I'm about to construct a K1-2, and wondered if
there were any must-do mods to consider, or if the
current manual is pretty up-to-date with how things
ought to be? TIA.
LL
=
72 es oo, Lloyd, K3ESE - Reisterstown, Maryland FM19pl
KX1#11 - multiPIG+#14 - K1#379 - 20/40M RockMites
What is the spec for the plug for the DC jack on a
KX1 (K1, etc.)?
TIA
LL
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I have a frequency standard by W8DIZ that generates
a signal at 10MHz, 5MHz and 2.5 MHz. Is there a way
to use this for accurate calibration of the receiver
in a 20/40M K1?
LL
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...or Barbers, this Wednesday evening. Free
shaves/haircuts/fun. Four Barbers, three bands, no
waiting. Well, maybe a little waiting.
Details autolog, results at:
http://www.io.com/~n5fc/barbershop_contest.htm
If you can, please stop by for two solid hours of
nonstop QRP excitement!
This just in:
Tonight, we'll also be graced with the presence of
Tony, W6ESE, operating from a QTH on a mountain top
in San Diego's North County (next to the mountain
where the Palomar Observatory Telescope is located).
He'll be running the Drake T-4XB/R-4B twins [reduced
power]to a
Here's Bryan, W0ESE, in his own words:
I can't wait for all the fun. I've been a ham for
a year now and a barber for about 3 months. I will
be running 5W on a K2 into a full wave 20M loop
(copper pipe, Vert.) pointed East-West. I will also
use a trap
Dipole(if possible).
...and
I was ready to set up my Amateur Radio Station. I was
in Oakland, CA, on business, and my second-floor room
had been chosen for its proximity to a one-story shop
across an alley next-door, where I had tossed my
weighted wire last Fall, and had been rewarded with
some nice QSOs up and down the Left
...as we drove to pick up two of my children. I was
early, and had about 40 spare minutes...by design!
Heh, heh...
Up went the 40M Hamstick, I plugged everything in, got
a fine match and was putting out four to five watts.
Up at 7.040, there was a lot of SSB, So I tuned down,
found a pile, it
I knew it would happen one day. The way it went
was: I agreed to build a KAT2 for a friend, and she
shipped her K2 to me for installation. Once I got it,
turned it on, pushed a few buttons, opened it up...I
was a goner. So my new K2 will be on its way soon.
The serial number, I think, is
Prices include shipping to US:
Elecraft KFL1-2 2-band board (built)for 80/17 $50
all unbuilt:
Elecraft KBT1 internal battery option $40
Elecraft KSB2 SSB option $85
Elecraft KIO2 RS-232 Interface $85
thanks, LL/K3ESE
__
--
Message: 42
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2005 21:30:35 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I
Is anyone else here a turtle today?
You bet your sweet a** there is!
I'm (actually, getting back to the thread) a
quasi-turtle. I'll stuff three or four components in a
group, then
Jon, VE8JJ, wrote:
I just want to confirm the assembly instructions:
R18 and R19 are basically resistors with value of 0
(zero) ohms. So you
solder in a piece of wire for each of them. Then if
and when you are ready
to install KAF2, you desolder and remove the two
wires
at R18 and .R19.
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Lloyd,
Are you supposed to but the braid *on top* of the
iron which is heating the solder you are trying to
remove?
I always just put the braid on the joint and
placed the tip of the soldering iron on top of the
braid, heating the braid and the solder.
--- Ken K3IU [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have used CB/Ham Radio Mic plug (274-025) from
Radio Shack with no
problems.
Thanks, Ken, but I seek a plug for the hole, not for
the jack...my intention is not to install the jack in
the first place.
LL/K3ESE
--- Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think I would reconsider that. Even though you
don't wish to ever
operate the thing on phone, you just might decide to
sell it someday,
and having the mic jack installed would probably
increase the value.
Oh, I'll keep the jack. and it will
Let's say you've been trekking through deep snow at
a high elevation, cold and tired. Hungry, too. You're
heading for a hut, not sure you're on the right trail.
Then, suddenly - there it is! And, coming out of the
stovepipe - smoke! Good smoke.
Or you arrive at the annual picnic, to find all
Oooohhh, I'm on the middle of the right-hand side of
p.59 on K2 #4442...it's getting closer...
Meanwhile, I was trying to use the fast-play
function on a borrowed K2. I programmed PF1 for FPon.
