To look at this from a lateral point of view:
OK moving something left/right to mean up/down may not be intuitive, but
the item which is moves is a circular dial so if you move a different
section of the dial (eg the right hand side) it goes up and down which
would be more intuitive.
OK so it
I don't know if he reads our list, but he has been visiting the PUG. I got an email
from him a couple of days ago complimenting one of my images. I'll bet someone at
Grandfather Mountain (Doug?) mentioned the PUG to him.
Definitely a boost for the confidence!!
Bill Sawyer
[EMAIL
Hi Chuck,
I use a 6x7 with a 105 and 45. Seems I use it much more than my 35mm
gear once I got addicted to those big negatives.
Norm
Chuck Riccardo wrote:
My name is Chuck Riccardo - As I am nearing retirement age, I thought
I would get into medium format cameras and travel a bit with them.
Mattias again have the front page of National
Geographic - the June issue. I don't know whether this is shot with Pentax or
Nikon.
Pål
- Original Message -
From:
Bob Keefer
To: pentax
discuss
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 5:33
AM
Subject: Mattias Klum Pentax
Does your FA* 200/4 Macro give a whining sound when manual focusing? Mine does and
have also lately developed resonating sounds and vibrations while focusing manually. I
ask just to figure out whats considered normal on this lens and whether I should get
it lubricated.
Pål
- Original
I happen to like the over and under scale. It works for me better than my PZ-1.
Darryl
Doug Brewer wrote:
But what of the orientation of the over/under scale?
Seriously, like I've been saying all along, the camera simply has to be held in the
hands.
Congrats,
Doug
At 10:03 AM
You bet.Th first camera I bought in 1971,my SP 500 using a Super Tak
105
Thanks Frank
Dave
Begin Original Message
From: Frank Theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 09:20:21 -0400
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Att:Canadians Part Deux
Hey, blow your own horn,
I think the mag is available in the states but limited areas
Dave
Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
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Hi, gang
Playing around my LX bodies I discovered them were put in different diopter
positions. The one with FA 1 was at -1.5 and the one with FA 1W was about -1.
Since I have almost perfect condition eyesight I wonder what could be the
normal diopter position for normal (I don't need to use
Chuck Riccardo wrote:
My
name is Chuck Riccardo - As I am nearing retirement age, I thought I would
get into medium format cameras and travel a bit with them. I would love
to hear from some of you that use this format, but all I seem to see on
this newsgroup are things called MZ and the like,
On Mon, 11 Jun 2001 11:08:24 +0100, Rob Brigham wrote:
To look at this from a lateral point of view:
OK moving something left/right to mean up/down may not be intuitive, but
the item which is moves is a circular dial so if you move a different
section of the dial (eg the right hand side) it
Hi,
Just got back from a two week trip to Russia - plenty of Pentax
experiences.
Like dropping a Z-70, Z1-p and LX into the river Serga, with
numerous lenses, flashes and other bits and bobs.
Results: Z-70 dead (even when you've dried a camera off and left
it airing for two days, DON'T lift
I have took a nice night pic at night in auto that lasted about half an hour to
40 minutes. I will post it to next pug.
And I also started another one that I aborted about at 1 hour exposure when I
realized the exp comp dial was set at 2x.
Film was Supra 100 and lens was A 28 2.8
Regards
Albano
Hi, Albano.
A normal position is what works best for you, if you ask me...
At your age, the lens in your eyes is soft and strechable, so the focussing
muscles around it have no problems to adapt it to whatever the viewfinder
optics within the limits you mention. If you had put on some spectacles
I can't see how anyone would have any problem with the MZ-s controls after a
few minutes of thought and use. It's no different than using a shutter
speed dial on the ZX-5n, ZX-m, or any other camera with shutter speeds
selected by a dial. Maybe it would be easier if you think of turning the
Your eye can focus on the focus screen at different settings by making
adjustments. Set the diopter at the extremes of it's range, and you'll
find that it's a lot of work for your eyes to obtain focus. The idea is to
set the diopter where your eye does the least amount of work, so you'll be
I can't the issue. You have a meter up for overexposure, down for under exposure. If the user truns the dial and the point goes the wrong way siimply turn the dial the other way. The human brain is quite good at adapting to this sort of thing. A bit like when you're going to lose your balance you
Hola Flavio
Me alegrè mucho al saber que Valerio ya està bien y en
casa. ¡Felicidades!
