from a $300 camera (Fuji GS645S)g. However, both of these are
worlds better than what I'm getting. Sigh.
Anyway, to get back to the original question: I don't think it's grain, I
think it's noise.
David J. Littleboy
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examples incredibly impressive. ICE is definately an
amazing trick.)
David J. Littleboy
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change to the
blue channel. Moving from consumer digital to scanned film, I've been quite
surprised at the radical color adjustments that are required. I suppose
that's unavoidable?
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it to on the scan when it's done.
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minutes for no-margin prints. From reading the fine print, this seems to be
what it takes. Sigh. Oh well, it'll keep my printing costs downg.
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the peripheral
into the card? Or is there more to it than that?
It's that easy in Win 2000, so it should be the same story in XP. (Should,
of course, is a very dangerous word...)
David J. Littleboy
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and purchased the 8000, I don't have A3 quality images yet.)
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for 16x20, and I've learned the hard way that some are problematic
for full-bleed A4. Sigh.
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that saves money:
you can't waste a lot of paper at half an hour a shot). And I'd love to be
persuaded that the Minolta's the right way to go.)
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print they show is lovely), but
that the Canon is going to be for the rest of us. I'm just getting back into
film photography after a long hiatus, and figured either the 950C or the 900
would be enough for my needs for at least a year or so...
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yet.
FWIW
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was expecting it to take an
age...)
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Photoshop as a graphics
design/layout package, but as the first step in one's scanning workflow, it
seems to be quite the right thing.
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in areas of high detail and contrast. Since raw scan data
doesn't have such areas, JPEG works well.
David J. Littleboy
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. Fortunately, taking a focus reading with
VueScan is quite quick.
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, signal amplitudes.
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Qimage print it.)
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experience with in-camera sharpening
(consumer dcams) is that it has too low threshold setting and aggravates
noise something fierce, but maybe scanner sharpening isn't so obnoxious...)
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of the
individual values are determined by the meanings of the endpoints and how
finely the actual range is chopped up, but it is the density range that
determines the meaning of the endpoints.)
David J. Littleboy
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, and that the size of that range is given by the
worse of the noise in the electronics or the bit resolution of the scanner.
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and I disagree, but if you think they are
different, then we all agree. That's all there is here.
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quotes me, what do you use?
I insert the by hand, since depending on the headers, dear old
brain dead Outlook Express fails to insert the normal quote marks.
G.
David J. Littleboy
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infer from the definitions used at the above web page, that it _is_ a very
good approximation.
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rings, but was ring-free
when scanned upside down. Sharpness was fine.
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, but I guess people
were kicking him about that and he came throughg. He's pretty amazing.
I can't speak to how important that is, since I still have a lot to learn
about color...
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shape, in terms of products. About the
only obvious holes are an MF scanner in the US$1000 to US$1500 price range
and a pigment ink inkjet in the A4 (letter/legal) size.
David J. Littleboy
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that detail onto the print. My conclusion would be that MR's
photoshop technique is poor, but he concluded that MF has less resolution.
It's like the three laws of thermodynamics: You can't win, you can't break
even, and you can't get out of the game.
David J. Littleboy
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, and that I'm not doing that well with the
scanner. And I haven't seen any scans on the net that were any better than
what I'm getting...
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adjustments in 16/48-bit mode as possible.
(Sorry about the noise if you're already doing this.)
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(see the article on
Luminous Landscape) I've ever seen (if it is pepper grain). I think Kodak
messed up the processing.
If that scan was made without ICE, you might try an ICE scan. ICE cleans up
pepper grain nicely.
David J. Littleboy
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installed on your computer. Delete half your
fonts and try again.
Or use Picture Window Pro.
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, sharpen lightly, downsample to 2000 dpi, and sharpen
lightly again. You'll get an image that is just as good as (if not better
than) any DSLR image, and has 13MP or so.
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would have
thought. I shoot a lot of urban stuff, and that would really irritate me no
end.
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the ONE WAY sign. (Diagonals seem to survive (see
the finer wires) but the fat wires are a jaggy mess (those are jaggies, not
twisted pair cables).) At first glance there seems to be a lot of detail,
but it's all aliasing artifacts.
David J. Littleboy
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a D100 or 10D. The 1Ds, on the other hand, has a much better
viewfinder (a real joy to look through) than any of the affordable cameras,
but makes my Mamiya 645 ProTL feel like an Olympus PenF by comparison. An
amazingly heavy, awkward, bulky camera.