Then, it says to use the FPLY menu entry to select a
switch group. I'm not finding that entry...is
OK, I got to p.60. Plugged in the freq. probe, got it
to TP3, did the CAL thing, and got .00. Tried to
measure with my DMM's freq counter with that still
connected...and while doing this, the K2 read about
10.96 something, changing rapidly. Disconnected the
DMM from TP#, the K2 read 0.00
Thanks to Scott, N0AR, I've found a great-looking
plug for that unsightly 3/4 hole on the lower left of
my K2's front panel. It's manufactured by Heyco, and
it's #2683. It's molded nylon, with a matte surface,
and sits flat, as well as very securely. They're
available from Cable Components, Inc.,
At 10:25 AM 4/13/2005 -0700, you wrote:
Ron, WB1HGA asked:
Pardon my ignorance fellas, but what is a mojo?
---
That question comes up often, Ron.
A mojo is an object containing magic. In native
American lore, it's often
a small leather bag worn on a leather thong
Lately, there have been a bunch of times when I
power my KX1 with a 12V supply, activate the tuner to
get a match, and the result is 4-5W and a good match.
Then, while operating, or just while it's sitting, not
being operated, I'll sometimes hear a few relays
chatter for a split second, and the
...do you remember hearing the first signals with
your K2?
I do!
For me, this memorable event was early yesterday
afternoon. What a treat! Everything's just going
swell with #4442...heading for that first QSO...
LL/K3ESE
K1 #379, KX1 #11, K2 #4442
Elecraft KBT1 internal battery option $40
Elecraft KSB2 SSB option $85
Elecraft KIO2 RS-232 Interface $85
all unbuilt, and all prices includes conus shipping.
Thanks!
LL/K3ESE
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Yip, yip, yippee! Had the first couple of QSOs last
night, then went to bed. I'll install the speaker,
etc., later, then start on the options.
There were zero glitsches other than the supplied
MPS5179s needing to be replaced. Minus the down-time
spent waiting for their replacements,
Last night, I did the C22 correction using WWV, and
after a couple of tries, it worked like a charm, and
it's very close, if not exact - I'm happy. (yes, I
re-ran CAL PLL, etc., after) Also perfected the
listening to the lowest sounding background noise
method for tweaking the BFOs for my filter
--- W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
LLoyd,
The basic K2 power metering is an RF Probe type and
is very dependent on the
load - if it is anything other than 50 ohms pure
resistance, the K2 power
indication may be in error. Even when driving a 50
ohm non-reactive dummy
load,
In this piece, found under construction notes on
the E site, it is emphatic about running CAL PLL on
*ALL* bands...but it's only possible to do it on 40M,
so...this ought to be changed, eh?
LL/K2.4442
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When I'm using my scan function on 40M, it just
scans past stations that are S8-9, and keeps going.
I've tried different filter settings, etc. What have I
missed?
LL/K3ESE
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--- Sverre Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The latest firmware has two scan modes. The old one
which scans silently and
stops on each strong station, and the latest one
which scans with the
squelch open and does not stop on anything.
I believe the last mode is entered by pressing the
scan
On 30-80m, with the power set to 5W, I'm getting
6-7W, even with the KAT2 installed. These are the
kinds of readings I saw prior to installing the tuner,
and I was hoping the ATU would normalize that.
The power out on the higher bands ranges from 5 -
5.5 W or so.
On a borrowed K2, for
Gary pointed me to:
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Power_Control_Mod.html
and also said, ...there is an optimum value of R98
for any specific K2 that will allow the best power
control resolution. Basically, it allows the 8 bit DAC
(U8 on the control board) to use more of its maximum
Is there a list someone's keeping, of Elecraft
seriel numbers? Thanks.
LL...11...379...4442...hike
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While operating my K2, using the ATU with a balun
for my 300 ohm twinlead-fed loop, sometimes I've
suddenly noticed that my power out, while
transmitting, is showing only two bars, instead of the
five or six I should be seeing. If I hit tune, I
sometimes get nothing - no bars, and the display
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Did you have this problem before you made the R98
change?
Nope.
If not, perhaps something you did made this happen.
...but what? Any thoughts on what to check?
LL
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From my experience: begin with a K1. You'll be
thrilled to have such a great rig, and to have had to
joy and success of building it.
Then, go for the KX1...because it also has those SWL
bands, because it's so ultra-portable - because it's
just so darn cool!
Finally...find some way to
Aarggh. #4442 has performed flawlessly, and went
together without a hitch - but last night, when I
tried to transmit, there was nothing. When I try to
tune, on any band, at any power level, into one of my
two fine antennas or a dummy load, I get a Lo P
indication. Whhh. What should I check?
My K2 being my first rig with a switchable preamp,
I find myself wondering which RST I should give, in a
situation where I think the other op is interested in
the real or actual RST, whatever that might mean.
