Gene is right. The input surge from transformers and capacitors can be quite
major. To get around that I build a couple of circuits to slow down the input
surge and to also clamp over voltage from decelerating DC servos plus drain the
caps of the 105VDC quickly so that it was safe to work on.
How about once the rest of the mill is fixed, drill and tap some holes in edges
of the table to install a pair of plates to hold the pieces together. Then use
the router to mill a recess bridging the crack, and an exact fitting splice
plate, with matching holes for rows of socket head cap
How picky are they in Washington about DIY HVAC? I looked up the relevant code
for Idaho and for doing an install on your own residence you don't need a
"certificate of competency" but may need to have the install pass a mechanical
inspection. (But many HVAC shop techs will insist that ALL such
On 7/28/21 7:26 PM, Ralph Stirling wrote:
I just got my inspection report by email. The inspector
couldn't even remember that it was a mill, and called it
a "lathe". He references RCW 19.28 and WAC 296-46B-903.
I think my best option is to use this as an excuse to buy
a phase converter. It
On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 19:25, Milosz K. wrote:
> Lock-N-Stitch pins are also another option. Advantage is it's a cold
> process, but it's rather slow.
I forgot to say, this does seem like an avenue worth exploring.
Especially as the part is already conveniently mounted under a router
spindle.
The table can't be made worse. It needs replaced anyway, but if you can find a
person who can weld it without warping the alignment of the guides, it would
save a bunch of money. Some cast aluminum alloys just don't take well to being
welded. They either resist having the weld metal stick, melt
I just got my inspection report by email. The inspector
couldn't even remember that it was a mill, and called it
a "lathe". He references RCW 19.28 and WAC 296-46B-903.
I think my best option is to use this as an excuse to buy
a phase converter. It will be UL approved, and I'll connect
it to
I would go with unhooking the mill and hook up a table saw with UL listing.
Years ago, the surefire way to fail was to clean up the copper scrap before the
inspection (the scrap would disappear) and you got your green tag.I never knew
what happened to the scrap.
Scott
On Wednesday, July
On Wednesday 28 July 2021 15:25:01 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Do you really need to worry about inrush tripping the breaker?
> 1) If the DC supply is the old linear type, it will have a very large
> filter capacitor and supply peak loads without a large AC draw. The
> trick is to turn on the
Replace mill with UL approved saw or similar for $100 off CL (if you
don't already have one). Call for inspection.
On 7/28/21 2:14 PM, Ralph Stirling wrote:
I'm in a bind now. I just had the electrical wiring I put
into my garage shop inspected. The WA state inspector
liked my wiring fine,
He is referencing state statue WAC 296-46B-903. 2005 NEC phased in a listed
requirement in Article 110. I'm not sure how it has evolved but there might
be exceptions now, though, state requirements usually prevail over NEC in
my experience. Could be a dead end but worth a look.
I faced this
Hi,
Why not contact UL themselves to ask more informations ?
They may be helpful if you join a desctription of you machine
on how this would be applicable and give hints on how to
handle the certification.
What I don't get is which parts need be certified, like small
motors and so on, is the
After thinking about it more this seems ridiculous. You are not running a
machining business, you are building your own machines for personal use.
Why can't you just say you are a machine developer just like any other
business that develops products. Things developed in the labs are not UL
listed
My electrical inspector (in WI) never looked at my LinuxCNC machines
closely but they look like Bridgeports. He was only concerned with the
building wiring. I would move the machine to a storage unit, and replace it
with a bench and hand tools, then call the inspector and say you "got rid"
of the
https://www.intertek.com/field-labeling/
If moving the mill out for re-inspection or other plans fail.
On 7/28/21 2:14 PM, Ralph Stirling wrote:
I'm in a bind now. I just had the electrical wiring I put
into my garage shop inspected. The WA state inspector
liked my wiring fine, but balked at
Although electrical inspectors tend to be a power unto themselves they
still have to follow the rules. i.e. WAC's and local and national
electrical codes. Be as gentle as possible they tend to be prickly.
Being WW they no doubt see a bunch of EU stuff for wineries. Clearly the
machine didn't
In Los Angeles City, County, and in Burbank (where I work), it has been
the rule that everything used in a facility must carry the UL tag or a
testing certificate from an accredited testing facility.
It has been this way for a few decades now!
that is when lots of companies started to use UL
IMO, your building inspector is stepping way outside of his authority.
His job is "building" inspection. You got a permit for your "building"
project. Not for some machine sitting in your building.
Unless your mill is part of the "building", he is way outside of his
authority.
If your
I'd pull the plate off the machine and weld it. Then mill it flat. It's
a router, not a mill.
The problem might be finding a local welder and mill that can handle a
piece that size. Handling costs can get pricey if you don't have your
own truck.
On 7/28/21 12:37 PM, andy pugh wrote:
On
Is the mill hard-wired or powered with a plug into a wall outlet? If the
mill plugs in then remove the power cord and place a plastic tarp over the
mill and have it re-inspected. The inspector is not able to comment on
what you might use the outlet for in the future.