David J. Littleboy
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version out with Neat Image like noise reduction/sharpening.
The bad news, though, is that 16-bits per channel is not a panacea. If the
original data is bad, editing will make it worse. And scanner output is
pretty funky.
David J. Littleboy
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doesn't have a curves tool, although it's high
on the author's list of things to add. What it does have support for is
color calibration.
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favors, but Vuescan gave you full manual control over everything
the scanner did.
and well worth the
price of admission for people who want more automated scanning.
You're still doing cheapshots: it's not pretty.
David J. Littleboy
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about it
relative to this debate, Dickie, oh, I mean David ;-)
Touché!
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LAURIE SOLOMON [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Ok, thanks. While there may be such a program out there, I have not seen
one for PC systems to the best of my knowledge;
Picture Window Pro handles 16-bit data everywhere.
David J. Littleboy
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Brad Davis [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Except on a MAC... Unfortunately.
Stubbornness has its costs
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brilliant, and the latest version comes with Neat Image like
noise reduction (hidden in the Advanced Sharpen function). At US$90 or so,
it's worth trying.
http://www.dl-c.com/Temp/
They also provide quite reasonable support on their message boards.
David J. Littleboy
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haven't dealt with that as such yet. Inversely, my scans on
my 14-bit scanner are a noisy mess, even slide film, so I'm willing to
listen to arguments that 8-bits is more than enough (and that scanner Dmax
claims are completely and totally insaneg).
David J. Littleboy
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) makes doing my own processing unattractive. Sigh.)
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find that they
aren't quite good enough.
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an enlarger print is not so much that you can actually see
that resolution
from a normal viewing distance, but that a 10% MTF at 6 lp/mm is a good
predictor of a 80%+
MTF at 2-3 lp/mm, which is what really matters.
Agreed. This is, IMHO, exactly right.
David J. Littleboy
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originals.
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pixels, strikes me as seriously problematic.
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out of a 35mm frame than a 4000 dpi
scanner. I suspect that it's not enough of a difference to be significant.
(None of the Minolta 5400 scans of actual images I've seen showed
significant improvement over 4000 dpi scans, although the test chart images
look a lot better.)
David J. Littleboy
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into close to 10D quality. Maybe the better 35mm lenses are
sharper than my Mamiya MF lenses, and some 35mm scans can be downsampled to
2700 dpi. Whatever. There are lots of people who come up with 9MP or so as
the digital equivalent of 35.
David J. Littleboy
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cornered patches of color are pretty obvious
to us. It is the reason camouflage works so well, our eyes and brain
don't register ill-defined edges of similar colors well.
Again, there's no reason to see pixels in larger digital images at all.
David J. Littleboy
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be a thing of
amazing beauty. Stitch together four 6MP dSLR images and print it at 16x24,
and you'll have a print that 35mm can never dream of, whatever printing
technology you use.
David J. Littleboy
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).
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put words in my mouth.
Do you think that I'm wrong in that???
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that the unevenness in the film
emulsion should prevent Newton rings most of the time. Wrong. But they knew
they were wrong and provide masksg. (Actually, I cut my own masks because
the masks they provide only mask one frame.)
David J. Littleboy
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a bit better
than the 2450 or 3200, both of which have great DOF...
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of the
spectral response are such that there are strong valleys and peaks, and that
those valleys and peaks vary from batch to batch. So the Nikon scanners can
have wildly different responses to different batches of Kodachrome.
Sounded sensible and possible, but I've never shot Kodachrome...
David J
100F is WONDERFUL
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for a 645 frame. Ouch.
Still, very much worth trying. Most have free demo or home versions you can
play with.
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scanning it as a color negative or as a color positive, and
picking whichever of those looks better.
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before the trip.
David J. Littleboy
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in
grainlessness?
Not in Japan*. Does Agfa still make RSX (ISO 50)?
*: http://www.fujifilm.co.jp/ppg/datasheet/163AR094B.pdf
I see what may be going on: Astia 100F is ISO 32 under tungsten using a
wratten 80A filter.
David J. Littleboy
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for Astia and ISO 32.
It's just the datasheet for Astia 100F: I'd guess there are English versions
on the net if you looked around.
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is noticeably shy of 2700 dpi. That's pretty
good, but for 35mm, you'd probably be better off with a real scanner.
David J. Littleboy
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http://www.photo-i.co.uk/Reviews/interactive/Epson%204870/page_6.htm
with a flatbed with a transparency attachment?
