Re: [h-cost] Dating an image

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hello!
 
I am now officially curious.    Any way that I can see this too?

Cheers,
Danielle
 
> From: exst...@gmail.com
> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2016 18:25:41 -0500
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dating an image
> 
> Interesting piece!  It's both right up my alley, and out of my area of
> expertise.
> 
> I've spent a couple of decades collecting images of ads from about
> 1860-1970, so in that sense it's definitely my thing.  I LOVE old
> advertising/marketing/packaging. Frustratingly, though, just knowing when
> the image on the glass is from won't really date the piece with certainty.
> 
> This looks like the glass bottle packaging of some commercial product (I'm
> not familiar with it, but I'm checking my files and will keep checking)--in
> other words, not necessarily directly related to or produced by the
> military, although probably marketed to it judging by the clothing, which
> reminds me of WW1 women's volunteer or reserve uniforms.  The image and
> font used is most similar to the styles used starting around 1910, but
> still used into the 1930s (and seen to some degree even later).
> 
> However, the people who made logos and packaging and so forth back then
> made use of clip art just as we do today; the same basic image (sometimes
> with minor changes or updates) might be used and re-used in designs
> throughout several years, and companies might go years or decades without
> updating the design on their packaging.  So, this bottle may have been
> designed in the 1910s, but produced and purchased a decade or more later.
> It's likeliest that you'd see this in the wartime 1910s (especially
> considering the hairstyle; it could be a bob, but is more likely to be a
> late 1910s non-bobbed-but-pulled-back-low female style), but it wouldn't
> completely shock me if something like this popped up as late as the 1940s.
> It'd be unusual, but not impossible.
> 
> The area in which I have zero expertise, beyond a few minutes of searching
> on Google, is one that might help you narrow it down better than the actual
> image: the fact that the image is printed (or painted) in color on glass.
>  (Glass bottle packaging is a whole nother area of research than my own
> paper-based ad research; there's lots of people who specialize in and
> collect that.)  This is an application of technology that might not have
> become common as early as the 1910s; it's also possible that an expert on
> the subject could tell what technique was used to get that image on the
> glass, and come up with a date based on that.
> 
> Long story short, gun to my head I'd say late 1910s, but only if I had to
> give my last best guess, and the researchers would be well-served by
> getting input from people who know about the history of glass packaging.
> 
> Hope this helps, and I'm very interested in any conclusions the people
> working on this eventually reach about the dating of the site!
> -E House
> 
> On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 1:38 PM, Cin  wrote:
> 
> > Did you send a picture?  If so, it probably wont come thru on this list.
> > You'll need to provide a link if you want people to see anything.
> >
> > --cin
> > Cynthia Barnes
> > cinbar...@gmail.com
> >
> > On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 11:14 AM, Hansen, Lia 
> > wrote:
> >
> > > The piece was found in a midden on a military base in Southern California
> > > and is from the 20th century.  We're trying to narrow down the decade.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? [and mouse proof underwear]

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

That sounds intriguing.  Please do post about it.  There still a few of us 
kicking around.  I was around when the list was young so I really want this 
list to keep going.
 
Happy holidays to all!
 
Cheers 
Danielle  
 
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> From: catherine.wal...@cherryfield.me.uk
> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2015 06:40:26 +
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? [and mouse proof underwear]
> 
> On 17/12/2015 06:17, Carol Kocian wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Is h-costume still going?
> [snip]
> 
> I've been wondering that, too.
> I found a reference to a lady's "mouse proof" underwear, which piqued my 
> curiosity, but I hesitated to post about it because the list had been so 
> quiet lately.
> 
> Catherine Walton.
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Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 32

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,
 
Here are a great collection of portraits which might give you a starting point 
for Spanish Renaissance clothing.
http://www.gogmsite.net/iberian_style_in_the_farthi/
 
Cheers 
Danielle  
 
 From: ladycatal...@hotmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com; h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 21:11:54 +0200
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 32
 
 Hi,I would really be interested in the Spanish Ren Costuming; but it does not 
 come up when I do a search on Facebook.Even when I changed iot to Spanish 
 Renaissance From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com
  Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 32
  To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
  Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2015 12:00:01 -0600
  
  Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
  h-costume@mail.indra.com
  
  To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
  or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
  h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com
  
  You can reach the person managing the list at
  h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com
  
  When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
  than Re: Contents of h-costume digest...
  
  
  Today's Topics:
  
 1. Facebook Groups (Monie Bryan)
  
  
  --
  
  Message: 1
  Date: Sun, 31 May 2015 16:44:02 -0700
  From: Monie Bryan cil...@dracolore.com
  To: h-cost...@indra.com
  Subject: [h-cost] Facebook Groups
  Message-ID:
  cafx075-jth4gfjjjxqnbunwwcjwcwji1o4ppvkvoeaxbn1h...@mail.gmail.com
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
  
  Hi Susan,
  
  If you do a search or query on what you are interested in? I am sure you
  can find dozens of historical Costuming Groups
  
  I am part of
  SCA Garb
  Elizabethan Costuming* Really Good*
  Margo Anderson's Patterns Group
  Tudor Tailor
  Renaissance Italian Costuming
  Spanish Ren Costuming
  
  Whatever you could be interested in or wanted to become part of?? You will
  find a group on FB!  Welcome!
  
  
  --
  
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  End of h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 32
  *
 
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Re: [h-cost] storing needles

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,
 
I have always stuck my hand-sewing needles through the fabric of the inside of 
the cloth pencil-case I use as my sewing kit.  However, I have stuck myself too 
many times and have been eyeing this case: 
http://goldstartool.com/Magnetic_Needle_Case.html  Of course, I have also 
trying to think of what I can use to make my own. 
 
Cheers 
Danielle 
 
 Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2015 17:50:50 -0600
 From: charlene...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] storing needles
 
 I'm organizing the craft/sewing room and I'm curious: how do people store
 all their various needles?
 
 For my purposes, I'm excluding knitting and crochet needles (those I have
 under control). I'm trying to better organize my various sewing needles:
 tapestry, crewel, yarn, sewing machine, hand sewing, beading, etc. I've
 been keeping the tapestry needles in little wooden needle cases separated
 by size; the hand sewing needles are mostly attached to the paper they came
 on when I bought them; the machine needles ae mostly in the plastic cases
 they came in. But then I've got the odds and ends that are attached to bits
 of paper or fabric or in pill bottles or the like. Quite the jumble.
 
 Charlene
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Re: [h-cost] Pomona Green: vote now!

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,
 
I think I have that fashion plate, or at least others wearing that same colour. 
 It was a popular colour and I love it too.  They sure liked green during that 
time.    If you asked me to go by the colour name, I would have said it was 
the colour of Granny Smith apples.
 
However, I don't think that any of those you provided links for would be right. 
 Did you notice that it is a shot fabric being depicted?  I think that you 
would be better off looking for a shot silk combining colours like the first 
and second ones.
 
I think that this one is slightly better than the non-shot version:
http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productpath=2product_id=2478 
However, I think that this might do the trick:
http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productpath=2product_id=4642
It has both the yellowish highlights and the blue undertones of the fashion 
plate.
 
Mind you, this one could work as well:
http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productpath=2product_id=1617
 
Surprisingly, if the woman in the photo is wearing the fabric in the photos, it 
is another possibility.
http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productpath=2product_id=1290 
 
Compare them side-by-side with the fashion plate and I think that you will see 
that they are pretty good matches.  Just my opinion, of course, but it appears 
to me that the colouring of the plate follows the usual stylistic conventions 
for depicting shot fabrics, that have been used in European art since the 15th 
century.
 
Cheers 
Danielle 
 
 
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 16:19:22 -0500
 From: h...@uvm.edu
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Pomona Green: vote now!
 
 
 The color name pomona green appears throughout early 19th century 
 fashion magazines. Fashion plates display women in pomona green gowns, 
 or with pomona green accessories, and descriptions of the color usually 
 refer to leaves or apples. First problem: the images depicted are 
 showing a range of greens (understandable in that they are usually 
 handpainted). Second problem: trying to find a green that matches any of 
 the greens in that range is rather difficult in our current decade of 
 very blue greens or very yellow/olive greens. Even the pantone color 
 chart shows us that this range of greens doesn't seem to be in vogue.
 
 So, here's a challenge! Which of the three fabrics linked here would you 
 place in the closest to pomona green category. I know, none of them 
 or you can't tell from an online picture are both logical responses as 
 is just buy some and then decide! But I'm hoping some of you will take 
 a stab at this. And if anyone knows of another site that has the perfect 
 pomona green in a lightweight silk taffeta (especially at these prices) 
 oh my! I would love to know about it. :-)
 
 http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productproduct_id=4014
 http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productproduct_id=2741
 http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productproduct_id=2163
 
 and this is the color I'm most in love with in an illustration:
 http://www.pinterest.com/pin/194991858836404282/
 
 
 - Hope
 
 P.S. And my apologies for sending a question about greens amidst the 
 discussion about post mortem photographs...(groan: ducking and running).
 
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Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,
 
I'm still here.   Funny, I had just been thinking that things were awfully 
quiet, too.  I actually have a Facebook account (I needed it for something or 
other) but I rarely check it.  I discovered quite quickly that I definitely 
dislike it.  It is confusing and *way* too much of a time sink.  That is just 
my opinion, of course. 
Cheers 
Danielle 
 
 From: chim...@ravensgard.org
 Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2015 22:39:57 -0800
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?
 
 Yeah, it has been quiet.
 
 We don't do Facebook because we're OLD, we do still believe in privacy and 
 don't think much of the merchandising of FB info.
 
 The weekend just past was Kingdom 12th Night here in AnTir, that kind of 
 thing might also obtain in other parts of the country???
 
 Now let's see if I can get this to mail without creating duplicates, or just 
 refusing to go at all. argh.
 
 chimene
 
 
 On Jan 13, 2015, at 3:39 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote:
 
  Hi, I haven't been getting any messages lately, until today-I got only one.
  Is the list especially quiet?
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Has anyone tried these machines?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,
 
Thank you for that useful advice.  Unfortunately, it will probably be awhile to 
get into a local dealer (all of the local dealers are the same company and they 
keep lousy hours), so I figure I can gather as much information as I can ahead 
of time.
 
