I dismantled the dead etek, which isn't too hard, but it does help if you
have a press.
It had totally shed about a dozen connections and some of these had gone
AWOL on the trip home. I've made new ones and re-soldered nearly all the
connections, but I have to fix my 1960's 'instant heat'
I dismantled the dead etek, which isn't too hard, but it does help
if you have a press.
It had totally shed about a dozen connections and some of these had
gone AWOL on the trip home. I've made new ones and re-soldered
nearly all the connections, but I have to fix my 1960's 'instant
heat'
Wow. Mike when you kill 'em, you kill 'em dead as a hammer.
One of the things on my list to do after this course on Electric Machines is
over (next week is finals) is look over the Etek and analyse it more before
employing it. A PM motor is considered a special case of a separately
excited
Wow. Mike when you kill 'em, you kill 'em dead as a hammer.
I remember my first year in college. I had an instructor who told
me, If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. He never did
anything half way. He's my hero to this day. Ha ha.
separately excited motor (no field to excite).
I've got no ideas about your DC to DC, but this is why I always recommend
the 6.7 inch series wound motors over Eteks. It's not that they can't do
the job, but they are too easy to fry. Too many amps either undoes all the
solder or demagnatizes the magnets. Yes they are small, and yes they
Did you mean 160F or C? I have read the latest temps after pushing the PMG
pretty heavily (200 down to 100 amps for some 20 seconds or so) and read 212F.
I think the temp sensor is a good idea, have one of the mini-eight fan
assemblies on the way. Found this pie-plate-looking thing at home
