Re: [h-cost] re: Gores

I hand sew everything... and my gores are razor sharp. All it ever takes is practice. As for no gores in the 13th century being sharp... Just how many extant garments do we have to make that assumption on? I would personally think that gores varied ... some pointy, some not. YMMV, Bridgette

Re: [h-cost] re: Gores

Hi folks... good discussion here... thanks, Just how many extant garments do we have to make that assumption on? I would personally think that gores varied ... some pointy, some not. I didn't say no gores in the 13th century are sharp. I said it's a mistake to assume, from the evidence

Re: [h-cost] Great News!!!!!

Dear Penny... This is surely one Blessing. I'm so happy for you. And I hope many more are coming in the days ahead. Sounds to me like that Hotel was put there for a reason... and maybe it's work isn't done yet. Thank you for sharing this joyous news with us. It helps. ::hugs:: Mari /

[h-cost] avoiding pain and distress, hang in there all

Hi folks... I'm sorry to see that Bjarne is being insensitive again. I did not see what he wrote, and I have no desire to - I made a policy some time ago to send all his posts to the trash unread. I hope he hasn't hurt anyone with his words. The last thing we need is more pain and distress.

Re: [h-cost] Odd Jerkin question...

Lovely find, Marc. I don't recall anything off the top... but I'll certainly keep it in mind. Mari / Bridgette On 9/19/05, Marc Carlson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Recently while digging through the old _Catalogue of the Collection of London Antiquities in the Guildhall Museum._ London. 1908, I

Re: [h-cost] Embroidered Coif from VA/ stitch question

Hey there... that is a form of chain stitch. give me a sec... I'll go look for a reference... rummagedropmumble... OK... Therese de Dilmont calls it Basket stitch. Which is just a modified chain. p. 135 in the 2002 reprint. In my original volume p. 139. Mildred Davis -- calls it simply

Re: [h-cost] Embroidered Coif from VA/ stitch question

Hi folks... remember... stitch names vary - sometimes wildly from era to era, and author to author... Others remain stable. That is why I gave the name of the author as well as the name of the stitch as it is described in their book. OK... so the smocking site uses the term basket stitch a

[h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...

Hi all... working late and finally have a chance to update things... so just in case anyone is interested in the state of the Punto Tagliato Lace Commission... http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/LaceComm/ ___ h-costume mailing list

Re: [h-cost] Tippets

Robin Netherton has written quite an explanation of tippets. The article is in the first Journal of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. Information there may help you in your efforts to produce your own. The article is scholarly, and not a how-to-make type. Of course... you might have already read

Re: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...

Thank you Kimberley. : Mari / Bridgette On 10/7/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It is awesome! You are doing a fabulous job. :) ~Kimberley ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com

Re: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...

to be; or are the pics real size? You speak of sleeves and chemise: will this piece show outside or will it remain only for interior beauty? Kathleen - Original Message - From: Marie Stewart [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HCostume [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Brenda / Filipia [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent

Re: [h-cost] Re: KWCS report?

Sounds like it was well worth the trip. Thank you for sharing. If I may ask... would you also share the pleat work contact information... I don't want to swamp the poor lady ; but I would love to see what she has found. Many thanks, Mari / Bridgette And finally, the pleatwork class was

Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

A German coat a'la 1580. Front opening fitted bodice, skirt pleated in the back. Made of rust fulled wool, lined with black Muppet fur. The long sleeves end in hefty turned back cuffs, and a black silk cord is couched along the entire circumference. Just for fun. Didn't even bother to hand sew

[h-cost] Muppet Fur

in the portrait, and seeing as this project was just for fun, I went with the Muppet. : http://www.fabric.com/Webdata/Product/d4ebf93b-829b-405c-b49d-68a951920948/Images/Medium_AK-781.jpg Mari On 11/14/05, Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Monday 14 November 2005 1:51 pm, Marie Stewart

Re: [h-cost] Muppet Fur

This is the painting which inspired me. Holbein before England ... I misremembered the date. Portrait of Young Woman Artist: Hans Holbein 1517 http://www.wga.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1518/5wife.jpg On 11/15/05, Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Marie Stewart wrote: Muppet Fur