Luis
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This message is from the
New York Geometry by Paul Stenquist, USA:
I like this. The composition is balanced and the lines
enhance it. The extension is eerie, and the
reflection makes it look as if adhered to the glass
with some adhesive. The lighting is flat and the sky
bleak, but I assume that was what you were
Are you guys testing with film in the camera? The differences I'm
seeing (the shutter only opened for two minutes with the body cap on
vs. I made a 45 minute exposure at night) seem to be explainable that
way. Personally, I've made fifteen minute exposures at ISO 1600 with my
LX (3200 ISO
So, you wanna bring it to Oakville, right, and let me play with it, right?
-Aaron
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Pål Jensen wrote:
Mattias again have the front page of National Geographic -
the June issue. I don't know whether this is shot with
Pentax or Nikon.
Pål
[SNIP]
Do you know the subject of his reportage ?
If it is about lions in Asia / India I think he shot this
with Pentax-equipment.
Are you guys testing with film in the camera? The differences I'm
seeing (the shutter only opened for two minutes with the body cap on
vs. I made a 45 minute exposure at night) seem to be explainable that
way. Personally, I've made fifteen minute exposures at ISO 1600 with my
LX (3200
Rob Studdert wrote:
Hi Team,
I am interested in looking at some photo oriented back-packs to use for both
short or extended treks into bush. I need it to be weather proof and have
provisions for easily attaching a tripod.
I've got a MiniTrekker from LowePro, which keeps the rain out
I've got a p67 as well, which I adore.
-Aaron
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David J Brooks wrote:
(Its me).
Congrats!
-Aaron
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I think the issue is using it quickly, and under pressure. I know for sure that the
focussing direction of the Tamron SP90/2.5 really confused me when I tried to use it
under pressure. I knew full well I should focus it the other way round - but it just
doesn't work like that when you need
Pål,
To do a quick check if its mechanical or dirt, let 1 drop (indirectly
applied) of WD40 creep behind the aperture ring.
If that loosens it up after some movement, its dirt.
The effect is temporary, (weeks ?) so a more definite cleaning is required.
George
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This message is from the
Michel Adam wrote:
Should not make any difference. In total darkness, the reflectivity of the
pressure plate vs the film should be the same (zilch).
True...so maybe we're seeing the difference between total darkness and mostly-darkness?
Maybe the camera's smart enough to give up after a
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: MZ-S in Europe (Czechia) (was: MZ-S is comming to Poland)
For the PDML members from Europe's central and eastern parts:
I just got this note from local Pentax distributor rep, that they will be
selling MZ-S in second half June
Thanks for your kind comment, Cesar!
Luis
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Patrick,
I
receive this as HTML. Since I don't have Lotus Notes 5.0.5, I can't help you out
in suggesting what to change to the settings.
Frits
-Original Message-From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of Patrick GenoveseSent: 11 June 2001
08:52To:
Thanks for your kind comment, Collin.
I think you're right about the fill flash - but I
didn't even think of it at the moment. For me, the
default mode is 'no flash'... :)
Luis
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With age, the lens get stiffer and it will cost more to adapt. Headaches
come faster, and the benefit of adjustable dioptrics in the viewfinder
become more critical.
Jostein (who have to use glasses for reading, now...)
I sympathize with you. Not that my eyes are getting like that, only my
Hi Mike,
glad to hear the MX is ok. I hope it goes on to have a long and
glorious career in the ample bosom of Mother Russia :o)
You didn't tell us the outcome on the LX of the dunking. Perhaps it
goes without saying that it survived.
I like the sound of your experiences with Pentar. It
Follow this link,
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0106/feature3/index.html
and clic on the photos on the left.
They were taken with a Pentax camera, and long lenses (400 and 600 mm.,
80-200 2.8, ...), but he doesn't especify which Pentax camera he used.
Just checked the BH web site. The MZ-S is listed as In Stock.
Unfortunately, it's still listed at $999.95! :-
Will wait until it comes more in line with other volume dealers!