Cheers 
Danielle 
 
 Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:43:19 -0700
 From: badhusw...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has anyone tried these machines?
 
 Hi,
 
 I work for a Babylock dealer. No one has so much as touched the Destiny
 yet. It's that new. The GM for my store will be going to the Babylock
 convention at the end of this month, and she'll get to try one out then.
 They won't be shipping any machines out until September. Until then, all we
 have to go on is the video that Babylock posted on their website. It's a
 beautiful top of the line machine, with a price to match.
 
 I think the Brother Dream Machine is the same type of deal, but I could be
 wrong since we aren't a Brother dealer.
 
 Your best bet is to talk to your local dealer. They may try to talk you
 into putting money down to reserve a machine. Nothing wrong with that, but
 it should be fully refundable if you decide against the purchase.
 
 Hope this helps,
 
 Katie
 
 
 On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 12:19 AM, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg 
 gilshal...@outlook.com wrote:
 
  Greetings,
 
  I am starting to look around for a new sewing/embroidery machine and found
  both the: Babylock Destiny and Brother Dream Machine.  I haven't had an
  opportunity to check them out in person yet, so I wish to be going in with
  as much information as possible.  So if you have one or tried it out,
  please share your thoughts, please.
 
  Cheers
  Danielle
 
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[h-cost] Has anyone tried these machines?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,
 
I am starting to look around for a new sewing/embroidery machine and found both 
the: Babylock Destiny and Brother Dream Machine.  I haven't had an 
opportunity to check them out in person yet, so I wish to be going in with as 
much information as possible.  So if you have one or tried it out, please share 
your thoughts, please.
 
Cheers 
Danielle 
  
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Re: [h-cost] Regency era evening gloves

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,
 
I collect Regency Fashion Plates, so hopefully my input might help.  Oddly 
enough, the single most popular color depicted is a rather bright sky blue, 
even when wearing garments of different colors.  I can never keep the number of 
buttons and the lengths they represent strait, so I will say that in all the 
cases that long sleeves weren't worn, they came up just short of the midway 
point between wrist and elbow.  The color which seems to be the second most 
popular, was a kelly or grass green (the majority of the parasols I've seen 
from this time are usually that same shade of green) in the same cut and length 
as the blue ones. 
 
Given the fact that the fashion plates rarely depict the gloves matching the 
gown, I would pick a bright contrasting color (such as a sunshine yellow) and 
wear them with panache.  It will also rule out any question of it being a 
mourning gown.
 
I hope that this helps.  I would recommend searching for Regency Fashion Plates 
on-line and see the styles for yourself.
 
Cheers,
Danielle 
 
 Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 13:35:37 -0700
 From: humbugfo...@att.net
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Regency era evening gloves
 
 I am making a Regency evening gown for a friend. It consists of a black 
 lace overdress with a slate blue lining. I'm uncertain as to what color 
 gloves should be worn with this color ensemble/ I think white gloves 
 against the black and slate blue would look garish, and black gloves 
 would look too much like mourning wear, which it is not. What would they 
 have worn in Regency times?
 
 Thanks,
 Julie
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Re: [h-cost] Iron age tunic found in melting snow.

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings, 
 
That is super cool!  I think what I find most interesting about it is the 
apparent round armscye - rather than the rectangular construction one would 
tend to expect from the time period.  Of course this is from a time or place I 
admittedly know little of.
 
Cheers, 
Danielle 
 
 
 Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 10:53:57 +0100
 From: catherine.wal...@cherryfield.me.uk
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Iron age tunic found in melting snow.
 
 I thought you might like to see the photograph and read the piece about 
 this complete tunic found in melting snow in Norway.  It is thought to 
 have been made between 230 and 390 AD.  (There were also some archery 
 equipment from a much earlier period revealed as the snow retreats.)
 
 http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-23849332
 
 This is just a press release about two papers in the Journal of 
 Antiquity, to which some of you may have access.  Marianne Vedeler, of 
 the University of Oslo, is the author of article about the tunic.
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Re: [h-cost] old sewing thread

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi Suzanne,

I don't think you can generalize in any way.  Ironically, I bought 
about a dozen very large spools of Belding Corticelli silk thread 
that are of unknown age but at least pre-70s and so far (knock-wood) 
they have all been sound. I have tried the button-hole twist yet 
since they are in rather peculiar colours, but there was no way 
passing them up when they were being cleared out of an old tailoring 
supply shop a couple of dollars a spool.


Besides, the lady who officiated our wedding was a textile 
conservator you should have seen the age of some of the spools of 
things she worked with, and they didn't disintegrate in her 
hands...  So, after all that, I think it all comes down to an 
individual spool basis.  I would personally go for it and have fun!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:54 PM 1/15/2013, you wrote:

Here's an odd question:  How long does cotton or silk sewing thread last?

At work today, we found an old cigar box full of Belding Corticelli 
thread that probably dates back to the early 1950s.  (The small 
spools of cotton were priced at 15 cents and the large ones at 25 
cents.)  I was admiring the beautiful shades of green. . . and then 
everyone else said it would all have to be thrown out because it was 
too old to use in machine sewing.


I'd never heard of thread going bad so now I'm wondering if I was 
just daydreaming that day in home ec class [quite likely!] or if 
this is common knowledge for everyone but me?  (I also have a friend 
who refuses to use vintage cotton fabric because it might rip, so 
there's another question for you!)  I reeled out one spool of white 
and pulled hard, and it does seem thinner than the polyester stuff 
they sell most places these days--but does that mean it won't work 
even for lightweight projects?  Such a waste!  :-(


Suzanne


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Re: [h-cost] Modern sewing challenge - suggestions?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.   I remember wearing ones 
with this stuff on the feet so I shall give it a try!.  Now to see if 
I can drag my husband to JoAnns, yet again.  LOL!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:50 PM 12/14/2012, you wrote:


http://www.joann.com/jiffy-grip-11-x24-white/prd10283/?_requestid=7021852

Jiffy Grip is what you want.  It is that white stuff with the rubber 
swiss dots.  They had yards of it a couple of months ago at my local 
Wally World.  I bought a yard to make some slippers for myself.   It 
works much better than leather since leather will become shiny - and 
therefore slippery!- with useage.   Not fun when you are just trying 
to not get run over by the dog and the cat going down the stairs at 
o dark thirty in the morning after you just woke up.  ;-)


-Isabella

http://extantgowns.blogspot.com


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Re: [h-cost] Modern sewing challenge - suggestions?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi Carol,

Interesting to know that set you made of flannel fell apart due to 
strain fairly quickly.  I'm planning to make mine double layer to 
hopefully avoid that and make them warmer.  I'm also contemplating 
trying a pair where the outer layer is polar fleece and the in 
layer is flannel - that way I get the best of both worlds, the warmth 
of the fleece but without the irritation of a man-made fabric next to 
my skin.  So thanks for the warning and the suggestion!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:18 PM 12/13/2012, you wrote:

I think the pattern I used (many years ago) called for terrycloth soles.
Which sounds kind of slippery. I remember the store-bought jammies having
sort of a dotted swiss, only it was rubber dots on a sturdy fabric.

Ultimately I used a firm cotton for the whole thing, with the same fabric
for the soles. I quilted together a few layers, can't remember what I used
for batting. But I figured that, if it wore out, I could replace the
bottoms of the feet easily enough.

The first set I made were flannel, and they fell apart fairly quickly.
Footie pajamas get a lot more strain than most flannel clothing.

Anyway, maybe you can find a non-skid fabric online. I do also like the
idea of using a rubberized fabric paint, as was suggested already.

-Carol


 Greetings,

 I'm not able for much sewing these days but I'm attempting
 adult-sized footie-pajamas. The problem I haven't solved yet is, what
 to make the bottom of the feet out of.  My original thought was suede
 but I've never sewn with leather or suede so I have no idea how it
 washes (I have a sneaking suspicion not well...)...  So can anyone
 suggest something that has some traction, is nicely flexible,
 washable, and can be sewn onto a couple of layers of cotton
 flannel?  I need something  warm  cuddly, since our post-war house
 was built with curious ideas about insulation (i.e. not much) which
 isn't great in Minnesota winters.  ;-)  So, any suggestions would be
 greatly appreciated.

 Cheers,
 Danielle


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[h-cost] Modern sewing challenge - suggestions?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

I'm not able for much sewing these days but I'm attempting 
adult-sized footie-pajamas. The problem I haven't solved yet is, what 
to make the bottom of the feet out of.  My original thought was suede 
but I've never sewn with leather or suede so I have no idea how it 
washes (I have a sneaking suspicion not well...)...  So can anyone 
suggest something that has some traction, is nicely flexible, 
washable, and can be sewn onto a couple of layers of cotton 
flannel?  I need something  warm  cuddly, since our post-war house 
was built with curious ideas about insulation (i.e. not much) which 
isn't great in Minnesota winters.  ;-)  So, any suggestions would be 
greatly appreciated.


Cheers,
Danielle

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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Excellent point. Thank you for the reminder!  Anyway, in this 
documentary I had mentioned that I had seen they mentioned the fact 
that during the time period of these warriors' creation a shade of 
purple (I can't remember if it was a dye or pigment) was used that 
fell out of fashion shortly afterward and no one has been able to 
reproduce it since.  Scientists have tried and tried to reproduce but 
still can't but have apparently made some useful discoveries out of 
their experiments.  I really wish I could remember the name of the 
show since I'm rather tempted to try and track down a copy.  There 
was tons of useful and fascinating info in it.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 07:55 PM 12/3/2012, you wrote:
I recall reading how shocked people were when they discovered that 
those pristine white marble Greek sculptures had been brightly painted.


One thing to bear in mind is that artist's pigment palettes and 
dyer's palettes are often quite different.


Another thing is that paint colors often are not available in dyes. 
The beautiful ultramarine blue so commonly shown on clothing in the 
various Books of Hours painted for the Duc de Berry in the 14th c. 
was a color unavailable in dye.


Third, colors that are desirable in paint - for example, rare or 
expensive pigments - are often quite different from the colors that 
are rare or expensive in dyes. That ultramarine blue i mentioned 
came from lapis lazuli and was expensive and desirable in paintings. 
But blue in clothing came from woad or indigo and was not so 
desirable. One of the most desirable colors for wool and/or silk was 
the bright blue-red from kermes and other similar lac insects (and 
in the 16th c. from New World cochineal). There is a lake from a lac 
insect used in paint (alizarin), but it doesn't have the bright glow 
of the dye.