[h-cost] Holbein - before England portrait

. vbeg This one portrait just has so many interesting bits and items. Mari / Bridgette... like I don't already have enough to do. On 11/16/05, Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Marie Stewart wrote: This is the painting which inspired me. Holbein before England ... I misremembered

Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

Dame Catriona... Hey there... I don't know of any knitted garters. I've looked at lots of inventories and wills and not seen them mentioned. Of course, that doesn't mean that they don't exist, just that I haven't seen any in about 7 years of historic knit research. Have you tried over on the

Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

On 11/23/05, Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Since working all knit stitches is known as garter stitch, knitted garters must have been common at some period! Hey Kate - It is indeed possible. Most of my research is in the pre-1600 time frame, so that is the only area on which I can

Re: [h-cost] Re: opera

Hi folks. Also coming in late... but this I can comment on. I do sing opera, and I do wear corsets, sometimes both together. (side note) Remember, corset shapes are not all the same. (/side note) What I tend to wear are 1550+ to about 1700 corsets. Most of these are somewhat cylindrical in

Re: [h-cost] Any other photo album site recommendations?

Smugmug.com An example of one of their albums is at ithaca.smugmug.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Tailoring a man's shirt

Hi folks... I'm stumped and needing some help. My husband has a nice new dress shirt. But except for the neckline, which does fit, the rest of it resembles something ala Barnum and Bailey. This shirt is huge. How on earth do you approach taking 8 inches out of the waist and 4 inches out of

Re: [h-cost] Tailoring a man's shirt

Brilliant! I'll go look. Thanks! Yeah...how are the armholes? Look at the construction. I'll bet the sleeve seam and the side seams were sewn last and at once. [Flat fell seams?] 4 is just 2 a side seam, which is 1 on the front piece and 1 on the back piece. IOW, if you fold the shirt on

Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting

Thank you for that article... very interesting. Now what the retailers are missing is the opportunity to expand, and raise their sales. Imagine... A large chain adopts the Fitlogic system. Inside their stores, they create separate boutiques, or even a small independent entity. One for each

Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review

I agree. ; The book does however, just cover that area of teaching that I needed it to cover, the I'm curious and want to look right(er), but I don't really want to learn the skills to make it personality that I occaisionally run across. I'll use it as a teaching tool Mari / Bridgette On

Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question

No library digging needed for this one, I think; I suspect you can give me enough for my purposes off the top of your head! Thanks... wow. Here's the situation: I'm editing an article that refers to depictions of the Virgin in 14th and 15th century European paintings as showing clothes

Re: [h-cost] Update on Henry VIII book

Thanks for the update... Until then... I'm treating myself to reading the inventories of Henry VIII. Amazing stuff. On 4/24/06, Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've just heard from my contact at the publisher that _Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII_, listed as forthcoming in

Re: [h-cost] New MCT Book was Update on Henry VIII book

grrr... still waiting for mine. Bridgette On Tue, 25 Apr 2006, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote: I got mine today! Looks good! Thanks, Kathy And, hurrah, mine just arrived! --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com

Re: [h-cost] Roman Soldiers

Nylon broom straw, in red if you can find it. Or regular broom straw, dyed, or painted. put a bunch together with a rubber band, make a puddle of glue (hot glue) stand the bundle up in it. ? Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list

Re: [h-cost] Edward I's wardrobe account

Hey there... I have had these in the past... but I think I have returned them. Let me check at home tonight, they might just still be on the shelf. On 9/19/06, Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone have either of these books? Can you tell me if they contain much useful

[h-cost] Mixing fibers

Aha... looks like the topic has headed in a direction that I am very interested and currently looking into. What I'm trying to find is evidence of when wool and silk might first have been spun together to form a thread or yarn. Not that I'm making copious headway at the moment, but it's one of

Re: [h-cost] silk filament thread

D'oh! head smack And then there are the days you just wish you had read the entire post before looking like an idiot. Try the YLI. Mari ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Moda a Firenze arrived

Pretty much the subject line says it all. My copy arrived yesterday. Funny story, and no cause for alarm... I immediately flipped through it and it is stunning. I sat down and opened it to the introduction and started to read the Italian... I had thought it was supposed to be in English but,

Re: [h-cost] MCT vol. 3 announcement

Thank you for posting the TOC, Robin. This volume looks just as packed full of interesting items as the others. Mari [Feel free to forward this announcement to other lists.] Volume 3 of Medieval Clothing Textiles, the journal I co-edit with Gale Owen-Crocker, will be released any day now.

