EV Digest 6912
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Clutch
by "Andrew Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Engine parts to keep?
by Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Big tax credits!! Re: EV conversion legislation: tax breaks
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Adaptor?
by "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Engine parts to keep?
by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Clutch
by "joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Batteries for the Newbie!
by Joseph Tahbaz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: EVision sneak preview
by "John O'Connor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Big tax credits!! Re: EV conversion legislation: tax breaks
by "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Big tax credits!! Re: EV conversion legislation: tax breaks
by Michael Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: EVision sneak preview
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Clutch, Keepin' it.
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: EVision sneak preview
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Clutch
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) woops sorry
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) AC Motor?
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17)
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Engine parts to keep?
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) "Current" generation of Thundersky
by "David Sharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) AC Motor?
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: EVision sneak preview
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: PML 640BHP+ Electric Mini Video
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: AC Motor?
by "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Motor backemf solved?
by Geopilot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) CutOff
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
That's good to hear. Evidently the lower rotational mass
(compared to an ICE) of your motor means that the synchros can easily
spin it up so that these shifts can be made. If I'm reading you
correctly you are not using the throttle on these downshifts.
I must admit (if I haven't already) that I've never driven an EV,
with clutch or without. My experience with clutchless shifting comes
exclusively from ICE cars. From what you are saying I was making it
much more complex than need be.
Of course, my original suggestion of electronic rpm matching
still stands, as one would then be able to shift at any old time, as
quickly as one liked, without learning any technique or "knack." Also
I wonder how long the synchros will last in your setup. IIRC you said
you've been driving the truck for some time, and you are evidently
gentle on the tranny, but I wonder how long a more ham-handed person
could drive it that way before failure.
No doubt the transmission would outlast the battery pack in any case.
On 6/18/07, Freddie Hartsell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I shift the same way when I down shift. Let's say that I am going to make a
left turn just ahead. I let off of the pedal and let the truck slow down on
it own as much as possible. I use the brakes very little because I have
learned to anticipate how much I need to let the truck slow down before I
make the turn. Just before I make the turn I take the shifter out of gear
and then while I am making the turn I down shift into either 2nd or 3rd
depending on the road and how fast I make the turn. Again I do not force
the gear change I allow the transmission to shift when it is ready. As I
have told my wife, you just have to learn how to do this. I am teaching her
how to drive the truck so that she can drive it to work. I seldom use the
clutch any more.
Freddie.
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 5:50 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Clutch
This is in fact the technique I meant when I said
"speed-shifting". I know it's probably incorrect but that's what I
have been accustomed to call this method of clutchless shifting. I'm
not surprised that you have had success with this method, upshifting
under these conditions is relatively easy. It's down-shifting that
represents a problem (if you have no clutch) because ideally the motor
should be revved to match rpms with the new (lower) gear, which I
suspect is tough to do without overspeeding the motor while it's
unloaded. Of course this applies mainly to DC motors AFAIK.
On 6/18/07, Freddie Hartsell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I handle shifting a little different in my Dakota EV.
>
> I let off of the accelerator then move the shifter out of the gear that it
> was in. I then gently move it to the gear that I need it to be in without
> forcing it to go in. If I gently nudge the gear lever into the next gear
as
> the motor slows down, the transmission will slip into the right gear by
> itself. I do not force anything, I just wait until the motor and the
> transmission is close enough to the correct rpm's to allow the shifter to
> slip into the next gear. I know that this is not speed shifting but then
I
> am not racing up the street either. If I need to shift faster than this
> then I use the clutch. I use this method when I am not in a hurry which
is
> most of the time. There is no grinding of gears if I wait until the
> transmission is at the proper rpm's. It actually seems to drive smoother
> when I use this method instead of using the clutch. But it is nice for me
> to have both options.
>
> Freddie.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 4:24 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Clutch
>
> Also you are likely to wear out the syncros more quickly.