Additionally, what mordants are used to fixed the dyes effect the 
colors that result. Using different mordants -- for example alum, 
tannin, and iron -- results in three different colors -- alum fairly 
bright and true; tannin browned a bit; iron saddened, i.e. greyed, 
a bit. Not to forget that mordants often weaken fibers so that they 
don't survive the centuries well.


Further, what fibers are being dyed also effects that colors. Any 
cellulose fiber -- not just linen or cotton, but also various other 
bast fibers such as hemp, ramie -- do not take most colors well, so 
will be paler and fade more quickly. Whereas proteinaceous fibers 
such as wool and silk take colors very well. Silk tends to be 
reserved for the wealthy, but in many places common people wear 
wool, even in summer, if they have sheep, or other wool-type fiber 
bearing animals.


Finally, unlike Euro-American artists of the 19th and much of the 
20th centuries, in many cultures, artists are NOT painting from 
life, and this goes for the colors they use to depict garments.


These points are true -- in general -- for many centuries and at 
least the continents of Asia and Europe, if not on other continents.


I can't speak specifically to the Chinese issue, but it is worth 
reminding ourselves that art is not photograph, and just because 
something is painted a certain way does not mean that people wore 
those colors. Maybe they did, but to back it up, we need more input 
than just pieces of art -- surviving textile fragments, textual 
descriptions, etc.


Anahita


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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

Wow!  That sounds like quite the project you have there.  I haven't a 
clue about peasant costumes, sorry.  But one thing you might want to 
think about is, colour was used a lot more that it would appear 
now.  The statues pretty much appear to be a consistent mud shade, 
right?  Well, I was watching one documentary about these statutes (I 
admit it, the things fascinate me), and apparently they used to be 
painted incredibly colourfully but the paint didn't survive time as 
well as the terracotta.  There are only traces of the paint left, not 
enough that would show up on camera, so a German (or at least I think 
it was German) museum recreated one of the statues and then using the 
traces of paint found on it, painted as it would have been when it 
was buried and put it on display.  Most people are so blown away by 
the garishness of the colours they have difficulty believing that is 
what it would have looked like.  So after my long tangent...don't 
write off colours for the peasant kinds, because if those statues 
were anything to go by, apparently there wasn't a colour they didn't 
like in any combination.  LOL!  Just about enough to make your eyes 
bleed - as bad as the Greeks!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 08:18 PM 12/1/2012, you wrote:

...or Tales of a Band Mom.

This year's winter percussion piece is Terra Cotta Warriors and 
first order of business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit 
(stationary instruments like xylophones, chimes, etc.)


What the heck did Chinese peasants wear in 3rd century BC?  Our band 
director is proposing simple wrap-style tunics (like short kimonos) 
and scrub pants torn below the knee -- both dyed in earthy 
colors.  Semi-accurate?  Horrible?  Are conical hats appropriate? 
--although I can see them getting knocked off.  I'm clueless, and 
can find neither image nor description.


Part II will be terracotta soldier costumes to be worn by very 
active teenagers with drums, but I need to deal with the peasants first.


Help?



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Re: [h-cost] artificial whalebone

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Oh, I hadn't thought of that!  Thanks!

Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:43 PM 11/16/2011, you wrote:

Have you tried weed-waker line? It comes in several sizes and is 
easy to cut and cheap.

Paula


 From: manordto...@stthomas.edu
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 17:59:53 +
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] artificial whalebone

 In a related project, I once took fairly stiff wire and wound really
 flexible wire around it in a tight spiral. It bent as I wanted, but
 didn't get weird. It was very narrow.

 On 11/16/11 5:01 AM, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg gilshal...@comcast.net
 wrote:

 Greetings,
 
 Has anyone had much luck cutting down the white plastic artificial
 whalebone, into much smaller pieces, say length-wise? I've tried
 soaking it in boiling water first to try and soften it up, I tried
 using a brand new exacto knife, scissors, and all I got was a mess
 and sore hands. I'm trying to create doll-sized (22) boning from
 the full sized piece since I can't seem to find anything that would
 make good doll boning in and of itself. If anyone has suggestions, I
 would love to hear them!
 
 Cheers,
 Danielle
 
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Re: [h-cost] artificial whalebone

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Oh, that sounds like the perfect width  I will have to look into 
those too!  It sounds like I need to take a trip to the hardware 
store.  Thank you!!!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:47 PM 11/16/2011, you wrote:
1/8 wide zip ties, though they only come in short lengths. Long 
enough for corsetry, though (yeah, been there, done that).



Claudine

Greetings,

Has anyone had much luck cutting down the white plastic artificial 
whalebone, into much smaller pieces, say length-wise?  I've tried 
soaking it in boiling water first to try and soften it up, I tried 
using a brand new exacto knife, scissors, and all I got was a mess 
and sore hands.  I'm trying to create doll-sized (22) boning from 
the full sized piece since I can't seem to find anything that would 
make good doll boning in and of itself.  If anyone has suggestions, 
I would love to hear them!


Cheers,
Danielle


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Re: [h-cost] artificial whalebone

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Thanks, that is worth trying too.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:59 AM 11/16/2011, you wrote:

In a related project, I once took fairly stiff wire and wound really
flexible wire around it in a tight spiral.  It bent as I wanted, but
didn't get weird.  It was very narrow.

On 11/16/11 5:01 AM, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg gilshal...@comcast.net
wrote:

Greetings,

Has anyone had much luck cutting down the white plastic artificial
whalebone, into much smaller pieces, say length-wise?  I've tried
soaking it in boiling water first to try and soften it up, I tried
using a brand new exacto knife, scissors, and all I got was a mess
and sore hands.  I'm trying to create doll-sized (22) boning from
the full sized piece since I can't seem to find anything that would
make good doll boning in and of itself.  If anyone has suggestions, I
would love to hear them!

Cheers,
Danielle


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[h-cost] artificial whalebone

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

Has anyone had much luck cutting down the white plastic artificial 
whalebone, into much smaller pieces, say length-wise?  I've tried 
soaking it in boiling water first to try and soften it up, I tried 
using a brand new exacto knife, scissors, and all I got was a mess 
and sore hands.  I'm trying to create doll-sized (22) boning from 
the full sized piece since I can't seem to find anything that would 
make good doll boning in and of itself.  If anyone has suggestions, I 
would love to hear them!


Cheers,
Danielle

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Re: [h-cost] men's hat forms

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

You could always try the two Yahoogroups that are more or less 
associated with H-Costume, and used for selling costumes, fabric, 
books, etc... and start there.  They are 
http://groups.yahoo.com//group/swapsell/swapsell and 
http://groups.yahoo.com//group/costumetrader/costumetrader or 
there might be some millinery associated group you could check out, 
if you don't wish to go the ebay route.  If they were women's I would 
be interested myself.  Sorry.  Good luck.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:32 AM 11/14/2011, you wrote:

I have two men's hat felting forms (antique) designed to make bowler or
derby style hats. Both sets have the crown and brim pieces. Brief research
indicates that this style of hat started in 1850. I'm interested in selling
these and would like recommendations - if you know a web site or forum where
people would be interested in this type of thing I'd rather start there than
just putting them on ebay.

Thanks
Denise
Iowa
lando...@netins.net

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Re: [h-cost] Wig building (Previously: 1880s hairstyles)

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi Cin,

One place that might not seem obvious but you might want to try some 
of the CosPlay wig sites, or sites I found while looking for CosPlay 
stuff.  Some of their wig fibers are quite high quality and are meant 
to be dyed.  Others make custom wigs, and generally you never know 
what you will find.  You can easily luck out.  I managed to find a 
really decent looking 18th c. looking women's one - much better than 
any of the regular sites on one, for example.  Here are a few that 
I've found.  Keep in mind I've never purchased anything from any of 
them so can't vouch for any of them personally:


http://www.pettingzoowigs.com/wigs.html
http://www.mhrw.com/catalog.html  - this one has the wig lace
http://www.wilshirewigs.com/
http://www.wigsunlimited.com/wigsupplies.html
http://www.makeup-fx.com/Perukeng.html - wigmaking - including beard/mustache
http://www.alconeco.com/Products/Character/Wig-Making-Supplies
http://fashion-beauty.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGYStore_Code=HICategory_Code=WMSZ

I hope these help! :-)

Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:21 PM 10/24/2011, you wrote:

Where does on buy wig lace in SIlicon Valley?  I have to make a
young gent's beard wig for myself.  (I have a male role in a show.)
One of the other costumers has handed me some wig crepe  given some
very general instructions.  Here I am, begging for further
instruction... even a website or video tutorial.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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Re: [h-cost] Has anyone here beaded garments with real stones

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

HI Fran,

You've entered the fun and exciting world of gems and jewellery (I'm 
a Canadian so we spell it that way too ;-)).  Tig here is right but 
then we also can get into discussions of different terminology used - 
for example, semi-precious can be a bit of a hot button with a lot 
of people, actually.  But, either way, if you are going to try sewing 
with your citrine drops (which sound quite lovely), you need to use a 
sturdy man-made thread or something like Beadalon which has a 
metal fibre core, which any rough edges cannot wear through.  I have 
never tried wire-wrapping personally, or wire-based jewellery but I 
know that many bead/craft shops do offer classes in the basics or you 
can pick up a book.  Either way, have fun!  Also, I wouldn't write of 
soldered jewellery yet.  It is easier than you think and a lot of 
fun.  It also isn't as hazardous as you think either because we don't 
use lead solder you find at the hardware store, since you are using 
specific jeweller's solders.  You can probably find basic classes in 
that as well.  I suggest you try one before you write it 
off.  :-)  Anyway, these are just my opinions and suggestions as 
jeweller and a gemmologist, either way good luck and enjoy.


Cheers,
Danielle, FGA, FCGmA

At 10:15 PM 10/3/2011, you wrote:


Claudine wrote -

 I have not done what you're describing, but I just checked with a friend
 who is a jewelry maker. She says the stones would survive dry cleaning,
 but the color may change. She said she wouldn't risk it.

Claudine's jeweller friend has the right of it.

As a gemmologist, jewellery valuer (yes that's how we spell these words
here in Australia!) and jeweller, I can only back her up all the way.

