manufacturer of Toroid Coil Winding equipment, offering a full line of machines for power transformers, current transformers, chokes and inductors. It also produces machines dedicated for the production of variable voltage transformers and toroid taping machines. All equipment is microprocessor controlled. Best regards, Jack Feng Oversea sales representative Guangri Winding machine Tel:+86-757-86791200 Fax:+86-757-86791244 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Need winding machine?
On Tue, 12 Apr 2005, Earl W Cunningham wrote: I just received the following e-mail about a toroid winding machine. Perhaps it may interest some of you Elecrafters. It was spam, so take it for what it's worth. Thanksmy local ISP traps these as spam...never figured it would get sent via the list. I can hardly wait to see low powered sexual appliance ads forwarded here. Thom www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Operating as W6R Lightship RELIEF Jul 15-17
For the Elecraft Event Calendar. Museum Ships from around the world invite any and all Hams, especially Elecraft users to get on the air July 16-17 to work stations operating from onboard over 100 restored museum ships in the US and around the world. Some of these ships like the Lightship RELIEF and Jeramiah O'Brien are operational and some are stationary. Work all the ships you can and get a special commerative QSL cards from many of them. Museum Ships Weekend Radio Event starts July 16 at GMT and ends 2400GMT July 17. In the San Francisco Bay Area there are at least six ships that will be operating, including the USS Red Oak Victory, Lightship RELIEF, USS Potomac, USS Hornet (CVA), Jerimiah O'Brien, USS Pampanito (submarine) among others. You may even work some of them using their original radio transmitters. Mark your calendars and join in the fun. KG6ECI (W6R) operating early evening to early AM from the Lightship RELIEF will be operating 40 and 20 meters using an Elecraft K2 from the original ships radioroom and antennas. See you there... Questions Don Hubbard KG6ECI criticalert.sbcglobal.net We will send out a reminder in July too! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 question
Good people: After all these years I have decided that I may add the KAT2 to my K2 lid. Although I have the KPA100, I use the K2 barefoot when travelling and feel the KAT2 would be of use. A quick perusal of the KAT2 manual suggests that, once the modifications to the K2 have been made for the KPA100, no further mods to the K2 boards are needed for the KAT2. I just thought, however, I would double check with those who know to verify this. Am I correct? many thanks, dave belsley, w1euy ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Need winding machine?
DO NOT forward spam to a list. Most certainly DO NOT - NEVER, EVER - buy a product advertised via spam. To do so is the act of a naif, as it only encourages more spam. I'm trying to think of any reasonable criteria by which you shouldn't be immediately dispelled from the list for spamming (which you have in fact done), and can't. I've a mind to file a report with your ISP for violation of their TOS/AUP. Sorry if this seems harsh, but spam in any form cannot be tolerated. At 07:50 PM 4/12/2005, Earl W Cunningham wrote... I just received the following e-mail about a toroid winding machine. Perhaps it may interest some of you Elecrafters. It was spam, so take it for what it's worth. 73, de Earl, K6SE - Forwarded message -- From: Jack Feng [xxx] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 05:16:21 +0800 Subject: Need winding machine? [spam removed] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Potential Elecraft Kit
Gang, One of the insturments I always wanted for home use was a spectrum analyzer. Nice to have sound card analyzers with software and all, but a real rf analyzer in a small, functional package would be so great. With some careful trade off decisions it might even be affordable! The display is a big headache if you don't have a good Oscope handy but a creative designer [or two] might be able to do the job. I suppose it would not have the broad appeal of a K1, 2 or even a very compact antenna tuner, but it might appeal to a few hundred hams and others who do bench work. Wayne K9NE Yes, I know about the projects already on the web, but how many of you have actually rounded up all the stuff to build that one? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re:[2] [Elecraft] Fw: Need winding machine?