Re: [h-cost] Fabric and Costume in Ireland

Oh! I was just there last summer. We spent a great deal of time on bicycles and looking through castle ruins so my shopping was relatively non-existent. But there is the Artisans Center in Kilkenny. Most if not all is modern work in various media, but still definitely worth a stop. Other

Re: [h-cost] 16th century dress question embroidery

Ah yes! I've seen this portrait before. My first question, as always, is what did they do at the time? Embroidery I will admit is not my strongest suit and perhaps I am conjuring up the wrong mental picture of what you mean by wool felt. But my gut reaction is no, not wool. In part it is

Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?

I now know what I want for my 40th b-day. Thanks Robin. : Mari On 6/4/07, Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: For the Italian costuming enthusiasts: http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list

Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?

Mine said yes, as long as we throw in a bike tour. : Go for it! Mari On 6/5/07, Rebecca Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: O...my husband promised me Italy for our 15th anniversary evil grin Do you think he'd go for it? ___ h-costume

Re: [h-cost] asking for suggestions to fix sleeves

Thanks folks for the suggestions. I'm thinking along the same lines as Dawn, so I think I will try that first. I'm glad to hear from some one who has also conquered the same problem. Thanks again. Mari The problem, as you will see in the photo is the sleeves. It seems that I have taken a)

Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective

Thank you Anne. http://tinyurl.com/23mle4 Enjoy! Anne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] MCT4 (was: Scandinavian archaeological textiles)

Whooo h! I already want a copy. Mari Someone asked me about the editing on Scandinavian archaeological textiles I'm in the middle of, and it occurred to me you all might like a sneak peek of the tentative contents of Vol. 4 (2008) of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. Flax/linen production

Re: Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train

Interesting statement that echoes a treatise on Elizabethan clothing that I am reading right now. Just as an observation, I would think that our idea of personal space has changed, and this in turn, is both a reflection of our clothing and reflected by our clothing. More musing on this is due.

Re: [h-cost] Just a test

Hey there... It is likely that many folks who portray 1600 and earlier have gone on vacation. There is a very large national historic-ish camp out happening this week. Me... I'm just having a lot of life at the moment. But it is kind of eerie to hear the crickets chirping. : Mari / Bridgette

Re: [h-cost] Just a test

For those of us Pennsic Starved... tell, tell, tell... Of course, on topic things... : Mari / Bridgette On 8/10/07, monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We are home early. Classes taught, Arts displayed. Too much rain! Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [h-cost] Just a test

ooh, question for you. Did they happen to address how to splice in a thread if your original length of thread was too short? I've always made my buttons with exceedingly long lengths of thread for fear of not being able to figure out how to add more thread. Thanks, and good to have you home

Re: [h-cost] Just a test

thanks!! That is very helpful. Mari / Bridgette On 8/13/07, Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yes. For the most part, the teacher recommended taking the end of the first thread under whatever is already wrapped around the core and out the bottom, where you've already got thread

Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510

How is your friend going to reproduce them? ~ Bridgette On 8/17/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thank you. A friend of mine is going to make the tulips for me and I wanted to give her the best image possible. kate ___ h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Found it! - Colored shirts in the 16th century?

It could be a 'waistcoat' , sometimes called a 'shirt' in inventories, meaning a layer for warmth. Usually you find them as flannen, flannel, rarely lined silk, or sometimes linsey-woolsey, other materials are possible, I'm just not at my resources. 2cents reading out of context. Mari On Jan

[h-cost] Need some help

In the process of cleaning up my sewing room I have lost something and I need some help finding it - or another copy of it. What I have misplaced is a photo of a contract between a needlewoman/silkworker and the woman that she took on as a student. The contract spells out all the skills and

[h-cost] Tailoring Revolution Was: Flat Bottomed Armholes

In very, very general terms the phenomenon you are looking at is known as the tailoring revolution. It started roughly 1350s with the advent of the button, in the higher echelons of society and as most fashion/garment techniques moved down. The flat bottom armhole that we are talking about is

Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe

In the 16th century I can tell you this much. Black was worn for initial mourning, the first year or two, and is associated with deepest mourning. A cap of linen with a pleated veil was typical in France, and that would usually be white. Deepest mourning was typically depicted by all black, the

Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe

Here is the portrait of Mary in the French White Mourning veil. Note that she is wearing a simple French cut gown in black? beneath it. Mari http://www.nationalgalleries.org/media_collection/6/PG%20186.jpg ___ h-costume mailing list

Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe

Hm that's interesting. The white pleated wimple (like in this portrait) was worn in Ireland by widows in the 16th century. Kass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe

:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marie Stewart Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 11:42 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe Hm that's interesting. The white pleated wimple (like in this portrait) was worn in Ireland by widows in the 16th century. Kass

Re: [h-cost] Lace ID Help

It looks to me like Battenburg lace. At work... that's all I can think of without my books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Stains

What is the fabric in question? On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 11:18 AM, Shane Sheridan Chabot [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I know this subject comes up from time to time, but I couldn't find if this particular one had been covered: How do you get stains from underarm deodorant out of fabric? This isn't

Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Does anyone in your Costume group know . . .

Need the URL to the image. I have a suspicion, but would like to verify. Mari 2008/6/18 [EMAIL PROTECTED]: My husband sent this to me. Has anyone seen this before? Thanks, Catherine Does anyone know where this picture comes from? A fellow on the Armour Archive is wondering. I find

Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Does anyone in your Costume group know . . .

Ah, it probably is, but my GMail is stripping the image out. Too bad. Mari On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 9:37 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sorry, I thought the image was imbeded in the e-mail. I'll try again. Catherine In a message dated 6/18/2008 9:34:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL

Re: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral, Madrid Spain

OH, thank you. Mari / Bridgette On Mon, Jul 21, 2008 at 2:07 PM, Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share. Enjoy Sg Sorry if this is a repeat - it didn't appear to

Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

H this encourages me to take a photo or two. Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Organization

I keep it all on a hanger. With a bag holding the notions and related items, and the garment on the hanger. IF there's no room in the closet for another bulky hanger, it's time to finish something. Mari I have a lot of those big Rubbermaid tubs for storing yardgoods; but what do you use for

Re: [h-cost] What colors were used Charles du Blois Purpoint?

I have always suspected that the button shape was related to the weight distribution of the armour. Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] For the Fiber and sewing geeks :

Wow, It really does exist. A friend just sent me a link for 100% real silk velvet. Now all I need is that winning lottery ticket. http://aurorasilk.com/fabrics/silks_shiny/ALLSILKVELVET.html Happy drooling. Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list

Re: [h-cost] his blue coat

/Carl_Wilhelm_Scheele. Can't recall the name of the unfortunate chemist who discovered HCN. The tale with that story ends up with the poor chap quite dead, and stained blue, from the experiment with Prussic Dye. On Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Marie Stewart maric...@gmail.com wrote: AH. One thing just

Re: [h-cost] his blue coat

Hi folks. I must, respectfully, disagree with Ann on a point about the color Prussian Blue Prussian Blue is defined as absorbing wavelengths about around 680 nm, causing it to appear in visible light as approximately 700 THz. Which is a lovely strong blue leaning towards the violet end of the

Re: [h-cost] pouting about R. Wedding coverage

CBS this morning. I had thought to go to BBC America, but I can't get it in High Def. Got up at 6AM... and Just saw Catherine getting out of the Car, everything from that point on was LIVE. I would have seen more but I couldn't get myself up at 5AM. SO, go to CNN (or BBC) And watch the

Re: [h-cost] Renaissance dance costumes

Hey there. The pattern you have selected there is the gamurra, the under dress for practically all levels of Florentine society. The over dress, the Giornea was where the real flash would have been, sumptuous fabrics, jeweled necklines, brooches to hold them closed. The sleeves of the

Re: [h-cost] Interesting underwear find

The Daily Mail Article is 'interesting' but the more interesting piece is the summary of the presentation from the NESAT conference. You can find it here. http://www.nesat.org/abstracts/lecture_nutz.pdf I sent out both links initially, but not to HCost, ah well. There's more information out

Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth Bull wedding dress

@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Marie Stewart 607 793 3409 maric...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume