Tamara wrote:
When I first started to teach myself, the book I used didn't mention leash
length.
Another thing that I've only found mentioned in one book is the length to
darn in to hide ends when finishing a piece of work. Having darned many
socks, I'd assumed that it would be about an
At 03:00 AM 26/04/2009, Jean Nathan wrote:
I have been watching video footage of bobbin lace being made and noticed the
very short amount of thread between last worked pin and the top of the bobbin
and wondered what most of you all do.
For me, it all depends on a number of things: such as -
Possibly the length of the leash is also reflected in the way each of us
handles
the bobbins - we develop our own 'style'.
Beginners to lacemaking tend to be trying to watch the lace, threads and
hands, as confidence grows the hands take on a way of working by
themselves - like autopilot ;o).
Now you have gone completely the opposite way, thats amazing the lengths,
but does make sense as I have seen photos of your lace desk. I must say
that the more bobbins I have on my pillow the longer my threads seem to need
to be in order to get them out of the working centre area without
I cant say I do an awful lot of darning ends in and when I do I am not
terribly good at it, always a little dissappointed with the end result,
feeling it looks more untidy than the knots I dont like either. (the only
bit of lacemaking which I find unsatisfactory).
Sue T
- Original
I have a quick question:
I am thinking of doing some Chantilly. In the book I have, they used
250 unboiled silk for the ground and 2 threads of 120 boiled silk for
the gimp. I think their gimp looks a little bit too thin but I also
don't know what the size comparison is between these two
Here is a quick answer, I recall 6 threads of the main thread for the gimp
size, and I *think* that was for Chantilly. I have made a few samples, and
did work some Swiss point ground where the gimp thread was very much larger
than the main thread. For that I used Bodil Leif's thinnest silk with a
When all else fails I shamelessly use glue :D
On Sun, Apr 26, 2009 at 8:28 AM, Sue hurwitz...@supanet.com wrote:
I cant say I do an awful lot of darning ends in and when I do I am not
terribly good at it, always a little dissappointed with the end result,
feeling it looks more untidy than the
Yes it was quite common for several strands of the ground thread to be
wound together for gimps.
I work on the principal of at least four, preferably six, times the
thickness of the ground threads for the gimps (in point ground or
torchon). It was Doreen Wright who told me that many years
On 26 Apr 2009, at 17:59, bev walker wrote:
I think if one is going to add in and take out pairs along the gimp
line the
multi-strands are preferable?
Yes.
A quick look in Threads for Lace, Lia's 250 silk is a 60 wrap, vs. the
Treenway 120/2 of 39 though the former is a 3-ply, if that helps
Hello Bev and all,
What kind of glue do you use? I assume it is a fabric glue of some kind.
I love the idea, as I hate the darning in of ends.
Agnes Boddington - elloughton UK
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I just use an UHU-stic (the ad says non toxic - washable - acid free). It
is meant for paper, but works fine on thread. If the area needing gluing is
small, I use a toothpick to scrape a bit of glue from the stick to dab on to
the thread. Using glue is a quick fix and suits my little lace efforts
Diana Smith wrote:
I tend to 'throw' my bobbins so need a longer leash or the
movement is restricted.
I've caught myself doing that recently. As I've only been making lace
for less than 6 months, I did wonder if it was a bad habit to get into.
Perhaps it's not, afterall.
Lesley
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To
When all else fails I shamelessly use glue :D
Or you could do what I do--not finish anything! Then I don't have to worry
about darning neatly, about knots coming apart, about glue discoloring, etc.
VBG
Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com
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