It has been suggested by someone else that 'dye' may run and ruin the
garmet.  This isn't true I'm afraid.  Citrine wouldn't be dyed.  However
much citrine available today is actually amethyst that has been heat
treated.  They are both quartz and the colour can be easily altered
through heat treatment.  However that heat is pretty high so it comes
down to what heat the cleaning process involves.  Some quartz (eg green
quartz) is largely dyed but that is through using a high pressure/heat
process and it shouldn't leak out (unless the chemicals have some
effect).

I suspect Claudine's friend is mostly worried about what chemicals the
dry cleaner may use, as they may also change the colour and surface
texture.  There is a very good chance that strong chemicals, even if
safe to textiles, may alter the surface of the citrine.  Best not to
risk it.

Someone else has said 'they are stones after all'.  Sorry to be blunt
but stones are not stones.  This is like saying all oils are the same,
or all fabrics.  Would you cook with engine oil or use hessian where
silk is preferred? Gemmology takes time to learn and the more you study
the more you realise how different all gemstones and gem materials (a
separate category including pearls, amber and other non-mineral
substances) are from each other.  There has been an ongoing discussion
about the terminology of 'sacques'.  I could launch into one here about
'stones', 'rocks', 'gems' etc but I suspect you'd all get bored very
quickly!!! :)  Eg Lapis Lazuli is a 'rock' not a 'gemstone'.  'Garnet'
is a 'gemstone' - semiprecious and comes in every colour, not only red
(of which there are 3 distinct chemical groups and 'reds')  See what I
mean!  LoL.

Another person suggested that they be applied to something like a collar
or cuffs, and that is possibly the BEST bit of advice so far!  Why not
make it an easily removable part of the outfit such as tie on sleeves?
Handwashing won't affect the citrine either.

Cheers,

~ Tig (OL)


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Re: [h-cost] Pockets...

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi Cynthia,

I'm sorry but I'm having memory issues these days.  My meds are 
really making merry hell with it.   I do know that this tidbit has 
come up on this list before, so rather than depending a memory that 
better resembles swiss cheese at the moment, you would better off 
searching the archives.  I do know that this is a huge undertaking 
but I'm not sure what else to suggest.  It is driving me nuts because 
I do know it is Anne Boleyn, and it was a Court Document - and it was 
one that costumers normally dig into...  I feel like it is on the tip 
of my tongue sort of thing...  Spanish Ambassadorial letters?   Hmmm, 
I will keep thinking about it but I'm sorry I can't be more help at 
the moment.  I'll ask my apprentice and see if she remembers, I seem 
to remember talking to her about it.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:56 PM 9/20/2011, you wrote:

Danielle,
This is very cool.  Did you have anymore stray thoughts about where
you might have seen or read this?  For many of us early sorts,
pockets can be a mild obsession.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com



On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 12:26 AM, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg
gilshal...@comcast.net wrote:
 Well, they were in use in the 16th century, I can't remember the exact
 reference off the top of my head but there is a court mention of 
Anne Boleyn

 using pockets but it is the only one I know of, of women in England using
 them that early.  Might have been part of her trial?  Sorry, my memory is
 going.

 Cheers,
 Danielle


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Re: [h-cost] Pockets...

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Well, they were in use in the 16th century, I can't remember the 
exact reference off the top of my head but there is a court mention 
of Anne Boleyn using pockets but it is the only one I know of, of 
women in England using them that early.  Might have been part of her 
trial?  Sorry, my memory is going.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:41 PM 9/15/2011, you wrote:

Hi
When did the tie on pockets come into use? i know they are 18th
century, but am drawing a blank on how early they  where worn. Or
perhaps the question should be when did the pouch get replaced by the
pair of pockets, worn under the 'dress'?
Thanks
Carol


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Re: [h-cost] Miss Universe 2011 national costumes

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

No, I think some of these ladies must earn extra money in the 
gentlemen's clubs where they are de rigeur.  Either that or the 
designers all work for said clubs and forgot to swap out the footwear...


I've only started to look at the images since my computer is running 
at glacial speed tonight and so its taken 45 minutes to get as far as 
Miss Curacao, and I was wondering if the costume designers could be 
charged with crimes against human decency  I mean to produce Miss 
Curacao's atrocity, they must have OD'd on cocktails mixed with lots 
of Blue Curacao or something equally ghastly... and frankly as a 
Canadian, Miss Canada's is downright offensive, and must be doubly so 
to one of members of the First Nations.  shudder  Some of the 
others are just plain weird.  I think I will leave it at that, others 
seem to be covering the details quite adequately.  Oh, I managed to 
get a couple more pictures.  The Czech Republic looks like a bizarre 
take-away box to me. LOL!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:14 AM 9/13/2011, you wrote:

So the new shoe fashion is kamikaze platforms?
They are already tall why add the height? Definitely a carnival or Vegas
feel. A lot of retro hair. What's with the white?

Albania - simple, yet elegant.
Angola - very theatrical.
Argentina - ?? prom?
Aruba, Bahamas, Brazil, Cayman Islands, St. Lucia, Trinidad  Tobago, Turks
 Caicos, Uruguay - carnival.
Australia - rendition of the Scarlet curtain gown but with granny's
patchwork quilt or rag rug.
Belgium - ?prom? or maybe a play on Belgium lace?
Bolivia - definitely carnival and a good one.
Botswana - looks like folkwear but the shovel is a bit much.
British Virgin Islands - ribbon trade
Canada - That is sooo wrong. Headdress is worn by the Assiniboine (women
of the nation wear it if they are chief) The bodice is hard to tell what it
is suppose to be but the tongue and teeth look like the bear (makes her look
like she has a poochy tummy) The skirt is suppose to be a teepee. The
crossed arms is a Hollywood stereotype. Even if she is of Indigenous decent
the costume is still all around tacky.
Chile - statement more then folkwear but nice creative design.
China - good folkwear.
Colombia - I've seen this from an old Hollywood movie. Nice design.
Costa Rica - except for the platforms, really nice design.
Croatia - What?? The hair says sock hop but the dress says be my
valentine
Curacao - carnival and not quite right.
Cyprus - Nice modern take on the folkwear.
Czech Republic - Beam me up Scotty?
Denmark - The skirt looks crooked because of the way she is posed. They
should have put more into it as it looks to much like a wedding dress for a
themed wedding. To my understanding 1700s reenactments are popular in
Denmark so I can see why the dress style.
Dominican republic, Great Britain, Sweden, U.S. Virgin Islands, Ukraine -
??
Ecuador - Impressive. carnival style but natural tones.
Egypt - Hollywood strikes again but I can think of worse Hollywood costumes
to mimic. Should have gone for color instead of the white.
El Salvador - I'm not sure what to say on this.
Estonia - Off the rack. nice that she is wearing flats but it just doesn't
make sense with the outfit.
Finland - Evening dress. possibly association to long nights and winters?
France - High School play of Marie Annetoinette? Come on folks, this is Miss
Universe! There should be better quality then this even for a folk costume.
Germany - Not a nice modern take of folkwear. Looks like something from
Frederick's of Hollywood cataloged.
Ghana - Nice but could pass for evening wear.
Greece - lovely but with the do she looks like an actress from some of those
old Italian movies.
Guam - is cute.
Guatemala - Very good take on folkwear.
Guyana - carnivalish but looks to be a modern take on folkwear.
Haiti - nice modern take on folkwear.
Honduras - Looks like something from the Sports Illustrated swimsuit
edition.
Hungary - Interesting modern take on folkwear. Though the hat makes it look
like she has cat ears. :)
Indonesia - traditional.
Ireland - modern Celtic goddess look? Theatrical. My first thought was ,
cool use of cds. It's nice but like many of the costumes here, it leaves a
person wondering what it represents.
Israel - prom?
Italy - with all their fashion sense they came up with this? Looks like
lingerie. Really? they took the colors of their flag and made a red dress,
added a green fan with white and a bit of white on the dress with
pearls...REALLY?
Jamaica, Venezuela, Puerto Rico - again, carnival.
Japan - Japanese Anima(sp?)
Kazakhstan - what is with the wedding dresses for folkwear? Nice modern take
though.
Georgia, Korea, Kosovo, Lebanon, Malaysia, Nigeria, New Zealand, Panama,
Peru, Portugal, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam - interesting and impressive
modern take on folkwear.
Mauritius - lace and feathers
Mexico - rummage sale at the costume shop. Actually it is one of the better
attempts at symbols to represent the country.

Re: [h-cost] least favorite hat

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Yes, I have to concur, I forgot to mention that one.  LOL!  I can't 
decide if it was an alien trying to eat her head, or coming out of 
her head.  Either that, or she decided she wanted to pay tribute 
to/compete with the trees in the Abbey  snicker  The colour 
didn't do her any favours either, the grandmothers at my husband's 
brother's wedding wore colours like that, only with more sequins and 
beads...(which probably couldn't have made it any worse).


Cheers,
Danielle

At 06:07 PM 4/29/2011, you wrote:

Well then. My least favorite hat, of the ones I was able to see well,
was HRH Beatrice's-- I think! The one wearing pink, with the odd
vertical sculpture on it.  Yeesh. You'd think she'd have noticed it
wasn't flattering. Or perhaps they didn't give her a 360 mirror.

Feathers, I can live with. But that thing was just plain odd. Her blue
sister's hat was simply unfortunate; but the pink one was an oddity.

== Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=

Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

http://3toad.blogspot.com/


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Re: [h-cost] pouting about R. Wedding coverage

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

I started watching the beginning of the coverage live at 2 am 
myself.  ;-)  I hadn't realized there wouldn't be any commercials for 
bathroom breaks etc... which was both good and bad since they finally 
got onto the balcony at 7:26 am. LOL!  I usually dashed out when they 
started talking to people in the crowd.  I thought her dress was very 
Grace Kelly, myself.  I *loved* Pippa's dress, with the draped 
neckline, it is just so '30s!  Although, I could just scream 
since I'm in the process of making a silk velvet blouse with that 
neckline (and slightly longer sleeves) and a few different gowns and 
outfits for my BJDs with it as well, and now everyone will think I 
was copying her!  Humpf!!!