Is it the strength with or without the pre-amp
switched in? Which would YOU prefer
I have a case...just a case...for a KX1. The word
EDIT is partially rubbed off on the top, but
otherwise it's perfect. The bottom is brand-new. If
anyone comes up with a good use for such a thing, I'll
send it off.
LL/K3ESE
__
Discover
I use Silky wire from the Wireman. Here's the
description:
'Invisible' Toughcoat 'Silky' 26 AWG, 19 strand 40%
copper-clad steel (OD 0.020) with the same jacket as
531 (Nominal OD, 0.050 including 0.015 jacket, but
super small for that 'low profile' antenna or pocket
'weekender' long wire.
Elecraftians.
If you were going to build another K2 (and I know
there are many of you who have built quite a few) what
things would you do differently from the first build?
Lee Buller - K0WA
nothing atall!
LL/K3ESE
posted for Eric:
Original Message
Subject:KX-1 antenna question
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 09:30:42 -0400
From: Eric Ward [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
References:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
So I have settled on a 26-28' wire
I just got an older KX1, nr. 1xx, and noticed it
doesn't have an R32. The board is Rev. B, and the
manual is Rev. A (!)
Question: can someone direct me to a source that
could highlight any changes since the Rev. A manual?
Thanks!
LL/K3ESE
Dan, KB6NU, just brought the Begali contacts thread from this past
March to my attention, and I hope it's not too late to weigh in:
I've had all of the Begali keys, and helped a bunch of others with
theirs. When we got them, the gap had to be changed often, close one
day, not so close the next.
There were a few inquiries about what I did to improve the Begali
contacts, so I thought I'd answer here, for any that are interested:
I've used several different abrasive paper grit grades
...400-600-800-1000, use about three of these. Take off the contact
post, being very, very, very careful
I've used all the Begali paddles, Benchers and some others, and I've
settled on the Begali Simplex as my all-time favorite. Pricewise, it's
at the low end of the high-end, I suppose, delivered for $154, I
think. The workmanship is lovely, but the feel, ease of adjustment and
stability is what I
Mike N2HTT wrote:
The K1 is my all-time favorite radio, ever.
I felt the same way!
Then I buiult my K2.
LL/K3ESE
ps: re: K1 v. KX1 - you need both.
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It's not Grosse or Goose, it's Gosse, and it looks to be VE7ECK,
who, apparently, inadvertently left his out-of-office reply on. So,
no, the sky is not falling, or worse...the offender is not (gasp!) a
European.
Sheesh!
LL/K3ESE
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On 8/28/06, Lloyd Lachow [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's not Grosse or Goose, it's Gosse, and it looks to be VE7ECK,
who, apparently, inadvertently left his out-of-office reply on.
sorry, I meant that he was apparently away and we're getting an
automated response. Seems obvious, but...
LL
Gosh...I used to be motivated to build new radios. They were each
wonderful and unique in different ways, and the building was tons of
fun.
But, then came K2 #4442. Now my unbuilt kits are tending to stay that
way, and all I ever do is operate - working DX, contests, chatting,
etc. - with zero
On 12/6/06, Mark Saunders, KJ7BS [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...aimlessly mumbling big MOJO, MOJO good'.
yes, yes! you've put your finger right on it! Wallowing in mojo, like.
LL/K3ESE
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You
Of all my radios, the only one capable of real QRO is the K2 - it
goes up to 15W.
So I was trying to work A22/JA4ATV on 7015 with five watts,
patiently, and - nothing. I knew it could be done; I'd done it
before.
Then it sounded as though he was going QRT. Before I could really
think
I play traditional contradance music on the fiddle...jigs, reels,
hornpipes, waltzes, strathspeys, schottisches, polkas, hambopolskas,
and the like...
LL/K3ESE
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Yesterday, to ring in the new year, I lifted something wrong,
resulting in immobilizing myself with back pain.
Today, faced with the dreary prospect of lying abed, I had my son
string my 24' wire in my bedroom, from the curtain rod to the closet
door, and put the 33' ground wire around the room,
On 3/12/06, n0tu/Steve [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
While out in the woods yesterday doing the Polar Bear event
Seems the KXPD1 rubber paddle covers get more ridged causing the
spring steel to push against the silver-wire contacts.
I did the mod where you push a needle under the silver contact
Another thing I noticed is that I used to get 3.5W out on 30m and 3W
on 40 and 2.5 on 20 and now I get 2.5W out on 30 and 1.82W on the
other bands, measured with the DL1.
Either my LPF wasn't up to snuff in the past, or I have some other
problem. Leigh/WA5ZNU
Keep us posted on your findings...I
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