If your 35mm use is minimal, and 6x6 is your main camera, the 4870 may keep
you happy.
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From: Bob Frost [EMAIL PROTECTED] asks:
With a slide copier on the front of your digital camera,
who needs a scanner?
Medium and large format users.
David J. Littleboy
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.)
However, looking at the glass holder, it looks to me as though it will hold
a three 6x7 frame strip without problem. As long as the strip is less than
23 cm long.
David J. Littleboy
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- Original Message -
From: Lotus M50 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL
computer
that's quite a bit faster, so I'm planning on trying again.
My basic take is that high-res film scans need noise reduction, and
NeatImage does a good job.
There's also NoiseNinja that a lot of peole like, but I don't know if it has
a MAC version.
David J. Littleboy
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requires that you
get it right at scan time.
(Truth in advertising: I scan into Picture Window Pro, and GEM crashes PWP,
so I don't use it. Ouch.)
David J. Littleboy
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! It's a real pleasure to see someone being sensibleg. Providing GEM as
a standalone separate from the scanning phase is clearly the right idea.
David J. Littleboy
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/pderocco/image/36593399
In the foreground, the artificial edge invention looks like some exotic
Photoshop special effect.
(Next gets the GF one.)
Thanks for posting that: I had been wondering what it did, and now I know I
don't need itg.
David J. Littleboy
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could scan at 14 bits, 4x or 8x, and set black/white points and futz
with curves in PS (well, PWP) later. Sigh.
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+ NikonScan does a good job of giving me something usable for
slides. (I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with color negative
materials, mostly hate.)
David J. Littleboy
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to the list from a new member. I do need to experiment with
scanning BW film as a positive and see what I get going that route.
Didn't I just say thatg.
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a bit better.)
The new Canon 350D with, say, the 24/2.8 (functions like a 38mm lens) would
give the XA a run for the money (and kill the XA at ISO 800 or 1600) and not
be a lot larger. (The 350D + 24/2.8 weighs 590 + 270 or so grams.)
http://www.photo.net/equipment/canon/digital_rebel_xt/
David J
the Pentax
*istD and Canon 350D are quite awkward to hold. Most people find them
perfectly usable.
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niceties like still having a liver 5 years from now seem more important than
5% sharper scans.
*: And would love to see someone try it on the Epson 4870.
David J. Littleboy
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, I'd think US$400 or so would be worth the investment.
Also, you can ebay the thing when you are done with it and get some of that
back.
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. :-)
People claim they can see amazing differences between drum scans and Nikon
scans. I can't.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com/jmdavis/lws_8000.jpg
http://www.terrapinphoto.com/jmdavis/lws_4500.jpg
David J. Littleboy
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if the bloke who made the print displayed next to
yours used MF or 12MP digital.)
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angels on heads of pins.
And the 12.7 and 16MP Canons look a lot more like 645 than 35mm, in terms of
print quality at 12x18. (This guy is printing a lot bigger than I would, and
thus is agonizing over really minor differences.)
http://www.shortwork.net/equip/review-1Ds-SQ-scantech/
David J
to CLA the Nikon 8000, pick up a cheap EOS film
body, and do the work. But there's real work in the inbox, a guitar to be
practiced, old photographs to be processed, and new photographs to be
taken...
David J. Littleboy
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for twice the resolution at a much wider f stop may be problematic.)
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resolution by it's snap-to-grid effect
which puts features in the wrong place; it's an artificial sharpening trick
at best.
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6x7. ;-)
I like my Mamiya 7, too. But it doesn't replace an SLR, and you have to need
to print larger than A3 to need 6x7.
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equal a
prime lens but that may be changing) but I try to stay within its
limitations - shoot at the lowest ISO that I can get away with and
control exposure time to stay within a range of f:4 to f:11.
Yep. The Tamron 28-75/2.8 does amazing work here on the 5D.
David J. Littleboy
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of a glass case on the dusty
second floor of a used camera shop here in Tokyo, and when I stood up and
turned around, there was a Fuji GX-680 on the top shelf of the case behind
me ready to pounce. I practically had a heart attack; that guy's enormous.
David J. Littleboy
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in its A/D converter
doesn't mean you have X bits of valid data in the output files.
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I think we are having an unecessary argument
Agreed. Take it off list.
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.
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. At it's best, it's surprisingly close to the Nikon 8000,
but persuading the film to be flat without wet mounting might be hard.
David J. Littleboy
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