> However, don't be tempted to "speed-shift" by using the throttle to
> match rpm between gears unless you know you can do it without
> over-revving the motor (cause it will go blooie.) Best IMO would be
> some species of circuitry in your motor controller to sense and keep
> track of gate states (i.e. out of 1st, into 2nd, etc) and
> automagically match rpm to speed in the new gear while between gates.
> I have not the slightest idea how to do this however, nor have I heard
> from anyone else about it.
>
> On 6/18/07, Michael Wendell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > So heres the deal..If I bolt my Motor up to the shaft
> > > coming out of the Transmission.
> > ...
> > > I will no longer have a clutch.
> > > And to shift gears.. What ??
> > > I turn the motor speed down and just throw the
> > > stick shift into the next gear?
> > >
> > > Is that right
> >
> > pretty much exactly.
> >
> > 1. lift your foot off of the accelerator pedal, motor simply turns with
> the
> > rotation of the car.
> >
> > 2. push stick shift out of gear, motor spins down to zero.
> >
> > 3. select new gear with stick shift, syncros in transmission spin up the
> > motor to the new speed of the transmission input shaft. these syncros
are
> > normally used to spin up the weight of the transmission's moving parts
and
> > the clucth, so you're putting alittle more stress on them since they're
> now
> > spinning up the motor.
> >
> > 4. foot back on the accelerator. go zoom.
> >
> > as i hear though, it's definitely slower than shifting with a clutch.
> >
> > m.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
lol
So I need the flywheel? is this technically part of the engine or the
tranny?
Anything else that might be attached to the engine that I will need?
Tehben
On Jun 18, 2007, at 3:10 PM, MIKE WILLMON wrote:
Make sure you keep and mark the Start/Run ignition wires as you may
want the to control the powering up of your controller.
I kept the 12V starting solenoid just in case I needed to switch in
some heavy 12V loads.
Keep the starter motor to put in your electric scooter project.
The radiator may be useful for a condenser for a bio-diesel
manufacturing plant.
If the fan is heavy duty you can use it for a lift fan for an
electric hovercraft.
As far as the engine parts go, you could try to sell it whole or
part it out. I just wanted to get mine out of the garage so Iput
it up on Craigslist for free.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, June 18, 2007 11:03 am
Subject: Engine parts to keep?
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Hey all,
I am afraid I am not very knowledgeable about engines :) and I am
going to sell my functioning ICE but am not sure what stuff is
important to keep?
I will be retaining the clutch and using a water heater to replace
the heat form the engine for my conversion.
Thanks,
Tehben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Good going Jerry! Thanks for info
But this following statement is a concern.
"Only kits that are of a standard configuration, mass-produced, and
certified by NHTSA would qualify for a Freedom Conversion Credit."
Just "Who" in the NHTSA is going to determine what a "standard
configuration" is? Do they even know anything about EVs for crying
out loud? BTW, what is a standard configuration? AC, DC? Is it
something the mere mortal will be able to obtain?
So you mean to tell me I won't be able to buy a Zilla from EV Parts,
a motor from Ken Koch, a DC/DC converter from Bob Batson and a PFC
charger from Rich. Instead it will need to be from a "certified" kit
maker that the NHTSA will select themselves. Hopefully, they mean
"certified EV parts suppliers".
This is the way alot of us are doing conversions - piece by piece,
although my first EV was a kit from KTA. Now granted Electro
Automotive is selling kits and I hope they would qualify.
Some folks from the EAA or some "EV Experts" need to be involved in
this process.
It sounds good, but it also sounds like many of us will end up being
cut out of the loop.
There are alot of questions that need to be answered before this goes
through.
I just know from attempting to qualify for other things that when it
comes to the fine print, it always end up being too good to be true.
Chip
On Jun 18, 2007, at 7:30 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok>> here I am engine out and ready to bolt on the electric motor..
The gears on the trainee and the motor appear that they will line up and and
bolt together with my adaptor plate ..
But where the heck is this suppose to attract to??
