Thank you, Don. I just finished the replacement. I absolutely dread
desoldering, but it gave me an opportunity to use the $25 desoldering iron with
an in-line solder-sucker I had in reserve. I removed the solder from the pins,
flush-cut the pins on the solder-side, and solder-sucked a coupke
Mark,
The only way I know of to do it reliably is to replace the inductor.
I suspect you stripped the threads on the inside of the inductor core
and not the slug. So just bite the bullet and replace the inductor.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/17/2018 11:41 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
While performing
While performing the IF alignment on my K2 s/n 7809, I must have backed the
slug on L34 too far up against the can. Now the slug doesn't move when I
turn it one way or the other (at some point I was able to advance it
downward to the 1/2 way point). Is there any way to re-index the slug onto
its
The K2 just passed all the second powered up tests (woohoo)
One quick question though. I was not able to peak up L34 for max signal/min
noise. The core hit the top of the can, I could have used another couple of
turns. So maybe this is not peaked to optimum?
I peaked L1 and L2 and heard a
Jack,
The peak on L34 is difficult to discern because it is quite broad. For
now, I suggest setting the slug 1 turn in from the top of the can.
After you have your K2 completed and the KSB2 board (if any) installed,
I suggest you do a full dial calibration and filter setup using
The peak on L34 is difficult to discern because it is quite broad. For
now, I suggest setting the slug 1 turn in from the top of the can.
1 turn from the top would be off peak. It needs to be right on the top
(and possibly further). I am assuming that something else in the circuit is
not the
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