Anyway, if you wish to see who is wearing what BBCAmerica is the 
answer.  There are some really cool hats (I thought the royal blue 
vertical seed pod thingy was neat), some truly frightful ones (TRH 
Princesses Beatrice  Eugenie come to mind... I mean a blue fez with 
a ratty feather duster on top?!), a bunch of those annoying 
fascinators, and the scandalous fact that the British Prime 
Minister's wife arrived without a hat at all!!!  (In case you don't 
know they are a must for ladies.)  She had just pinned a small 
jewel to the side of her head.


One of the things I found rather interesting, was one of the 
officiants, I can't remember which now (Bishop of London???) was 
wearing his new cloth of gold cope and boy was that thing bright and 
shiny!  If you read an historical mention of it, you sure get an idea 
of what a gaudy textile it was, once you see this thing!


Anyway, I don't want to give away too much for those who haven't seen 
it yet.  I'm finally off to bed. G


Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:20 AM 4/29/2011, you wrote:

BBC America is repeating the coverage now, people are still wandering
into the church..

I thought the dress was so retro, could have been worn by Queen
Elizabeth herself.  A style that has come and gone so many times--I
made almost identical dresses for a couple of my brides about 15 or so
years ago.  Maybe this will help break the fad for strapless gowns
which are too ubiquitous these days.

I've been enjoying the increased coverage of royal wedding gowns of
the past, it's nice to see some close up pictures of those.

Katy

On Fri, Apr 29, 2011 at 11:09 AM,  penn...@costumegallery.com wrote:
 CNN had live coverage since midnight EST.  I am in a hotel and we brought
 our VCR to tape it.  My husband woke up at 4 am panicked because he set the
 VCR up incorrectly.  Thank goodness he woke up to fix the problem.  I
 believe CNN is repeating it tonight.

 As for Kate's dress...I have seen several of this style wedding 
dresses from
 the 1940s.  I own one without the slit neckline.  I have one or 
two original
 1940s wedding photos with this style dress.  Fashion repeating 
itself AGAIN.


 Penny Ladnier, owner
 The Costume Gallery Websites
 www.costumegallery.com
 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history
 FaceBook:
 http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579

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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Re: [h-cost] Opinions on Manesse Codex diagonal stripes

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi Heather,

I don't get on here much these days but this caught my eye because I 
was pulling my hair out over it lately.  I have seen, a couple of 
manuscript images and I believe I might have at least one of them 
*somewhere* of weavers actually weaving the diagonal stripes.  But I 
will be damned if I can figure out where I have seen them.  I believe 
one was in a book of trades type manuscript, one might have turned 
up in one of Shelly Nordtorp-Madson slides that she showed us in 
class one day, and I'm sure one is one of my manuscripts or 
manuscript related books but I haven't been able to track any of them 
down yet.  The problem with collecting those sorts of things is you 
wind up with a lot of books.  Now I'm not saying that those are proof 
either way, but they open the door of possibility that it is fabric 
woven that way rather worn bias-cut.  Personally, I have trouble with 
the bias-cut garment theory as well purely on the garment evolution 
issue - what did it come from, and what did it become 
afterwards?  Just my two cents...  If I ever do turn up the pictures, 
I will send them to you!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:47 PM 10/20/2010, you wrote:
With the caveats that artistic representations aren't always 
intended to represent actual clothing construction, and that 
representations of clothing decoration are sometimes intended to 
convey symbolism rather than fabric structures, and that there are 
multiple ways to create any particular decorative effect in fabric ...


What are people's thoughts on the garments depicted in the early 
14th c. Manesse Codex that have diagonal striped designs?  Woven as 
diagonal stripes?  Print?  Woven as straight-grain stripes and cut 
on the bias?  Symbolic interpretation of armorial designs not 
intending to represent actual garments?  Some other option?


How is a given hypothesis affected by other stripe-like designs in 
the manuscript?  (Primarily horizontal stripes, but also chevron designs.)


Here's a link to an image showing a variety of these designs, just 
for reference.


I'm contemplating the plausibility of the bias cut hypothesis, but 
I'm failing to convince myself, given that the reasoning that would 
support it would also conclude that the diagonal-stripe and 
horizontal-stripe garments in the manuscript represent two entirely 
different ways of cutting garments that are otherwise identical in depiction.


Heather
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Re: [h-cost] Who is going?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

I am!  We're leaving in a couple of hours.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 03:05 AM 5/6/2010, you wrote:
Who from h-costume is going to Costume Con?  I will be there 
Friday-Sunday.  Looking forward to a great time!

Penny Ladnier


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Re: [h-cost] Who is going?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

He's my best friend and evil twin.  I'll print this out and bring it with me.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:58 PM 5/6/2010, you wrote:

Does anyone on this list know Teddy from England?  He and Tom are staying
with Karen Bergquist in Chicago.  He said they are going to CC and should be
there mid-week.  I REALLY need to get him to call me.  I plan to call the
event hotel and leave a message there but if anyone on this list is going to
see him, please let me know.  My phone numbers are 757 427-9282 or cell 757
647-1498.  Thanks a bunch.
Anne


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Re: [h-cost] PhD programs in costume history

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Congratulations Emma, what an exciting place to be.  I would love to 
read your thesis.  Is it available via interlibrary loan?  Anyway, I 
know that the University of Minnesota has a program since I will 
probably wind up in it myself when I can get back to finishing my 
PhD.  Good luck finding a school and don't let *anyone* pressure into 
starting your PhD before you're ready or you will burn-out faster 
than you can blink!  Mind you, on the other hand, if you want to go 
to school now, don't wait if you don't have to.  Just my two cents worth.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 01:19 PM 8/16/2009, you wrote:
I just defended my Master's thesis (on metal corsets-whee!) and 
during my defense, my committee challanged my idea that I should 
wait while my husband gets his PhD. They were all of the opinion 
that I need to get a PhD in costume history RIGHT NOW and I need to teach.


So rather than my earlier plan of taking the next several years off 
before continuing my education, I'm starting to look at grad schools 
*now,* and I'm looking at costume history rather than museum studies.


I'm not convinced that this is the route I want to take, but I'm 
willing to look.


Do you, the minds of h-cost, with experience that spans both decades 
and the globe, have any recommendations?


Are there schools you wished you knew about when you were younger? 
Schools friends or relatives have attended?  Programs that are the 
stuff of fantasy (or, alternately, the stuff of nightmares, so I 
know what to avoid...)?


I am interested in the study of costume and/or textile history, not 
necessarily theatre costuming (though I'm not opposed, if there's a 
spectacular program).



Completely at a loss of what to do, now that the thesis is done,

Emma


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Re: [h-cost] Use of Buttons, was Regency Low stomacher

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

There is a gorgeous green silk striped spencer that is (or was) on 
display in the Museum of London that is clearly edge to edge 
fastened, and also has buttons at the wrists.  I have photos if needed.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:36 AM 8/1/2009, you wrote:


In a message dated 8/1/2009 9:12:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
melaniewil...@dragonflight.co.uk writes:

Given  the button front is established in this style, buttons seem a
potential  solution, hooks are another

Invisible hooks on the inside is certainly an option.

And just one more thing on the topic of spencers and edge to edge
fastenings--we had this discussion on the 1812Civilian list a couple 
of months  ago.

 Barry and Judy McPherson, who have seen many extant garments in  English,
Scottish, and Canadian collections, agree that the edge to edge seems  most
common.

I agree that we all make compromises--in fact, Sally Queen put together a
great diagram for, I think, AASLH, a while back that has a continuum for
authenticity, ending in period correct bad breath and rotting teeth (I
understand that the Empress Josephine had notoriously bad teeth, so 
she  perfected

a closed-lip smile.  And I have heard of an 18th c. reenactor who  blacks
out some teeth.)

Good for you for reducing your stash.  I am only now emerging from my  book
project and thinking about sewing again.

Ann Wass


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Re: [h-cost] Ball jointed dolls

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

At 08:51 PM 3/20/2008, you wrote:

--- Danielle Nunn-Weinberg [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  I would be very curious to know how many of us on
  the list are now into BJDs.
 
  Danielle

I am currently clothing one of my bjds in 1880s style
clothing skin-out.  Her figure is reasonable for the
period, though a little flat chested.

Better than my own figure works, though I also am
making 1880s for me.  I have an 1830s figure.

What I'll do to dance. :)

Ann in CT

I recognize your name from DoA. :-)  I'm planning on getting back to 
the 1780s red  white striped polonaise from the Kyoto Costume 
Institute (and book) for one of my BJDs (my Limhwa half-elf to be 
precise).  I have a red and white striped silk taffeta that is too 
narrow a stripe for me but, a perfect size for her.

I wish we had dance groups and the like out here in Minnesota but 
there isn't much besides the SCA.

Cheers,
Danielle (gilshallos on DoA)


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[h-cost] Re: Ball jointed dolls

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

I would be very curious to know how many of us on the list are now 
into BJDs.  How many of us got into them because of the possibilities 
for costuming them?  I know when I talked my husband into letting me 
get my first girl (a Limhwa half-elf) I swore it would be my only 
doll and I wanted her so that I could make her all the costumes I 
wanted to do but couldn't make for myself for various reasons.  One 
year later and I have four dolls, two floating heads (it was five 
until this past weekend - I just sold my Bobobie Sprite), and my 
husband Michael has his first doll on layaway.  My friend Heather 
doesn't call it dollycrack for nothing.  ;-)


However, back to costuming, they really are ideal for it, with the 
single drawback, of the bodies being non-malleable so that when 
making underpinnings such as stays, it can be difficult to create the 
correct the look even when using them.  Once I'm done my current 
sewing commitments, I get to go back to work on my 18th century stuff 
for my girls.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 06:54 PM 3/19/2008, you wrote:

Welcome to the club!
Do you know that they can be awfully addictive?
A friend of mine who also has ball jointed dolls send me a website 
from that friend of yours.

I told her that I knew you from this list.

I am still working on a 19th century dress and tomorrow I will order 
her wig with ringlets.

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dolls/BJD.html

My darkelf is from dollzone en my girl is from Luts http://www.eluts.com/
She is a senior delf and she is slightly more mature than other 
models. She poses beautifully.

They are wonderfull to take pictures from.
Oh i forgot Losboll it is a flooting head not sure if it is he or she.
I experiment on it to get better on face painting.
http://85.17.225.57/20251-20255/202519501-202519600/202519562_6_Guec.jpeg

Her you can probably vieuw some more pictures of them.
http://deredere.hyves.nl/

I love them With the ones I have I can change wigs, eyes and 
eyelashes even the face paint if I really want.