You cant possible attach it to the transmission can you?
http://www.photolava.com/view/33dm.html
http://www.photolava.com/view/33e2.html
Thanks Mitchell
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm not sure technically which it is part of, but I do know that if you want to
use the clutch the flywheel is needed ;-)
If you are planning to implement "clutchless shifting" then you won't need the
flywheel, pressure plate or clutch disc. If you want to be able to retain the
clutch operation you need those items.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, June 18, 2007 3:43 pm
Subject: Re: Engine parts to keep?
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> lol
> So I need the flywheel? is this technically part of the engine or
> the
> tranny?
> Anything else that might be attached to the engine that I will need?
>
> Tehben
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yep, you got it! Just take your foot off the throttle, and stir the gear
box! :)
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 12:20 PM
Subject: Clutch
Well I just pulled the engine out of my Geo.
And I am one of these guys that need to see things to have them make since
some of the time..
So heres the deal..If I bolt my Motor up to the shaft coming out of the
Transmission..Which is what I am suppose to do..
I will no longer have a clutch..
And to shift gears.. What ??
I turn the motor speed down and just throw the stick shift into the next
gear?
Is that right
It sounds amazing to me. If that is it.
Thanks Mitchell
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
Someone else mentioned it was stupid question time on another thread
so I'm going to ask one here as well.
Will this device be a competitor to the Link10/Emeter, or an add on
if you have the xantrex device?
On Jun 18, 2007, at 9:26 AM, John Wayland wrote:
I've held a prototype model in my hands and will say, that this is
going to be one of those 'must have' devices for anyone's EVs!
Victor has put a lot of thought into this new product...he's a very
thorough guy.
<snip>
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Chip and All,
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Big tax credits!! Re: EV conversion
legislation: tax breaks
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 20:05:40 -0400
>Good going Jerry! Thanks for info
>
>But this following statement is a concern.
>
>"Only kits that are of a standard configuration,
>mass-produced, and certified by NHTSA would qualify for a
>Freedom Conversion Credit."
Yes it's a big concern as most EV's now are made
thru conversions!!
But the battery credits could be used anyway
probably and are very generous and up to $7500 if you are
buying pricy batteries.
>
>Just "Who" in the NHTSA is going to determine what a
>"standard configuration" is? Do they even know anything
>about EVs for crying out loud? BTW, what is a standard
>configuration? AC, DC? Is it something the mere mortal
>will be able to obtain?
This part is written for plug-in hybrids and would
probably include those already doing them.
Now's the time while it's being debated to get
conversion part costs included in EV's. We have a good point
in the fact most EV's have been made by us, not
manufacturers so in reality, we have more and been more
successful than auto companies in getting EV's on the road
and keeping them going!!
Who's been representing us on the hill? Who
should we e mail or better, call to make a difference? I'm
willing to do several calls to committee members. Bill info
URL?
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
>
>So you mean to tell me I won't be able to buy a Zilla from
>EV Parts, a motor from Ken Koch, a DC/DC converter from
>Bob Batson and a PFC charger from Rich. Instead it will
>need to be from a "certified" kit maker that the NHTSA
>will select themselves. Hopefully, they mean "certified
>EV parts suppliers".
>
>This is the way alot of us are doing conversions - piece by
>piece, although my first EV was a kit from KTA. Now
>granted Electro Automotive is selling kits and I hope
>they would qualify.
>
>Some folks from the EAA or some "EV Experts" need to be
>involved in this process.
>
>It sounds good, but it also sounds like many of us will end
>up being cut out of the loop.
>
>There are alot of questions that need to be answered before
>this goes through.
>
>I just know from attempting to qualify for other things
>that when it comes to the fine print, it always end up
>being too good to be true.
>
>Chip
>
>
>On Jun 18, 2007, at 7:30 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion
>List wrote:
>
>>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<< Who's been representing us on the hill? Who
should we e mail or better, call to make a difference?