Fortunately, cooler heads than Mike S are in charge here. I hope. I find the concept of a toroid-winding machine intriguing, and now it's got me wondering just how it works. -- 72, Ron McDowell - W5RCM / ZS1MCD w5rcm at volente dot us Austin TX / Hermanus ZA On 12 Apr 2005 20:39:09 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Mike S)] wrote: DO NOT forward spam to a list. Most certainly DO NOT - NEVER, EVER - buy a product advertised via spam. To do so is the act of a naif, as it only encourages more spam. I'm trying to think of any reasonable criteria by which you shouldn't be immediately dispelled from the list for spamming (which you have in fact done), and can't. I've a mind to file a report with your ISP for violation of their TOS/AUP. Sorry if this seems harsh, but spam in any form cannot be tolerated. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Potential Elecraft Kit
Shouldn't be too hard to even have it use a PC as a display, much like the sound card analyzers and PC-based oscilloscopes do, and that should help keep costs down. Count me in! -- 72, Ron McDowell - W5RCM / ZS1MCD w5rcm at volente dot us Austin TX / Hermanus ZA On 12 Apr 2005 19:43:35 -0500, [Wayne Reed [EMAIL PROTECTED]] wrote: Gang, One of the insturments I always wanted for home use was a spectrum analyzer. Nice to have sound card analyzers with software and all, but a real rf analyzer in a small, functional package would be so great. With some careful trade off decisions it might even be affordable! The display is a big headache if you don't have a good Oscope handy but a creative designer [or two] might be able to do the job. I suppose it would not have the broad appeal of a K1, 2 or even a very compact antenna tuner, but it might appeal to a few hundred hams and others who do bench work. Wayne K9NE Yes, I know about the projects already on the web, but how many of you have actually rounded up all the stuff to build that one? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] heat and wicking
Alan, Modern components will handle normal heat of soldering for a short period of time - up to 5 seconds at 750 degrees F. The reality is that it takes both time and temperature to destroy a component, and more components are damaged by 'heat soaking' at a low soldering temperature than are damaged by too heat that is too high. One should be able to achieve a properly soldered connection in 3 seconds or less. Set your soldering temperature to somewhere between 700 and 750 degrees F, and heat the pad as well as the component lead by placing the iron tip in contact with both. If you have the temperature correct, you should achieve a properly soldered connection within about 3 seconds. If you are unable to achieve that, take a stern look at your soldering technique. Be certain that the soldering tip is clean (and has just a bit of molten solder on it to conduct heat to both mating parts), then feed solder in from the side opposite the iron position - it should flow nicely within a second or two. If it fails to do so, exmine your temperature and technique carefully. I prefer to feed enough solder to create a very small fillet on the solder side of the board. Although some folks may say it is unnecessary and 'overkill', it does give me the assurnace that a complete solder connection is present at any particular point. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi, I am wondering about heat, I am using the mid-range you suggest of 750F for my soldering station. It is hard to get the solder to wick straight through to the other side of the board. I know there is a connection through the hole. In your notes, I don't see any suggestions on how much to heat a component. ie: the rapidity of moving from one pin to the next of the component. When soldering, of course I understand that you heat the metal of both pieces and apply the solder to the metal being soldered. Do I have to be that anal with this kit to make sure they all wick to the other side? In my mind, I risk damaging something along the way. 73 -- Cheers, Alan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB: Elecraft KAT100-2 external 100W antenna tuner
Wanted to Buy: KAT100-2 external antenna tuner. 73, Don, K8DJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [2] [Elecraft] Fw: Need winding machine?