Yea totally addictive :-)


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Re: [h-cost] A bit OT doll bustle dress question for bonnet

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi Deredere!

Welcome to the wonderful world of BJDs!!!  Costuming for them is 
exactly why I got into them to. ;-)  I don't know much about that 
time period at all but I would think a hat, either a straw boater or 
a small hat perched on top of her head.   However, I freely admit 
that is a guess.  Have you found Den of Angels 
yet?  http://www.denofangels.com  If not, you will probably find it 
very helpful and enjoy it a lot.  I really envy you being able to get 
the Dark Elf Quinn!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 06:21 AM 1/7/2008, you wrote:

Hi,

It as been so long since I was able to make a historic costume.
Not much time anymore so now I make them in smaller size :-) .

It is for a doll that hopefully will arrive soon from Korea.

I am making her a beautiful sheer cotton bustle dress.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dolls/BJD.html

I was wondering what would be worn wit it?
A nice bonnet or a hat?

Greetings,
  Deredere


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[h-cost] Teddy and calling people in the San Francisco area...

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

I'm passing on a message for Teddy.  There those of you who might 
remember him.  Anyway, he and his partner Tom will be going to 
Costume Con.  They would like to spend about three weeks in 
California in the SF area around Costume Con and thought that in 
case anyone on there remembers me and wants to meet up or whatever 
(or has any suggestions for reasonably inexpensive accommodation!!!) 
:-)  So, if you feel like answering this call please email Teddy 
directly (the sooner, the better) at Teddy at mdx.ac.uk  Thanks everyone!


Cheers,
Danielle

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RE: [h-cost]Night caps

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

I don't know exactly when they started being worn but there is a 
famous portrait miniature of Henry VIII's illegitimate son Henry 
Fitzroy wearing one.  Oh, now that I think of it, I seem to remember 
a number of 15th century French illuminations depicting people in bed 
wearing them, as well...  At that time they would have most likely 
been made of linen, but it is rather difficult to generalize about 
construction.  I seem to remember some of the extant ones I've seen 
in the VA being of a four panel construction, tapering to a point at 
the crown.if that makes any sense.  I don't remember seeing any 
ties but then I wasn't looking for any.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:58 AM 11/8/2007, you wrote:


Here's a suitably esoteric question for this group.  Night caps.  As in,
Mama in her kerchief and I in my cap
 had just settled down for a long winter's nap

When were they worn?  What were they made of ?  How were they 
contructed?  How did they stay on?


I'm assuming they may have been worn any time that fires were the 
only source of home heating, but I have only seen images from late 
1800's and early 1900's.  I'd like to make some.

Anyone know?

Laurie


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Re: [h-cost] OT: Book Signing

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Congrats Lorina!   I really wish I could be there for it.  :-)

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:30 AM 11/8/2007, you wrote:

For those of you in the Barrie, Ontario region, come join me at Chapters
this Saturday, November 10, at 76 Barrie View Drive, 1:00 to 3:00 p.m. I'll
be signing copies of my cookbook, Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, and my new
historical fiction, Shadow Song.



Regards,

Lorina Stephens


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RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

IIRC, it is the one that Janet Arnold talks about in the volume of 
Patterns of Fashion that covers the 18th century.  She describes it 
as a travelling costume I believe.  Someone's whose book is handy 
will have to confirm it for me however, since my books are still in boxes.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:41 AM 10/23/2007, you wrote:

Bjarne,
What season was this dress worn?
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=57
Is it for a special occasion?

De

-Original Message-

On Oct 22, 2007, at 12:50 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

 For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are
 on wiev on the danish costume museum.
 http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
 Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of
 the costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear
 besides the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern
 cuts and also zoom in

 Have fun!

 Bjarne


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[h-cost] OT: silks for sale NEW Elizabethan corset

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

Please forgive this commercial post.  I've already posted this to the 
YahooGroups but for those of you who aren't members and might be 
interested... I'm moving and clearing out my fabric stash.  I've just 
added a bunch of silks to the page... 
http://www.cyberiosity.com/FabricSale/Default.html


Please email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you are interested in 
any of these fabrics.  I apologize in advance - none of the gowns 
currently showing on the garb page are available, however there will 
be a silk and linen corset boned with reeds going up on that page 
tomorrow, as well as a wool cloak.  If anyone is interested in the 
corset and wants photos before tomorrow I can easily email them.  It 
is a brand new corset, never worn (the purchaser reneged so I'm 
dropping the price to sell) and is silk, linen and boned with reeds.


Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg 


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Re: [h-cost] Looking for 15th century replica frame-opening style purse

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Thank you, that is it exactly!  I don't know the name for it either, 
so I was trying to describe as bet I could.  From what I've seen of 
them, not having looked at any closely.  It has to have a lid because 
my husband loses everything.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:37 AM 5/17/2007, you wrote:

Is this what you're looking for, but with a lid?
http://www.answers.com/topic/thomas-howard-4th-duke-of-norfolk-02-jpg

I call mine a ring pouch but I have no idea what
it's right name is.

MaggiRos

--- Danielle Nunn-Weinberg [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Greetings,

 I'm looking for a 15th century replica frame-opening
 style purse.  It
 has a metal circular opening (with a hinged lid)
 that the leather
 pouch hangs from, in case you don't know what I mean
 by frame.


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Re: [h-cost] Looking for 15th century replica frame-openingstyle purse

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Thank you!  I will check him out.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:00 PM 5/17/2007, you wrote:

If you can't find what you want commercially, I highly recommend this fellow.
http://www.hr-replikate.de/englisch/index.htmlhttp://www.hr-replikate.de/englisch/index.html
He does wonderful work, and is reasonable.


Saragrace

  - Original Message - From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 9:15 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 15th century replica frame-opening 
style purse

  
  
  Greetings,
  
  I'm looking for a 15th century replica frame-opening style
  purse.  It has a metal circular opening (with a hinged lid) that
  the leather pouch hangs from, in case you don't know what I mean by
  frame.  I'm not sure what the actual name of that type of purse
  would be. Does anyone know where I can purchase such an item?  I
  have yet to turn up a merchant who sells them.  Any help would 
be appreciated.

  
  Cheers,
  Danielle


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[h-cost] Looking for 15th century replica frame-opening style purse

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

I'm looking for a 15th century replica frame-opening style purse.  It 
has a metal circular opening (with a hinged lid) that the leather 
pouch hangs from, in case you don't know what I mean by frame.  I'm 
not sure what the actual name of that type of purse would be. Does 
anyone know where I can purchase such an item?  I have yet to turn up 
a merchant who sells them.  Any help would be appreciated.


Cheers,
Danielle

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Re: [h-cost] Looking for 15th century replica frame-opening style purse

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi Bjarne,

Thanks.  They aren't quite what I'm looking for.  I have seen people 
walking around events wearing the type of purse I'm looking for so I 
know that someone has made them, I'm just not sure who.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 03:14 AM 5/17/2007, you wrote:

Hi Danielle,
I dont think you will find a replica 15th century one, but you can 
get different styles today:

http://www.countrybumpkin.com.au/index.php?cPath=23_163
These are Australian, but i am sure others carries them two.

Bjarne
- Original Message - From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 15th century replica frame-opening style purse



Greetings,

I'm looking for a 15th century replica frame-opening style 
purse.  It has a metal circular opening (with a hinged lid) that 
the leather pouch hangs from, in case you don't know what I mean by 
frame.  I'm not sure what the actual name of that type of purse 
would be. Does anyone know where I can purchase such an item?  I 
have yet to turn up a merchant who sells them.  Any help would be appreciated.


Cheers,
Danielle


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[h-cost] OT silk kirtle for sale

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

I realize I'm being commercial again but I have a 16th century cream 
and gold silk brocade kirtle, trimmed with real pearls, for sale on 
ebay.  It is based on the Eleanora of Toledo burial gown in Janet 
Arnold's Patterns of Fashion.  It is a fairly versatile style and 
could work for either Tudor or Elizabethan. I made this kirtle to be 
worn under my laurelling gown and I only wore it for an hour at 
most.  I am selling it because it no longer fits, and I would like to 
see it appreciated rather than remaining in a closet forever.


I would love for you to check it out at:
http://tinyurl.com/2bhz2qhttp://tinyurl.com/2bhz2q

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tudor-Elizabethan-Silk-Gown-Kirtle-SCA-Ren-Faire_W0QQitemZ250108567451QQihZ015QQcategoryZ125473QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemhttp://cgi.ebay.com/Tudor-Elizabethan-Silk-Gown-Kirtle-SCA-Ren-Faire_W0QQitemZ250108567451QQihZ015QQcategoryZ125473QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If for some reason neither link work, it is item #250108567451.  I 
would be happy to answer any questions you have about it, please 
email me at mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]


Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg  
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Re: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

In the wills and inventories I work with the only reference to any 
sort of holder or container for thread has been 4 bowttes of blacke 
thred, which I took to be bolt (from the 1543 will of the porter of 
of the King's Wardrobe).  Otherwise they just specify colour or 
colour and amount of thread, and sometimes fiber if it is 
silk.  Yarns and wools they tend to get more descriptive 
about.  Thread is mentioned extremely rarely, aside from the above 
exception, I have only found it in Drapers or Tailor's wills and 
inventories.  Although, I'm sure it would also turn up in other 
similar trades such as silkwomen, I just haven't gathered any of 
their probate documents yet.


Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 01:27 PM 4/23/2007, you wrote:

OK, here's the question:

I work at a Renn Faire, and would like to be able to do some handsewing,
most likely linen shirts for my child. I don't want to have my plastic
spools of thread flashing about! How did Elizabethans work with thread? Was
it wound on spools (wooden, I assume)? Was it somehow put into hanks (like
modern-day floss)? How can I make my thread look right?

***
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire

My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
***


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Re: [h-cost] boning and steel

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Canadians, (Torontonians in particular) have another option as well 
in MacDonald Faber http://macdonaldfaber.com/ a tailoring supply 
house.  They also have some millinery supplies as well.  Before I had 
moved to the States, I found their prices better than 
Farthingale's.  Just my opinion.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:08 AM 4/8/2007, you wrote:
for the canadians out there, Farthingales.on.ca 
http://farthingales.ca is definetely your best choice. They are 
incredibly well stocked, sell by the piece or by the metre, and sell 
other stuff like busks, fabric and lacing too.

