> How do I prevent this from happening again? Does anyone have a good book or > site > or something that will help me? I'd love to improve on this so I don't feel so > self conscious about what I am wearing.
I've read all the replies and have one more thing to add: thread bars are going to cause different tensions to the metal hooks. I generally will use the eyes that come with my hooks so as to keep the tension equal on both sides of the opening. I sew through all layers at the base of both hooks and eyes but I also sew at the top of both hooks and eyes. Most people know to sew at the top of the hook but it's just as vital to do so with the eyes. I sew a stitch at about 11 and 1 o'clock of the curve of the eye- just enough to let the hook through and no more. This means the eye will move with all the layers of the fabric just like the hook. Doing it this way means I don't need to alternate hooks and eyes as I have equal tension all the way. I also don't sew my hooks too far from the edge of the garment as that will also cause gaping and lifting. It's only a couple of mm from the edge if I sew the hooks and eyes securely through every layer- there have been times I've stretched the stitching and had to redo them. I do like to use mid to large sized hooks as I can sew boning between the stitches at the top and base of the hooks and eyes (baleen can be shaped into a curve so I use a very soft cable tie which can also be shaped into those curves). But often the thickness of the fabrics and seam allowances is enough (I usually use a heavy wool/linen shell with a layer of canvas and then lining so six layers of fabric is quite solid! I do though also use trimming to hide the visible stitches usually unless I've been super careful with my stitches to be neater on the outside than inside ;) Luckily most of the guarding I do sits about 5mm from the edge so it's quite perfect to hide stitches. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