On Tuesday 12 April 2005 17:49, Ron McDowell - W5RCM / ZS1MCD wrote: Fortunately, cooler heads than Mike S are in charge here. I hope. I find the concept of a toroid-winding machine intriguing, and now it's got me wondering just how it works. -- 72, Ron McDowell - W5RCM / ZS1MCD w5rcm at volente dot us Austin TX / Hermanus ZA Hi All, As soon as I saw it I deleted it for what it was spam, as all spam should be handled. A simple google gets you all the info you want on how one works... The thing that bothers me more is that many of us got this spam... coincidence? or has the Elecraft mailing list been compromised? 73 Kevin WA6FWF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Non-resonant attic loop
Gene: Hello. I'll relay some of my experiences, since I've been limited to attic antennas, due to living in a townhouse. I have about 20 X 25 ft. of useable attic space. I've probably built about 30 different antennas in the last 4 years, based on about a dozen different basic styles. I use EZNEC to model various loops and end fire arrays, center fed and off center fed versions, loop arrays, etc. and then build them and test them out to see if the performance matches the predictions from the computer models. So far my best multi-bander results have been with a center fed bent dipole/end fire array. My shack is in a spare bedroom directly under the attic, so my feedline is only about 15 feet long. I use ladder line. My current antenna takes up 16 X 10 feet of space. It looks like this: __o l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l_ ___l The o is the feedpoint. Not exactly to scale, but it is center fed along the top, 8 feet on each side of the feedpoint, the sides are 10 feet long, and the bottom elements are 9 ft. 4 inches long, leaving a 8 inch gap. This is installed horizontally in the attic, hanging about 1-2 inches below the roof rafters. As I'm in a 3 story townhouse, the feedpoint and center element is about 37 ft. above ground, and the whole thing follows the roof slope down to around 33 ft. above ground (22 degree sloping roof). In other words, the antenna is as high up off the floor as I can go. I used 1.25 inch copper pipe, and instead of soldering the corner joints, I cut the copper elbows with a hacksaw, then use muffler clamps to hold the joints together. I think you get a much better joint that way, since solder really isn't good for carrying high currents. I polish the inside of the elbows and the outside of the pipe before clamping in order to get a real good electrical connection with wide contact surfaces. I use the new MFJ balanced line tuner and can tune up on everything from 10-80M. If you don't use fat copper pipe, try fat reefer tubing, and avoid joints altogether. It makes a huge difference when you try to use the antenna on the lower bands. Ladder line is critical, as you are running very high SWR on the feedline, ladder line keeps your feedline losses quite low, especially for these short lengths. It has useful patterns on all bands from 10-80M... 20M is omnidirectional, just about 1.5 dB less gain than a regular 20M dipole at its max point of gain. For 15M/17M this acts like an end fire array, with gain perpendicular to the sides. On 40M and 80M this acts like a bent dipole, with gain perpendicular to the center element. The other nice thing is you can clamp a jumper across the 8 inch gap and now you have a 16 X 10 loop, circumference of 52 ft. This has a circular pattern on 40M. and an oval one for 80M. It also has good patterns for 15M, at right angles to the pattern when you don't have the jumper in place. The big advantage of this antenna over a ladder line fed dipole, is that the radiation patterns are different on different bands, allowing you to work in any direction, depending on what band you are on. A center fed dipole is a great multi band antenna, but all your bands are basically pointed towards the same places. Where I am, the Caribbean/South America is at right angles to Europe, so a center fed dipole would get me one or the other, but not both. With this antenna, I can work both regions, as well as all of the U.S. I used this antenna, in the loop mode, for the ARCI Spring QSO party. I didn't have much time to operate, mostly a little in the evenings, about 4.5 hours total, but I did make 40 Q's, mostly on 40 (18) but also 9 on 80M and 11 on 20M. I had literally 3 minutes Sunday afternoon to get on the air and got a couple 15M Q's before running out the door, before getting back for the last hour of the contest. By then, 15M was closed. I used a similar version of this antenna for the 2005 ARRL DX CW contest and made 100 DX q's, working about 10 hours, mostly in the evenings again, and missing most all of Sunday. I even managed to reach Tobago, about 2000 miles, on 80M. I was really excited about that. I used yet a different variation on the same theme (an omnidirectional
RE: [Elecraft] KAT2 question
David, Good choice - but next you will be needing an EC2 enclosure to mount the KPA100 so you can have a 'pick up and go' station. The changes you have already made for the KPA100 will work fine with the KAT2. Actually, fewer changes need to be made on the base K2 to install the KAT2 (I am speaking of the electrical changes rather than the insallation of the AUX RF jack on the RF Board. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Good people: After all these years I have decided that I may add the KAT2 to my K2 lid. Although I have the KPA100, I use the K2 barefoot when travelling and feel the KAT2 would be of use. A quick perusal of the KAT2 manual suggests that, once the modifications to the K2 have been made for the KPA100, no further mods to the K2 boards are needed for the KAT2. I just thought, however, I would double check with those who know to verify this. Am I correct? many thanks, dave belsley, w1euy ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Potential Elecraft Kit: Spectrum Analyzer, Specs?