K of indigolily.ca


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[h-cost] OT - costume textile books for sale

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

I have three costume and textile related books for sale, all are brand new.

Dressing Renaissance Florence by Carole Collier Frick.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dressing-Renaissance-Florence-Carole-Collier-Frick-SCA_W0QQitemZ250101402953QQihZ015QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://tinyurl.com/3a5c7f

Ancient and Medieval Textiles: Studies in Honour of Donald King by 
Lisa Monnas and Hero Granger-Taylor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ancient-and-Medieval-Textiles-Monnas-Granger-Taylor-SCA_W0QQitemZ250101401496QQihZ015QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://tinyurl.com/33k8tl

Western European Illuminated Manuscripts by Tamara Voronova and 
Andrei Sterligov the 2003 British edition.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Western-European-Illuminated-Manuscripts-by-Voronova-03_W0QQitemZ250101405002QQihZ015QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://tinyurl.com/2o7pj7

If you have any questions, please feel free to email me at 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] - thanks for your patience. :-)


Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg

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Re: [h-cost] A request was: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 462

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

At 12:09 AM 6/5/2006, you wrote:

For those on digest, please place something in the subject line other then
Digest, Vol #, Issue### so that I may know what the subject is about. It is
easier for my poor feeble mind to remember New Portrait or Hosen
question then Vol. #, Issue ###

Thank you,
De


I second that request.  With over 1000 emails in my H-Costume box, I 
can't keep up and delete all Digest headings on principle - I don't 
have time to sift through the chaff.


Cheers,
Danielle. 


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Re: [h-cost] Art Hysteria

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

On the same level is this site:
http://www.sirbacon.org/toc.html

Which claims that Sir Francis Bacon is Shakespeare and the 
illegitimate son of Queen Elizabeth suggesting this painting is of 
her pregnant:

http://www.sirbacon.org/slides_html/sld006.htm

Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:55 PM 3/17/2006, you wrote:
Just for fun--here's an analysis of a copy of Holbein's sketch of 
Thomas More's Family:

http://www.holbeinartworks.org/bfourstmandtpitt.htm
Anyone who makes it all the way through gets a cookie!

-E House


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Re: [h-cost] Glove pic

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Ah ha, Suzi, you've got it!  It is Henry Wriothesley, the third Earl 
of Southampton.  You can find his portrait in the portrait section of 
the  http://www.boughtonhouse.org.uk/ page or I think this will take 
you directly there:

http://www.boughtonhouse.org.uk/htm/gallery2/paintings/earlofsoton.htm
An interesting piece of trivia about this portrait...it is supposedly 
the first English portrait painted with a cat in it.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 05:42 PM 3/14/2006, you wrote:

At 23:01 14/03/2006, you wrote:

That is very sheek! :-)
What would you use for the small bows?
I would recomend you to use silk ribbon of the kind used for ribbon 
work, its so soft and delicate and would make very nice bows.


Bjarne

- Original Message - From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume List h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 9:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Glove pic



Okay, I have everything fixed. This is the drawing I
was talking about:

http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/hand.jpg

Look familiar to anyone?



This looks like a redrawing from a painting of someone who was 
imprisoned in the Tower of London, and was painted with a cat. I 
copied these gloves for the Tower some years ago. I will look out 
the research and post as soon as I can.


Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] Equestrian costuming other period tack

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi Susan,

I've only stumbled across this post by accident while deleting this 
thread... (not much of a rider being deathly allergic to animals)...


Anyway, I've seen an extant 16th c. English sidesaddle (Shakespeare's 
Birthplace Museum) so I know they existed before 1800, and it is one 
of the oddest looking things I've seen.  I wasn't allowed to take 
photos there and there weren't any postcards of it (unfortunately) 
but if memory serves me it was sea-green leather thing (however, I 
could be misremembering and it might have been more blue than that) 
with silver braid in chevron-pattern or stripes.  It was basically 
perfectly flat, oval shape on top with the pommel sticking up like a 
monolith at the center front.  There wasn't much else too it, beside 
a rather normal looking saddle understructure - it was like instead 
of having a normal saddle seat they filled that area in and stuck a 
plate on top of it.  It looked incredibly uncomfortable to sit on, 
and I would imagine it would cut of the circulation to your legs in 
no time at all.


IIRC, there is a drawing of a woman using a contraption to sit 
sideways on a horse in Ruth Matilda Anderson's Hispanic Costume: 
1480 - 1530 as well.


I found it interesting that Queen Elizabeth's saddle at Warwick 
Castle is a normal astride saddle, if rather ornamented.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:33 AM 3/8/2006, you wrote:

Thanks, Melusine.

From what I've learned, so far, riding clothes were not very 
different from regular clothes until rather recently.  Sidesaddles 
are also a recent invention.  I've heard that sidesaddles, as we 
understand the term, did not exist prior to about 1800.  I don't 
know if that is true.


snip


Susan


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Re: [h-cost] what do renaissance seamen look like?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Well, if you're interested in the middle of the 16th century, we have 
a bit of an idea of what was worn on the Mary Rose, which sank in 
1545.  There were a number of leather jerkins found, as well as some 
wool garment fragments, some wool flat caps, leather shoes... that 
sort of thing.  The info shouldn't be too hard to track down if you 
look up the Mary Rose.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 05:13 PM 3/8/2006, you wrote:

Hello All,

The topic of Pirates at Renaissance events has been breached on 
another list, and it has me wondering...


What would pirates or privateers of the English Renaissance looked like?

I know what images of George Clifford, the privateering Earl looks 
like. I know what images of Raleigh, and Drake are like, but what 
would everyday privateers, pirates, or even basic seamen look like 
during the Elizabethan era?


Thanks,

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

Lady of the Wardrobe for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
 (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)


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[h-cost] OT: More fabric for sale

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings

I know I'm being naughty posting another commercial message but I do 
have another bunch of fabric to clear out.  They are on the same 
webpage that my long-suffering husband has done up for me.  If you're 
at all interested in any of it, please contact me at dannw at 
mn.rr.com and it is on a first come, first claim basis!


http://www.cyberiosity.com/FabricSale/Default.html

Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg

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[h-cost] a good book deal...16th c. buffs

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

While I'm being commercial, I thought I would point out this good 
deal I have found, this time I have no affiliation. : 
)  http://www.labyrinthbooks.com/  has a copy of David Starkey's Six 
Wives: The Queens of Henry VIII for $7.98
http://www.labyrinthbooks.com/all_detail.aspx?isbn=069401043X  I 
thought some of you might be interested.


Cheers,
Danielle

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Re: [h-cost] OT: More fabric for sale

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi Susan,

The 5 1/2 yard piece is $75 and the 1 1/2 yard piece is $20.  Thank 
you for your interest.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 05:33 AM 3/4/2006, you wrote:
I would like to know what you are asking for the 2 pieces of royal 
blue duchesse satin.


Thanks,
Susan

- Original Message - From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 5:04 AM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: More fabric for sale



Greetings

I know I'm being naughty posting another commercial message but I 
do have another bunch of fabric to clear out.  They are on the same 
webpage that my long-suffering husband has done up for me.  If 
you're at all interested in any of it, please contact me at dannw 
at mn.rr.com and it is on a first come, first claim basis!


http://www.cyberiosity.com/FabricSale/Default.html

Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg


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Re: [h-cost] Effigy Corset

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

I wore mine at Pennsic and was able to bend in every direction (I 
used only a single steel bone in the front for the large whalebone 
piece), as if I wasn't wearing it.  Admittedly, I did break some 
reeds at the waist doing this, but that didn't effect the comfort 
level or support.  In fact, the broken reeds affected things so 
minimally that I never did replace them before that corset got 
retired.  It was THE most comfortable thing I ever wore and was no 
trouble at all for potty breaks (provided it isn't too long in 
front), or at least no trouble than all those skirts etc... can possibly be.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 05:12 PM 2/12/2006, you wrote:

To those who have made this corset.  How is it for bending over and/or
twisting?  Can you bend over from the waist or do you do the Stewardess
kneel down, back straight?  How about potty breaks?


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness


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[h-cost] OT: Fabric for sale

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

I have a bunch of fabric for sale and I know not everyone on this 
list is on the Yahoogroups Swap  Sell or Costume Trader lists so I 
had my husband put them up on the web for me, more will be going up 
soon, including a couple of bonnets - one I made and the other a new 
Hatcrafters one that never got worn.  If you're at all interested 
in any of it, please contact me at dannw at mn.rr.com  Sorry for this 
rather commercial message...


http://www.cyberiosity.com/FabricSale/Default.html

Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Gestational Stays

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

I'm pretty sure you speaking of:
Hearn, Karen.  Marcus Gheeraerts II: Elizabethan Artist in 
Focus.  London: Tate Publishing, 2002.


It's a small book but the exhibition itself was only one room, 
IIRC.  Worth picking up if you can find it.


cheers,
Danielle

At 02:01 PM 1/26/2006, you wrote:
Thanks so much. I haven't seen that one before, and, yes, it surely 
does look like Eleanora.


In 1999 I went to London with some friends. While there we attended 
a Study Day at the VA. It was originally intended to be lead by 
Janet Arnold, but she had passed away the previous autumn. So it 
turned into a kind of rememberance of her.


Anyway, one of the curators from the Tate said that she was working 
gathering images of pregnant ladies for (I believe) a book. I'm 
pretty sure that it wasn't an exhibition.


Has anyone heard or seen anything about this?

Just curious.

And thanks again, Susan.

With regards,
kate

PS: Does anyone know if there is a publication date for Janet 
Arnold's book on underwear? That was one other thing that was 
discussed that day.

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RE: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Well, the only reference I have ever seen to women's menses or the 
items associated with it, was in Philip Stubbes Anatomy of Abuses 
(can't remember the page # off the top of my head) when he referred 
to someone as a menstrous clout.  I would hazard a guess that there 
might be other references hidden in odd places like Stubbes but they 
will take some dedicated digging.