If he asks, tell him you
On 7/28/21 2:14 PM, Ralph Stirling wrote:
I'm in a bind now. I just had the electrical wiring I put
into my garage shop inspected. The WA state inspector
liked my wiring fine, but balked at the non-UL-listed
CNC mill (the main point to my whole garage shop project).
He insists it get stamped
Do you really need to worry about inrush tripping the breaker?
1) If the DC supply is the old linear type, it will have a very large
filter capacitor and supply peak loads without a large AC draw. The trick
is to turn on the supply and then the motor a second later.
2) Most breakers have a time
I'm in a bind now. I just had the electrical wiring I put
into my garage shop inspected. The WA state inspector
liked my wiring fine, but balked at the non-UL-listed
CNC mill (the main point to my whole garage shop project).
He insists it get stamped by one of the *seven* official
"approved
The motor will warm up due to the field supply. The motor name plate shows the
field current change from cold to warm. You might have a better idea on current
looking at the AC supply rather than A1 and A2. All current should be DC to the
motor.
On Wednesday, July 28, 2021, 11:59:31 AM
On Wednesday 28 July 2021 13:57:20 Todd Zuercher wrote:
> Well, we could lose the 20ft long Bosch Rexroth linear rails and
> bearings. (Which I'm guessing aren't particularly cheap either.)
>
Agreed. So I think I would dismount the table from the bearings and see
if it could be heli-arc'd, and
On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 19:25, Milosz K. wrote:
>
> Brazing with Aluminum Bronze would be the preferable alternative to welding.
That's good on cast iron. I don't know that it works on aluminium?
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial
On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 19:20, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Since that motor is shown with a max field current of 3 amps,
I think that was the drive current. Motor current seems to be rather
lower, 0.64A
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial
Brazing with Aluminum Bronze would be the preferable alternative to welding.
Lock-N-Stitch pins are also another option. Advantage is it's a cold
process, but it's rather slow.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 1:28 PM Todd Zuercher <
>
> Is there any hope of repairing the table? Are we going to have to
On 2021-07-28 18:25, Todd Zuercher wrote:
Is there any hope of repairing the table? Are we going to have to
replace the whole table? Could the crack be welded, or is that a bad
idea? My main fear is that warpage issues will cause the linear
guides to bind. (The table surface can always be
On Wednesday 28 July 2021 12:57:30 Earl Weaver wrote:
> **I took some voltage readings on the field windings F1 and F2.
> This is on the edge of my experience with electrical testing,
> so you may need to coach me with getting the readings that you need.
>
> Motor stopped:
> From Ground to F1 =
Todd, from my experience of the mechanical shop at my company (some time
ago), where a lot of alu welding was done, a cast alu workpiece must be
heated to at least 200 to 300 degree Celsius before attempting to weld
it with a tungsten arc burner. At such a large piece I guess 4-6 men
with
Well, we could lose the 20ft long Bosch Rexroth linear rails and bearings.
(Which I'm guessing aren't particularly cheap either.)
Todd Zuercher
P. Graham Dunn Inc.
630 Henry Street
Dalton, Ohio 44618
Phone: (330)828-2105ext. 2031
-Original Message-
From: andy pugh
Sent: Wednesday,
On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 18:28, Todd Zuercher wrote:
> Is there any hope of repairing the table? Are we going to have to replace
> the whole table? Could the crack be welded, or is that a bad idea?
It's probably a bad idea, but I would think that it is worth at least
a try. You don't have a
On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 18:00, Earl Weaver wrote:
> I have noticed if the main power disconnect switch is let on the machine
> for a length of time, the motor will feel hot to the touch.
> Is this normal?
Yes, if the field windings are permanently powered on.
The motor rating plate says that the
We had a bit of a disaster last night. Because of poorly trained, inattentive
machine operators on 3rd shift, we had a pretty bad fire on one of our CNC
routers. The improperly set the depth, then started the machine, turned and
walked away, then evacuated the building when the fire alarm
**I took some voltage readings on the field windings F1 and F2.
This is on the edge of my experience with electrical testing,
so you may need to coach me with getting the readings that you need.
Motor stopped:
From Ground to F1 = +107.9 - Ground to F2 = -107.8
Leads on F1 and F2 = 215.0
Motor
The other option of course is just to toss out the motor and switch to say the
130SM-M1525MAL from Bergerda rated at 3.8kW (divided by 750W/HP) is 5HP at 2500
RPM.
Runs off 220VAC 13.5A circuit.
With the 2500 line encoder can do step/dir as slow as you want although at
really slow RPM the
On Wednesday 28 July 2021 05:33:46 andy pugh wrote:
> On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 00:46, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > > Yes, this is an approx. 1984 machine.
> >
> > That new? I would have guessed 1934, the year I was born. That means
> > of making a variable speed motor is ancient tech because its not
>
On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 00:46, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Yes, this is an approx. 1984 machine.
>
> That new? I would have guessed 1934, the year I was born. That means of
> making a variable speed motor is ancient tech because its not very
> efficient.
I think you are maybe thinking of the Ward
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