Hi Wayne, That's sounds very interesting. What frequency range and resolution would you like to have in the spectrum analyzer? What dynamic range is required for it to be useful? Other specification? 73/ Bob - W5BIG - Original Message - From: Wayne Reed [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 7:43 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Potential Elecraft Kit Gang, One of the insturments I always wanted for home use was a spectrum analyzer. Nice to have sound card analyzers with software and all, but a real rf analyzer in a small, functional package would be so great. With some careful trade off decisions it might even be affordable! The display is a big headache if you don't have a good Oscope handy but a creative designer [or two] might be able to do the job. I suppose it would not have the broad appeal of a K1, 2 or even a very compact antenna tuner, but it might appeal to a few hundred hams and others who do bench work. Wayne K9NE Yes, I know about the projects already on the web, but how many of you have actually rounded up all the stuff to build that one? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Potential Elecraft Kit
There are a couple sources for boards for the W7ZOI spectrum analyzer project that ran in QST some years back. Also, for about $500-700 on eBay you can get a used HP or Tek SA that will blow the doors off an inexpensive kit version. If you do a lot of RF design work, it's a must. The two most useful pieces of rf test gear I have ever bought are an HP-8640B signal generator and Tektronix 7L14 spectrum analyzer... together they were less than a decently outfitted K2. Larry N8LP Ron McDowell - W5RCM / ZS1MCD wrote: Shouldn't be too hard to even have it use a PC as a display, much like the sound card analyzers and PC-based oscilloscopes do, and that should help keep costs down. Count me in! -- 72, Ron McDowell - W5RCM / ZS1MCD w5rcm at volente dot us Austin TX / Hermanus ZA On 12 Apr 2005 19:43:35 -0500, [Wayne Reed [EMAIL PROTECTED]] wrote: Gang, One of the insturments I always wanted for home use was a spectrum analyzer. Nice to have sound card analyzers with software and all, but a real rf analyzer in a small, functional package would be so great. With some careful trade off decisions it might even be affordable! The display is a big headache if you don't have a good Oscope handy but a creative designer [or two] might be able to do the job. I suppose it would not have the broad appeal of a K1, 2 or even a very compact antenna tuner, but it might appeal to a few hundred hams and others who do bench work. Wayne K9NE Yes, I know about the projects already on the web, but how many of you have actually rounded up all the stuff to build that one? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] k2-4857
passed align test part 2 hop the rest goes as easy as the first 2 parts ron , kc0tdj ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] rf output reading on s-meter problem
I just finished the kpa100/kat100 in the ec2. Somewhere along the line I've lost the rf output reading on 160/12/10 meters. All the other bands are ok and rf output looks fine. Anybody have any insight into what the check? 73 n8vw -- Pat Collins http://www.linuxcolumbus.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 shakedown
Shook down my new KX1 in the QRP ARCI Spring QSO party - 15 qso's and 11 SPC - most on 20 meters and off the end of my dipole. During the lulls, I also worked HA, OM and a few JA's. This is a nice rig, and very much up to my expectation, although the temptation to lie on the couch with a wire hung over the curtain rod and tune around is great! I am looking forward to taking it on the road this summer. Only question is the single signal characteristic. Stronger signals can be detected on the wrong side of zero beat, although this is barely noticable except in the case of very strong (like AL7FS just down the streeet) signals. All crystals are appropriately grounded. Is this normal for this little rig? 73 Lynn KL7IKV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Need winding machine?
