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TO VENGURLA, VIA KARWAR... WITH A 'XENDRI' IN HAND
What it meant to be a schoolboy at transition-time in Goa, a
generation ago
By Constantino 'Tino' de Nazare
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[This is one of the
contributions from an alumni of
St Britto's, the prominent
Mapusa-based school that
completed 60 years this month,
which is slated to appear in a
book of old boys' memories and
tributes. Tino Nazare is a
long-time Goanetter.]
I first did segundo grau (basic education in Portuguese) and
then joined the school, which at that time was in the Duler
locality of Mapusa. Two years later, we moved to the new
premises, the site where the school is still located atop the
Altinho locality of that North Goa town.
I was nine years old when I first joined the old
school, near the Duler ground. Ours was the last
batch during the Portuguese regime which could not
answer our exams in Goa, so we had to go to 'Uniao
Indiana' (India). Some of my friends went to
Mumbai, others went to Pune and I opted for
Vengurla. That was the closest and most economical.
I still remember buying Indian rupees with the Neugi in the
Mapusa Market. I got Rs. 170 for the Portuguese 100 ruppee
worth of "escudos".
Our journey was long. Since there was no border crossing in
North Goa, we travelled on a circuitous route that went south
to go to Vengurla which lies to the north of Goa, via Karwar,
armed with the 'Documento da Viagem' (travel document).
This journey involved crossing the Sabarmati river, thence to
Hubli and Belgaum in those old 'ST' (state transport) buses.
Once in Belgaum, a commercial town to the east of Goa, we
went to Vengurla.
The no man's land crossing was something hard to forget.
There were literally no men, ladies or gentlemen except our
'pursao'. That is, our procession of BOBs (Britto old-boys),
who of course were at that time still just Britto boys.
Each of us carried our own 'xendri', an imported straw mat
that was the first thing I sold later on, over the border
when I returned.
We were all accommodated in a moderate-sized hall in Vengurla
where we put down our 'xindris' (straw mats). Our host was a
tile-merchant known as Bento who gave us lovely meals: fish
and hot curry with a lot of good 'achars' (pickles, Indian
style) unknown in the Goa of those days.
Of course, we enjoyed our freedom of being independent (from
the school interiors, that is). There were lot of firsts in
my life then. Like, I watched my first Indian film
'Pardeshi'. We stayed there for about three weeks, and then
returned the same circuitous way we arrived.
Some of my class mates were Anthony da Silva from
Moira, nicknamed "Xillo Padtio" (I believe he is a
priest now), Baptist Dias from Moira nicknamed The
Philosopher, Xavier from Salvador do Mundo
nicknamed "Deuchar" or Devil (no offense, Xavier).
we had Valeriano Azavedo and his brother “bangdo”,
or Mackeral, Ramiro Cabral from Porvorim (now he is
in Mumbai).
Almost everyone had a nickname at Britto's. Others included
the late Mariano, the late Jeremi (Benaum), Stephen from
British Africa (known to the boys as 'Elvis Presley'), and
Mervin (also from Africa) and his brother Jimmy. There was
Joseph (Capri).
Bernard D'Souza from Anjuna was called "Gandhi" by us. I
contacted him in 1984 in Germany from Lisbon, where I
happened to meet another ex-Brittos alumni, Antonio da Costa,
when my ship had docked in Lisnave, Lisbon.
There were others like Rodney de Souza from Assagao, and John
Nazareth (also from Assagao). Orlando Fausto Fernandes,
Dominick and Ramchandra Godekar (Colvale). The latter has a
bar in the Mapusa market. Remo Pinto's is someone I often see
at Mapusa.
Then there were the D'Souza brothers Anthony and Baptist (I
see Baptist sometimes, he used to be in Kuwait and was there
during the Sadam Hussein's invasion). Alex Lobo died in an
accident, and is the brother of Floriano Lobo.
Alex and me met often in Mumbai where we studied in St.
Xavier's Technical Institute. We took up the same profession
as commercial ships' Radio Officers. And we also had Mario
Carvalho (now in Assagao), who had directly joined the SSC
class after his Liceu.
Our principal was Fr. Edward D'Souza, and his
brother Fr. Vincent D'Souza also taught us. Others
were Fr. Condilac, and Fr. Vaz. Our best times were
those retreats, in Baga, where we used to steal
tender coconuts, and enjoy climbing the coconut
trees.
My best memories were of the teachers, like the late Teacher
Nina Soares, who taught me in the first standard, and was
very tender with me. She was a kind and gentle soul. As I
could not speak English, she would help me to translate from
Portuguese until I could speak fluently once I passed the
first standard. Alas, she is no more.
Then, there was Guruji, our Hindi teacher, whom I used to
appreciate very much, and Sir Reggie from Duler. Mr. Menezes
was the owner of the house which accommodated the school when
I first joined Brittos in 1954. We would call him "coddo", as
he was bald.
How could I forget Fr. Ubaldo de Sa? He was behind
the construction of the new complex where the
present building is located. I would often see him
in Panjim, at municipal garden near the Jesuit
House.
Our picnics were something unforgettable, we once went to
Arvalem via Ponda, where we saw the match box factory, one of
the few signs of industrialisation in the Goa of the times.
The vehicle used came from the "esquadrao" (squadron) near
the current court house. It was an army truck, all closed up,
and we boys were all hurdled inside.
I still remember the driver, a Portuguese military man,
carrying a machine gun with him, just in case there was an
attack en route! Nothing happened though.There was a danger
of land-mines in those days, as we heard there were
'terrorists' lurking around.
There is so much to write, so much to be thankful for, so
much to enjoy by way of old memories.
Things have changed now. Often I go to my old school
incognito, watching the students, and reminiscing the class
rooms where we occupied and were so blessed. I remember the
place where we boiled eggs in a tin using 'talkule' firewood.
In my travels on board the merchant ships --
tankers, bulk carriers and passenger liners -- I
met in ports mostly three widely-scattered tribes,
the Jews, Sindhis and my fellow Goans. The best
memories I have was I met Agnelo (ex-Brittos) in
Finland, and others in Bahamas. Again, there were
some in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil).
Since my sailing days, I am married and have two kids and am
based in Goa where I finally returned after living in Mexico
(for two-and-half years), Europe, the USA and other Latin
American countries including Argentina and Brazil, where I
got 'hitched'. It is nice to go down memory lane.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
[Constantino 'Tino' de Nazare is a radio officer who
travelled the world, to return to his homeland and Goa. He
runs an interesting bookshop at Panjim, more as a labour of
love and commitment.]
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