Alexander Grigolia
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Francis wrote:
I think the issue is using it quickly, and under pressure. I know for sure that the
focussing direction of the Tamron SP90/2.5 really confused me when I tried to use it
under pressure. I knew full well I should focus it the other way round - but it just
doesn't work like
Doug, I've just gotten a 100 mm. macro myself, and am playing off depth
of field (f-stops 16-32) vs. sharpness (f-stops around 5.6-11). This
photo looks like it has a lot of depth of field for a 200 mm. macro.
What f-stop did you use?
I keep reading that macro lenses are designed to be sharpest
There is a release on the BG-10 grip/battery pack, Jim. It rocks.
Doug
At 6:00 PM -07006/11/01, Jim Apilado brandished a favorite crayon and scribbled:
Citizens Photo here in Portland, Oregon finally got their new Pentax. The
clerk showed it to me and let me handle it. He tried to decipher
This month I think I'll do my assigned critiques one at a time, and I'm
starting this month with Eduardo Corone Costa Junior, Orange Dome.
I like this one a lot. What initially attracted me was the beautiful
symmetry, and the muted, yet lovely colours. And that was before I
figured out exactly
My second PUG assignment this month is Dan Matyola, Russian Churches:
Each image in this montage stands alone as a wonderful image. Together,
they tell a story of how important religion was in pre-revolutionary
Russia. That a relatively impoverished country could muster the
resources and
I switched Photo of the Week last nite to a shot of our local
Visual Arts Center - yet another w/ the 20mm f4.5 BowWow Tak
http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb/Commercial/wkly/wklyphoto.html
is the link.
I'm pleased to say I have now managed to repair the Osram BCS 25 Studio
Flash, and the Kitstar 80-210mm Zoom which had muck inside the front
element. Now, all that remains is the fix the ding on the SMC Tak 1:1.8/55
focus ring, as the middle element(removed the rear assembly) has some sort
of
Usually, a good macro lens will be at its sharpest 2 or 3 stops down from
wide open. At that point, it is almost diffraction limited. There will be
some resolution loss as the lens is stopped down. However, as on some
lenses, the resolution should not drop off like a home sick rock.
Bob Rapp
Hi All,
Sorry to have disappeared for so long. Been Very busy, trying to make a career out of
fine art
photography.
On Fritz Wuthrich's Old and New:
I think my first impression is why fisheye? The architectural details in the truss
system, the
multilevel walkways are interesting enough,
Try it with all the room lights out.
Regards,Bob...---"In the
carboniferous epochwe were promised perpetual peace.They swore if we
gave up our weaponsthat the wars of the tribes would cease.But when we
disarmed they sold us,and delivered us, bound, to our foe.And
The camera snaps when a combination of sensor noise and light leak reaches exposure
threshold. If your time varies depending on the amount of ambient light (out in the
room
or in a changing bag), then the major factor was light leak, if not then it's sensor
noise. Since the electronics is acting
I just tried pointing the camera out a dark window into the
night (such as it is here in the city) - ISO 400 film loaded. the
exposure times seem to correlate with what I got with the camera empty
and no light coming in - at ISO 400 with an A 28-135 lens at f22 the
shutter would trip after about
Joe,
I probably shot that at f/11 or f/16. Turns out it was not shot with the MZ-S, but
rather my LX, as I pried the slide mount open to get a peek at the imprinted info, so
the subject line is a mistake. I could have sworn I shot it with the MZ-S. hmmm.
Anyway...
The FA100/2.8 Macro is a
Frank,
Thank you for your kind words!
As I already mentioned, I'm not satisfied with that image. I think its a
nice subject, but I could have done better. I'll try again sometime next
month and see if I can improve it.
I found out that framing such a subject without an angle finder is no easy
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yes, Mark. Sorry, I should have said 645.
I've handled the Contax 645. It autofocus fairly well but honestly isn't up
to the standards of today's AF 35mm cameras. It's not bad though plus, it's
quiet. I guess it kinda depends on your needs. WARNING: AF in the Contax 645
Mark D. wrote:
I don't have any feedback about the other cameras. Perhaps people who own
the Pentax 645n will, erhhm, share their opinions g...
There's not a big difference between the 645n and ZX-5n. Then again, I
usually focus manually.
Part of it depends on which lens you're using. With
Hi all:
Well, I'm back, at least temporarily.
I've spent the better part of two months either hunched over the matt cutting machine,
the enlarger,
or the trays of ferricyanide, selenium, sulphites and bromides; I've built frames and
bought them.
I've shaken the hands of more strangers in
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