"Over all the mountain peaks there is quiet."

Von Goethe

 
Jackson, Wyoming to Montpelier, Idaho
 
117 miles. 3910 feet climbing.
 
Reporting on how cold the mornings are is getting kind of repetitious, but this 
morning we started out in 34 degrees Fahrenheit. The valley around Jackson was 
shrouded in fog. The fog and cold had ice forming on my glasses as we rode out of 
town. We took a bike trail for about the first five miles south. It twisted and turned 
and dipped through the fog alongside the main highway. It was strange; very quiet, 
very fast and very eerie. Back on the main road we followed the Snake River through an 
interesting canyon. It was narrow and picturesque, with mixed evergreen/deciduous 
forest (with the deciduous trees already turning colour), good road quality, and 
gentle grades. 
 
I rode with my usual four companions. In fact, we're comfortable enough with each 
other such that when other riders hooked on to our small group (or looked like they 
would) we would stop, or speed up, or some other maneuver to maintain the group at 
five. The first sag wasn't until 36 miles, as we left the Snake River Canyon and the 
fog behind. The sun made an appearance, but it still wasn't warm and I kept my tights, 
gloves and jacket on. The valley opened up, becoming again broad, flat and dry. It's 
mostly cattle country. Some irrigation provides some green. We passed through Afton, 
where there's the world's largest elkhorn arch over the main street. After all, where 
else but America would someone build an elkhorn arch. I have the pictures to prove it. 
 
Speaking of dead elk, it seems everyone here hunts. Men walk around in camouflage 
gear. There are more gun shops than convenience stores. In downtown Jackson, even the 
pharmacy has big game heads on the wall. 
 
Finally the gentle grades gave way to something more serious, a 1000 foot climb to the 
Salt River Pass at 7600 feet elevation. We had lunch on top of the pass (once we 
started breathing normally again), with gorgeous scenery, but with a black cloud 
sitting overhead. But our group missed the rain. Someone behind us reported getting 
hailed on. The descent on the other side was disappointing because a wind was howling 
up the pass. We'd been promised a south-west wind for the day but this was its first 
significant appearance. Whoever was leading had to push hard even though it was a 7% 
down grade. Then across another dry valley and back into Idaho, and then back up 
another 1000 feet over the Geneva Summit at 6900 feet. And finally another wind 
abetted descent into Montpelier and the finish.
 
While patronizing a local laundromat we asked a local for the recommended eating 
spots. It seemed there was only one: Butch Cassidy's. Butch and Sundance evidently 
robbed a bank here and escaped up the pass we'd just come down. There was a plaque 
(and a restaurant) commemorating the event. Making heroes out of villains. We ate 
there anyway.
 
Don Friedlander 

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