I'm
willing to do several calls to committee members. Bill
info
URL? >>>
Looks to me like this is where the the EAA
organization should step in and start contacting the
legislators that are proposing this bill.
--- jerryd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi Chip and All,
>
> ----- Original Message Follows -----
> From: Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Big tax credits!! Re: EV conversion
> legislation: tax breaks
> Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 20:05:40 -0400
>
> >Good going Jerry! Thanks for info
> >
> >But this following statement is a concern.
> >
> >"Only kits that are of a standard configuration,
> >mass-produced, and certified by NHTSA would
> qualify for a
> >Freedom Conversion Credit."
>
> Yes it's a big concern as most EV's now are
> made
> thru conversions!!
> But the battery credits could be used anyway
> probably and are very generous and up to $7500 if
> you are
> buying pricy batteries.
>
>
> >
> >Just "Who" in the NHTSA is going to determine what
> a
> >"standard configuration" is? Do they even know
> anything
> >about EVs for crying out loud? BTW, what is a
> standard
> >configuration? AC, DC? Is it something the mere
> mortal
> >will be able to obtain?
>
> This part is written for plug-in hybrids
> and would
> probably include those already doing them.
> Now's the time while it's being debated to
> get
> conversion part costs included in EV's. We have a
> good point
> in the fact most EV's have been made by us, not
> manufacturers so in reality, we have more and been
> more
> successful than auto companies in getting EV's on
> the road
> and keeping them going!!
> Who's been representing us on the hill?
> Who
> should we e mail or better, call to make a
> difference? I'm
> willing to do several calls to committee members.
> Bill info
> URL?
> Thanks,
> Jerry Dycus
>
> >
> >So you mean to tell me I won't be able to buy a
> Zilla from
> >EV Parts, a motor from Ken Koch, a DC/DC
> converter from
> >Bob Batson and a PFC charger from Rich. Instead
> it will
> >need to be from a "certified" kit maker that the
> NHTSA
> >will select themselves. Hopefully, they mean
> "certified
> >EV parts suppliers".
> >
> >This is the way alot of us are doing conversions -
> piece by
> >piece, although my first EV was a kit from KTA.
> Now
> >granted Electro Automotive is selling kits and I
> hope
> >they would qualify.
> >
> >Some folks from the EAA or some "EV Experts" need
> to be
> >involved in this process.
> >
> >It sounds good, but it also sounds like many of us
> will end
> >up being cut out of the loop.
> >
> >There are alot of questions that need to be
> answered before
> >this goes through.
> >
> >I just know from attempting to qualify for other
> things
> >that when it comes to the fine print, it always
> end up
> >being too good to be true.
> >
> >Chip
> >
> >
> >On Jun 18, 2007, at 7:30 PM, Electric Vehicle
> Discussion
> >List wrote:
> >
> >>
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It is competitor - in the sense that no need to have Xantrex hardware.
EVision is a self-contained stand alone system.
It is not a competitor in the sense that e-meter is not really an
EV gadget and have been adapted to work in an EV for the lack of
anything else (apart from BRUSA Ah counter) - it is meant to be a marine
low voltage instrument. Thus in EV it requires prescaler, isolated power
and as far as I heard strict sequence of connecting it; else according
to periodic woes on the list, it blows up, sometimes with bad luck
taking with it computers if attached to its serial port.
EVision is in its class, designed for EV from ground up and BTW does
not require any external power supplies to run, not even 12V house
battery. It runs off of the propulsion pack it measures, consuming
about 2mA in my 345V pack case. Yes, serial port is isolated.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
John O'Connor wrote:
Someone else mentioned it was stupid question time on another thread so
I'm going to ask one here as well.
Will this device be a competitor to the Link10/Emeter, or an add on if
you have the xantrex device?
On Jun 18, 2007, at 9:26 AM, John Wayland wrote:
I've held a prototype model in my hands and will say, that this is
going to be one of those 'must have' devices for anyone's EVs!