It's funny, for me, this reference always started a word association 
game in my brain which ended with visions of a nappy/diaper like 
arrangement.  I freely admit that there is no basis in fact that I 
have been able to discover, for this idea but the word clout just 
always triggered a train of thought that at some point ran through 
breech clout and ended with the nappy/diaper image.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:23 AM 1/10/2006, you wrote:

This leads me to ask, and please do not take offense anyone... How did 16th
women deal with their monthly courses without underpants? Rags, I know, but
how were they held up? This part of clothing never seems to be dealt with,
though the Costume Society of America  (Dress) once had an article on 19th
C. inovations.

Dame Catriona MacDuff
Interested in 16th C. womens issues


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Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Well, I certainly am not in any position to debate the validity of 
the mini Ice Age theory but, I have spent the weekend at an event 
in an English castle and I can tell you they are still damp.  As for 
cold I still hold that it is a matter of perspective I grew up in 
Ottawa, Canada and to me living in Manchester, England for a year was 
delightfully warm!  On the other hand, I currently live in Minnesota 
and I'm constantly freezing. G  The one thing I did learn growing 
up with cold winters was lots of layers was the way to keep warm and 
if you look at historical clothing the first thing you encounter 
is...lots of layers.


Anyway, as other people of mentioned, menstruation and preparing for 
it is something we no almost nothing about in any historical 
period.  It is a topic that belongs solely to women, and very few 
women's voices survive the ages to reach us, and almost none on any 
personal topics.  This is knowledge that has always passed from 
mother to daughter, and is usually viewed as an unclean topic by 
men.  I think that Stubbes is a perfect example of that.  The only 
reference I have ever encountered and he is using it to insult 
someone by calling them a menstrous clout.  Either way, that does 
give us at least a bit of information that our mother's or 
grandmother's rags probably wasn't far off the mark.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 01:40 PM 1/10/2006, you wrote:
But Danielle, I was under the impression with reading and the 
History Channel, that during the Medieval and Renaissance periods 
Europe was going through what historians/scientists considered a 
mini Ice Age.  Plus, my finace' who was stationed in Europe has 
mentioned that when he was involved with Ren faires and the like 
that the castles were quite chilly.


Since, I am a newbie when it comes to period underwear.  What did 
women do during their monthly cycles?  And why was it more common 
for men to wear underwear and not women?


I betcha I'm going to be quite embarassed by the obvious reasons.  :-)

Roscelin

 Danielle Nunn-Weinberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
 Greetings!
 
 Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. G  Drawers
 arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered
 novelties and foreign.  They weren't adopted as regular wear until
 later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and didn't
 find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of perspective.
 Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, drawers aren't going
 to make much difference except for possibly during activities like
 horseback riding.  However, having seen 16th century sidesaddles
 (rather odd looking contraptions - one was round and perfectly flat
 with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) even then the drawers
 would be rather immaterial.
 
 Cheers,
 Danielle
 
 At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
 Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that 
ladies didn't  wear

 drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I
 usually do English.
 
 And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN 
to England.  It

 gets COLD there.
 
 Thanks for your forbearance,
 Tea Rose


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Re: [h-cost] Another period program on tv

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

At 07:25 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:

Costume related viewing,

Anyone catch the Madness of Henry VIII?
The title seemed dubious, but I thought I would check it out anyway. (It
just started on the National Geographic channel for those interested)
So far it appears to be a standard documentary, with just a sensational
title.  In the short bit I have seen, costumes superficially seem okay.  And
the history is correct so far (although we are still on Catherine).
Its not my focus period and I haven't seen much yet.  I'll have to keep
watching to see how the program turns out.

Kaitlin


OPINION ALERT!
Well, I watched it tonight - I thought the women's costuming was 10x 
worse than the men's (as usual) with rather odd headdresses in 
particular.  In my opinion it greatly resembled the 19th century view 
of the 16th century - it was to Henry and his wives what many in the 
19th century thought of poor Mary Queen of Scots and the evil 
Queen Elizabeth - their ideas (not mine).  I found it to be 
rather tabloid feeling in its approach to the entire thing, and while 
strictly correct in facts, attributed a lot of emotions that I think 
they would be hard pressed to document.  Catherine of Aragon came 
across as the wronged noble, almost saintly queen, and they stated 
outright that Henry went mad as he got older!  Anyway, it was an 
interesting counterpoint to Starkey's account and worth watching once.


Cheers,
Danielle 


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings!

Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. G  Drawers 
arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered 
novelties and foreign.  They weren't adopted as regular wear until 
later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and 
didn't find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of 
perspective.  Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, 
drawers aren't going to make much difference except for possibly 
during activities like horseback riding.  However, having seen 16th 
century sidesaddles (rather odd looking contraptions - one was round 
and perfectly flat with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) 
even then the drawers would be rather immaterial.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:

Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear
drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I
usually do English.

And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It
gets COLD there.

Thanks for your forbearance,
Tea Rose


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Re: [h-cost] hatmaking

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

From the Neck Up is the obvious one but the millinery school I took 
a course from has some books for sale that are worth checking out:
http://www.how2hats.com/booklist.html  I found it very easy but made 
much more sense once someone showed me how to do things rather than 
trying to read about it.  Best of luck, I love millinery, it is a 
blast and completely addictive!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 08:06 PM 1/3/2006, you wrote:

Those of you who make hats...

Would you suggest a good book or two? I'm totally intimidated by the 
process but eager to try it if I can get good instructions. I've 
seen one book that makes it look easy, but then if it was easy 
everyone would be doing it, so I have to wonder.


Dawn


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[h-cost] getting oil stains out of fabric

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

I know this has been discussed ad nauseam in the past but the changed 
archives don't seem to give me what I need.  Does anyone have a 
record of these threads or a good tip that they can email me off list 
since I had an encounter with an exploding bottle of salad dressing 
(wearing new clothes, naturally), and I need to deal with a large 
blob of olive oil right in the middle of the top...


Cheers,
Danielle

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Re: [h-cost] What periods for these fabrics?

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

At 01:10 AM 12/2/2005, you wrote:


In going through my fabric stash, I find I have a number of things I've
bought over the years that I no longer consider suitable for medieval
clothing. They're good fabrics, and I am wondering what they might be
useful for (other than modern clothing or home decor). I know almost
nothing about periods after 15th c.

What periods, if any, would these be suitable for:


snip


-- glazed cotton (apricot, blue)


snip


--Robin


I was thinking this would be great for 18th century.  I believe in 
the discussion of quilted petticoats when I was looking for sources 
for glazed wool someone suggest glazed cotton instead.  Certainly the 
colours would be suitable.


Cheers,
Danielle 


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Re: [h-cost] New Medieval Gallery at the Museum of London

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hello,

The last time I was at the MoL, you are not allowed to take photos 
unless you have express permission from the curatorial staff and have 
signed the appropriate waivers.  This is a fairly new policy that had 
been instituted while they were doing all that work in the museum a 
year or two ago.  One of the curators told me their main reason was 
to gain copyright control over the spread of the images and the 
quality of the images being passed around.  Too many people were 
taking pictures on their trips there and slapping them on their 
websites, or even publishing them, without consulting the museum so 
to put a stop to this, they stopped allowing general photography.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 08:02 AM 11/22/2005, you wrote:

At 13:50 22/11/2005, you wrote:
Do you have an approximate date for the stocking?  and if pre-1600, 
can I beg photos?


Please?

pretty please!

alex

Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Oh, and the best thing was a black silk knitted stocking foot,
probably Italian.


As the last date in the gallery is 1558, I guess it must be early to 
mid 1500's - I can take the date off the label next time I go, and 
will try to take photos if allowed - should not be a problem as far as I know.


Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

There are a number of very clear references to knitted items in the 
Henry VIII inventories, many of them are much earlier than you 
think.  There are plenty of references in other sources as 
well.  Including one I have found which has King Henry ordering 
twelve pairs of knytt hosen for his sister-in-law sister the 
Princess of Castile, in May of 1510.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:23 PM 11/22/2005, you wrote:
I would *love* to know what the dates and assumed origins are (if 
any) for the knit garments.  So far, the earliest I've heard 
verified made in England (other than Monmouth caps which are 
coarse-knit then felted/fulled) has been in the 1550s.


(I'm guessing that they're the youngest of the items in the display, 
but... :-)


-Liz


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[h-cost] OT early medieval copper jewelry on ebay

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

Please forgive another commercial posting here...  I've just posted 
an early medieval copper parure on ebay which would probably be 
perfect for Viking or Saxon, although I do admit that, that time 
period is greatly outside my expertise:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=5048451007rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AITrd=1

Cheers,
Danielle

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[h-cost] OT - I've listed costume book videos on ebay

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Greetings,

I've just listed a Aileen Ribeirl's The Gallery of Fashion Book on 
ebay.  It is a new copy, still in the original plastic I had 
accidentally received two copies of it.  I have also listed some 
costume movies (VHS) and will be listing more things soon.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=6573892808rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AITrd=1

Cheers,
Danielle

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Re: [h-cost] making a fan

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

Hi,

I did a quick search on fan sticks and came up with:
http://lace.lacefairy.com/Fans/Fansticks.html

It has a section:
Sources of Fansticks
Springetts - mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]
Ann Keller- http://www.annkeller.com/http://www.annkeller.com/
Malcolm Cox-FANSTICKS - 
http://www.connect.ie/users/mcox/http://www.connect.ie/users/mcox/

Aebi's Woodworking (Lafayette IN) mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]

I've searched for them myself in the past and only found them in 
connection with lace making.  Good luck.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 01:48 PM 9/19/2005, you wrote:
I want to try making a fan (18th-19th century style as opposed to 
renaissance style) but I don't know where to get the base. I'm not 
even sure what to call it, but the individual sticks are called 
ribs, I think. I tried googling fan base fan ribs fan set and a 
couple of other combinations without any luck.


Can anyone help me with what the proper term is for this item? And 
if anyone can point me towards websites that might carry this, I'd 
be very grateful.


Thanks,
Julie

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Re: [h-cost] Celebration!

[Danielle Nunn-Weinberg]

A yellowish grey IIRC.  Or maybe a greenish-grey.   I was always told to 
think of what a Spaniard would look like washed up on the shore after a 
shipwreck...


Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:01 AM 8/18/2005 +1000, you wrote:

So, what colour IS a dead Spaniard?

-C.


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