There are always mean, bossy, overreacting people who want to be the police of the world. Don't let them ruin your day, Earl. On Apr 12, 2005, at 8:39 PM, Mike S wrote: DO NOT forward spam to a list. Most certainly DO NOT - NEVER, EVER - buy a product advertised via spam. To do so is the act of a naif, as it only encourages more spam. I'm trying to think of any reasonable criteria by which you shouldn't be immediately dispelled from the list for spamming (which you have in fact done), and can't. I've a mind to file a report with your ISP for violation of their TOS/AUP. Sorry if this seems harsh, but spam in any form cannot be tolerated. At 07:50 PM 4/12/2005, Earl W Cunningham wrote... I just received the following e-mail about a toroid winding machine. Perhaps it may interest some of you Elecrafters. It was spam, so take it for what it's worth. 73, de Earl, K6SE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: KX1 shakedown
Hi Lynn, Glad you like the KX1. A bit of opposite-sideband leak-through is typical for a 3-crystal I.F. filter. But I think you'll find that this rarely gets in the way of operating. When necessary you can increase the amount of opposite-sideband rejection by using a narrower setting of the bandwidth control. 73, Wayne N6KR Only question is the single signal characteristic. Stronger signals can be detected on the wrong side of zero beat, although this is barely noticable except in the case of very strong (like AL7FS just down the streeet) signals. All crystals are appropriately grounded. Is this normal for this little rig? --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Need winding machine?
W8UR (Mike S) wrote: DO NOT forward spam to a list. Most certainly DO NOT - NEVER, EVER - buy a product advertised via spam. To do so is the act of a naif, as it only encourages more spam. I'm trying to think of any reasonable criteria by which you shouldn't be immediately dispelled from the list for spamming (which you have in fact done), and can't. I've a mind to file a report with your ISP for violation of their TOS/AUP. Sorry if this seems harsh, but spam in any form cannot be tolerated. == I included a caveat with my post, so yes, that seems excessively harsh, but please do go ahead and file your report with my ISP. Maybe they'll cut down on the amount of spam they forward to me. Although I do not embrace spamming activities, keep in mind that many spammers are legitimate businesses that find the Internet a convenient method of advertising their wares. Because many Elecrafters have a fondness(?) and a close association with toroid winding, I see nothing wrong with passing the information along to the group. If you don't like it, just bite your tongue and use the delete key. As Abraham Lincoln said, You can please some of the people some of the time.. 73, de Earl, K6SE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Fw: Need winding machine?
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 Thanks for beinging that type of machine to light for me. I had never considered that such a machine would exist (don't know why, I guess I never really thought about it) That is quite a machine to watch go (found a site with a video on it showing the machien at speed HI HI Quite interesting (another item in the if I had stupid money category under neat gizmos I would buy. HI HI) 73 - --- John N5BSD www.N5BSD.Com Linux user #286770 Machine # 246511 http://counter.li.org - - -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Earl W Cunningham Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 12:27 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Need winding machine? W8UR (Mike S) wrote: -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: PGP 8.1 iQA/AwUBQlywjT4STIkCKSUlEQJX0wCdEB+Q7nX6ofWWUYYIwRqeSDbKnMEAoNrN zXm5hTj8YVuwIx5Z9n9E1QUc =dtPg -END PGP SIGNATURE- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: T1 and FT-817 sometimes not tuning
Leigh, You've already figured it out. If you have the FT-817 set for very low power output (0.5 watts), you'll be right on the borderline of what the T1 requires in order to tune accurately. Anything lower than this and tuning won't even start. If the present LC settings present a severe mismatch to the rig on the selected band, the FT-817 might further roll back power. In this case the T1 just blinks the green light, waiting for you to give it a bit more ;) To avoid this, I'd suggest using at least 1 watt and preferably 2.5 watts when re-tuning. The most convenient strategy of all is to use our T1-FT817 adapter. 73, Wayne N6KR On Apr 12, 2005, at 2:22 PM, Leigh L Klotz, Jr. wrote: I gave my new T1 a workout operating /VE3 last week, and found an oddity. Sometimes pressing the tune button and sending dits or dahs doesn't do anything but flash the green LED. Taking the battery out doesn't dix it, but a band change and a retune and then QSY back usually makes it start again http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