Victor has put a lot of thought into this new product...he's a very
thorough guy.
<snip>
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 4:02 PM
Subject: RE: Clutch
So heres the deal..If I bolt my Motor up to the shaft
coming out of the Transmission.
...
I will no longer have a clutch.
And to shift gears.. What ??
I turn the motor speed down and just throw the
stick shift into the next gear?
Is that right
pretty much exactly.
1. lift your foot off of the accelerator pedal, motor simply turns with
the
rotation of the car.
2. push stick shift out of gear, motor spins down to zero.
3. select new gear with stick shift, syncros in transmission spin up the
motor to the new speed of the transmission input shaft. these syncros are
normally used to spin up the weight of the transmission's moving parts and
the clucth, so you're putting alittle more stress on them since they're
now
spinning up the motor.
4. foot back on the accelerator. go zoom.
as i hear though, it's definitely slower than shifting with a clutch.
m.
Hi EVerybody;
Yup, the above. Best argument for hanging on to the clutch! It's a pain
in the ass to shift easily. Just keep the clutch in your motor linkup. You
will thank yourself EVery time you just "Click" from gear to gear, like ya
used to do in the car's ICE daze. But you wont HAVe to shift as often,
though. Take off in second, stay there 'round town, do 3rd or forth for
freeway running. Most trannies WON'T just shift into the gear ya want when
standing, EVery time, you have to slip the clutch a bit to get the damn car
into gear. If this happens with a clutchless you have to spin the motor and
wait for it to wind down and it gronks when you put it in gear. One thing
you MUST be EVer mindful going clutchless is no more quick shifts!
Youre miliage will vary<g>!
Bob
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/852 - Release Date: 6/17/2007
8:23 AM
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Victor
Seems like about 6 or 7 months ago that I saw your prototype instrument at
an OEVA meeting.
Can you give an idea when they may be available for purchase?
Thanks
Roy
_________________________________________________________________
Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Even with a clutch and an ultralight flywheel, there is no compression
the rpms don't fall very fast.
I think an alternator on a belt with a switch for the field tied to the
old clutch pedal or a vacuum pump on an AC clutch would help bring the
rpms down to where they match faster.
--- End Message ---
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Tehben Dean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: Engine parts to keep?
lol
So I need the flywheel? is this technically part of the engine or the
tranny?
Anything else that might be attached to the engine that I will need?
Tehben
Flywheel is, I guess ,part of the engine? But ya need it, anyhow WITH the
pressure plate, throwout bearing, don't throw it out!This will, of course
with the bell housing and tranny, is the stuff ya will need.Vacuum pump,
IF it is belt driven off the engine?
For starters
Bob>
On Jun 18, 2007, at 3:10 PM, MIKE WILLMON wrote:
Make sure you keep and mark the Start/Run ignition wires as you may want
the to control the powering up of your controller.
I kept the 12V starting solenoid just in case I needed to switch in some
heavy 12V loads.
Keep the starter motor to put in your electric scooter project.
The radiator may be useful for a condenser for a bio-diesel
manufacturing plant.
If the fan is heavy duty you can use it for a lift fan for an electric
hovercraft.
As far as the engine parts go, you could try to sell it whole or part
it out. I just wanted to get mine out of the garage so Iput it up on
Craigslist for free.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, June 18, 2007 11:03 am
Subject: Engine parts to keep?
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Hey all,
I am afraid I am not very knowledgeable about engines :) and I am
going to sell my functioning ICE but am not sure what stuff is
important to keep?
I will be retaining the clutch and using a water heater to replace
the heat form the engine for my conversion.
Thanks,
Tehben
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Hi All,
I am new to the discussion list and hope to build many electric vehicles,
Lord willing.
I recently purchased a 1999 E-bike.
And am hoping to build my 3 year old son a simple electric four wheeler.
I have AC motor off of a professional buffer for waxing cars and wondering
what kind of equipment I would need to convert the DC power to AC to power
it?
