Nov. 14 Correction - for improved readability of Nov. 13 book review. "White-embroidered costume accessories - the 1790s to 1840s". By Heather Toomer, drawings and patterns by Elspeth Reed. Published by Heather Toomer Antique Lace, 2013, paper cover. 198 pages, cover price £ 19.75, ISBN 978-0-9542730-3-3. Ordering info in separate memo. Book has limited distribution.
To put this book in context, Jane Austen (author) lived from 1775-1817. Princess Victoria was born in 1819 and became Queen in 1837. Both had associations with lace. This is a sequel to "Embroidered with white - the 18th century fashion for Dresden lace and other whiteworked accessories", 2008 (Arachne review Aug. 27, 2009). As before, this is original research resulting in detailed text. Drawings and patterns by Elspeth Reed are admirable. Heather's photographs are presented for each item discussed. Color fashion prints are lovely, and they prove depicting fashions on very slender mannequins is not a new phenomenon! Collectors will find identification of unusually-shaped accessories invaluable. Costumers receive guidance for making accurate recreations. Historians acquire expanded knowledge. Then, there are the lovers of all things LACE. They may require more detailed information about lace made during this period for this purpose, and may need to see exactly how the laces were attached to accessories. Both right and wrong sides of white embroidery are sometimes shown, which helps determine how a stitch was made. Embroidery and lace travel together through the pages. Austen could identify a buffon, pelerine, canezou, schall, or pelisse. Can you? Have you seen a shirt handkerchief? These "handkerchiefs" had quite a different purpose and shape than pocket handkerchiefs; dress kerchiefs had a different purpose and shape than today's head coverings. The distinctions are interesting. Have you ever seen a muslin accessory with a button-holed edge to which a bobbin-made picot edging has been attached? Effective. Delicate. Several are shown in photographs. Much is to be said for design inspiration. The little fancy apron pockets on page 60 reminded this reviewer of patterns of cuffs, and some collars, illustrated by Elspeth Reed. Then came the thought that this would be an interesting subject for a Lace Guild contest - pockets inspired by historic cuff and collar shapes! Many designs are suitable for lace or muslin embroidery (or both) on today's special occasion accessories. For more information about muslin, see reviewer's Jan. 19, 2013 review of "Muslin" at http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html Purchasing information for Heather Toomer's self-published limited-distribution book is in a separate memo mailed Nov. 13, 2013. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