God bless
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Was it so long ago? Gee, this means I'm developing too slow :-)
If not upcoming conversion for a client, I'd say betas are
ready in 2 weeks. But I'm hesitant to charge money for something
unproven in the field. It works in my vehicle for couple of weeks
now, but not the production PCB form. I'm putting one of "real ones"
in ACRX as we speak, and later John and couple more people will get
their betas for a month to test and give me feed back.
Once all the suggestions are considered and gross bugs fixed
(if any found), first units can be ordered with some features still
disabled (like tire pressure monitoring). Those will be independent
add-on options.
This conversion project is something I have to do for income and
it was scheduled for a while now. It will take
priority over EVision for this month at least. So I'm striving to get
betas out before this job starts, so while I'm converting, units
are being tested. I'll let everyone know.
Victor
Roy LeMeur wrote:
Hi Victor
Seems like about 6 or 7 months ago that I saw your prototype
instrument at an OEVA meeting.
Can you give an idea when they may be available for purchase?
Thanks Roy
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Since I am quite ignorant of certain terminologies I thought I would first
look up the definition of Vaporware as you have accused some of using this
term which I should remind you I never have concerning this car. Vaporware
by definition is: "Computer Slang. a product, esp. software, that is
promoted or marketed while it is still in development and that may never be
produced." While I agree this car is not software, it may however contain
some. It definitely follows some of the other criteria. They did say on the
video that the car is not moving yet. They also said: "A company in Alton
has created an electric-powered Mini that can do 150mph and travel 900 miles
before it has to be recharged." Wow, it now goes 900 miles before a charge!
It is getting better all the time. By the time they test it I'm quite sure
it will be getting 3000 miles per charge. Maybe they can add some space
alien technology that is also super secret and get 100,000 miles per charge
and have enough left over energy to power a small city because it produces
more energy than it uses. How come it still only does 0 to 60 in 4 seconds
though is beyond me. As I said on the EV UK list, this is the slowest car in
the world with this much horsepower. Even the dog slow Porsche Carrera GT is
quicker with only 610 HP and in some of their press releases they claim over
700 HP for the mini. Still with only 618 HP the slow Porsche can squeeze out
a quicker yet slow 3.6 second 0 to 60 MPH. As they say in the video, it's
performance is on par with any super car in the world. Let's see it race
against a Saleen S7 that does 0 to 60 in 2.8 or even that old white Datsun
from the seventies. Now what was that definition of Vaporware?
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon Chambers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 4:11 PM
Subject: PML 640BHP+ Electric Mini Video
I know this car has been touted as vapourware many a times on this list
however this exciting mini-report came up on our local BBC news bulletin
tonight.
Doesn't go into that great a technical detail, but I assume a lot of it is
currently trade secrets.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/player/nol/newsid_6760000/newsid_6765200/6765299.stm?b
w=bb&mp=wm
Hopefully the link will work outside the UK, not sure if these are
restricted to UK viewers only.
For those who haven't read about it already, here's a brief news release
intro:
http://www.pmlflightlink.com/archive/news_mini.html
Will be great to see it running when they've finished the prototype in the
summer!
Si.
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What's the power requirement of the buffer motor? If it plugs into a
15A 120vac outlet, you should be able to run it with a 1750 watt
inverter -- about $300 at costco or a Checker Auto type place, I
think.
However, I'm not sure it's the best motor to use. If I recall, most
power tool motors are universal motors (meaning they are commutated,
even though they are AC -- for variable speed control, and can
actually run on AC or DC if it's the right voltage). Their efficiency
sucks though. Plus what you'd lose converting from 12vdc to AC (these
cheap inverters are only about 85 to 90% efficient, unlike the AC
drive systems for full sized EV's) I'd suggest getting a small 1/2
HP PM DC motor that you could run direction from 12 or 24vdc.
However, I did see an electric bike that used an inverter and a AC
handheld power drill to power it... so it's possible.
Z
On 6/18/07, Rob Hogenmiller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi All,
I am new to the discussion list and hope to build many electric vehicles,
Lord willing.
I recently purchased a 1999 E-bike.
And am hoping to build my 3 year old son a simple electric four wheeler.
I have AC motor off of a professional buffer for waxing cars and wondering
what kind of equipment I would need to convert the DC power to AC to power
it?
God bless
--
Zeke Yewdall
Chief Electrical Engineer
Sunflower Solar, A NewPoint Energy Company
Cell: 720.352.2508
Office: 303.459.0177
FAX documents to: 720.269.1240
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.cosunflower.com
CoSEIA Certified
Certified BP Solar Installer
National Association of Home Builders
Quotable Quote
"In the dark of the moon, in flying snow,
in the dead of winter, war spreading,
families dying, the world in danger,
I walk the rocky hillside
sowing clover."
Wendell Berry
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thanks.
i figured someone here could quickly tell if it was worth any time.
Danny Miller wrote:
No, it's quack science/fraud. Rehash of the same BS claim that's been
going on for over 100 yrs.
Please use the list for real questions and lay off the quackery.
Danny
GWMobile wrote:
Is this way to solve back emf anything worthwhile or new?
Text of Page follows:
The LaFonte Group - Home
http://lafontegroup.com/index.htm
LaFonte Group
The present Group projects are the Equilibrium Generator and the
Equilibrium Motor. For theory of operation see Current Projects .
Illustration Of Mechanical/Magnetic Equilibrium
Back EMF Problem Solved
Mark and I ran into a problem in a generator design we were testing a
few months ago. We could get very large voltages from the system, but
current was almost nonexistent. We measured the resistance of the
wiring and then divided it into the output voltage and the current
rate should be 2 amps if the coil was connected to a battery and the
rotor was locked, not turning. I asked, what was keeping the coil from
being able to produce this same amount of current when the coil was
being powered by the rotor magnet? Well, it was obvious to me it
seemed that the rotor magnetic field strength in the coil core varies
when it cycles through, but the coil powered by a battery has a
constant voltage and the magnetic field in the coil core is constant.
Well it does not take an Einstein to figure out that the changing
magnetic field of the rotor stator combination was causing the current
blockage. What was happening was that the current rise in the stator
coil was inducing a counter emf into the coil and blocking current
flow and to some degree voltage. To solve the problem the voltage in
the stator coil needed to stay constant for the coil to put out the
power equal to the power being generated as heat in the battery and
coil only test with rotor locked. Here is what I came up with.
1. First for this idea to work, you need to have a cog free
rotor/stator system. We have that in not one, but two different
designs. The core can be any ferromagnetic material, it does not have
to be only iron.
2. You then run from an external power source, constant voltage (not
pulsed) DC power through the stator coil. 3. Second, you have a load
that can induce a counter emf into the circuit (motor etc.).
3. Third, you then synchronize the voltage induced by the cog free
generator so that it's voltage is equal but opposite to the counter
voltage of the load in the circuit. This keeps the voltage, current
and magnetic field of the stator coil constant and eliminates any
counter emf being induced into the coil. The generator now has become
a voltage source only that requires no work input. The motor in the
circuit is running for free now.
4. The DC circuit that was at work at the very start of this sequence
is doing work for a secondary need in a conventional way or it's
energy can be stored and recycled.
5. This should open up a whole new field of overunity development.
Every coil/ferromagnetic core configuration has had this power "locked
up" in it and that power can now be put to work.
© Butch LaFonte 6-13-07
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone 1-205-352-4714 Central Time Zone, USA
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© 2007 Butch LaFonte. All rights reserved.
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Is there a secret formula for figuring cutoff for a baterry (when you should
stop drawing power from it).
I have a normal lead acid battery.
Group 31 with around 1000 CCA.
12Volts
I'm hoping to use this battery for my first home built EV project.
My sons four wheeler.
This is also a test message to see if my messages are going through.
God bless
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